The question of the century?? July 19, 2012, 07:45:06 PM What type of oil do you use to break in a new engine. I use 10W30 run the engine in low gear accelerate it 8-10 times and let the engine brake the car down. Then i drain the oil replace the filter and install SYNTHETIC 15W40. Please post your theories or experience.:hick::burnout: Quote Selected
The question of the century?? Reply #1 – July 19, 2012, 08:18:19 PM I use organic turkey fat for six pulls. Then i switch to 100% african ostrich grease for two pulls, then i drain the pan ard fill er up with straight up crude oil. Works like a champ every time. Quote Selected
The question of the century?? Reply #2 – July 19, 2012, 10:36:24 PM I use NON detergent oil for initial break in. I run the car up to about 30mph then speed up to about 55mph all while in 5th gear 8-10 times. Then I drain and change in to Regular oil run that about 500 miles then drain and fill with standard Rotella 15w40. I always make sure to put about 10,000 miles before I switch to syn oil, that is if the application I'm working with can handle the lack of zinc. I know running my 1st 2.3T I ran syn had problems spiting out the followers. After several telling me and lots of research backing them up, the syn oil lacked the zinc I needed for the cam and followers. So since then been running just reg rotella 15w40 Just how I do things Stuckman Quote Selected
The question of the century?? Reply #3 – July 20, 2012, 06:56:52 AM Well it is such a controversial issue it has just about every blog i read going nuts. Example and i am not being critical just gathering others experience and knowledge. Using NON DETERGENT oil is one thing i do not agree with. You need detergents for break in because you need to clean the walls of honing particles that get burnished off. Please dont get me wrong i am on a data collecting mode and i am not pointing fingers. Example their are 25 car lines that install Synthetics from the factory including the VETTE. So i do agree with the ZINC you mentioned for flat tappet non roller cam engines!! So that is what this post is about. IDEAS AND PROCEDURES!!! Thank YOU Quote Selected
The question of the century?? Reply #4 – July 20, 2012, 07:32:30 AM Depending on the parts, I may not break in at all. I always do first fill with manufacturers recommended, and I usually change out early for the first. With high nickel blocks and aluminum blocks with sleeves, that's all I do. With older stuff, I break in pretty much like Tom does. Quote Selected
The question of the century?? Reply #5 – July 20, 2012, 09:45:58 AM Well I'm not a professional engine builder and only build engines for myself. So the saving time of cutting corners in the way that I was shown to do things I JUST DON'T DO. Not so sure how you guys do your stuff but this is a little insight in to how I do things. Once I get the parts back from the machine shop its time to get cleaning. Not to sure how those little particles would be in there. I've always cleaned and cleaned and cleaned. I start out with fresh roll of paper towels coat the towel with clean oil and clean each cylinder until when I go over it get I nothing but a clean white paper towel . We're not talking a 5min job here were talking working each cylinder over and over and over and over until all the left overs from the machining process are gone. This takes time and that seems to be the thing that most don't want to spend. Now if I was dealing with a remaned unit or one someone else built I would have to agree with you TOM.Hope that helps clear things up. Stuckman Quote Selected
The question of the century?? Reply #6 – July 20, 2012, 04:10:10 PM Last cam I installed, the manufacturer said to use strait 30 weight and then cut over to 10W30 and not to use synthetic for 10,000 miles. All I use after initial break in is synthetic 10W30. It may be the difference in where I live, but 10W30 works best here. Quote Selected
The question of the century?? Reply #7 – July 20, 2012, 06:37:40 PM Fill with 30W and run for 20 minutes varying the RPM from idle to 3k. After that drain oil, change filter and fill with recommended oil, drive it for 100 miles. Then if nothing brakes, flog the snot out of it!! Quote Selected
The question of the century?? Reply #8 – July 20, 2012, 06:38:10 PM Quote from: lakenheath24;394621I use organic turkey fat for six pulls. Then i switch to 100% african ostrich grease for two pulls, then i drain the pan ard fill er up with straight up crude oil. Works like a champ every time.Now that is funny!! Quote Selected
The question of the century?? Reply #9 – July 20, 2012, 07:12:36 PM I used 10w-30 for first start up, then synthetic after an hr of run time.... of course with a new filter...... I'm also running 10w-30 synthetic. Quote Selected
The question of the century?? Reply #10 – July 20, 2012, 09:42:25 PM That is what i thought. Very different ways and theories. Note cleaning the engine is always a good thing. And when the engine is breaking in the rings burnish material that comes off the walls naturally is in the oil supply. So with that i change the oil after app 10 minutes and after i do the 10 or so. hard acceleration and DE-accelleration program. This thrushes the rings in to the walls ans then the debree is suspended in to the oil. So that is what i was expecting. Different thoughts and that is what i was looking for. Thanks Quote Selected
Topic: The question of the century?? (Read 1138 times)
previous topic - next topic
