Enter one 1987, solid, clean, base V6 car
Add one minor traffic incident,
And the result is my newest project. I was trying to sell this car for my Dad so I wouldn't buy it myself as I already have too many irons in the fire, but the buy-back from the insurance company was too good to pass up. :evilgrin:
I am gonna be sitting on this one for a bit while I continue another build, so this is primarily an intro thread to show she's not headed to the crusher.
I am honing my ideas and beginning the info/parts gathering stage. Stay tuned, there are big things ahead! :birdsmily:
I always did like the Bluebird. Shame that the 8-holes are only 14", they look sharp as a new razor on that car..
Good luck with your project...what blue is that? Looks lighter than Mark's 86 tbird...
Travis
I was wondering about the rims you have on the white TB. I really like those! It would be nice to find them in a 4 lug. Your Bluebird looks like a real clean project, you can't miss on a deal like that!
I always thought it would be cool to clone the 14" 8 holes into a 17" wheel. Looks like a clean ride!
Paint code is 33, Light Regatta Blue.
Wheels on the TC are 90's JDM 3pc Desmonds with custom outer halves to create the offsets I wanted. They will be transferred to the blue car when the suspension is swapped over.
Can't go wrong with that. If I remember correctly you are skipping power tour this year? Maybe I can check out the blue car next year if the tour comes closer to home!
No Tour this year for me :disappoin We will see how long it takes them to bring the route back close again!
You are not that far from me. If you're ever around Indy let me know, you can check the car out anytime.
I was actually going to Indy a year or two ago and saw your car parked at a parts store or something (can't remember where now). I almost stopped to chat but didn't want to come across as an Internet stalker, lol.
Are you swapping the TC nose/bumper and interior into the blue car?
If you were coming up thru Mooresville on 67, that would be the Advance I work at part time. Shoulda stopped, I actually get quite a few people who do stop just to check it out when its sittin in the lot.
The interior is considerably nicer, and more complete, on the blue car. I am thinking about having my Saleen seats redone in blue to match; they need recovered anyhow.
It will get a TC bumper cover, but not the header panel.
Chris , I wouldn't mind seeing both of your birds down at Greg's shop in July. :burnout:
Yep, that Advance is exactly where I saw the TC parked.
Look forward to seeing the progress on this one!
It has
only been three years.... The blue car has been stored, started and moved periodically, but remains untouched thus far. The needs of my RaceTruck project have grown to include the engine from my TC and thus one must become lesser for the others to become greater
Although the motivation to take the TC off the road was to transplant the engine to the RaceTruck, it also means the suspension parts(tubular Kmember, coilovers, IRS, etc.) are now just taking up space under the car. This may or may not foreshadow the beginning of a move toward those parts taking residence under the blue car. Please continue to hold, someone will be with you shortly... :slap:
2.3 Ecoboost?
I am pretty set on keeping the blue car a 6cyl
Boost...its what's for dinner.
Color me motivated. I have made and changed plans, wrapped up a few projects, moved some stuff around to make space, and finally taken the one big step that needed done to kick this into gear. I moved the BlueBird from storage into my shop.
It moved under its own power even. Running out of fuel and a stuck RF brake, but it did it!
Shawn got a TC, Claude pulled his Cougar out of the field, Greg put a motor back in his car and went to a race; I gotta get in on this action!
Ah yeah!
I might have some clear headlights for that.
There is a real nice pair in the trunk I pulled off the TC before it left, but thanks!
Woot!
So is it my fault this time?
I suppose if you want to own it ;)
I blame myself. I was covered up with projects and took this in anyhow. Seeing it sit while I tried to create the perfect situation to get started actually made the lack of motivation worse. I added a temporary roadblock with another short term project, right at a point where I was almost ready, partially because I was overwhelmed with the scope this car had grown to include.
Thankfully for my own sanity I was able to keep that short term project short, and it is ready to move down the road. Realizing it was not a long term keeper helped lift my motivation to get busy on this car which is a known quantity on keeper status. Seeing you other guys getting back into your own cars has certainly added fuel to the fire.
Now it is Chuck's turn! Time to take a Volvo break, and wrap up the side Ranger, so you can get back to your Tbird too.
These showed up today. Added to the pile of bits I have been squirreling away. Thanks Mark!
What's going to end up replacing the 3.8?
That will depend on how many times I change my mind between now and whenever I complete a motor swap. :hick:
Currently stage1 consists of 5spds, 5lugs, and SFCs. We will go from there
Put an LS in it..
Kidding!
But a Coyote would be just neater'n hell propped up, with a shovel full of snow thrown under it for good measure.
Even the new 2.3 Ecobooster, but, it's easy to mentally spend others' money.
I'm scrounging to find a solid, running 460 for my '84.
You turd bucket. You were supposed to get me a set too!
I thought I was only supposed to grab 2 sets if they were sn95 and needed modded, my fault. :toilet:
I knew that was coming. ;)
Trust me, I'm trying to.
The Ranger isn't a "side" project, just getting it sorted for winter duty (I now need to replace the PS front spring bracket :p)
The 850 needs a couple PM things to get it through the next few months. Sadie's engine swap took up a bit of time too this season.
I'd really like to wrap up the 240 T5 swap before the weather turns sour (Seeing as it lives in a copuppies all winter).
The garage is much better organized, but I'm still working on that too. At least the TBird has a heated house, so that should help with getting more done this winter.
It's all good. I'm probably going to use a fox booster to simplify things anyways.
Was the engine plan for this still what we discussed? I couldn't remember if that was for this car, white car, or something else.
Yup, still accurate at this time. I have decided to keep this a running and driving project as much as possible. I roughed out multiple stages that should facilitate big upgrades in the winter and smaller tweaks during the driving seasons. Stages are somewhat modular and timeline will depend on several factors; I just need to stick to the plan and do work!
Duratec!
I spent a bunch of time today organizing and cleaning my shop. There were piles of Fiat parts all over the floor which needed moved to my parts dept. and Tbird parts that needed moved in. Having only finished the inside of my building last winter and being busy all summer, I still lack shelving, benches, and cabinets that make a shop function well. I knocked together another set of shelves, raided my parts stash, and got all this moved in and put away.
Are those that sick-ass set of wheels you had on your TC?
One and the same. They are gonna look bitchin on this blue :evilgrin:
Are you going to change out the stock rear control arms while you're swapping the rear axle?
No. The main goal for this round of suspension work is to get the car back on the road and somewhat presentable. The right front brake caliper is locked up and I refused to replace it with another Fox caliper when I knew I wanted 5lugs to hang my wheels on. Similar situation with rear arms; I know they will get upgraded down the road and I do not want to be double purchasing a bunch of parts. When I get into the major suspension redo, I will handle control arms at all corners.
5lugs, springs, and bars for now. I will probably toss the 15:1 steering rack on while everything is apart and regear the sn95 7.5 because I have all the stuff here to do so.
Ah. Makes sense. I thought you were swapping in a 8.8 at this point. Are you eventually going IRS? I thought your white car had the IRS setup out of a 03-04 Cobra.
No IRS this time. I decided my modded IRS was overkill for the intended do-all street car purpose.
It will resurface under a Coyote/6spd Zephyr project I am consulting on.
Louis is now disappointed that he couldn't suggest you buy Maximum Motorsports control arms.
Was actually going to suggest a Maximum Motorsports panhard bar, because I want someone to buy one and install it before I buy one. That way if it doesn't fit well I'm not out the money :hick:.
Got pictures of that project? It sounds cool.
There was someone on another facebook group that had one installed. I can't remember who. Probably the group I got banned from.
Knowing gumby, he will probably make something anyways.
So someone did add one? Did it have tail pipes and the stock gas tank? The way the bar mounts it seems like 2.5" tail pipes won't fit around it with the stock 22 gallon fuel tank in place.
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?39131-Panhard-bar-for-1988-Sport
There are a couple of guys with TC's over on NATO that have them installed and I have PM'd them to get the details. I will post back up when and if they reply.
If you really wanna get intimate with the scars of your car, don't bother grabbing a hose. A bottle of your favorite quick detailer and a few microfiber rags will give you the opportunity to sympathize with each nick, scratch, gouge, and blemish. I am continually amazed at how nice this car is at 140K miles and 31yo. It is far from perfect and has had some previous issues, and eventually could stand to be repainted, but it must have had a series of owners who really tried to keep it nice.
