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Topic: engine running too cool *solved- installed non failsafe tstat (Read 17329 times) previous topic - next topic

engine running too cool *solved- installed non failsafe tstat

Reply #30
Ehhh idk ;) I'm pretty sure that's exactly what my 20th has. My grandpa marquis has a temp-sensor ACC but it's not an EATC with electric servos moving everything instead of vacuum solenoids and push-button control. THAT car has a switch that I deleted. This switch is mechanical, using a thermostat in the heater hose. The switch routes vacuum and electricity, and does just what you described. Causes floor to not work at all when it fails, which mine did.

I remember the sale thread for Scott's car...my hunch is that it doesn't have EATC which would make it a moot point anyway.
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

engine running too cool *solved- installed non failsafe tstat

Reply #31
Quote from: jcassity;453603
even the radiator is still cold on the bottom half and warm on the top.

Assuming the radiator is doing it's job it should be cool, especially in colder weather... In winter likely could cool most engines with ¼ amount of radiator that's in most cars...

Cover the upper half with cardboard, the lower half will warm up... Not going to help your heat though...

engine running too cool *solved- installed non failsafe tstat

Reply #32
yeah I has EATC,, that sensor "T" is not installed inline with the supply at all, its laid off to the side as the previous owner must have found it practical to omit.
 it has all things std 20th anny issue except sunroof.

new tstat, heater core, water pump, radiator , new hoses from off an on troubleshooting or simple preventative maint I do.

it has to  be up in the duct work.

if you reach to the far right on my EATC duct work down low to the right of the blower, there is a door,  is fully closed when I call for heat. 
I need to study up or understand if there is another blend door internally or what.

engine running too cool *solved- installed non failsafe tstat

Reply #33
Come to think of it, my Bird never seems to build up pressure in the radiator and I can take the radiator cap off at any point and it doesn't spray out. I'll be doing a compression test on mine eventually to see if there's some kind of leak or something in the system.
"I put my foot in my tank and I began to roll." Chuck Berry

engine running too cool *solved- installed non failsafe tstat

Reply #34
Quote from: Chris1987LX;453632
Come to think of it, my Bird never seems to build up pressure in the radiator and I can take the radiator cap off at any point and it doesn't spray out. I'll be doing a compression test on mine eventually to see if there's some kind of leak or something in the system.

If you have no pressure it's leaking out somewhere. Probably not a head gasket as it would be loosing coolant and/or over-pressurize the cooling system. It's more than likely bleeding pressure from a bad radiator cap seal or a minor leak somewhere in the cooling system.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

engine running too cool *solved- installed non failsafe tstat

Reply #35
holly ,, there's Chris!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  good to see you back !~!

engine running too cool *solved- installed non failsafe tstat

Reply #36
did some laser readings.

mounted a cheapy dial thermometer in front of the vent to the left of the clock to monitor heat delivery.

190deg at tstat kneck
170deg at heater core input
150 at return of heater core

supply vent temps sitting still- thermometer said 120 deg while on  med blower speed.

Blower housing was reading 69*,, outside air was prob like 55 to 60ish

when I drive the vent temp drops to 104 to 106.
when I select high heat and drive, the thermometer said 90 and was still dropping !!.

engine running too cool *solved- installed non failsafe tstat

Reply #37
question,,
when one selects heat,, where does the blower motor get its input air?

engine running too cool *solved- installed non failsafe tstat

Reply #38
Quote from: TurboCoupe50;453616
Assuming the radiator is doing it's job it should be cool, especially in colder weather... In winter likely could cool most engines with ¼ amount of radiator that's in most cars...

Cover the upper half with cardboard, the lower half will warm up... Not going to help your heat though...


tom, been running cardboard on the upper half for a lot of road miles and the upper half gets a tad hotter and I don't feel a difference on the lower.

engine running too cool *solved- installed non failsafe tstat

Reply #39
Quote from: jcassity;453642
question,,
when one selects heat,, where does the blower motor get its input air?

Should be in the EVTM... I know I've seen diagram somewhere...

engine running too cool *solved- installed non failsafe tstat

Reply #40
Quote from: jcassity;453641
when I select high heat and drive, the thermometer said 90 and was still dropping !!.

You either have outside air bypassing the heater core, poor coolant flow through core or maybe it's partially clogged... If it's not a duct/routing problem through heater plenum, the core is partially plugged... I don't think you should be getting the amount of temp differential on inlet and outlet heater hoses, core may have a restriction... Speaking of restrictions there is often one in the core inlet...

 
Heaters can be funny, bout a 100 years a go I had a '64 Galaxie with 289 that would freeze you to death in winter... I tried two new 180* T-stats with no help(at that time I was yet to see a 195* stat)... I used to run heater on low to get any heat at all... Well a buddy blew up the 289 in his '65 Comet and upon taking it apart I noticed it had a 195 stat... I figured what the Hell and stuck it in my car, had plenty of heat... Next spring I swapped engines and inst a 390 that had a 180 stat, thinking I'd need to put a 195 in it next fall to have good heat(back then big & small block T-stats were different)... Surprise the 180 gave plenty of heat in the bigger engine, never swapped it in the time I had the car, something like five years...

engine running too cool *solved- installed non failsafe tstat

Reply #41
Quote from: TurboCoupe50;453646
Speaking of restrictions there is often one in the core inlet...

I believe he said in a prior post he put a small socket in a heater hose....
'84 Mustang
'98 Explorer 5.0
'03 Focus, dropped a valve seat. yay. freakin' split port engines...
'06 Explorer EB 4.6

engine running too cool *solved- installed non failsafe tstat

Reply #42
I've got a 180* thermostat in my Thunderbird. When I drive it in April or October and outside temperatures are in the 40*-50* range it makes good heat. I do have the factory restrictor in the heater core line as well. I'm not sure how well it would run in cold weather (I never drive the Thunderbird between November 1st to March 31st when it's really cold) but when it's in the 50's or below temperature wise the car barely runs above 180*....

I do drive my Mark VII when it's cold out (i.e. below freezing) and it has a 195* thermostat. It has no trouble producing heat in those temperatures.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

engine running too cool *solved- installed non failsafe tstat

Reply #43
Quote from: ThunderbirdSport302;453649
I believe he said in a prior post he put a small socket in a heater hose....

yeah,, I have a small socket in the inlet hose which has a 3/8'' drive opening.

engine running too cool *solved- installed non failsafe tstat

Reply #44
the blower box temp being so low is bothering me.

I would think that if you call for max heat, that the blend doors would use the inside cabin air to push through the core and out the vents.

oddly enough I have the white coug torn apart and never have noticed the path taken if outside air is selected.  for some reason im thinking its way up high above the EEC somewhere

I must have missed that day in school about the radiator though tom,, I was sure that the rad would get hot evenly no matter what the normal temp ranges were outside.