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Topic: Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring. (Read 11503 times) previous topic - next topic

Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring.

Reply #30
I posted the diagram to show how the ammeter is wired in the turbo. What you have is a meter with an internal shunt that makes it 1.5 amp meter. It is center justified so it has a .75 amp  swing in either direction. In the car the wire in the harness is an extra external shunt, raising the amp capacity much higher.

The 87 is the only turbo with the 2g alternator. The EVTM shows the keyed power going directly to the I (indicator switch) terminal of the regulator. So I think the reg is safe without any extra load in the circuit.

For the ammeter with 0.1 ohms, with no other load, the current will be 10 times the applied voltage. At 12v it will be 120 amps.

With the amp and voltage info you provided I was able to calculate the resistance of the bulb in your bench test.
Many years ago I measured the voltages at the voltage regulator. With KOEO and the warning light on, the I terminal was 4.49 volts.
With this and assuming(oh no) the bulb in the car to be the same resistance as your bench test, I calculated the regulator resistance to be 11.08916 ohms.
With 12v applied to an 11.08916 ohm load the current draw is 1.08214 amps.
With the ammeter added to the load it will be 1.07247 amps.
So the ammeter should peg-over hard but I don't know if it is enough to damage it.

Well actually I cheated a little and used this OHM'S law calculator: http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms-law-calculator

Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring.

Reply #31
Thanks for all the help again guys so here's an update everything in the car seems to be working perfectly even the tag is its running high but it works I'm confused on the alternator pins I keep getting different colors and different directions I got the gauge the pig hi once but the car didn't stay running I'm running out of options guys thanks for all your help.

Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring.

Reply #32
Thanks for all the help again guys so here's an update everything in the car seems to be working perfectly even the tach is its running high but it works I'm confused on the alternator pins I keep getting different colors and different directions I got the gauge the pig hi once but the car didn't stay running I'm running out of options guys thanks for all your help.

Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring.

Reply #33
Can someone please hold my hand and tell me exactly where the alternator wires need to go on the plug in the back of the instrument cluster or how to jump it and make the alternator go

Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring.

Reply #34
Does the cluster connector still have the turbo harness wires on it?

Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring.

Reply #35
What I am trying to understand is; did the turbo cluster come with a plug attached or are you using one of the basic cluster plugs?

Forget about jumpering anything. I did not know what instructions you were using when I posted that.

Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring.

Reply #36
Does this help?
With the key on and the engine off, the gauge should peg.
When the engine starts, the gauge should go back to the center.

The tach should read double what the RPM actually is. Because the tach is for a 4 cylinder engine.

Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring.

Reply #37
I'm using the base plugs and moving wires where they're supposed to go on the turbo cluster so connect both gray\yellow wires then plug them into #6 on plug

Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring.

Reply #38
Quote from: softtouch;454204
I posted the diagram to show how the ammeter is wired in the turbo. What you have is a meter with an internal shunt that makes it 1.5 amp meter. It is center justified so it has a .75 amp  swing in either direction. In the car the wire in the harness is an extra external shunt, raising the amp capacity much higher.

The 87 is the only turbo with the 2g alternator. The EVTM shows the keyed power going directly to the I (indicator switch) terminal of the regulator. So I think the reg is safe without any extra load in the circuit.

For the ammeter with 0.1 ohms, with no other load, the current will be 10 times the applied voltage. At 12v it will be 120 amps.

With the amp and voltage info you provided I was able to calculate the resistance of the bulb in your bench test.
Many years ago I measured the voltages at the voltage regulator. With KOEO and the warning light on, the I terminal was 4.49 volts.
With this and assuming(oh no) the bulb in the car to be the same resistance as your bench test, I calculated the regulator resistance to be 11.08916 ohms.
With 12v applied to an 11.08916 ohm load the current draw is 1.08214 amps.
With the ammeter added to the load it will be 1.07247 amps.
So the ammeter should peg-over hard but I don't know if it is enough to damage it.

Well actually I cheated a little and used this OHM'S law calculator: http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms-law-calculator

Normal bulb in alt circuit is a #194, 14.4v@.24A... At 14v those will not deflect gage quite half scale(that was first try), I used the 906 to achieve full deflection at 14v... One last comment and I'll leave you guys to figure out the problem, definitely a issue that too many cooks are going to spoil the broth...

The '87 TC 2G does not use the stator(S) circuit loop that's connected with a charge indicator bulb, whether it makes a difference I dunno... I was determined to error on side of caution when I converted my Comet, and it works as intended... 

 

Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring.

Reply #39
Thanks for all the help I'm not an electrician so I don't know much about that stuff. I'm tryn but it doesn't make sense to me . I need help on what to buy or hook up thanks.

Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring.

Reply #40
Quote from: streetracer;454211
I'm using the base plugs and moving wires where they're supposed to go on the turbo cluster so connect both gray\yellow wires then plug them into #6 on plug
The gray/yellow wire that was in the base plug position 11A goes to #6.
The gray/yellow wire that was in base plug position 12A goes to #7

Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring.

Reply #41
I will try it today that will leave me with A light blue and pink striped wire and a ground wire Indy light green and yellow striped in yellow and light green striped wire double left over

Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring.

Reply #42
Quote from: softtouch;454208
Does the cluster connector still have the turbo harness wires on it?

Quote from: softtouch;454209
What I am trying to understand is; did the turbo cluster come with a plug attached or are you using one of the basic cluster plugs?

Forget about jumpering anything. I did not know what instructions you were using when I posted that.

I think we have a failure to communicate. I thought from your responses that the turbo cluster came with no plug or turbo cable harness wires.
Twice in this thread you have mentioned a yellow/Light green wire. I can only find this wire in the turbo cluster harness.
So help me out here.
Quote from: streetracer;454216
I will try it today that will leave me with A light blue and pink striped wire and a ground wire Indy light green and yellow striped in yellow and light green striped wire double left over
In the two basic cluster plugs you could have as many as 9 unused wires. I don't know if any of them are feature related, and don't feel like running them all down.

A light blue/pink in the basic plug B16 is unused.
A light green/yellow in the basic plug B17 is unused.
Ground wire Indy? Don't know what that means. Why do you think it's a ground wire?
Yellow/Light Green. Where is this wire?? Double?? does this mean two of them.

Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring.

Reply #43
I tried it , car dies as soon as the battery is disconnected.  Thank you to everyone trying to help, my number is 360_807_3955 if anyone wants to call me, the local automotive electrician wants 325 dollars to come over and do it.

Hey guys update on instrument cluster wiring.

Reply #44
Stop pulling the battery cable with it running, you'll soon need a computer as well...

Get yourself a meter and incandescent test light(std bulb no LED )... Test for voltage at