Unfortunately, it refuses to run! This car has been started, idled, and moved around 1-2 times per year each year I had it stored. Never an issue.
I thought it was just an empty fuel tank, but 5gal of fresh fuel did not bring it around. I didn't have a fuel pressure tester, so even though that was my gut feeling, I began poking around other places. No codes KOEO. I found that it would idle and free rev in limp mode with the ECT and IAT unplugged. Plug in either and it instantly stalls out. Inspected some wiring, fearing I may have had rodent intruders, but have found no signs of inhabitation. I disconnected the ECU so I could test the sensor wiring, and I swear I must be the first person to ever be in here
All things checked out in the wiring dept, and my tech line supervisor was as perplexed as I was. I decided I better nail down some hard numbers on a few basics before bringing my issues to the forum. I picked up a rental fuel pressure tester and found zero psi build during the 2sec prime. How the car ever started at all, I don't understand, but once running again(still with ECT and IAT disconnected) the gauge showed only 5psi. I threw a filter at it, but it dropped that Hail Mary pass. Looks like I am dropping the tank soon.
While dropping the tank I found another little indicator of how well kept this car has been
I also found the culprit of my non-running issue
So, now that it lives again, let us begin!
Who wants a decent set of 8holes?
Easy fix on the no fuel pressure!
I think I have 3, maybe 4 sets of the 14" wheels. They look good, but they're so small.
I'm gonna pick the best 4 out, and s the rest. I've got a bunch of old metal and a Mustang body, just need s to go up. No hurry, it's all out in the barn(s), out of sight, but not out of mind.
If I could just find myself a straight and rust free '87-8 Thunderbird...I'm on medical leave for awhile, and am already bored shiznitless. Got a '94 Flareside to tinker with, but it needs some stuff that honestly I'd rather cheap on rather than put good stuff in/on, as it's gonna be a farm truck and not something to drive on the road.
I don't think I've ever seen a 'Bird that color. It's sharp. :)
Hose holes suck :hick:
This car looks great. I love the 8 hole wheels. I wish I still had mine. I got rid of them for TC wheels.
Per my post #47, no response from the two guys over on NATO so I checked their activity and both have not been active for about two years so those are gonna be dead ends.
So I posted up on http://www.foureyedpride.com and not much there either so I went with probably what should have been done in the first place...I emailed Maximum Motorsports. I was hoping Jack Hidley would respond and sure enough that is who got back with me. Below is the response I got from Jack and I did edit it in that I removed my email address for spamming purposes:
[COLOR="#0000FF"]Maximum Motorsports Tech tech@maximummotorsports.com
To me@email.com Dec 3 at 4:07 PM
Yes, it will bolt into the chassis.
The only problem we are aware of is clearance to the fuel tank with the tailpipes. Some of the Thunderbirds have larger fuel tanks than Fox Mustangs. These have a different shape in the front. They may require the tailpipes to be modified to fit.
Note that the forward RLCA mounting points on the chassis are 1.75" lower down than on a Fox Mustang. If you want decent levels of antisquat, these must be moved up when the car is lowered.
Sincerely,
Jack Hidley
Maximum Motorsports Tech Support
http://www.maximummotorsports.com[/COLOR]
[COLOR="#FF0000"]-----Original Message-----
From: Maximum Motorsports Sales
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2018 12:35 PM
To: Maximum Motorsports Tech
Subject: Contact Form response
Dept: Tech Department
Name: Me
Email: me@email.com
Message:
Will the panhard bar for the Fox Mustang work on a 83-88 Thunderbird? I was looking for chassis info just to see if it would physically install but cannot find two drawings with the same info to make the comparisons.[/COLOR]
So it will work but the tail pipes and fuel tank most likely will be an issue. Jack's comment on the rear lower control arm (RLCA) forward mounting location has not been an issue on my '83 Bird as it is lowered but I also have MM rear coil overs with Koni SA's, Griggs LCA's, and Global West adjustable UCA's. That is not saying that on a road coarse one would not notice this or otherwise Jack would not have mentioned it.
Sorry for the partial hijack but wanted to follow through with the whole panhard bar thing.
While digging through old threads I found a post from Jack himself on this forum. The post was from 2008 or so and he said in that post it would fit but raised the same concerns as your email.
i don’t know that I have ever read the control arm mounting changes he mentioned.
I think there are several that have searched and not found that thread. Could you either post back with a link or edit your response above to include it for future reference?
I’ll take a look, I knew at the time I should’ve saved the link.
Maybe this one?
https://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?39131-Panhard-bar-for-1988-Sport
Thats the one, I guess I really had the year wrong.
Oh good grief...shows you how much I remember with regards to panhard bars on these cars (though I will not forget now) and how far read down in that old thread. Horse beaten and thanks for linking all that together...
Thanks for the research. I'm guessing that it'll be "interesting" for those of us with 2.5" dual exhaust to mount the MM panhard bar in our cars.
Who wants to be the Guinea pig and try installing one on a Fox Thunderbird/Cougar? Please post pictures and instructions :hick:.
Its probably going to be you as I imagine Gumby will build his own pan hard bar if he uses one.
I'm intending on using the MM PHB, but I plan on running a 3" dump, so it won't help you much.
crafty people making their own parts :hick:
When you get it mounted could you measure the space between the bar and the fuel tank? I might be able to use that to figure out if it would fit well on my car.
OK, so I was leveraged into moving the car over Thanksgiving. Too many people in my house for the holiday meant some decided to camp out in my building. I needed floor space and the newly running Tbird was the simplest to move. Then a side job showed up....
Got that all done and back to its owner, then brought the Tbird back in. Tonight I got it back up on jackstands and did a thing
Holy shiznit...what size is that rubber on the S10?
I have garage floor envy, hahaha..
315 square on the s10. It wants to be like my truck when it grows up
Got a bunch of parts off the car, and a few back on.
CC plates are modded Mustang parts carried over from the white car. The springs are from a '00 CobraR
Put the car on the ground to do an initial check of the front ride height. These struts are waaaaay under damped for this much spring; not a real surprise and now added to my upcoming parts order.
That'll do Donkey, that'll do.
It’s awesome, you have a way with setting the stance on a car!
Onto the rear! Pulled the sn95 7.5 out of the corner, swapped in a 3.45 gear set and maintenanced the brakes.
Then pull the stock 7.5
No stuck bolts, no broken brake lines, factory thread lock on the d/s bolts. Pretty neat stuff.
Hopefully I can get back in the shop tomorrow, get the sn95 rear under the car and set the rear ride height.
First shot off the stands
Not bad! But it does look a bit like I have commitment issues. I mean, am I lowering this car, or not??
Another 1/4 coil off the rear TC springs, 1.5 coils total.
Much better :evilgrin:
Up next brakes, and alignment. I pulled the stock MC and made a list of fittings needed to swap the 15/16" sn95 Cobra MC I still have from the white car.
Konis and T5 clutch parts are on the way.
Looking pretty good!
Looking good. Still have the stock rear control arms?
That's a great looking car. I want another Bird.
Christ. I should have gone back and reread :hick:
A couple package deliveries later, I have more parts on the car
Front Konis
Cutting and flaring lines in the engine bay sucks while the engine is still installed...
I also made up a couple brackets for the rear flex hoses at the calipers
Here they are installed, and you see the rear Konis too
I kept the right axle tube mounted chassis hose and reused the axle hard lines from the original 7.5
The new brackets hold the connection between the new caliper flex hoses and the shortened hard lines.
It's pretty tedious bleeding brakes solo when you forget the racecar bleeder bottles at work, but I got it done enough to take a short test drive from the flat stall onto the lift.
I'm going to need to do that too.
Progress looks good!
What engine is in this thing?
Cfi 3.8
I had a kinda lazy week. I had a few hours that I should have spent in the shop, which were wasted away watching live timing from The Chili Bowl.... I did get out there last night while we didn't have any drivers competing and started easing my way into this T5 swap.
