DIY stuff November 27, 2010, 12:18:30 PM UPDATED 31dec2016if any questions call 304 772 3411Treasure box of factory Brochures~american cars - thanks softtouch~~!http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?35821-Factory-Brochures-American-Cars__________________________________________________Various forum topics i feel are important and useful for troubleshooting or parts locatingfuel pump255 lph Ford Focus SVT pump is what you need and it drops right in.https://k-mansparts.com/ford-mustang-focus-255-lph-returnless-fuel-pump-m-pfs-204-detail.htmVarious Mods by Tom Renzo..... THE RENZO FILESaffordable *****WAY BETTER THAN stock bolt on brake parts replacement - thanks V8DemonGet a set of 11 inch spindles, followed by this.....thread is here>http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?38735-bleeding-the-master-cylinderhttp://ssbrakes.com/i-10092994-disc-...1in-rotor.html I have that very kit on my front end minus the master cylinder. It uses the 73 mm calipers as opposed to the fox Mustang's 60's. I have 10 inch drums out back. Personally I'd use a master that has a reservoir and low fluid switch. You could always call SSBC and see what they would sell the kit without the master for.... Brake booster replacement stuff - thanks KitzKat & V8Demonkitzkat=It sounds like your current master cylinder is a bit wore out If you plan to swap it out I would also consider swapping in a 93 cobra brake booster, it will give you that extra braking power you need v8demon=Agreed. You can pick one up for about $100 from most places. You will need a 2 port to 3 port line addapter setup. I know you're quite resourceful and could most likely make your own if needed. MM sells a setup as well. http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Ma...tang-P673.aspx Cardone apparently carries a remanufactured version, however you would need to supply the reservoir. The reservoir carries a different part #, but I THINK you can use one from a standard fox Cougar/T-bird/Stang.http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/c...3-P#fragment-2 Dorman makes one as well. I believe it's new. It DOES come with the MC. Part # M390125 Best price I can find is Summit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dhb-m390125 $60 isn't bad at all. Brake line mod !~ a must do for corrosion control and long lifehttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?37940-Brake-mods&highlight=2.3L build and all kinds of neat little trickshttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?37811-Building-bruiserExplorer code 13 solved, with a surprising but simple ending.... your average Mech would never find this problem.http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?37675-Fuse-13-Mistery-solved&highlight=The throttle body with a riveting outcome!http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?37583-Strange-trouble!!!!&highlight=++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++Stuff I have linkedRe-Chrome plasic stuff with these guys - thanks Vinnie!!!http://www.chrometechusa.com/index.htmlThe amazing Spark plug wire thread, forever change your perspective on plug wire quality ~thanks Seek!http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?38125-Time-for-some-new-ignition-wiresGT40 or otherwise good headers ~thanks thunderjet302You need these:https://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=3616Ran them with GT40P heads and I'm still running them with the Edelbrock heads I have now. Nice quality and won't rot out like other headers. Ignition module relocationhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?37976-TFI-(ignition)-Module-relocation-JCassity-renditionspeedo speed sensor drive gear calculator ~ thanks aerocoupe~http://www.sccoa.com/faq/speedgr.htmlhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?37648-Speedo-gear-for-AOD-after-changing-to-3-73-1-rear-gear/page2Moon Roof information, pages from shop manual , all you need to know , thread about doing a new seal. ~ by ChristmasGT, Jcassity & StenholmEngineeringhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?37011-HOW-TO-Replace-Moon-Roof-Weather-Stripping&p=430314&posted=1#post430314Restoration parts for your bird / coug and remember to use the stang as your base search for harder parts to findhttp://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-23504A/83-93-Mustang-Lower-Door-Hinge-Tension-Spring?utm_source=google-shopping&utm_medium=comparison-shopping&utm_campaign=google-shopping-v2&year=1983&gclid=CLHikJOVubwCFZPm7AodDWIAWQSunroof / moon roof seal replacement diy with pictures and gasket resource ~ thanks christmasGT!the instructions:http://imgur.com/a/W6lsM#0The seal / gaset resourcehttp://www.sunroofdoctor.com/8788thunderbird.htmEEC computer resourceshttp://www.oldfuelinjection.com/?p=3http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?35014-5-0-ho-ecu-computer-for-sale!!Control Arm Bushing relacementthis includes a home made spring compressor that worked really greathttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?16294-popping-and-squeek-quot-SOLVED-quot/page2Control arm bushing part numbers for replacements from Napa with inner & outter diametershttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?16294-popping-and-squeek-quot-SOLVED-quot/page5Fog Lamps83-86 fox came with marchall lamps87-88 fox came with Hellalink to parent company that makes the Hella fog lamps still available today~still priceyhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?35491-Marchal-Prices&highlight=hellaMass Air Meter compatability with other existnig vehicles to your fox ~thanks thunderjet302~!!!!http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?32890-Explorer-MAFthunderjet302~~Besides the stock Mustang 55mm units the following 70mm units will work with an A9P. Before I got my 73mm C&L MAF and 24lb injectors I used a 70mm MAF from a 1994 Lincoln Town Car. You need the MAF sensor from one of the Following Ford vehicles:List of EEC-IV Processors for MAF Conversionhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?38369-List-of-EEC-IV-Processors-for-MAF-Conversion1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A, 1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A, 1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A1985 5.0 CFI info ~ thanks Softtouch!http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?36574-High-idle/page2seat cover and removal of covers shop manual pageshttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?35936-shop-manual-technical-seat-informationInstrument Cluster, do your buttstuffog guages Lie? Integrated Voltage Regulatorwith buttstuffog guages / idiot lights and electronic speedo or with full buttstuffog clusterhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?34364-88-3.8-TBird-Cooling/page3another IVR threadhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?34290-Need-IVR-help-on-instrument-cluster-**solved**&highlight=ivroil pan drain plug repair ideashttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?35785-oil-pan-plug-repairABS troubleshooting ~ thanks Chuck Warrenhttp://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/TEVES%20II%20ELECTRO-HYDRAULIC%20BRAKING%20SYSTEM%2087-88%20TCs.htm199mph electronic speedo modification- by bondocougarhttp://www.coolcats.net/modifying/199speedo.htmlMileage correction electronic speedo-by bondocougar resources and confirmed by Thefoeyouknowhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?35555-Odometer-CorrectionLift point upgrade, ever had someone lift your car wrong?http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?31788-Lift-here-fool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!&highlight=center of molding mod, repair the gold, red or chrome lookhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?24744-Confirmed-Exterior-molding-center-trim&highlight=Heater core change so its always an easy job **FROM NOW ONhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?34998-AND-NOW!!!!