My parking brake cable rusted out on my 88 Cougar. I found a new replacement cable, but wondering how you get the new cable installed without completely drilling out the pulley that is mounted on the post under the car.
The barrel shaped terminator at the end of the cable won't fit thru the narrow slot to go around the pulley.
What have others done with this, do you have to drill out the large rivets to allow opening the whole thing to get the cable in, if so what do you replace the rivets with?
I could cut off the terminating cable barrel, but seems a shame to mess up the new cable, and what to replace the cut-off barrel with if it is cut-off?
I was never good at puzzles, what am I missing....?
The odometer can be set to any number you want, just like a mechanical odometer can! The odometer is constructed using Motorola liquid crystal display drivers, a 4 MHz Motorola MC6805 CPU, and an NCR nonvolatile memory chip. It counts pulses from the speedo gear located in the transmission, and stores the equivalent mileage into the memory about every 10 miles, or when the ignition switch is turned off.
Need to exchange mileage between two digital odometer clusters?
- You need to disassemble the cluster and desolder and swap IC3 from the speedo/odometer module
Need to change mileage numbers or reset to zero after an engine rebuild? Talk to a speedometer shop, or figure out how the odometer works based on Ford's publicly available patents!
I read a lot of debate on the web about using lug centric wheels on hubcentric cars, but concluded that most troubles were from improper torquing etc. Even the instuctions tell you to check the lug nut torque often.
But after finding two studs out of 4 sheared off on my car, I've concluded I don't have the mustard to check the torque on these lugcentric wheels as much as they must need checking.
I only used these as opposed to Mustang wheels to get a better offset for my rear wheels from the rear end swap.
Belows the pic of the damage, as well as a view of the hub ring that has to be used with these wheels.
Anyone else have opinions on these one wheel fits all aftermarket lugcentric wheels?
I wanted to put 99 Mustang leather seats into the 88 Cougar. I know you could just swap the tracks, but I never do things the easy way. The original intent was I wanted to keep the clean & new Mustang seat belts that came with the seat, as well as the seat controls on the seat.
I made these track converters from 3/16 steel from home depot, so now bolts matching the 99+ Mustang tracks stick up out of the carpet.
Here is the view of the floorboard with the adapter pieces on the Cougar studs. Also discovered that electrical connector in the Cougar that goes to the console harness actually matches the Mustang power seat connector, so it was easy to get the Mustang seat controls running on the front of the seat. Now just need to figure out what to do with the window and mirror controls. :hick:
The front seat track adapter takes some cutting and pounding work due to the angles.
Its nice to know someone who welds. I had them weld the studs so they won't spin when they are upside down and under the rug.
The seat belt situation was more problems. :mad: The 99 Mustang seat belt roller assembly expects to be on the floor instead of the pillar (the belt won't give when its mounted to the pillar), so I ended up getting aftermarket seat belts that seem to work well.
Still some more stuff to do, but I like the look of the leather seats compared to the mold covered (literally) seats that were in the car.
It happened again, a car job that should take a few hours has turned into a multi hour Man Vs Bolt job.
I've got a lot of work to do on the Cougar, so of course by Murphy's law, my daily driver Merc Sable water pump had to go bad.
Job went well until tightening the last bolt on the new water pump broke off. A six hour job now has gone on 12, I removed the timing cover, and there is about an inch of bolt still sticking out of the block.
Tried: 1) Vice gripping it out, no luck 2) A drill and a screw remover bit, which then broke in the bolt. I have NEVER had luck with these screw removers 3) Its been soaking in a mix of WD-40 and 3in1 general oil
I'm thinking of 3) dremel cutting flats on the bolt stud and then trying to wrench it.
[SIZE="4"]Before I do any more damage, whats anyone's experience in the way to get a broke bolt out?[/SIZE]
Keep in mind this is from an MP3 ignorant guy , I spent some of the holiday getting up to speed on the MP3 stuff out there(just recently went broadband), although I don't have an MP3 player other than the PC.
Just checked out Napster and was surprised how you could download a lot of the latest commercial CD's tracks.... There are a lot of other MP3 sites, but they seem to be in Russia and while the tracks are like only $0.10 I don't feel like its a good idea giving a credit card over beyond the iron curtain.:nono:
I've got 7 days to cancel the trial, and was wondering what anyone else uses for this stuff....