87 CFI 3.8 as stated above. So far I have collected:
- sn95 T5 and v6 bellhousing
- '83 F100 3.8 flywheel(same part number as 5.8L) 164T, 28oz
- '83 F100 10" clutch
- '96 F150 5.8L manual trans starter
- Fox pedals
- Clutch cable
- Hurst shifter
All my research, mostly here on FTBCF, says this should be the correct combination of parts to complete the mission. We are going to find out together!
First things first, I gotta get rid of that green speedo drive gear
With any decent rear gear ratio, and my 275/40-17 tires, the green(8T) drive gear requires a 21 or even 23T driven gear. 23T driven gears are notorious for self destructing and should be generally avoided if at all possible. Thankfully, my junk pile contains various remnants of T5. Notable here is that the turbo 4cyl T5 received a black(6T) speedo drive gear while most 5.0 and n/a 2.3 T5's got a yellow(7T) gear.
It just so happens that the majority of my junk pile is 2.3T leftovers :hick:
With that done, I turned attention to the rest of the sn95 T5. Now normally, I am the guy your mother warned you about, and I will toss an unknown jy T5 in a car just to find out if it is any good. They are simple enough to swap, and if they are good to go as is, I don't ever really need to open the case....ever.
Even I have my limits, however....three different colors of RTV is too many! I had to open it up and double check things since it was on the bench and I already had the tailshaft housing off. I found a broken bolt in the top cover, and as expected, the red RTV wasn't under the top cover at all, just smeared on the outside attempting to stop whatever leak was present from the lack of clamping force on the one corner.
Guts look good. Pads on the shift forks even look great. Drilled out the broken bolt and retapped the hole. I cleaned all the mating surfaces and then realized I was out of black RTV.
Then my keg ran out of beer! I called it a night and shut everything down.
My mother always did warm me about guys like you.
Ugh, what a fight. No tool access, corrosion, stock junk in the way that I had forgotten about because it has been so long since I had a stock Tbird(and never a column shift car before).
But I won
These are the worst.
Are you reusing that for now?
Quick question,
did you need the floor shift style steering column panels ?
I don't believe the left converter would clear the clutch fork, and I don't plan to find out.
I think I forgot a double hump trans crossmember in the white car when it left, so I need to replace that to keep the new y-pipe tucked up nice and tight.
I have column plastic here from my TC, thanks!
I didn't figure you planned on putting that lump back in, but I wasn't sure.
Busy weekend not working on the car, but I got the trans out tonight
I don't recall anybody else complaining about it. Maybe they already deleted the baby cats. Does the SN95's longer bellhousing make the interference worse?
Either way, plz reinstall to check for me when I do this in 2050. :) After you do it a few times it's not that bad!
The clocking for the clutch for the clutch arm is at 9 o'clock on a fix, and more like 7 o'clock on the sn-95 bell housing. Mine was okay till I ate the motor mounts behind my v-8. I ended up taking the heat shield off to make sure it didn't rub, but I never had an issue.
For all my scope creep enablers
Tempted to just cap the lower pipe, I convinced myself to "do it right" and remove the system entirely. What a hassle. Could likely do it again in about 30mins now that I know where to cut....
Oh, and since I am messing around with the FEAD on a 3.8 I have no intent to keep, why not clear out room for an e-fan? So much space for activities now!
The tedium continues. There were a handful of things that needed addressed before I can start test fitting T5 bits.
With the thermactor pump and lines out of the way, I measured, purchased, and installed a shorter belt. I also got the e-fan mounted.
Controller is fixed to the shroud, I will finish the wiring later.
Then, back under the car to handle a couple broken manifold studs where the y-pipe attaches. I really, really didn't want to pull the manifolds....
Weld a nut onto the busted stud, alternate heat and PBlaster, and pray. I snapped each side another time, then the second attempt on the left manifold was successful.
The right manifold stud snapped off three more times, with the final break flush at the . It got drilled thru. :mad:
Tedium is right...Geez.
At least they're out now.
I remember hours and hours of labor for tiny little jobs that in the end, I could've swapped an engine faster.
You already know how I would have fixed those manifolds...
Awesome work man! I'm really digging that blue!
Let's try a little forward progress.
Also grabbed this money shot for Jeremy. No Beuno. :punchballs:
(https://i1.wp.com/wpshout.com/wp-content/plugins/wpshout-plugin-extension-demo/carl_sagan_mind_blown.gif) the
30 seconds with a grinder...
The lower corner of the fork is fouled heavily against the crossover pipe. In the pic it is pushed forward almost to the front of the opening and cannot travel back. I am sure someone could make it work if they were determined enough. A fox bell would probably be better if a guy wanted to keep the stock y-pipe.
As for me, I don't want the crossover under the bellhousing at all as I don't want the exhaust to be the lowest point under the car. I have a box of 2.25" mandrel bends and will be building a new y-pipe with the crossover under the tailshaft where it belongs.
Contemplating any sort of cats or small bullet lers in place of the cats to knock some of the rasp down?
No. The new y-pipe will be plugged into the OE replacement 2" ler and tail pipe. I don't antite much change in tone or volume.
I made holes in the fresh tunnel metal last night. Never getting that back!
Many, many thanks to Muttwood for sending a magnificent pair of blue a-pillar trim pieces!
Oddly the rest of the interior is fine, only these two pieces had faded out.
Solar flair ?
May have been a poor dye lot ?
Either way, glad I could help.
I guess you wont be trying the SEM dye now. Shucks.
My driver's side kick panel in the '84 did the same thing:
(https://www.coolcats.net/ximages/kickpanel_before.jpg)
You can tell it was topical because of where the sill plate covered it up, on the lower left there. The back of the panel was solid blue. It almost felt like a coating...was the strangest thing. I have never run across that before, at least not on a panel that never receives direct sunlight.
Fortunately it sanded and painted up very nicely:
(https://www.coolcats.net/ximages/kickpanel_after.jpg)
This was PPG interior lacquer mixed up at a paint shop, and sprayed through a touch-up gun. Color match was dead perfect.
That kick panel is crazy. Backsides of my trim are perfect blue too; definitely UV exposure. I have heard blue was the worst for fading in these cars.
It is possible a past owner of your car routnely parked in such a way that the kick panel recieved a reflected blast of sunshine on a regular basis. I know my car was garage kept, but my Dad would put one of those reflective windshield screens up while it was parked outside at work. Pretty sure that is what got to my pillar trims.
I will replace/rehab pillar trim all day long vs the alternative. That screen probably played the biggest part in preserving my dash as well.
I've actually yet to see any car with that interior sun fade issue in person. Was it just a blue issue?
*edit. How about that; a pic uploaded from my phone!!
Cue ball? Should use a number 6 pool ball for a shift .
This is an old school Fat s. A quick google says they don't exist anymore.
The #6 billard ball is an interesting thought 🤔
You can actually buy billiard balls individually. So get a #6 ball, drill a hole, thread an insert in, vola a shift no one else has.
Pedal swap day!
Magic disappearing column shifter
Behold my three pedals and see that there are three
I also got the d/s shortend 1" today and stuffed that in.
Pool balls tend to crack when drilled......
Don't ask how I know :-0
Job 1, Gumby.
Job 1.
:toothless:
I have been mildly sidetracked messing with some new to me shop equipment. I brought home a 48x48 welding table, and a 60gal air compressor. I did the welding of the seat back frame on the new table. I reassembled and installed the seat only to discover that the pedals I had put in were too close together. My foot would catch the brake pedal when actuating the clutch. PO of these pedals swapped an auto brake pedal in. I didn't catch that! I cut off the left edge of the auto pedal and installed the clutch pad on the brake pedal. I will grab another clutch pedal pad soon, but for now I trimmed the brake pedal pad to fit the clutch pedal and my feet fit as intended.
I got to put the new air compressor to work today when I found out that register hole in my stock block plate was too small for the F150 PMGR starter! This frustrated me a bit because it was the only thing I didn't test fit on the bench, and I am not sure why I overlooked it. But all is well that ends well I suppose, some work with a drum sander on an angle grinder was enough to open the hole up allowing the starter to sit flush on the block plate. I turned attention to the wiring changes required for the PMGR starter, got that done and began looking for reasons not to start the car. Mental checklist of possible negative consequences eliminated, I hooked up the battery. No smoke.... Hopped in the driver's seat, pushed in the clutch, turned the key to see the dash light up and listen to the fuel pump, then hit the start circuit.....nothing :nonchalance: D'oh, this car doesn't know the clutch is depressed! Hop back out, disconnect the battery again, grab the pigtail off the AOD and wire up a NSS loop.
