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Messages
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Messages - 50tbrd88
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Other Vehicles / Me and my collection
I'm on the fence about 5.0 or Ecoboost. I think both have pros/cons.
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Lounge / Weighed my bird
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Lounge / Weighed my bird
Anyone else weighed theirs? I'd be curious to see what a Mark or a loaded out 5.0 bird or Cougar would weigh in comparison.
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User Rides / My GTbird build
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Engine Tech / oil pan
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Other Vehicles / "Wimpy", my '88 F-250 4x4 "custom"
Quote from: bodyman;455137
Pretty sure the 92 up trucks all had stainless lines, all of mine have been. If the connections are the same could be worth the effort to get a set from a salvage yard. I sourced a set for my 85 F350 when I changed it over to fuel injection. The yard let me have them, but I pulled them and it wasn't pleasant.
yeah pulling fuel lines of a junkyard truck sounds like fun, lol. The rubber hose doesn't sound like a good idea. I just wish Napa or somewhere carried replacement hard plastic hoses like the OEM ones...
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Other Vehicles / "Wimpy", my '88 F-250 4x4 "custom"
I'm working on the fuel system now. Here's my issue:
1.) only the rear tank works
2.) all OEM fuel lines have been cut and a rubber fuel injection hose has been spliced into the line for the rear tank, bypassing the fuel selector valve. No idea why as the selector valve is mechanical and from what I've heard they rarely go bad. The lines for the front tank are not hooked up and were plugged.
3.) truck has a brand new front tank but none of the lines are hooked up obviously. Also it doesn't seem that the front tank pump is working, though it should be new-ish.
4.) rear fuel gauge non working
I put my voltmeter on the connector going to the pump for each tank. When I switch the selector valve in the cab, I get voltage to both so I don't think my switch is bad. I looked into the front tank (took the fill hose off) and it has a small amount of old/stale varnishy gas in it. I'm wondering if this could have corroded up the pump and ruined it?
Main question, where can I buy replacement fuel line? Would rubber "fuel injection hose" and small hose clamps work in place of the hard plastic factory lines (they're the same style lines and connectors as on our t-birds and Cougars)? I've bought the hose in small sections before and it's not cheap. I've been looking online and places like LMC and don't see complete replacement fuel lines for my '87.
I'd like to have both tanks working, or at least the newer and bigger front tank but am on a beater budget here. I know this is a Tbird/Cougar forum but thought I'd throw this one out there.
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Lounge / Chevy Craft magazine showing us Fox Bird guys some love
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Engine Tech / Contemplating motor build
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Show Photos / 2016 Long Island Muscle Cars Invitational
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Engine Tech / Contemplating motor build
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Engine Tech / Contemplating motor build
Quote from: Aerocoupe;455062
With your motor being worn out an well built 302 will put a smile on our face. Find a 5.0 Ford Explorer or Mercury Mountaineer motor (96 through early 2001) and start with that. Typically about $500 to $1,000 and it should have GT40 iron heads on the 96 and the early 97 models from there they are GT40P heads. Pull the motor apart and inspect the bearings, rings, and replace if necessary. Re-ring the pistons, have a valve job done on the heads and replace the valve springs with the TFS kit (https://lmr.com/item/TFS-2500100/Trick-Flow-50l-302-Mustang-Valve-Springs-Upgrade-Kit). Replace the oil pump, oil pump shaft, and timing chain for insurance reasons. I would choose a good cam for the combo like the TFS Stage One or if you can swing it get an Ed Curtis setup (cam, springs, and timing chain). So now you have a long block for about $2,000 if you bought the motor on the lower end of the scale and no machine work was needed. Reused the upper and lower intakes and do the aire temp sensor relocation. Again if you have the $$$ send the lower to TMoss (search the Corral for him) and have him port it to match the heads. I think he used to charge $100 pluss shipping using your intake. Reuse the Explorer 70mm thorttle body with the throttle linkage mod the has been dospoogeented all over the place. So if all goes well you are into this motor for about $3,000 if you do most of the work yourself (no machine work like the heads) and you have about $3,500 left over to find a Mass Air harness, MAF, A9L, associated ducting, injectors (highly recommend 30lb/hr or 36lb/hr as my 306 hit a wall with my 24's), headers (BBK's will work), your accessory brackets and accessories, and maybe some elbow grease and paint.
I am sure I missed a few things but this has been done 100's of times on Mustangs so do a little research and you should have a good game plan.
I would definitely get a custom tune so plan on $500 for the chip and dyno time. I have seen this combo hit well over 280 rwhp and if tuned right almost 300 rwhp. My guess is your worn out motor is under 200 rwhp so this would be huge grin factor and it fits the budget.
Sounds like a very affordable way to go. I'm just afraid that if I don't go ahead with a stroker and aluminum heads etc, I'll regret it down the road. I'm not going to change things up every few years, this motor would be powering my car for many years (decades even) to come.
So is it unreasonable to think I can be in the $6k range for an aluminum headed 331? Thanks for the insight fellas.
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Engine Tech / Contemplating motor build
Quote from: Haystack;455055
I've heard that scat cranks balance a lot cheaper and need less machine work then eagle.
If it were me, I'd go 347 all the way. It costs the same, you can get the same rod ratio and you will make power at lower rpm's.
I'd also skip the afr165's unless you need emissions. Trickflow FAC are the same price or slightly cheaper, have more ptv clearance for a more radical can and can be cnc'd larger if you feel the need to upgrade in the future.
I've always heard of oil consumption issues with a 347? Not sure if that's 100% always the case though. Would there be any more costs machine shop wise with the 347 vs 331?
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