-It-s-a-1hour-or-less-heater-core&daysprune=100Relay adds to remove heat from headlamp and ignition switchhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?35095-Relay-bank-mod-COMPLETE-for-IGN-switch-Headlamp-and-Marker-lampsresults of my headlamp modificationhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?35224-After-my-headlamp-modification&highlight=HIGH BEAM *with * low beams on modification ~just an easy jumper wire. ((applicable to those with auto lamps only))http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?35243-High-beam-with-low-beam-mod-with-an-easy-jumper-wire&p=408054#post408054headlamp rework and remirror the insides, clear coat the outter lensehttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?34549-Re-mirror-headlamp-interior&highlight=Headlamp HID stuff > thanks THEFOEYOUKNOWhttp://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=227http://www.jcwhitney.com/headlight-conversion-kit/c2824j1s17.jcwxHID mod> Thanks TbirdX3http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?33121-%28New-Goodies%29Need-Your-Opinion-on-Headlight-Color!%28Lots-of-Pics%29&highlight=Convert your not so accurate amp meter to a volt meter easilyhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?34359-Ammeter-conversion-to-Voltmeter-R-amp-R-guts&daysprune=100Cool down that big resistor on the back of your buttstuffog instrument cluster.This also applies to those with digital clusters except the resistor is smaller.http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?34327-buttstuffog-cluster-*solve-that-heat-problem*-on-the-big-3-long-reisistor&daysprune=100Pull this thing out and throw it in the garbage (5.0 engines only)http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?35007-PCV-filter-on-the-5.0EEC types and probably the only resource you need to figure out what computer you needhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?35014-5.0-ho-ecu..computer-for-sale!!door armrest repairhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?34857-Armrest-repair&highlight=Window getting off its track? why is this? here is what we foundhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?34261-window-off-the-track-i-think-we-solved-quot-why-quot&highlight=where the water flows, rear wheel well inexpensive mod to prevent rear frame rusthttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?31787-where-the-water-flows-Rear-Fender-Well-Mod&highlight=Leaky trunk? stuff getting wet?http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?34827-Ever-get-water-in-your-trunk-for-no-reason&highlight=door pocket repairhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?34860-Door-pocket-repair&highlight=Need a new electrical connector? http://www.repairconnector.com/Fuel sending unit (buttstuffog and digital cluster)http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?22137-fuel-sending-unitElectronic Climate Control PM – thanks to “tr guy79”http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=26999Casting numbers resource= by TurboCoupe5.0http://www.mustangtek.com/FordDecode.htmlSeat swap infoThe Fox Stang,earlier Escorts,Fox Birds and Cougars....they all bolt in,but the tracks have to come from the Cats and Birds. SN-95 Mustang seats will also bolt to the Tbird/Cougar seat tracks.Vent Visors and Smoke Headlamp covers > thanks 88turbo!!83-86 smoke http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GTS-41327/83-86 clear http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GTS-GT0205C/87-88 smoke http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GTS-GT0219S/also vent visors!!!!http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GTS-41327/Fan Clutch vs Electric fan study> thanks SEEKhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?24589-Electric-fan-FE-findings&highlight=electric%20fanhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=24589&highlight=electric+fanreplacement severe duty fan clutch >>>>> thanks V8DemonWanna upgrade on the cheap without hunting for an SSP? Hayden part #2783 or Imperial part #215130. It's a "severe duty" unit. They're spec'd for a 1991 Dodge Dakota 4WD with the 5.2 V8. Advance auto carries the Imperial brand. Both Imperial and Hayden are the same company. Should run under $60......Low fuel warning layout http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=24065Heater Core coolant RESTRICTOR inside the feed linehttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/...ad.php?t=23455Power Antennahttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/...896#post265896TV Cable adjustment (throttle valve) , aka> kick down cable, transmission kicker cable, passing gear cable ect.Thanks V8Demon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?18128-AOD-popping-out-of-gear/page2&highlight=tv%20cablehttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?11690-Trany-cable-on-TB&highlight=TV%20cableSeat and cover sources from the Ponyhttp://foxtbirdcougarforums.com/show...t=22400&page=3Trunk lid struts < yep you heard me right http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/...ad.php?t=23346Very good VSS (vehicle speed sensor) thread with respect to a HO Mark7 EEChttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/...ad.php?t=23336TFI / stator troubleshootinghttp://351winsor.com/joel/Ignition_Systems/tfi2.htmlspeed sensor gear source (at the transmission tailshaft)http://crt-performance.com/speedometers.htmDoor Lock actuator sourcehttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/...ad.php?t=23024Fuel Injector Indentification post #28http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/...t=22388&page=3headlamp resourcescougs & bird headlamps match up with 89>94 linc continental, per Vinnie- he doesnt see linc headlamps as dull as coug or birdsNEW HEADLAMP Assembly resource (tbird only) _thanks V8Demonhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?p=251896&posted=1#post251896 OEM linc cont equal for This is a Pair of Lincoln Continental 1989-1994 or Mercury Cougar 1987-88 Headlamp housing units. Application: 88-94 Lincoln Continental87-88 Mercury CougarFord Part # E80Y-13007-A and E80Y-13007-BOEM List Price: $190.00 EACHThis is the lens housing only, NO mounting plate or bulb and socket.Other active resources for HEAD LAMPs ~ thanks Kafer 79!!127$http://www.oempartz.com/oem-part/ford/lens-and-housing-left/e7sz-13007-b92$http://www.varsityfordparts.com/OEMParts/ford-123/E/E7SZ13007A.html92$http://www.varsitylincoln-fordparts.com/OEMParts/ford-123/E/E7SZ13007A.html180$http://www.usaspareparts.com/parts/152-ford/1183917/e7sz13007a-e7sz-13007-a.htmlThe RARE 83/84 full electronic instrument cluster by lumpycheesmanhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=21828&highlight=digitalTransmission fluid, what to use?http://www.aa1car.com/library/atf.htmVaccuum diagram on your 5.0 fan shroud (including belt routing alternatives)http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=21824Torque Converter conversation. very informativehttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=20901&page=2BATTERY draining over night (how to find the drain)http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=19254NEED a shop manual? with all the wiring diagrams?http://www.classiquecars.com/thunderbirdmancart.htm (thanks mwitkowski!!!)or one for free... http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=20492WHAT MOTOR OIL ??? for the best amount of ZDDP (zink) to protect your engine and cam.Rotella and Amsoil for the win! THANKS to dw85745, V8 Demon ,Turbo 88 and Amsoil dealer Turbot-birdhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=21617Much information on various EVTM pages / sensors / Vac layout and lots of goodieshttp://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/#Diagrams THANKS 88 Blackbird 5.0!!!http://www.vintagebronco.com/newberry/pages/tech/efi/efi.htmllots of actual wire harness info including mustangs, bronco ect.THANKS BLUE THUNDER!!!!Headlamp lense cleaning (yellow to clear again!!) thanks Cougar5.0!!!!http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00019.html1988-93 Continentals use the same headlamps as 87/88 cougs> thanks watchdevil1988 EVTM by "thefoeyouknow"http://trinom.org/www/foxtbirdcougarforums/1988_Thunderbird_EVTM.exe1987 