Perma-neutral engaged, I climbed in for a second attempt. I was rewarded with LOUD noises. No unexpected noises at least, but open manifolds, sheesh. Trans goes into gear with the engine running, clutch works, and the car will move both forward and rearward under its own power. :roxor:
May 18th is not as far away as I would like to think it is, so it is time for a punch list to make that deadline.
In no particular order:
- Fill trans
- Check rear gear oil
- Engine oil change
- Seal shifter
- Reassemble center stack and console trim
- Rebleed brakes
- Tighten all suspension components
- Alignment
- Paint trim on TC bumper cover
- Convert red stripes to chrome for all nose trim
- Reassemble nose
- Mach1 air dam
- Check wheels for leaks and reseal as needed
- Wire up cooling fan
- Install TC sway bars
- Finish exhaust
- Fog lights?
- Reverse lights
- Speedo gear
There is plenty more to come, but that should get stg1 completed before the May 18th get together in Owensboro. I reserve the right to rearrange or add to my punch list as necessary.
Sa-Weet!
:headbang:
Got to love it when they move under there own power, but forward and rearward, now that's just showing off.
Awesome! You're almost there.
Awesome!
Steps 1&2:
Step 67:
Step 369:
Step 12478:
Then welded all that I could reach with the y-pipe attached to the car. Next up: finish weld, add a couple hangers, and connect to the old ler.
Nice work!
It looks great.
I can't imagine why you wouldn't want to drive around with an open header/manifold 3.8 :toothless: .
Sure would like to see the photos for steps 370 thru 12477. I built my exhaust from bends and know exactly where you are coming from. Looking good.
I should have done a time lapse! That would show how many times I walked between the car, chop saw, welding table, and grinder :rollin:
Silence is golden
Much more fancy than that stock 3.8 is ever gonna deserve.
:like:
I took a short, quiet, uneventful ride around the block this evening before it got dark. :headbang:
Awesome. It's getting there.
The two tires that were leaking down have started to hold air.
The brakes work, but the pedal is very long and vague. I may need to change MC sizes.
I am not checking either off my list entirely yet.
I spent some time cleaning and prepping the TC bumper cover
Then shot it with some trim black
And started an arts and crafts session
I had to epoxy one stud back onto a corner trim, and have the bumper trimmed out also but no pic. Guess yous will hafta wait till the next update for that.
At least you had some cold refreshments while you worked.
Mandatory during arts&crafts jobs :tard:
There is a place in Wisconsin I believe that has the chrome trim that will fit in the bumper cover. I bought some when I had my car painted 2 years ago. I'll find the box in the garage and let you know what company it is. I still had some left after doing the front and rear bumper.
That Michael guy used to sell that stuff....wasn't it Aerobird Motorsports? Sold it all to another guy here and that was the last I heard of either of them....
The first dude was a real asshat, IIRC.
Lookin' good. I dig it!
I have found a couple sources for it. If the chrome strip stays long term, I will buy some. I had this old rocker chrome laying around and it works for now.
If you need the stuff these guys out of Wisconsin sell it: https://www.vinylgraphics.net/products/5772-0-301-50-716-in.-Chrome-Wheel-Well-Molding-by-Trim-Gard/
At least that's where I was able to buy it. The 7/16" stuff that fits the moldings on our cars is getting harder to find. This stuff from 3M (Grainger sells it) works great for the side moldings where you can't remove the center piece: https://www.grainger.com/category/adhesives-sealants-and-tape/tapes/film-tape?attrs=Item%7CMetalized+Film+Tape~~Tape+Color%7CSilver&filters=attrs
The 1/2 inch roll works perfect.
Had to back up a step to get things straight enough to move forward.
Once I got the fender beat out around the cornering light, I went about bolting up the front end.
I struggled to get good pics today. Too bright in the sun, too dark in the shade, too many shadows in the shop....
I am not happy with my leftover rocker trim chrome. I will be ordering up the proper bits as there is no timeline for getting this car painted; I want to, but no idea when it will happen. I need to wire up the cooling fan and dial in the alignment, then I can start driving this thing to work :headbang:
That looks great. I like the way the TC bumper cover looks with the standard header panel. I kinda wish now I had gotten a TC bumper cover when I had my car painted.
The car looks great!
Getting close now!
Thanks guys! Big milestone yesterday getting the nose back together. I am pretty stoked 8)
The car looks great!
I really like the staggered wheels and bumper change. I normally dislike anything chrome but it looks really good one your car.
That's be nice. Those wheels are teh shagay.
Car looks great. + 1 on the TC header with LX grill. I like the color also.
Ray
Very nice!
Love the stance too, sits just right.
:like:
Drove the car to work yesterday. Wasn't late, didn't die!
Unfortunately, on the way home just as things were really starting to smooth out and feeling like parts were jiving, the new TOB went from a slight whirring noise to full-on screechy and crunchy. Trans is coming back out :dislike:
:frown:
Boo hiss
:beatyoass:
Trans out last night, and back in tonight with a new TOB. All was quiet on the test drive, hopefully it stays that way so I can get onto the rest of my prep for the 18th.
Rolled the rear fender lips and tweaked the cooling fan adjustment tonight also
:birdsmily:
Keeping my fingers crossed.
The most important question that needs to be asked...
How does it sound catless through a stock ler?
Silent
Sounds like disappointment.
Mine sounds good! LOL Catless Hpipe and stock 94 Cobra lers dumped.
Yes, again.... this is what happens when you brag on the internet about reusing untested parts :crazy:
Picked up a high speed vibration, felt like driveline but the angles and joints are all good. Found a bunch of slop in the tailshaft bushing.
Well, now all you need is to find a new one!
Every time I pull the T-5 out of my Coupe I check the end play on the input shaft and output shaft slip. Buddy of mine warned me about them having a tendency to “loosen” up over time. Only have had to reshim the input once but after seeing that DOA on the table I’m glad I check it. Man that sucks!!!
Eh, it's not too horrible. From finding the slop to trans on the bench was 35mins. Checking angles and making phone calls to find the part took longer. Having a lift and trans jack help immensely.
This car just doesn't know me yet. Having rejected the T5 transplant twice now, I can see we are being stubborn. I am going to grab a new bushing and attempt another graft implant tonight. Easy way or the hard way car, your choice.
As much as it has fought the process, I am really diggin this car. I made the trip to Owensboro in completely uneventful fashion. The more miles I put on the car, the more things gel and small glitches work themselves out. This car is much more of a GT cruiser than my white car was. The TC was lean and visceral; raw and rough around the edges. Road trips were tolerable, but not its forté.
The ride is firm, but compliant enough that I don't need to be on high alert for bumps, rail crossings, minor potholes at the same level as before. Having insulation under the carpet, a radio, and functioning A/C are all pretty amazing!
Being as the ride down went so well, I did decide to put it on the dyno to get some baseline numbers. I still need to chase the driveline vibration, but the new tailshaft bushing and some tweaking to drive shaft angles got the vibration up above normal cruising speeds. We made one pull and used third gear to keep wheel speed down. I really just wanted to watch it make a pull, not break, and see what sort of plot a CFI 3.8 would make.
Almost hit that century mark! If I had paid for a couple more pulls, I probably could have flipped the air cleaner lid, or bumped the timing for another 1.1hp :crazy:
All said, Ford rated these at 120/205 and if you figure 18% loss thru the driveline, this car is pretty close even with 140K miles.
The overall result of this road trip has helped sort things and solidified some of my plans moving forward. The current suspension which I imagined would be mostly temporary actually works very well. There are a few geometry fixes that need to happen to continue running these parts at such a low ride height, and I think I will move on those vs waiting and ripping it all out later.
- Adjustable RUCAs to address pinion angle
- Lower axle brackets to fix RLCA angles
- Adjustable perch RLCAs to maintain ride height with axle brackets
- Taller lower balljoints for FLCAs
- Dial in bumsteer
These things will happen to make the current suspension work better and kick my other plans way down the list.
