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Messages - CustomT

16
At The Track / do some racing in 09
Hmmmm, I am planning to come to CJ this time around and wouldn't mind putting my Bird up against some of the others here.  It would be fun me thinks :burnout:
17
Engine Tech / Correct timing?
Finally got her timed right.  Timing was set at 30 deg BTDC, way to much.  Played around with her and finally got a good timing on her, she likes it at 16 deg BTDC at a total of 38 degrees.  She runs sweet now.  One thing I did notice, the timing chain is a bit stretched, couldn't keep the timing line in one spot it kept bouncing up and down a bit.  Need to put a new one on before it becomes to late.
18
User Rides / Finally, the new interior!!
Most definately, you can find me Monday thru Friday at the Shell Station at the corner of Palm and Partin here in Niceville.
19
User Rides / Finally, the new interior!!
, I'm jealous now.  Now you got me wanting to do something of that nature to my TC.....Ohhhhhh, my aching wallet:o

That looks toooo good, I love what you did.  Makes what I did to the inside of my car lame.  Great job, I love it.
21
Archive & Library (Read Only) / 3g install **go directly to post 50 for drawing
Well, installed a new 200 amp 3G alternator a couple days ago on my TC.  It was a bit different as the 2.3 is not in the car but a 5.0 and of course the majority of the wires are not the standard color code.  Anyway, I followed the 2.3 install diagram posted here as I still have the 2.3 wiring setup for my alternator.  At first I followed the 5.0 diagram and this proved to be wrong for my setup. 

The 2.3 install diagram was right on the money, got it all switched over and hooked up and everything worked perfectly.  Was running 14.4 to 14.6 at idle and around 13.8 to 14.0 under full load (everything was on, stero, amp, lights, fog lights, heater, windshield wipers, turn signal, dome light and other electronics I have hooked up).  The one thing I noticed was I was idling high around 1200 rpms, got to checking and found that the electric choke was hooked up to the "S" (Stator) side of the old regulator.  As the old regulator was not being used anymore no power was getting to the choke.  I spliced this wire into the "S" terminal on the 3G alternator and all was fine.

Well, yesterday on the way home from work the voltmeter in the car starting going nuts!!!!  It was reading 14.6, 15.2, 15.6, 15.9, 14.5, 13.4, 12.9, 14.2, 15.3, 15.7, 12.9, 12.4 and then settled at 12.2 and slowly dropped to 11.8 by the time I go home.  I checked all my connections and fuse and all was good.  Come to find out I got a faulty alternator so, send it back to DB Electrical and wait for a new one.

All in all, the 2.3 diagram is right on the money, one piece of advise would be to change (if it is hasn't been done yet) your ground wire on the body to a 4AWG or 2AWG wire may save you a lot of headache later on.  Also, the brown wire with the orange stripe is only 10 gauge, you may want to consider changing that to a 4AWG wire also, it also may save you a lot of headache later on.

Will post more later when I get the new alternator in and hooked up.
22
Lounge / Today i turn 21 Happy B-day to me
Happy Birthday to ya, man, I can hardly remember when I turned 21.  Everything was a blur and 29 years later it's still a blur.:(

Anyway here's to ya :cheers:  and enjoy your day.
23
Lounge / Fiddlebug
Quote from: jcassity;246396
ahhh,,,

and she decides to get her site up and running with a ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,FREE PREVIEW OF CHAPTER ONE:bowdown:
http://authortree.com/fiddlebugsforest/Preview%20Book/2377254


That's great!!!  Congragts to your wife.  I just let my grandaughter read the preview and she wants a copy of the book, so I will get her one.  She also wants to know if the author will sign it for her?  I said I would ask.

This is awesome, I am very happy for your wife, I hope she continues to write more books and more Fiddlebug adventures.
24
Electrical Tech / Freaky gauges and more
Not sure about your other issues but I do know your light switch is bad if your lights starting flashing on and off.  What's happening is the switch is getting hot and causing a short which in turn makes the lights flash on and off.