EVTM (ELECTRICAL VACCUUM TROUBLESHOOTING MANUAL)Full blown manual including front/rear covers and color schematics.http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=20492or..http://s47.photobucket.com/albums/f162/jcassity_bucket/1986 EVTM by "trinom"https://picasaweb.google.com/116504312330534460153/EVTM?authkey=Gv1sRgCMuUiNWbkfzJiQEVarious sensors and understanding how they work (THANKS ISPD!!)http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/Mileage change to zero on buttstuffoge speedo by "masterblaster"http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=4855Fuse panel for the Ford Thunderbird or Mercury Cougar 1983-1987http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?p=228182&posted=1#post228182Smog Bypass 5.0L "SHORT BELT"http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=1723677’’ belt install on stock 5.0 with smog bypasshttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=26714Power Door Lockshttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=19141Great resource for headlamps and lense body parts (thanks JermemyB and V8demon)http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=16364http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=18464EATC wiring diagrams along with code 88 and 02http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?p=205277&posted=1#post205277Duraspark wiring infohttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=17135Base dash cluster with digi speedo and Full digi cluster wiring http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=17053EEC wiring 5.0L SEFIhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=15656&page=3Blower motor relay modification to take heat off the selector switch and the speed control switch.*be sure to read post 24 about our factory switches ~thanks tom renzon~!!http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?34264-Protecting-your-blower-motor-switch-%28non-EATC%29/page4&highlight=manual%2C+heaterBlower motor troubleshooting Blower has HIGH speed only and wiring diagramhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?p=220320#post220320Blower motor troubleshooting and wiring diagramhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=17041Various rear end info,, thanks Jim Miller , JeromeyB and ChuckWhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=13253&page=3Engine Codes, pulling codes and how to do it.http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.htmlRadio ect wiring diagramshttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?p=181940#post181940Cruise Control troubleshooting (my personal experience)http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=17452Cruise Control Problemshttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=14879&highlight=cruise+controlGuages / indicators fuel pump , temp, oil, low fuel , brakehttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?p=179608&posted=1#post179608Power Seatshttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=162133g alternator upgrade 3.8, 5.0, 2.3http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=13641please read this if you own a 2.3 and consider a 3g swap "death of a tbirdhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=15802&highlight=3gAuto Lamp infohttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=15760Rear end 7.5 and 8.8 change out (this thread covers it all!!!)http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=36642.3 Turbo Starting circuithttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=163405.0 Starting circuithttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=11603Power seatshttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=16213Electric fan with relay and toggle switchhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=15952MasterBlaster’s neat linkhttp://www3.telus.net/neat/EECIV self test connector and infohttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=10835Main light switch infohttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=11401Headlamp wiringhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=11426Wiper systemhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=11615Illuminated Entryhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=11601Multifunction switch continuity testhttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=11644Turn Signal / Hazard lampshttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=11644Power windowshttp://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=11779__________________________________________________ _index............****LOOK FOR TOPIC THEN SCROLL DOWN TO ITEMinteresting quote from Thunderchicken indicating you can never get rid of your car even if you sell it."Fox Birds and Cougars are like herpes. You can never get them totally out of your system. No matter how long you go without showing any symptoms, they will flare up again at some point"-------------------------------------------------------------------What ho EEC options are there by the code on the lable? By -infamouspa Electronic Climate Control PM – thanks to “tr guy79”87-88 bird differences- turbocoupe5.0Ignition switch defectsBALL JOINTS done without a press.. http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?p=252460&posted=1#post2524603g alternator upgrade 3.8/5.0 only.. http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=13641&page=2Is the 5.0 a roller engine or not302 intake differences MUST READ!!fuel sending unit infoBlower Motor HVAC only runs on HIGHKeyless Entry tid bitEATC or ATC codes and troubleshootingWeb based resourcesSqueeks, find em quicklyDiagnostic testing with codes 3 step method with 2 and 3 digit codesdrive shaft compatabilityDistributor check and resetPower Window troubleshootingFuel pump testing (intermittant or no pump sound)Fuel pump, Want an external one?Head gasket tid bitsDoor weather stripinghead gasket repairvalve cover repairCruise control slip ring testInstant test lightInjector balance testIdle control motor (ISC adn idle tracking switch check) 3.8 and some 5.0 enginesfuel pres testEGR/emissions solenoidsEGR test and EVP sensor testECT sensor testsmog pump delete and some other goodiesCoolant Temp sensor (2wire)Trip minder conversionFuel injection configuration Batch vs Bank firetrottle body cleaning (cfi)fuel injector cleaningtiming chain slack measureDash cluster removaltps test throttle position sensorleak down tester speedo mod (beyond 85mph)Digital Speedo TroubleshootingTach/Multi guage diagnosticO2 sensor checkMap sensor check No SparkNo spark, TFI CONN checkCoil Checkstator checkTFI MODULE TESTfuel injector idSpindal wear and tearhead cam piston info (CONVERSATIONS ON COOLCATS.NET MESSAGE BOARD)SEE DETAILED INFO BELOW)Camshaft engineering infoTorque convertersREAR END INFORack/pininon removeal and tid bitsTie rod end inspection and inner tie rod end adjustment (adjustment in the knuckle also)Ball joint replacementTailshaft bushing check and replacement (including the quick replacement By TurboCoupe50 ,this is cool!)Checking the fuel pump relay (in/out of car test)misc speedo gear info309/406/427 tid bitsmisc engine info (various cubic inch blocks and specs)misc casting number infoGT heads,JUST ABOUT EVERY FORD ENGINE LONG BLOCKS WITH CASTING NUMBERS FOR HEADS/BLOCKS/CRANKS ECT._________________________________________________________________________mass air eec identification ~ Thanks Aerocoupe~~~!!!!!!!!!!I am pretty sure this list is complete but if any corrections are needed let me know and I will revise. I scoured several Mustang sites and several tuner sites and finally started seeing enough of the same thing here and there that I feel comfortable with publishing the list. I am not saying it is 100% correct but it is as far as I know.Manual Transmisstion EEC-IV's: A9L - 88-92 5.0 Mustang A9M - 89-93 5.0 Mustang D3D1 - 89-93 5.0 Mustang S0Z - 89-93 5.0 Mustang A3M - 93 5.0 Mustang A3M1 - 93 5.0 Mustang A3M2 - 93 5.0 MustangAutomatic Transmission EEC IV's: A9P - 89-92 5.0 Mustang A9T - 89-93 5.0 Mustang C3W - 93 5.0 Mustang C3W1 - 93 5.0 MustangCalifornia Mustang EEC-IV's: A9S - 88-93 5.0 Mustang 8LF - 88-93 5.0 Mustang 8LD - 88-93 5.0 MustangCobra Mustang EEC-IV: X3Z - 93 5.0 Mustang (24lb injectors with OEM calibrated MAF) With that I would strong caution that the California EEC be not used unless you are going to use an editor as they have some inherent programming in them to deal with CA's emissions laws. The same goes for the Cobra's EEC as it was specifically meant for that car unless you can come up with the matching OEM MAF and 24lb/hr injectors. Under the manual transmission list you will see the A3M family and under the Auto list you will see the C3W family which show 93 only. This is due to them being the replacement EEC offered by the dealerships. So for example, if you would have brought in a 1991 5.0 Mustang with a T-5 and the A9L EEC was fried the Ford dealer would have most likely replaced it with an A3M processor. I did this as I see a few guys going MAF and it seems like everyone thinks that the only processors out there are the A9L and A9P and those that have them want a mint for them. We still should not be paying over $100 for a working unit and yes they can be found for this on the Mustang forums. I typically have much better luck on the "local" Mustang forums than on the "national" ones like the Corral as those get jumped on really fast. Darren ______________________________________________________________________________What ho EEC options are there by the code on the lable? By -infamouspahttp://www.oldfuelinjection.com/?p=3Hmmm..I am positive i bought it from a Fox Body mustang parts dealer..On cool cats main website..Go to ? Um never mind..Here it isEEC-IV 5.0 HO ComputerHere's the brains of it all, literally—the stock Mustang 5.0 computer. You should be able to find one at a salvage yard, swap meet or online for a reasonable price. Beginning in 1987 Ford began using a calibration code on each computer, with the code stamped on the top. For speed density, these are the computers that you can use (all listed for automatic transmissions):■DA1 (1987-88 Mustang)■DB1 (1987-88 Mustang)■DX3 (1987 Mark VII)■VL2 (1987 Mark VII)■DY3 (1988 Mark VII)■D9S (1988 Mark VII)THESE WILL ALL FIT YOUR CARS..Electronic Climate Control PM – thanks to “tr guy79”To fix the lighting.Remove dash fascia (varies by model)Remove 4 screws securing EATC moduleUnplug 3 plugs from back (One is on the side for Rear Defrost)Remove (2) 1/4" bolts from defrost plugRemove (4) Phillips screws from housing. Two in bottom rear, Two in back side of the front lipSlide rear housing off of EATC moduleThis is where things vary... If you'd like, just remove the two bulbs and replace (194 I think)If you dont want to risk breaking the bayonet mount, and/or want to clean it while its out, read on.Remove (5) black Phillips head screws, holding circuit board to the front panelIf you are JUST replacing the bulbs, pull them out and replaceIf you want to clean the buttons, remove the (2) Phillips screws holding the light bar, and then tip the face over and the buttons will fall out.While you have everything apart, if any of your buttons are getting hard work, try gently rubbing an eyeglasses slotted screw driver between the rectangular contacts, and the dimple that they connect with. You want to se any build up off of the dimple and metal contacts without damaging it. I have also used the end of a round tooth pick. You actually have to be pretty darn rough with it to break the metal contacts off of the board.If anyone wants this done, but doesnt want to deal with it, or is worried about breaking something, pull you module, and ship it to me with $20 and return postage... I will fully clean, and replace lighting.(I actually just did that all from memory...)-ShanePS... Make sure you put your rear defrost switch back in the right way, or you will be really confused when you try to use it, and "ON" is towards the bottom (Squiggly arrows point up)____________________________________________________87-88 bird differences- turbocoupe5.0The '87 uses a Ford alt while the '88 uses a Hitachi alt... The 5 speed computers are different, on the factory setup, the '87 only has full boost in 1st & 2nd... The trim pieces on the inside door handle pulls are different, 88's have some plastic chromed trim, the '87 are all interior color... EATC control buttons are labeled slightly differently, but that's all '87 to '88 models... The engine identifier code in the VIN, switched from "W" in '87 to "T" in '88... Lastly the '87s all had metal trim around the back window, early '88s built prior to about about mid Nov '87, have the metal as well...______________________________________________________Ignition switch defectsturbocoupe50Ford stated the problem with the '88-'92 switches was the contacts inside were so closely spaced, the the grease could conduct electricity between the contacts and catch fire(electricity + resistance = heat)... This is why they sometimes burn in the middle of the night, for no apparent reason... The problem started occurring when the switches were only a few years old and the grease had been subject to the switch arcing when turned through its positions... The '87-earlier switches had a larger spacing between contacts that was wide enough to supposedly prevent the "arc across" issue... The newer switches went back to a larger contact spacing...thunderchickenThe new switches are identical to the old ones. The only difference would be the part number stamped on the switch - the original switch would have a part number that starts with "E", while the new one would have a part number that starts with "F".You won't see any exterior signs of problems unless the switch has actually burned (I had one burn a hole right through the side). The problem with the switches is in the contacts (plates) inside the switch. They wear over time and the copper filings that wear off them builds up between the plates, causing shorts. At the same time the wearing plates make poor contact with the slider (the thing that moves when you turn the switch on), and poor contact causes heat.Regardless whether your current switch is an E (old) or F (new), if you're having symptoms of a bad switch, replace it. Don't cheap out with a used one, get a new one. As for what problems to look for when a switch fails, you've already experienced one of the early symptoms. Another common symptom is an engine that starts but the heater, gauges and turn signals don't work. Basically, any time you have multiple systems fail at the same time (such as heater, turn signals and gauges) it's usually the switch.There is nothing you can do to prevent the problem altogether, aside from rewiring the "power distribution" circuits that feed the accessories in the car (which I have done in my car, but it is not a job for a novice). A new switch still has the inherent flaw, but it should still last many years before failing again.================================================BALL JOINTS done without a press http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/...d=1#post252460Remove Balljoint-loosen lug nuts-jack up car on sub frame -insert jack stand in place of jack-remove wheel,caliper,rotor-remove tie rod end (loosen nut till nut is flush with tie rod end stud, beat on nut till tie rod end pops out, remove nut all the way and swing tie rod out of the way. -rotate strut to access balljoint nut-loosen balljoint nut leaving nut on by a two or three threads-Beat on nut with hand sledge-control arm will pop down be stopped by nut.-jack up control arm from the side about 1/2'' or so-insert jack stand on the outter most part of control arm (sort of use the top hook part of jack stand to grab the outter round part of jack stand-lower control arm onto jack stand-remove nut on ball joint-lift spindal/strut assembly up and out of the way**all control arm presure is now on the jack stand-beat on ball joint until it pops out.Install Balljoint-do not install zerk fitting yet-place balljoint in hole and tap into place getting it centered lined up. dont be a panty wuss, just a few good hard strikes on opposite sides alternating will get it started. just feel and look at the "ball joint stop lip" keeping it from getting cantered one way or the other.