What is moving up the list is an engine swap. Overall this car is pretty awesome, but 100hp ain't cutting it. I thought I could hack it for a while and concentrate on other ideas, but this is just not going to work for me.
I have been squirreling away parts and pieces, making a few large, directional changes, but not really spending much cash out of pocket to pull a plan together.
As promised, this car will stay a 6cly, but I am going to build a short stroke motor, drop displacement, and use this to scramble things up
It is a kinda long, circular story but I had a local guy contact me because "I build weird shiznit" and should know someone to buy this engine he was selling. He had a list of details, but no receipts, and refused to open the motor up to verify any components. I tried to sell it to the only guy who might be interested, but without being able to prove what exactly was or wasn't done, no deal was struck. Nearly a year goes by, and I get another call to come get it for whatever I think it is worth before it goes to s. So I picked up a forged piston 3.3L
The other turn this story takes is the mystery guy who I thought might be interested had in his possession a cylinder head which could fix the ugly that sits on top of all the beauty tucked inside this block. I presented Chuck with a deal to acquire his Australian crossflow head. I am going to mix all these parts together with a large helping of atmoshpere and see what sticks.
Here we have a couple dirty bits getting to know one another
And here is the head disassembled and somewhat clean
I had the head tanked, welded up a few coolant ports that are an issue when fitting this head on a US block, and dropped it off to the cylinder head guy for some valve and port work. I will be breaking down the forged 200" engine to inspect the quality of machine work and assembly, doing a lot of measuring, and slowly working my way toward a complete engine with all the good parts in a later block and the crossflow head on top.
, that's cool :like:
Dun, dun, DUUUUNNNNN!
Wish I could've gotten to that head swap project, but I'm sure you'll do it proud.
Well this is getting cool fast.
Do you have to change the K-member out? I recall that early Fox chassis cars with the 3.3 had a different K-member.
I am looking forward to where this twist leads.
A while back I saw a Maverick in a magazine where they installed a 300ci straight six with a turbo. Some straight six goodness.
Yeah, the straight six k-member is unique. I do have my eyes on a couple of Fairmont k-members. If neither of those pan out, I will fab some mounts.
79-82 Fox Mustangs also had the 200 so that may be a source. this is getting friggin interesting!! Good luck and are you gonna even dare and set a hp goal or is this just a put something together that you know will run but wait for the dyno to reveal the goods???
I learned a long time ago not to set HP goals. It will make what it makes.
Since I won't put a roll bar in a street car that still uses the back seat, my performance target is to get kicked out for not having the bar :giggle:
At 3400lbs(guessing here) Wallace Calculators says it will take ~450hp to get there.
Gumby,
Loving the 200ci story so far! I'm definitely gonna follow it. What will you put it in? A few years ago, I found an '85/'86 XR7 on Ebay or CL that had been transplanted with a 200 I6 and automatic. I feel certain it was not done as an upgrade, but rather as the guy putting together what was left when he stole the turbo 4 and 5-speed out of it and put them in his early-80's Mustang (guessing here, but it makes sense to me). I'd love to see a forced air 200.
Hey, on the original topic of the 3.8/T5 swap; must the flywheel come from an '83 F150? The parts ad I found on CL for a T5 from a 3.8 Mustang included the flywheel from the donor (and I have no idea what tooth-count or weight it is). What finally determines the correct flywheel for the application? Is it just making sure the flywheel chosen goes with the starter you're going to use? Or is there a magic number on the tooth-count and imbalance?
Thanks again for your (and everyone else's) help.
Eric, I used Haystack's thread you already found, and this one
https://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/index.php?topic=6042.0
Between the two, I compiled the parts list I used in my car. The flywheel is determined by both the bell/starter you choose and the imbalance of the engine.
I knocked the red engine apart yesterday and found some nice flat top pistons, but some weeny put an 0.085" thick copper head gasket on it while leaving the pistons 0.020" in the hole, for a calculated 7.8:1 static compression ratio :yuck:
I am glad to find flat tops. I was worried this engine might have had dished pistons installed which would make it much more difficult for me to achieve a reasonable compression ratio. The rods are early C3 forged units, the pistons have coated skirts, and the assemblies appear to have been balanced. This rotating assembly will be re-homed into a later block with the big bell housing pattern(2/3 SBF).
If I zero deck the block with these flat top pistons, run a normal thickness head gasket, and figure in the original chamber size on the crossflow head, the calculator spits out a 9.57:1 number that I like much better. Seems that I need to be making calls about camshaft profiles pretty soon. 8)
Is the cyl head guy going to also do some chamber work and unshroud those nice valves?
I am not keeping those nice valves. They are in the iron log head I removed from the red engine, which is for sale.
7.8:1? Why even bother? Geez.
Looks like some good parts in there, though.
Based on evaluating the parts lot I received with the red engine, it was intended to be a blow-thru 2bbl setup, very low tech. A lot of these six guys are quite entrenched in the low compression for boost, late 70's-early 80's mentality. That's part of why I was so worried I might find dish pistons in this engine, even though I knew they were forged aftermarket pieces.
I guess more of a cushion for "error", considering the intended set-up.
Can't say too much, I guess. The turbo engine in my 240 is factory at 7.5:1, I think, but it's also early '80's mechanical FI tech. It's replacement engine will be more like 9.5:1
I don't really have much of an update here, but it has been a few weeks so here are some words. I have been driving the car regularly. Installed some adjustable upper control arms to dial in the drive line angles. On one of my test drives the low oil pressure light decided to start flickering at idle.
I parked the car for a couple days while I gathered time to stick a real gauge on it and check oil pressure mechanically. I found 60psi cold start and 22psi hot idle. Seems healthy, so I replaced the sender. Second guessed myself at the parts counter and got the wrong sender the first time, so I got to do that job twice. I also replaced the coolant temp sender at the same time. The gauge hasn't been working since I put the car back on the road. It is nice to at least have a minimal monitor on what the engine temp is doing 8)
Made it all of three days and it cut clean off while driving to work one morning last week.... WTF?
I called for a ride and came back with a friend and a trailer after work. Still no start. I was thinking TFI, but they typically will re-fire once they cool off. Bummer. Load up and shove it in the shop, didn't have time to look at it again till tonight.
Rotor spins during cranking, power to the coil. Shot some brake cleaner in the CFI and it coughed. No friggin way, I just had the tank down, you dirty mfer :beatyoass:
Fuel pump was last on my list of things to check. The tank is only half full AND I have a spare pump on the shelf. This is NOT when fuel pumps go bad. Sure enough though, all the wiring checked out and I dropped the tank to swap pumps.
It runs again. :headbang:
Ugh, days like that you start thinking about making a hinged door in the trunk.
Didn't you change the fuel pump when you were putting the car together?
Just the hose. Pump ran at that time.
Usually my pumps fail on a full tank.
This 3.8 is chock full of disappointment. The car has hardly been on the road at all in July. A couple near overheats, a cracked radiator neck, and most recently a leaky water pump. I have a sneaking suspicion one or both headgaskets may be allowing combustion pressure into the water jackets.
Couple all that with the Crossflow head locked up in machine shop jail and a bout of FB marketplace fueled automotive ADHD, and I am in full detour mode (https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/wha-thats-my-jam-gastropod-19/156303/page1/) .
Wow. You just ran right out onto the ledge and jumped before the news crews could get there. :P
Looks like a decent collection of parts when you get done thrashing it. :toothless:
Oboy!
So are you going to stick with the 6 cylinder build or is the DOHC 4.6 too tempting?
Going to mix in a little atmosphere with this one too?
Oh hell no, you guys aren't gonna bait me that easily! Every time I make a plan public, I end up going back and changing stuff. Not this time; I am letting the ADHD lead and simply going along for the ride.
I vote Eaton and their variety of atmosphere... You know... Space saving.
Update your thread. Do it.
Any updates on the Bluebird?
I think I saw something bad happened in the Mustang on Facebook. Hopefully a different person.
No Bluebird updates.
What you likely saw was 100% not a different person. The continuation, and conclusion, of that detour is still in the same place. Hoping to finally wrap up the settlement this week.