As far as I know, both fans should be working, I know on my TC I have two fans pulling and one fan in front of the radiator pushing air through.  So you may have a bad switch or connection there also.

Most likely you have a short going on somewhere, it may well be the IVR but, I don't really know what to tell you there.

Wish I could be of more help, let us know what you came up with.
25
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars FOR SALE / New Chrome Mechanical Water Pump
Well, what I have is a chrome high flow water pump for a 1979 to 1985 Ford 302.  I purchased this from summit racing and it turns out I bought the wrong pump.  Unfortunately for me, I had already installed it onto my car before I realized it was the wrong pump so, summit will not take it back.

Now I am offering it to whom ever wants it at a substantial savings.  I paid $104.95 for it and will sell it for $75.00 and I will pay for shipping.  Below are the specs on it.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D313001&N=700+4294924500+4294838996+4294822066+4294908331+4294925023+4294840126+4294903574+4294903575+4294903572+400304+115&autoview=sku

PM me if anyone is interested.

Pump Flow: High-volume
Pump Material: Aluminum
Pump Finish: Chrome
Rotation: Clockwise
Notes: Designed for v-belt applications with the stock pulley.

Water Pump, Mechanical, High-Volume, Aluminum, Chrome, Ford, 5.0L, Each
26
Lounge / Ugh!! What a weekend...
So my weekend started out with me looking forward to putting my new chrome water pump on the bird along with doing some painting of the brackets.  I purchased a high flow chrome water pump from summit and could'nt wait to put it on.

I'm out side looking at the engine, lots of room should be easy but noooooo, I had to pull the alternator, power steering pump and AC unit, oh well, get to work.  Got everything off and decide since I had the power steering pump out, might as well get a new one as mine was starting to go out.

So, got everything off, matched up the water pump to the old one (making sure I have the correct one) all is good so time to install the the new pump.  I get it on, nice and secure, then I pull the pulley off the old power steering pump and put it on the new PS pump (but first paint the pulley), by now it has gotten dark, time to quit for the night.

Well, got up in the morning and went to work on the car.  I got the PS pump installed and the alternator installed, hoses hooked up and now it was time to put the pulley onto the water pump (I forgot to put it on when I had it out).  So I go to put the pulley on and , it won't fit!!!!  The pulley washiznitting the crank pulley I'm like WTF!!!!! Right pump, compared it to the old pump, they look the same!!!!  , had to take everything off again, once the pump was off I got to looking at it a little closer, pulled the tape measure out and started checking the dimensions.  The new pump's shaft was an eighth of an inch longer and a little over an eighth of an inch lower than the old pump.  On top of that, the bracket the pulley attaches to was like 2 inches or so in diameter and and the old pumps was about and inch and a half in diameter. 

So I had to run to the parts store and buy a stock pump, I have and 87 TC with an 1985 302 in it.  I ask for a 1985 WP for a 302 and they bring it out and it is the same as the chrome pump, I'm like wtf?  So he brings out one for an 87, nope, wrong one, we look at a couple more and finally find the right one, it turns out an 84 WP is what I need.  Ain't that some , got an 87 TC, with an 85 302 with an 83 timing set up and an 84 WP. :punchballs:  This sucks, nothing easy about this car when it comes to working on it.

I finally get everything back on and crank the car, it starts then stalls out, does it again and then one more time, now she won't start!!!! :mad:  Get to looking and she's not getting any fuel!!!!!  !!! Played around with it for a bit, checking fuses, checking to make sure I didn't disconnect a wire somewhere, can't find anything.  A friend of comes over and he looks at and taps on the carberator and bingo she starts, float was sticking (I was just pissed off didn't even think of that).  So the bird is back on the road now.

Now I have a high flow, chrome water pump for an 85 302 that I can't return due to I had put it on the car.  So if anyone needs or wants one I sell it you cheap!!!!