-jack up side of control arm taking presure off jack stand-relocate jack stand to side of control arm and lower-center block of wood with small / thick metal shim under ball joint.-lower arm till ball joint bottom makes contact with shim only when jack is removed.-using hand sledge, beat on outter most part of control arm. you are beating the arm down over the ball joint.-inspect to see progres and repeat above process.-you will see the ball joint "stop lip" gap decreasing as it seats.-once satisfied the ball joint is in, you might have a 1/16'' gap between the control arm and the ball joint "stop lip". -install ball joint boot making sure it snaps all the way around -grab spindal assembly and lift up and set on ball joint stud.-install nut and tighten-remove wood block-beat on bottom of ball joint a couple more times-check ball joint nut again-install zerk fitting and grease till you feel/see the boot swell -the rest is reverse order on the rotor,caliper and tie rod end.-remember to debur tie rod end stud / nut and test fit tie rod end nut prior to putting it on.------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------3g alternator upgrade step by step (3.8 and 5.0 only)-96 ford Taurus for voltage regulator or brush kit.At this point you have a 3g alt and have made it fit as well as trim work done to the mounting ect.Cut off the connector that has the wh/bk and two bk/or leads leaving 2'' of slack incase you mess up.Add a connector to the end of the wht/bk lead and hook that up to the sense part of the alt.Cut and add a ring lug to the end of the y/wht wire and connect to alt outputRemove yellow wire from the battery side of the starter relay.Cut off the two headlamp harness leads (they have fuse links) that splice into the yellow side of the splice.Connect the headlamp wires up to the starter relay on the battery side via a couple or one ring lug.You now should be holding a harness that has two black/org and one yellow wire, keep it for spare parts.Connect and ring lug a 6awg or better flex power cable from the alt output to the battery side of the starter relay.Plug in the small "D" shaped connector with the Grn, Wht and yel wires. The green wire remained the same.DONE!!================================================Is the 5.0 a roller engine or not??pull a push rod outa roller 5.0 engine will have 6.27" pushrodsa non roller will have 6.9" pushrods>>>> turbocoupe50===============================================302 intake differences (thank you user name "jim Miller"first off, visit this site with pics included.The way to identify the vast majority of lower intakes is to look at the rear driver’s side and find the cast in name of the supplier. You will find names such as SAC, SAC 1, SAC 2, SAC 3, SAC 4, ALCAN, and CAE. The SAC casting are sand mold castings which have a rough sand finish and use only one mold per intake. The CAE and ALCAN lower intakes are investment cast which re-uses the mold and results in a smoother finish on the intake with less core shift. The ALCAN has a distinctive wire mesh pattern in the top valleys (see above and below photos).When ported properly to a stock replacement gasket size the SAC, ALCAN, or CAE intakes will flow over 200cfm average: There is another supplier of lower intake to Ford and I still do not know what model cars Ford installed these intakes on from the factory. The casting mark is not on the back driver’s side like all the others. If you turn these intakes over and look at the bottom of the cooling water crossover passage, you will find an “M 3” or "M 2" cast into the bottom of the passage. See the picture. The part number of this intake is RF-E6SE-9K461-D2A with the D2A indicating this intake. ALCANs and CAEs have D3A and the SACs have D5A. Knowing these numbers can make finding the intakes much easier in the junk yard as the part number is on top the cooling water passage at the front of the intake.The significance of these various intakes is in their potential for porting. The #1, #5, #2, #3, #6 and #7 runners tend to get thin on the short side (back of the “knee” of the curve) and if you’re not careful, you can break through the casting on the top exposed surface of the runner while porting. So, the more material that is cast into the exposed top of the runner, the less chance you have of breaking through the casting. Of course you can TIG weld a puddle of aluminum in the area to avoid breaking through, but you loose the 100% stock look of the intake. Granted it is not easy to see the welds if you don’t get carried away but it is detectable upon inspection.If you want the best lower intake to port for a stock intake application, you need to find one of the M3 castings. Their runner cross section at the head is smaller and more restricted than the other 5.0 lower intakes, but they have much more meat in the casting for porting. This is easily seen when you look at a runner such as the #5 runner where it meets the head . See the picture of a SAC, ALCAN and M3 intake casting.The SAC intakes have the least amount of material, the ALCAN and CAE have more, and the M 3 intake has the most. The M3 has enough material to produce a 1250 size cross section at the head without having to weld the top of the runner. It holds potential to produce the best flow un-welded. Happy Hunting! ==============================================Fuel sending unit infoConventional "buttstuffog cluster"87 Evtm page 127 or 129 shows Empty - resistance - 60 to 86 ohmsFull - resistance - 8 to 12 ohmsFully Electronic cluster87 shop manual 33-05-23 troubleshooting step TJ6 showsEmpty- resistance-9-12ohmsFull-high resistance - 154-160ohms88 turbo was able to verify his fuel guage was working properly. Just unplug the gray two wire connector "C491" under the package shelf accessable in the trunk. The two wires are yellow/white and a black. Insert a 10 ohm resistor in tehplug crossing the yellow/white and black wire. Make sure you have jumpered the fuel guage side of the wiring harness with this 10ohm resistor. Turn on your key and the needle should peg showing a full tank. This test was performed on a thunderbird turbo version. I wouldnt think it would be different for 3.8 or 5.0 engines but one never knows. lay on your back under the tanklook to the rightfind a two wire harnessone wire is yellow / whitethe other is likely black.this should be the sender harnessgrab harness and follow its path upit should be going up and finally under your package shelf in the trunkpackage shelf-in trunk up near speakersget in trunklook for a connector with yellow white wire and a blackunhook connectorone end goes to your dash guage the other goes to the senderdisconnect sender connectorconnect red meter lead to the yellow whiteconnect black meter lead directly to the metal tank***do not deviate from the above two steps or reading may be wrongset meter to resistance and readjot down that number you getadd 5gal of gasread senderjot down that numberif there is a change then the sender is assumed to be good.To test the guage, insert a paper clip in the connector (C491) This connector is the other end you disconnected leading to the guage turn on keygas needle will peg if its goodgas needle will peg if its a conventional clustergas needle will go to empty if its a digital cluster sendergo to my diy link below for details.go to my electrical tech sticky "1987 evtm" page 129 for wiring diagram.post your resultsYou can define what sender you have based on your readings as well as determin if it works.I have often thought that if one puts a digital cluster sender in a conventional dash car, the leads on the guage can be flipped there to compensate for the tank circuit,,,,,,,,,,(you getting this daminc?)