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/wha-thats-my-jam-gastropod-19/156303/page1/
Glad you are okay. The SHO looks in great condition.
Here goes nuthin
Lowering the car onto it 5 or 6 times should do it.
Don't mind the crunching noises. That's normal.
Are you gonna try and do the weekend slam or just as time allows?
I have all winter to get this stage complete. Target deadline is HRPT in June
Roger that. My impatience died in my 20’s...it’s called better planning.
Awesome!
Nice progress!
Awesome!
Think this one will break 100rwhp?
The 4v 4.6L is one of the best sounding V8's. I'm excited for you to get it in.
Probably not, but since I have witnessed one of your cars not be able to outrun a 4v mn12, this should be fine... :rollin:
Lots of engine bay cleaning today.
I also did the first test fit of the sn95 k-member, and am now reminded of a couple fitment gotchas. I will get those ironed out, then clean and paint the k-member.
To this day, I look back and think about that. It was no fault of the car. I didn't drop down to 3rd gear. I was a non-driver and was only dropping to 4th. 100% my fault.
Have to slot the rear mounting ears?
Where your brake lines go?!
The same place the rest of the braking system went, I assume.
Those headers appear to be BBK, if you are going to use them just a warning you may have steering shaft clearance issues and on the right side firewall clearance issues. At least I did into my 85. Definitely following along. :roxor:
I cut the rear brake line at the base of the firewall. I will be running new lines along the firewall from the hydroboost to the right front wheel and rear line connection. I want the k-member to be easily removable for future service options.
I test fit the drivetrain to decide if I might like to use the rear kmember mounting holes as my reference location. This would push the kmember forward about ¾" and move the lower control arms with it. Upon inspection though, the shifter lines up with the hole I already cut for the old T5 if I keep the standard kmember location, so I modded the lower mounts and measured for my spacer.
The headers are indeed BBK, and I can confirm a slight interference with the passenger footwell. Steering shaft is next on my list. I will be adapting what appears to be a Maximum Motorsports sn95 shaft to the Fox column in order to use an 03-04 Cobra rack.
I also have this co-habitation to deal with
I trimmed off the lower mount and relocated those holes as well. I went with a 5/8” spacer on the upper and 1/8” at the lower just to move things down a bit for a little more hood and header clearance. Also used the maximum Motorsport hybrid shaft to get the cobra rack connected. I also moved the engine forward around 1/4-3/8” by reaming out where the motor mount stud goes thru the k member. Here is what I did to get steering shaft clearance.
Thank you for the reminder. I went back and re-read thru the beginning of your thread for hints on my path forward ;)
Passenger side header contact addressed, and engine/kmember bolted up.
Then, onto the steering shaft. Chopping and splicing the MM sn95 shaft, mating it up to the Fox column, then shifting and spacing the column down slightly got me (barely) past the header!
I'm thinking SFCs might be next, while the engine is in and I can visualize exhaust and trans crossmember stuffs.
Looks good in there. I can’t believe you got that steering shaft to clear that header tube. :bowdown: I did try shimming the column but would have had to go so far I didn’t like the steering wheel location.
You using solid engine mounts on that thing? That is pretty tight clearance.
You gonna do the thru-floor SFCs in this?
Poly engine mounts. There is a bit more room than the pic shows. Tough to get a good angle.
Normal bottom mounts with your seat braces for this car.
Pretty good looking. The wheels turn ok with the shaft at that crazy angle?
Yup.
I was moving stuff around the garage and randomly found a set of yellow fogs I bought specifically for this car. I couldn't find them when I swapped to the TC bumper, but now I can install them when the nose goes back on.
I also did some more cleaning today and some measuring to get ready for SFCs
Yellow fogs... :like:
Two 5ft long pieces of material on their way to becoming SFCs
I know of an Askhole that can help you out with those SFC's.
Getting closer.
Had to stop yesterday. Ran out of argon and the cord on my welder wasn't long enough...Fixed both issues, but no more SFC progress yet.
Beefy.
Meh. They are dimensionally larger than typical, but thinner wall. Of no shock to you, I don't generally follow the well trodden paths ;)
One of my pet peeves is the way exhaust hangs down beneath most V8 cars. With an inline motor it is nice to be able to tuck the exhaust up tight to the trans, and with my IRS in the white car I could keep it closer to the driveshaft and up in the tunnel area. Silly vee motors have to run the exhaust below the floor pans, and long tube headers make it worse.... With these connectors, I should be able to keep the pipes above the lowest point of the car.
I am going to add spreader plates to the sides of the connectors and subframe channels to add more stiffness than simply bottom welding. The offset I added keeps the tubing in line with the rear subframe channel instead of running at an angle, to make adding the rear side plates easier.
Today's progress included notching for exhaust, lots of undercoat removal and cleaning, and some paint on the tops of the SFC's that will be inaccessible once they are installed.
Still beefy enough. That cross-section is going to be pretty stiff.
The subframe connectors look great.
Nice :headbang:
Cleared another hurdle today. That jackstand had been under the transmission for far too long.
Good stuff!
At least you're clearing hurdles. I just put another one in my way. *derp*
Been a busy weekend so far.
I used my lift as a press
Fought with an aftermarket set of 4.10's and got the 8.8 hung under the car
Picked out a driveshaft
(not the aluminum one :frown: )
and removed the drivetrain, again....
I snagged the P/S cooler loop from the crashed Mustang core support and fitted it around the Fox condenser
Then I threw parts at the left side of the engine bay until I found locations that would allow everything to cohabitate
So if you do not mind, what is the measurement from the pivot point to the dowel pin on the brake pedal?
100% didn't measure anything. I used info Hidley posted in bodyman's thread as a general reference for where I needed to go, then I picked one stud on the hydroboost that made sense for locating the unit as a whole, and relocated the pin accordingly. :crazy:
That is what I needed and thank you.
Dumb question but why not just use the hydroboost pedal?
The SN95 pedal assembly might fit our cars but I do not know for sure. If they fit a Fox Mustang then I would be highly confident it would work.
Trying to make the brake pedal fit a Fox upper assembly might not work.
The sn95 pedal box is different and not a direct bolt in for a Fox. I sold the set I had before I ever compared swapping the brake pedal itself into a Fox pedal box.
I had looked at using a SN95 pedal assembly because the spacing for the clutch is further out.
Here's the thread I saw about doing the conversion:
https://www.modularfords.com/threads/109943-How-to-use-Cobra-(SN95)-pedals-in-fox
I have spent the last couple weeks of shop time chasing myself around in circles, starting 15 different tasks, but not getting much of anything finished.
- Two new hydroboost lines installed, third one repaired(return line is NLA)
- Fit the '97 PCM in the stock location and installed the main harness
- Laid the rest of the engine bay wiring in for mockup, scoured EVTMs to begin interfacing 1997 wires into 1987 car
- Removed new wiring harness and set aside to clean and pare down later
- Junkyard run for injectors and a handful of bits that were smashed in the crash
- Began disassembly of the engine for cleaning
- Sidetracked into mocking up new coolant pipes for the heater core
- Cleaned lots of battery acid induced corrosion off of engine bits
None of this really makes good pics, but I took one today after the first valve cover was finished
Also note the new injectors installed in the intake on the far right. The PO of this engine had swapped out the OE 24lb injectors for stock 2v 19lb units to keep the GT PCM happy. It ran OK with this set up but was clearly handicapped by the GT maps and rev limiter. These are GM 36lb injectors from the Series II 3800. They should run about 33lb at Ford rail pressure and provide plenty of fuel to get a good tune on this mild combo.
I am about out of patience for cleaning, and I need a big visual marker to boost motivation. Paint the k-member, run some brake lines, trim the shifter hole, and cut out some spacers for k-member mounting. Then, I should be able to stuff the drivetrain into the car all clean and pretty.
...and circle back for the wiring I put aside....
Progress is progress, even if you can't see huge results! :like:
Clean enough for driver status. Parts mock up
That thing is a chunker.
Pulled the Kmember free of the engine, broke out the pressure washer, and them slathered on a couple coats of Ford Grey tractor paint
While that cured, I started on the brake lines. This one is almost done, and the other two are less complex, so maybe I can have the brake lines all wrapped up on Sunday.