Now onto my next project, a new chrome WP, AC unit, PS pump, Valve Covers and Breather and some new paint.  Just hope I don't run into anymore issues like the this one
27
Engine Tech / Correct timing?
Ok, I have a stroked 302 with an MSD ignition with a mallory distributor and I am trying to find out the correct timing for this engine, can anyone help with this?  Specks on my engine are in my sig.
28
Audio & Other Aftermarket Electronics / How to hook up two amps, 6 speakers and two subs
Well, glad to see you two come together.  As stated earlier I decided to keep the rear deck connected to the head unit, just going to change the speakers out so all my speakers match.  I should be good all around.  With all the information you guys gave my head is still swimming from it.  :D  Anyway, thanks for all the input and yes, you need to do a sticky on installing an audio system with the diagrams (thanks for those they are very useful).

No problem on hijacking the thread, a lot came out of it and hopefully it will be useful for others to come.

Peace,
Custom T
29
Body/Appearance/Interior / Need Opinions Interior Color on 87 TC, Thinking of Changing
I have been tossing this around for a few months and can't quite make up my mind.  So, I thought I would post this here and get some opinions.

What I am thinking of doing is dying my interior (door panels and seats) so what I was thinking of doing was to dye the gray inserts on the seats and door panels to match the burgundy color of the car.  Leave the carpet black and dye the rest of the seats black (my seats are in excellent shape just a bit faded, starting to look blue).

Now, the header panel is currently a blueish gray along with the visors, here is where I'm not sure what to do.  So I was thinking about dying them also the color of the car (burgundy) or should I dye them black or leave them alone?

Either way if it don't turn out then it's off to the upholstery shop (trying not to go there) and spend $2500 to do the door panels, seats, header panel and visors....to  expensive if you ask me.

So, what do you guys think?
30
Audio & Other Aftermarket Electronics / How to hook up two amps, 6 speakers and two subs
Quote
good to see your throttled back a little. your power source was not clairified but two amps may have brought on power issues.

You are right, I did not clarify my power source.  About a year ago I Installed a 150 amp altenator.  The stereo equipment I am using is as follows:

HEAD UNIT
Pioneer AVH-P4000DVD
In-Dash Double-DIN 6" Touchscreen Monitor DVD/MP3/CD Receiver

AMP
PowerAcoustik Class A/B Series #A6004HP - 600 Watt 4-Channel Amp
Max Power: 600 Watts
RMS @ 4 Ohms: 4 X 70 Watts
RMS @ 2 Ohms: 4 X 85 Watts
RMS Bridged: 2 X 170 Watts
Full Mosfet Power Supply
Variable High Pass: 150Hz - 1.5Khz
Variable Low Pass: 40Hz - 120Hz
Hi/Low Level Input With Floating Ground
18 dB Bass Boost @ 40 Hz
Three Way Protection
Tri-Mode Capable
2 Ohm Stable
System Dsitress Indicator
LIne Output
4 Gauge Power / Ground Connectors
Gold Plated RCA Connectors

DASH SPEAKERS
KFC-1082ie
3-Way Speaker System
Max Power: 140 Watts 
3-way 4" speakers 
Fiber-textured mica-injected polypropylene woofer
Urethane surround
1" PEI balanced dome tweeter
1/2" ceramic flat tweeter
4-ohm impedance
Frequency response: 45-22,000 Hz
Sensitivity: 91 dB
Depth: 1-13/16"

DOOR SPEAKERS
Memphis 15-PRC63 - Memphis 6.5" 3 Way Triaxial Speakers
6.5" Triaxial Speakers
50W RMS Power Handling
100W Peak Power Handling
Polypropylene cone
Poly-aluminum dome tweeter
Kapton voice coil
Polyurethane Surround

REAR DECK SPEAKERS
Memphis I5-PR693
RMS/Peak 60/120 watts 
Sensitivity 90 dB 
Magnet Size 14 oz. 
Mounting Depth  3"

SUBWOOFERS (2)
P110S4 10" subwoofer
10" 4-ohm subwoofer
molded polypropylene woofer cone
power range: 50-150 watts RMS
peak power handling: 300 watts
frequency response: 20-200 Hz
sensitivity: 85.5 dB
4-ohm impedance
top-mount depth: 4-15/16"
sealed box volume: 0.65 cubic feet
ported box volume: 1.25 cubic feet