===============================================Blower Motor HVAC only runs on HIGHZERO DOLLAR FIX**warning, after this repair, do not touch internal parts, BURN HAZARD***Remove the glove boxlocate the resistor mounted in the air boxIt will have one connector and is mounted by two screwspull it out and stare at it real closethere will be small springs mounted to clipsThese springs are the resistors which limit fan speedThere will be another tiny tiny device that looks like a electronics partThis would be a fuse and you will remove it nowInsert in a section of 30awg wire or smaller in place of the fuseThis thin section of wire will act as the "new" fuseTest fanall speeds should workWhen debris gets built up inside the fan causing it to be "heavy", the fuse will blow again.==============================================Keyless Entry tid bitPushing 7,8 and 9,0 together signals the "Lock" function according to user billyF17.==============================================EATC or ATC codes and troubleshootingATC Codes possible of codes 1-15, code 88 is system passes testCode trouble code 2 displayed**assume first off that your Floor Panel is jammed with debris from buildup ect which may prevent the door from moving freely and cause this code.**we are going to bypass the EATC system in the following steps1 Disconnect the two identical 14 pin conn's at rear of ATC2 Turn Ign switch to RunJ1= (or conn C124) pass side control assembly, pin 11 should be blank, pin 1 should be BR/LGJ2= (or conn C126) driver side control assembly, pin 12 should be blank, pin 1 should be LB/RD**verify you have a good ground on J2 pin 4 via continuity check from vehicle chassis to the conn.3 Supply yourself with two jumper wires and perfrom the two tests.*caution, you are going to supply Direct battery voltage to the Floor panel via pin J2-8 to test that it moves. Make sure you have power on this pin. The door should move when the J2-4 is made which is ground.4 jumper J1-6(pink) to J2-8(+bat LB/Pk AND J1-9(wh/y) to J2-4(bk)*******The book says to do this test quickly, as in no more than one second or you may burn something up.If door swings fully in one direction the proceed to next step by reversing the polarity to swing door in opposite direction5 jumper J1-9 to J2-8 AND J1-6 to J2-4.if door swings opposite driection fully, proceed on.Resistance check of Floor Panel sensor **J1 only***the sensor is nothing more than a variable resistor with three legs.Pin 4 is one side of the resistor, pin 5 is the other side of the resistor, pin 13 is the moving center tap.6 total resistance of sensor at J1 pins 4 to 5 should be about 500-600ohms7 This step is kinda tricky and really depends on which position your door is in at this moment in time, especially if there is debris in the duct work that prevents the door from moving fully.anyway, resistance from J1 pins 13(R/lg) to 4(BK/W) should be 70-550ohmsResistance from J1 pins 13(R/lg) to 5(LG/O) should be 200-500 ohms.8 Here is what i would do if you can manually move the door with your hand or something. Treat this sensor like it were a throttle position sensor.from J1 pins 13 to 5 with an ohm meter, measure resistance and manually move the door slowly watching the resistance scale increase and decrease smoothly.from J1 pins 13 to 4 with an ohm meter, measure resistance and manually move the door slowly watching the resistance scale increase and decrease smoothly.========================Squeeks, find em quicklyget a couple cans of wd40 and toss them in the car with youplan out a decent drive that you know for a fact will produce the squeeks you hearbefore you take off, spray down on suspension piece part in the area you hear the noisego for a drive, if the problem is still there, stop the car and spray a new area or connectionwhen the problem goes away, you just located your squeek.======================================------------------------Web based resources**my favorite>> http://www.therangerstation.com**http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/Diagnostic testing with codes 3 step method**For more detailed info and other options to pulling codes, visit the Tech library at therangerstation.com. Scroll down on the left and click on EEC-IV Diagnostics under the "computer" section.To pull codes, locate your diagnostic connectors usually on the driver side engine bay.There are two connectors, one large female one has 6 pins sort of triangle shaped. 4 pins along the bottom row and 2 on the top row. Count these pins by looking into the connector and counting each row left to right.The second connector will be a single wire female plug as well located near the 6 pin female plug.Below will be instructions on how to use a jumper wire to connect the "sig rtn" lead to the "sti". Here is where you would use a paper clip to make this jumper. The SIG RTN connetion is on the large connector , top row , right hand pin. (top row has two pins). The "STI" conneciton is the single wire lead near the diagnostic large connector. Read below and install the jumper when told to.MEMORY CODES Memory codes are problems that the computer has noticed in the past. If for example there was a loose wire to a solenoid that only lost contact while driving but was making contact while testing the system there would be NO HARD FAULT CODE. The code would show up IN MEMORY. The same would happen for a sensor that only went out of range occasionally. Memory codes come out AFTER the separator pulse.NOTE: The computer will erase the memory after a certain number of engine re-starts if the problem does not repeat itself. The number of re-starts varies from 20 to 80 depending on the year of the vehicle. The later models keep memory longer.Clearing CodesThese codes are kept in memory for 40 warm up cycles. To clear the codes for purposes of testing or confirming repair, perform the code reading procedure. When the fault codes begin to be displayed, de-activate the test by either disconnecting the jumper wire or releasing the test button on the hand scanner. Stopping the test during code transmission will erase the continuous memory. Do not disconnect the negative battery cable to clear the codes; the keep alive memory will be cleared and a new code (19) will be stored for loss of PCM power.Below will mention using a test light instead of the check engine light during the instructions you will read. If you would like to be up near the engine and pull the codes then hook up the jumper wire when instructed and as described above. NOW, hook up a professional or riged up test light from the positive batter terminal to the large test connector , bottom row 2nd pin (STO pin) counting left to right looking into the plug. When you follow the steps below, the test light will strobe codes and how to decode them will follow below. I have used a 12dc buzzer i got out of an old microwave that gives me an audible tone. This makes it easier to focus on the paperwork end of the task so im not looking back and forth at a light and paper second guessing myself.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>START HERESTEP 1Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Method OR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT METHODThe Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) on the dash (Engine Light) can be used to retrieve the stored codes. This method does not allow for any system investigation. This should only be used in the field where quick checks are needed. Follow the directions previously given for the scan tool procedure. To activate the tests, use a jumper wire to connect the signal return (SIG RTN) pin on the diagnostic connector to the Self-Test Input (STI) connector. The self test input (STI) line is the separate wire and connector with or near the diagnostic connector. Codes are transmitted with a pause between flashes. Code 32 would be sent as 3-flashes, a pause and then 2-flashes. A slightly longer pause separates the codes. The only way to repeat the code is to recycle the system. The Continuous Memory Codes are separated from the other codes by 6-seconds, a flash and then another 6-second delay. Compare the 2-digit and 3-digit Diagnostic Codes with the appropriate chart. STEP 2KEY ON ENGINE OFF (KOEO) TEST ************KOEONOTE: On 4.9L trucks with a manual transmission hold the clutch pedal in during this test.On Diesel engine trucks hold the throttle to the floor during this test.1. Make sure engine is fully warmed. If in doubt, run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes.2. Turn ignition off and wait 10 seconds for system to shut off. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual).3. Hook up light and jumper (or a tester if you have one). Turn key to ON (do not start engine).4. Fast Codes are output (ignore fast light flashes).NOTE: Unhook self test input jumper (or tester if used) at any time during code output to erase memory.5. Read hard faults.6. Separator Pulse. 7. Read memory codes. 8. See code explanations and check components as necessary.Use FIRST CODE OUTPUT and retest after any repairs are made.STEP 3KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) TEST ***************KOER1. Make sure engine is fully warmed. If in doubt, run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes.2. Turn ignition off and wait 10 seconds for system to shut off. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual).3. Hook up light and jumper (or tester if you have one).4. Make sure vehicle is safe to run and start engine.5. Engine I.D. should be output.6. Step on brake and turn steering wheel 1/4 turn. If the vehicle has an overdrive cancel switch, push it.7. If a "Goose" pulse is received, move throttle quickly 1/2 way down and release.8. Fast Codes are output (ignore). 9. Read codes.10. See code explanations and check components as necessary. Use FIRST CODE OUTPUT and retest after any repairs are made.2 digit Code Definition11 System checks OK 12 Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) - ISC 13 (O) ISC did not respond properly (extends to touch throttle then retracts for KOEO) - ISC (R) Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high) (M) ISC sticking, open ITS circuit or TP sticking 14 Ignition pickup was erratic - Ignition Systems E4OD Transmission diesel RPM sensor - Diesel RPM sensor 15 (O) No Keep Alive Memory power to PCM pin 1 or bad PCM (Memory Test Failure) (M) KAM (pin 1) was interrupted (was battery disconnected ?) 16 1.9L & 2.5L - Throttle stop set too high - IDLE or Idle Set Procedures 2.3L - RPM's too low - IDLE (O) Electronic ignition - IDM circuit fault - Ignition Systems 17 1.9L & 2.5L - Throttle stop set too low - IDLE 18 (R) Check base timing & advance function - Timing Tests (M) Ignition TACH signal erratic - Ignition Systems 19 (O) No Vehicle Power (pins 37 + 57) or bad PCM VPWR Diagnosis (R) Erratic idle during test (reset throttle & retest) - Idle Set Procedures Electronic ignition Cylinder ID sensor/circuit problem - Ignition Systems 21 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT 22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range - MAP 23 Throttle sensor out of range or throttle set too high - TPS 24 Intake Air Temperature(ACT) (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range - IAT VAT 25 Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS 26 Mass Air Flow (MAF) or Vane Air Flow (VAF) out of range - MAF VAF Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor out of range - Transmissions 27 Vehicle Speed Sensor problem - VSS 28 Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range - VAT 2.3L w/Electronic Ignition - Cyl ID, IDM low or right coil pack failure - Ignition Systems 29 Vehicle Speed Sensor problem - VSS EGR CODES DEPEND ON WHAT SYSTEM TYPE THE VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH: EVP is for vehicles equipped with EGR solenoid(s), with or without an EVP sensor EVR is for vehicles equipped with an EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) and an EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor PFE is for vehicles with Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) sensor and and an EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) If you don't know what type of system you have, go to the EVP heading, which is the first one. There are pictures under the different headings to help you identify the system. 31 EVP - (O, R, M) EVP signal is/was out of range - EVP EVR - (O, R, M) EVP signal is/was low - EVR PFE - (O, R, M) PFE signal is/was low - PFE 32 EVP - (R) EGR not responding properly during test - EVP EVR - (O, R, M) EVP signal is/was low - EVR PFE - (R, M) PFE shows low pressure, EGR not seating or memory, not seating intermittently - PFE 33 ALL - (O, M) EGR did not open/ respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently - EVP EVR PFE 34 EVP - (R) EGR did not respond properly during test - EVP EVR - (O, R, M) EVP sensor is/was high - EVR PFE - (O, R, M) PFE sensor is/was out of range - PFE 35 EVP - (R) Engine RPM's too low to test EGR system - EVP EVR - (O, R, M) EVP sensor signal is/was high - EVR PFE - (O, R, M) PFE sensor signal is/was high - PFE 38 Idle Tracking Switch signal was intermittent - ISC 39 Transmission Torque Converter clutch not engaging - Transmissions 40 SERIES FUEL/AIR INJECTION CODES ON VEHICLES WITH DUAL OXYGEN SENSORS REFER TO THE RIGHT OR REAR SENSOR. EXCEPT: 1984-1988 3.8L ENGINES: LEFT SENSOR 41 (R) System lean - Fuel control (M) System was lean for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching) - Fuel control 42 (R) System rich - Fuel control (M) System was rich for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching) - Fuel control 43 (R) HO2S sensor not reading (run at 2000 rpm's for 2 minutes and retest - check for HO2S switching) (M) Was lean at WOT for 3 seconds or more - Fuel control 44 AIR system inoperative - Air Injection 45 AIR not Diverting (AIRD) - Air Injection Electronic Ignition - coil primary circuit failure - Ignition Systems 46 AIR Bypass (AIRB) not working - Air Injection Electronic Ignition - primary circuit failure coil 2 - Ignition Systems 47 Low flow unmetered air (check for small vacuum leaks, injector o'rings, gaskets etc.) E4OD transmission 4x4 switch/circuit problem - Transmissions 48 High flow unmetered air (check for large vacuum leak, inlet hoses etc.) Electronic Ignition - coil primary circuit failure - Ignition Systems 49 Electronic Ignition - spout signal circuit problem - Ignition Systems Transmission 1/2 shift problem - Transmissions 51 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor signal is/was too high - ECT 52 Power Steering Pressure Switch/circuit open - PSP (R) Did you turn wheel during test ? 53 Throttle Position sensor too high - TPS 54 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) signal high - IAT VAT 55 No or low (under 7.5 V) Key Power to PCM pin 5 56 Vane Air Flow (VAF) or Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor high - VAF MAF Transmission Oil Temperature sensor too high - Transmissions 57 Intermittent in Park/Neutral/ Switch or Neutral Pressure switch circuit - PNP or Transmissions 1990 Scorpio - Octane jumper installed (information only code - to inform you if it is installed or not) 58 Idle Tracking Switch (ITS) signal problem ISC Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range or open - VAT 59 AXOD 4/3 circuit fault - Transmissions 3.0L SHO - Low speed fuel pump circuit problem - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits Transmission 2/3 shift problem - Transmissions 1990 Scorpio - Idle jumper installed (information only code - to inform you if it is installed or not) 61 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is or was too low - ECT 62 AXOD (KOEO only) 3/2 circuit short to ground - Transmissions AXOD (KOEO AND KOER) 4/3 circuit failure - Transmissions E4OD excessive converter clutch slippage - Transmissions 63 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) signal too low TPS 64 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) signal low or grounded - IAT VAT 65 Check intermittent HO2S (signal or ground) - Fuel Control (R) E4OD truck - cycle OD cancel switch after engine ID is received - Transmissions 1984 3.8L ONLY - O, M Battery voltage high (check for electrical system overcharging) 66 Vane Air Flow (VAF) or Mass Air Flow (MAF) signal low - VAF MAF Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) signal low (possibly grounded) - Transmissions 67 Park/Neutral circuit fault - PNP Transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor circuit - Transmissions (M) Intermittent Park Neutral Position (PNP) sensor fault - PNP 68 Idle Tracking Switch (ITS) circuit (possibly grounded) - ISC Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range or grounded - VAT 3.8L AXOD -Transmission Temperature Switch (TTS) open - Transmissions Electronic Transmission - Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor was overheated - Transmissions 69 AXOD transmission (O) 3/2 switch closed (possible short circuit) - Transmissions AXOD (M) 3/2 switch open (poss short to power) - Transmissions E4OD 3/4 shift problem - Transmissions 70 (M) 3.8L AXOD - Data link to instrument cluster fault. Service any other EEC codes, erase memory and retest. If code is still present refer to instrument cluster diagnosis manual. 