Toight!
What material are those lines?
NiCopp. Amazing stuff!
I thought it looked like it. Gonna need some of that for the 240 project, most likely.
Not sure it will be an issue, but knowing how close my right header is to the rail I would be concerned about cooking the fluid in the line there. Just a thought.
That was my reasoning for pulling the line to the outside of the rail and bringing it back inside further forward. There is enough air gap at the new location that I am not concerned.
Looks awesome!
Figured I better dospoogeent the lines before they are eclipsed by the humongous engine. :bricks1:
Tees dotted and eyes crossed, hopefully the last time I install this drivetrain for a while
That fits under the stock hood correct?
Working on wiring. No good for pics, so here is a RADwood flavored teaser
Yeah, that's definitely RADwood material.
Needs more neon pink.
Adding details so that after this is done I can read back thru and adjust my selective memories. I spent an hour last night moving the washer tank forward 3/4" to clear the sn95 underhood power distribution box, and forgot to take a pic cause it looks stock...
Moderate wire tuck
And if there isn't a lot going on in this left front corner....
Looks pretty clean.
Things are pretty tight under the hood, though, so it's probably best.
Facebook, NO! Bad Facebook, shame on you!
Sure. Why not?
:popcorn:
Do it, maybe.
Buddy if mine has a Y trim on his ‘03 Mach 1 and it has that “Holy shiznit factor”. Another vote for more power.
My mistake, I just asked him and it’s a V2 SQSC So a helical cut instead of straight cut to make it quieter hence the “SQ”.
He also said that on the four valve motors with exception of the Cobras the computer takes fuel out when the traction control is engaged. His is programmed out so when the car is started his traction control is immediately turned off and the dummy light shows it. He just wanted to pass that on as it’s a critical item when tuning.
Where's the boost?
So, did you buy it? :P
After hours of deliberation, and even some enabling by SWMBO, I decided that if I want this car to run anytime soon and if I ever want to get to the rest of my projects, I had better curb the scope creep.
Worked on more wiring last night. Have a nibble on the SHO, so it might leave soon. Un-named and unrelated project being delivered tomorrow.
Scooooooooppppeeeeee creeeeeeeeeeeppppp!!!!
BTW, I have a 1989 factory manual for the Taurus, including the SHO engine supplement, if the buyer is interested in that. (They (or you) can have it)
Fuel lines connected
Bunch of other junk on the engine now too. Getting close to cranking
That's one way to do it. :giggle:
Getting closer!
This awesome. I really need to learn how to weld.
Well, isn’t that special
That is very cool! Congrats!!!
THE BEAST STIRS IN ITS SLUMBER and grumbles, "just 5 more minutes...."I hit the shop this morning excited, but also with some trepidation. I am oh so close to calling this wiring mess done! That also means trouble shooting any things that don't work properly on the first go, and there is always something.....
- Finish the last few connections of the interior jumper harness - √
- Tidy the routing and loom the aforementioned harness - √√
- Reinstall the steering column so I can power everything up - √
- Getting anxious now, test battery voltage before connecting cables - a touch low, but √
- CONNECT THE CABLES WITHOUT RELEASING THE SMOKE FROM THE HARNESS!!! - √√√√
- Short break to congratulate myself and ponder what exactly I may have forgotten, notice that my boss has posted on FB about the pic of my car in GRM, waste time on the internet chasing squirrels.....
- Deep breath, turn the key! Still no smoke, some clicks but no whirring.
There should be whirring, and an illuminated MIL; there is neither.
Sad Panda. Time to fire up the diagnostic brain, hit the obvious things first. No MIL means no PCM, no PCM means no fuel pump(no whirring). A quick flip thru the EVTM reveals that part of the sn95 relay module(CCRM) is powered up by a feed from the interior fuse panel which is hanging on the wall. Why? i dunno why, all the rest of the power comes from the under hood power distribution box which I have wired into the car, but whatever. I need to power up this red/green wire. Red wires and yellow wires are very important for Ford wiring harnesses. Typically 12v supply wires, in this case hot in run and start. Figure out where it is disconnected, and tie it back in, ok! Put everything back together.
Another deep breath and turn the key again. More clicks, still no smoke, but also still no whirring and no MIL. berkeley. PCM relay and fuel pump relay are both in the CCRM, so pull out the DVOM and start double checking my work. Three yellow wires(12v hot at all times) in, but only one is hot, WTF? Follow the harness to the next connector, one that I have had my hands on countless numbers of times, and one of the yellows is deadheaded....BY MY DOING! Remember the whole yellows are important bit? Yup, must been on the good drugs whatever night I pulled that off.
[Intermission to pick up my BiL from the airport, and eat some supper]
Reach into the pile of cast-off wires and find the scoundrel, plug it back into the connector, chase it into the loom back to the power distribution box, push a fuse into that location, and put everything back together that got in my way along the route. Turn the key again. MORE clicks, and whirring!!! No smoke, and the MIL is on! Do a dance, drink a beer, commence system checks.
- MIL is on
- Fuel pump primes(2sec) at key on
- Fuel pressure present at the rail
- Code reader is able to scan the PCM
- Fog light relay clicks when commanded
- Starter relay clicks when commanded
- Fan relay clicks when commanded
I noticed the battery voltage was falling hard and hooked up the charger, but I cannot yet attempt to fire the engine. I need to have the PATS junk turned off in the PCM before it will start. I wanted to have this handled before I took everything apart to eliminate variables, but my SCT guy and I couldn't get our schedules aligned. He has been notified that I am ready, so hopefully it happens soon.
I did get froggy and run a temporary wire from the relay to the starter. The engine cranks on the key, w00t! Still much to do before entertaining thoughts of a test drive, but I am beyond ready for loud noises.
Oh so close!
Yup
6wks. I am ashamed that this car is so close to being back on the road and I have barely touched it in 6wks....
Front suspension is in. Brakes hooked up and initial bleed complete. Power steering filled and cycled thru the cooler and hydroboost. Engine starts and runs for 3sec before PATS shuts off the fun. Still in a holding pattern on getting that defeated in the PCM.
I sold my SHO last night and currently have no play vehicle for the street. That is not how this is supposed to work. On the upside however, part of the deal struck on the SHO included another mess of Mustang donor parts I didn't know I wanted.
Hold onto your butts, scope creep ahead!
This should be entertaining. :toothless:
That'll make it a little more fun.
You running tail pipes? I've heard the MM panhard bar is a tight fit with the stock fuel tank and tail pipes.
I have a handful of things started and have been dragging my feet wrapping them up. New parts have an amazing way of clearing the mental block.
Put the sheet metal back on the car, then sit back and stare for while
Then I climbed inside and completed the stereo shuffle that began with ripping out the red display Sony that didn't match anything, and putting in a RAD Pioneer I bought in high school.
I cut a window in the hood liner for intake clearance. Just need to find 15 new push pins since every one of the originals broke when I pulled the liner down.
Looks awesome! Love the TC bumper cover with the LX header.
Hood push pins:
https://lmr.com/item/PE-974/1983-93-Mustang-Under-Hood-Insulator-Retainers-Pack-Of-14
I used these on my '84 and can confirm they are 100% identical to stock.
Small step
And the only visual marker of some larger steps
I installed the Mustang lower control arms which are ⅜" shorter than the Tbird version, and needed to remind myself that it is ok not to nit-pick this detail. The effort it would take to extend these is not in proportion with the result. I ran an uncorrected Cobra IRS subframe under my old TurboCoupe and not a single person ever noticed or mentioned the change in wheel location.
I also got a good start on the Panhard Bar installation. Axle bracket is fitted, and the frame bracket too. I am about halfway thru drilling the mount holes for the frame bracket. I only needed to massage one location on the left side tank strap mount to relieve a minor interference with the frame bracket. So far, so good.
That doesn't sound too bad. Much less than I had to deal with trying to fit mine.
I forget, but the Torque arm gets rid of the uppers, right?
Correct. No more uppers for this car :headbang:
Finished up the panhard bar mount and then the tires touched pavement today. First time since January. It appears to have gained about ½" of ride height in the rear with the new LCAs. I will make final adjustments there after I correct some geometry.