I had set the TV cable pretty tight (I heard it was better to have it tight than loose), and shifts were harsh... Teeth rattling enough that now I noticed the transmission has a slight leak at the rear of the tail housing where the driveshaft enters.
I reset the TV cable and now shifts are smooth, but now what has to be done to fix the rear leak? I'm guessing the real rough shifts spread out the rear seal?
Is a special tool needed to replace the seal? Is it better to just have a tranny shop do it?
Its always something.. The drivers side door lock froze - even a key wouldn't turn it. Had to get in from the passenger side.
It ended up being the power door lock motor in the door froze up. I pulled the motor and sprayed WD40 in it. After much soaking, it moves again, but still gets stuck and is inconsistent in pulling the lock up or down. I think it rusted up on the inside.
This one for Crown Vic looks a lot like it, anyone know if it will work?, Any cheaper alternatives?
Time for the next phase of my project & fix up the rust spots.
This welder fell into my house. I have to start reading up on welding, but is this one any good? It really doesn't say what kind it is. I can only use stuff that runs on 110V as I have no 220V outlets, and this one meets that need.
This mini movie some corny parts, but I liked this very illustrative movie about how (and why) the rear end differential gears work. (If you can get past the opening scenes)
Especially interesting after tearing open my gear case for the first time!
I thought I heard about people replacing the 5V regulator ( the metal can on the back of the cluster PC board) with a commercial 5V regulator... I thought the reason was is that this regulator misbehaves and causes the fuel and temperature gauge to simultaneously drift around on occasion. I'm thinking this is a bad idea , because...
I have measured two clusters, including the one that I had in the car which was working and it looks like these things put out voltage pulses, not as constant DC. :hick:
It seems to make sense too, as the fuel sensor (for buttstuffog gauge) is 12-83 ohms or so, which means if it was a constant 5V you are putting nearly 5V/12ohms, or 0.4 Amps into the gas tank just to read the fuel sensor. That does not sound right to drain so much current just for a fuel tank measurment...
The buttstuffog fuel gauge is very slow moving, so you don't see it bouncing with the voltage pulses, instead it just averages the pulses, thereby saving the battery a wasteful 0.5 Amp draw, as the average current will be much lower.
I only put this out there because I finally had to replace my leaking fuel sensor sender (along with tank, pump while I was at it), and had to put in the sender meant for a digital cluster (as the buttstuffog one isn't available, see http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=2283 ), and was thinking about ways to make a conversion circuit to make the buttstuffog gauge read correctly again..
While I did torque the ball joint nut that came with the Ford M-3075-D control arm, I discovered today the nut came off somewhere. :hick: Probably should have retorqued after the first 100 miles...
I didn't like the nut that came with this new arm in the first place, instead of the metal pin to make sure the nut could never fall off, the new nut has some plastic in it. I guess the theory is the plastic crushes and keeps the nut captive?
Well, it didn't work for me. and the nut from the old arm has different threads.
Has anybody found a better nut (with the cotter pin) to replace the nut that comes with the arms? Does any nut from 94-00 Mustangs work on this M-3075D Ford Racing Control Arm?
I have a 8.8" Rear End from a 88 TurboCoupe and want to put it in my 88 Cougar which has a 7.5". I want to keep my rear drum brakes, and accoding to the 8.8 TurboCoupe paragraph on Cool Cats it can be done by swapping the 7.5" axle into the 8.8" rear.
Has anyone ever really done this before? I have two problems:
1) The 7.5" Axle does not go in enough leaving a much larger gap for the drum brake shell plate from where the wheel stud plate is.
2) There is a bracket that has to be cut for the rear drum plate to sit flush against the mount. Hate to do this because maybe I will do rear disks some day...
" WARNING: This part has been designed and is intended for off-highway application only. Installation on a vehicle intended for use on public roads may violate US, Canadian, state, provincial laws and regulations.. related to safety and emissions..."
1) I would have thought the fuel pressure regulator maintains the amount of fuel to the engine and it wouldn't cause any emissions change just by having increased flow rate.
2) Since the stock (for 5.0 HO) is 88 lph, is there really much safety issue between 88 lph and 190 lph?, I mean if a hose gets cut that gas is going to be shooting out with either pump.
The HO conversion seemed to run fine off the 3.8L pump, I'm thinking maybe this high volume isn't such a good idea for some reason after seeing that warning!
The original intent was I wanted to keep the clean & new Mustang seat belts that came with the seat, as well as the seat controls on the seat.
, because...