71 (M) 1.9L TBI, 2.3L TBI, 2.5L TBI - ITS signal was grounded when throttle should have been opening ITS - ISC ISC motor problem or Idle Tracking Switch (ITS) signal wire shorted to ground - ISC (M) 1.9L MFI - PCM re-initialized. Possible electrical noise, case ground or intermittent VPWR problem - VPWR Diagnosis (M) 3.8L AXOD - Data link to instrument cluster fault - See code 70 72 (R) No MAP or MAF change in "goose" test - retest, check for frequency or voltage change - MAP MAF (M) 1.9L MFI - VPWR circuit to PCM was intermittent - VPWR Diagnosis (M) 2.3L T/C - PCM re-initialized. Possible electrical noise, case ground or intermittent VPWR problem - VPWR Diagnosis (M) 3.8L AXOD - Message center data link circuit fault - See code 70 73 (O) Rerun test, if 73 is still output replace TPS (R) No Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) change in "goose" test. Must get at least 25% throttle rotation - TPS 74 Was brake depressed after engine ID was received ? Brake On Off (BOO) signal open or short to ground - BOO 75 Brake On Off (BOO) signal shorted to power - BOO 76 Vane Air Flow (VAF) did not respond to "goose" test - VAF 77 System did not receive "goose" test - see TESTS 78 (M) VPWR circuit to PCM was intermittent or the PCM is bad VPWR Diagnosis 79 A/C is on or pin 10 is shorted to power 80 SERIES CODES GENERALLY ARE CIRCUIT PROBLEMS THAT COULD BE WIRING, RELAY OR SOLENOID RELATED. ONLY ONE OF THE CIRCUITS LISTED UNDER THE CODE IS USED ON EACH VEHICLE. THE FAULT IS IN WHICHEVER SOLENOID OR CIRCUIT IS PRESENT ON THE VEHICLE 81 Boost control solenoid - Solenoids AIRD solenoid - Solenoids and Air Injection 3.0L SHO - Inlet Air Solenoid - Solenoids 82 2.3L TC - Fan Control wire shorted to ground - A/C and Fan Circuits AIRB solenoid - Solenoids and Air Injection 3.8L SC - Super Charger Bypass Solenoid - Solenoids 83 High Electro Drive Fan circuit fault - A/C and Fan Circuits EGR Control solenoid - Solenoids 3.0L SHO - Low Speed Fuel Pump Relay circuit - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits 84 EGR Vacuum Regulator - Solenoids EGR cutoff solenoid - Solenoids EGR Vent solenoid - Solenoids 85 2.3L T/C Automatic - 3/4-4/3 Shift solenoid - Transmissions CANP solenoid (ALL 1989) - Solenoids (M) 1.9L MFI - System has corrected rich condition - Fuel control 86 2.3L or 2.9L Truck - A4LD 3/4 shift solenoid - Transmissions (M) 1.9L MFI - System has corrected lean condition - Fuel control 87 (O) Fuel pump circuit fault (check inertia switch) - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits Vehicles with 2BBL carb - Temperature Compensated Accelerator Pump Solenoid - Solenoids (M) intermittent in fuel pump primary circuit - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits NOTE: On some Escorts with automatic seat belts this code is normal IN MEMORY due to the wiring 88 Throttle Kicker Solenoid - Solenoids Variable Voltage Choke relay circuit fault - VVC Fan Control circuit fault - A/C and Fan Circuits A4LD - Converter Clutch Override solenoid - Transmissions Electronic Ignition - IDM, DPI or spout circuit fault - Ignition Systems 89 A4LD - Converter Clutch Override solenoid - Transmissions AXOD Torque Converter Control solenoid circuit - Transmissions Exhaust Heat Control (heat riser) solenoid circuit - Solenoids 90 SERIES FUEL/AIR INJECTION CODES ON VEHICLES WITH DUAL OXYGEN SENSORS REFER TO THE LEFT OR FRONT SENSOR. EXCEPT: 1984-1988 3.8L ENGINES: RIGHT SENSOR 91 (R, M) System running lean - Fuel control Transmission SS 1 circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions 92 (R) System running rich - Fuel control Transmission SS 2 circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions 93 (O) Throttle linkage binding or bad ISC motor ISC (R) HO2S not reading - Fuel control Transmission TCC circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions 94 AIR system inoperative - Air Injection Transmission TCC circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions 95 (O) Fuel pump: open, bad ground or always on - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits (R) AIR not Diverting (AIRD) - Air Injection (M) Possible bad fuel pump ground or open between fuel pump and pin 8 at PCM (Fuel Pump Monitor signal) - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits 96 (O) Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits (R) AIR Bypass (AIRB) not working - Air Injection (M) (Service 87 code first if present) Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits 97 E4OD OD cancel light circuit failure - Transmissions 98 (R) Did not pass KOEO yet (Get 11 in KOEO first) Transmission EPC circuit/solenoid failure - Transmissions 99 (R) ISC needs to learn (Let idle for 2 minutes; Erase memory and retest) Transmission EPC circuit/solenoid failure - Transmissions DefinitionsACT Air Charge Temperature Sensor / BP See MAP / EEC Electronic Engine Control System ECT Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve -- EVP Valve Position Sensor EGR / HEGO Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor KOEO Key On Engine Off KOER Key On Engine Running MAF Mass Air Flow Sensor MAP Manifold Abso Quote Selected
DIY stuff Reply #2 – November 28, 2010, 01:47:00 PM should be good now,, only 2 hours later fixing all the links. there are a couple dead ones though. Quote Selected
DIY stuff Reply #3 – November 28, 2010, 05:16:07 PM Lots of great info here. This should be moved to the "greatest hits/tips" section and be made a sticky. Quote Selected
DIY stuff Reply #4 – November 28, 2010, 07:40:26 PM Quote from: 20thanniver-ls;343551Lots of great info here. This should be moved to the "greatest hits/tips" section and be made a sticky. yup. Quote Selected
DIY stuff Reply #5 – September 24, 2012, 03:29:16 PM Here is a complete scan of 1986 EVTM. It's in high resolution.https://picasaweb.google.com/116504312330534460153/EVTM?authkey=Gv1sRgCMuUiNWbkfzJiQE Quote Selected
DIY stuff Reply #6 – September 25, 2012, 01:59:26 AM some did not appear on your site, Quote Selected
DIY stuff Reply #8 – September 25, 2012, 08:19:50 PM it may just be my pc but several are not loading.Photobucket.com is free also but i see you already have this site setup to use.maybe someone else can check the link here in the USAThank you for doing this scan!!! Quote Selected
DIY stuff Reply #9 – September 26, 2012, 12:37:07 AM Some of the pages look blank on the summery page but are there if I click on them. Quote Selected
DIY stuff Reply #10 – September 26, 2012, 03:39:31 AM If you want to download it, here is the zip file with all the pages - http://trinom.org/tmp/86_T-Bird_EVTM.zip (71,4 MB) Quote Selected
DIY stuff Reply #12 – May 06, 2013, 02:50:44 AM no sn-95 t-5 link .I'm glad you do things like this. Quote Selected
DIY stuff Reply #13 – May 06, 2013, 03:28:47 PM thanks,,,i figured coolcat.net has all the sn95 links,, your thoughts? Quote Selected
DIY stuff Reply #14 – May 06, 2013, 08:18:06 PM mostly joking.I've found that a lot of guys didn't want to use any sn-95 t-5's because they think they need to swap input shafts and bellhousings.its really not that big of a deal, but its really easy to just use the f-150 flywheel or balance the 3.8 one and use an 11" clutch. when I looked into it, Icouldn't find any information or anyone that used one with the 3;8 bell. Quote Selected
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