Moved the car to the lift so I can start on the T/A, and then exhaust. I don't think the standard location tailpipe is gonna work on the passenger side, but we'll see.
Im interested in seeing how you tackle the passenger side tail pipe with the PHB mount. I decided to run dumps with it but man I miss the quiet.
Please post up some pictures of how you do it, 'cause i know you're gonna.
Turn the height adjusters down on the control arms and you'll be good ;) .
Sits pretty nice as is though.
Yep. You're still a dick Gumby.
:rollin:
Nice seeing you get some recognition from MM.
I think 232ci is jealous now. :giggle:
Maybe a year or two ago, Gumby and I were discussing builds and swaps that would be cool. I have access to a Mark VIII, so my "what if" build was to swap a DOHC 4.6L with a manual, and do the MM TA/PHB setup, 3 piece wheels and so on.
It just so happens that the stars align for Gumby to build almost exactly what I want.
I occasionally message him on FB to call him a dick.
The Bird looks great. Should be a fun driver.
Sounds like it's time to locate yo'self a Coyote and be a bigger dick. :rollin: :ford: :bowdown:
I daily drive a 2018 Mustang GT. I don't really need another Coyote car.
Not to mention, those swaps are expensive as hell.
Pretty sure that conversation was considerably longer than a couple years ago. I recall telling you to go for it, as I wanted nothing to do with a modular swap at that point, and I was still enamored with the IRS. Definitely already had these wheels at least....Funny how things change.
I am calling this mock-up complete. There was some clearancing necessary to the seat bracing under the floor pan, and a bit of tender massaging to the tunnel/floorpan area. Looking pretty good from my vantage. Next up, I need to grab a couple feet of 2x2x0.125" angle to construct brackets for the T/A crossmember, and then paint all this bare steel under the car.
How much ground clearance are you going to have for that torque arm? Looks pretty low.
Since it is fixed to the axle, ground clearance is directly determined by tire size. :dunno:
Yeah, so pretty low.
Looks good. Should be fun!
Have over 10,000 miles on my Coupe with the MM TA and zero issues. Running 275/40R17 Nitto 555R’s in the rear now and used to run 245/40R17 Dunlop Dirreza’s on the past. The clearance Issue I have is the stock air dam with the car so low.
Killer project man!!!
Looks awesome.
Still using the stock steel driveshaft I see.
It is actually a TC shaft(larger u-joints) with a 31T slip yoke. The aluminum Mustang one I have here is a touch too short still.
Bonus content! My son had a doc appt this morning which took longer than expected and I decided it wasn't worth driving into work afterwards. I will be a much higher functioning human tomorrow after a mental health day, so I locked myself in the garage, cranked up the stereo, and ignored the outside world.
T/A cross member brackets. Before, and after some metallic origami. After, pictured with gusseted doublers, ready to be assembled.
And welded, ready for installation
Man, I love when I get those rare days.
Those brackets look good. Great execution.!
Can you make a swan next? :toothless:
I would like to utilize your services please.
Those brackets are really nice. Sweet.
Baby step
There are a bunch of sales going on for Labor Day, so I was seeing if MM had any good deals, Unfortunately, they don't.
Anyways, I looked at their torque arm instructions, and they have the most pathetic mounting tabs to weld to the SFC's. I like your setup much better.
I hosed all the bare metal with self-etch, and then brushed on a coat of matte black tractor paint a couple days ago. Today I went after final assembly of the rear suspension.
- TA cross-member bolted in
- Front TA mounts drilled thru the diff ears
- Pinion angle set
- Lock down all the hardware
Next was cycling the suspension to check for interference. Everything looks good at full bump.
Then, I took another look at the lower control arm angle. It has been wrong since I lowered the car and I had planned on getting a set of brackets that attach to the axle for correcting the angle. Adding the PHB in the mix however, meant that type of bracket would require heavy re-engineering of the PHB axle mount. This was not enticing.
At the chassis end of the LCAs, there is a large gap between the arm and the body and plenty of drill access without exhaust on the car, so I decided on raising the pick-up point at the chassis end to make the correction.
I also took the opportunity to cheat the mounting hole rearward a touch, making up some of the length difference when using Mustang control arms.
Nice adjustment.
Is that the final ride height in the front or is it going slightly lower (obviously the rear will be a little higher).
Taking advantage of the holiday weekend. I reorganized the shop, moved out a pile of parts that do not belong to any the three projects currently inhabiting the building, picked up a bunch of parts strewn about the floor and put them on the freshly cleared shelves, then I got to work!
I began by topping up the battery and plugging in the OBD scan tool to confirm to the best of my ability that there are no issues on my end preventing the car from running. The start-up tune needs another tweak; not looking good for driving it this year...Next up, I wired in the VSS recalibration box so I can work on exhaust without getting in my own way. And then, I started that exhaust stuff
Since there is no longer room for a passenger side tailpipe with the new rear suspension I have settled for running a 3" single on the left.
2.5" from the headers to the merge. 3" from the merge, out the back. Everything from the headers to the ler is tacked up. Hoping that I can get the tailpipe and hangers configured before the weekend is over.
Looking good!
Awesome. Great to see some progress on this! :like:
Wow...that is alot of work. Looks like it is going well.
Congrats,
Trav
Looks great!
That must have been fun fitting the 3" tail section over the rear axle with the panhard bar?
There's plenty of room on the drivers side. Lol the passenger side is the problem, the tank mount is directly in the way. That's why I ended up running dumps on mine.
Looking really good man! Keep it up! The T/A is the last peice to my puzzle under the car and I can't wait to be able to get it and get it in when funds allow it. I'd like to get the MM lower arms too just to have everything match I guess. Ive still got to do SFC's seat braces and torque box plates and all that jazz. I have it all already just got to do it
Bluebird runs! Of course INDOT has covered all the roads with salt so no test drives for a bit, but still BEST CHRISTMAS EVAR!!!!
Awesome! Hopefully we'll get a couple warmer rainy days to washing the roads down and you can get it out.
*Makes car run at Christmas time*
"Ok, I can have these loose ends tied off before the roads are clear and the weather turns nice!"
*Ignores car until spring break*
Yeah. So a couple weekends ago I got back on finishing this car.
- weld up the exhaust and build a tailpipe
- nut&bolt entire car
- top off fluids
- alignment
- reinstall EEC and misc trim panels in the interior
- TEST DRIVE!
After chasing an air pocket out of the cooling system, all subsequent drives have been positive. Ride is good, suspension feels great, engine is running well, no leaks, etc.
Unfortunately, nixing the dual exhaust in favor of keeping the new PHB meant I had to give up the x-pipe. An x-pipe is what makes the modular exhaust note tolerable to my ears. Without it, and without cats, they bark and snarl in obnoxious fashion and I was hating that my beautiful, personal sports coupe sounded like some punk's ragged out Mustang or straight piped F150.
I fixed that today by cramming 20" of glasspack in the space where I had previously fitted the tailpipe.
So. Much. Better.
Time to schedule a dyno appointment and get the tune dialed in.
Looks good. Any way to get a sound clip and post it?
Glad to see it out and roaming again!
:like:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWyuah_DKIc
What power did it put out?
I know it's stock and all, but it's for sure going to make a good driver.
It matched the peak HP number of the 2.3 in my TC, which was the bottom of the acceptable range I set before deciding to move forward with swapping it in. Torque delivery makes for quite a different driving experience and the 4.10’s help cover for the extra weight.
That sounds pretty ed good in my opinion, not that my opinion matters in the slightest.
Nice work!
Looks like solid driver numbers to me.
That sounds great! I didnt read the whole thread. What was the engine combo?
TL;DR powertrain review:
Stock 4.6 4v longblock from a mkviii, long tube headers, 2.5" y-pipe to 3" single exhaust, CAI, Cobra intake manifold. T45, 4.10's in an 8.8
Sounds good. Decent power numbers for a basically stock 4.6 4V as well.
Now I'm kinda wishing I had done the TC bumper cover with the LX header panel when I had my car painted a few years ago. It looks better than the stock LX bumper cover.
I still stand by the fact that the 4v is one of the best sounding V8's ever.
You're still a dick.