Perfect, that's exactly what I needed to know! How did the rebuild of the T5 treat you?
The old transmission is still on the shelf. I had an extra in the garage, which is what I installed. I still plan to investigate the T5 rebuild for another project.
I did pull the one I installed apart many years ago and did a minor rebuild on it though. It's been a minute, but I remember it wasn't all that terrible to do.
Hey Chuck, just got caught up on the last few years. What a ride! I'm ironing out my own issues with my MS3X so I feel your pain. I'm curious what the part number on that radiator is, I'll probably need to replace mine once it's back on the road after sitting in the garage for 14 years.
Thanks! (I saw all of the notifications ) The car is running pretty well (at least well enough to leave alone for the time being)
The radiator is just their "basic" one for the Fox Mustangs with a manual trans (HERE.) I didn't need any more than that.
I would suggest painting the inside and out of the PA6 Nylon if using as a funnel since it will be porous. It will also help with any UV degradation if it has any exposure.
The current Volvo reservoir is PA6-66, which is what I'd be printing with. Not going to see much UV exposure underhood. The chemical resistance is the key factor I'm after and heat will be a non-issue.
If there is an issue, I can always try PEKK, but for now, I figure it's safe to use what the OEs did. :)
last weekend I managed to get a little time to get the valve body back into the 6R80 with the new lead frame.
Once I sort out the trans cooler and the lines, I can get the trans filled up. Looks like I'm going to use a cooler from a '05-10 car.
The other thing I needed to do was get this mounted up.
I used the ICT Billet bracket and mounted it up on the DS. Made up a quick bracket to attach it to the inner fender area and added a small support link to help keep it from cantilevering around.
I have a plan for the filler, as the stock reservoir that I got with the pump isn't really going to work. I'm going to CAD up something and print it out of PA6 Nylon. It'll be more of a fill funnel, than a reservoir, but it'll take up less room and do what I need it to do.
Speaking of 3D printing. I found an STL online for the "Starfish" center cap that didn't have the prancing pony on it, so I printed some up out of ABS. Going to clean them up and paint them silver.
I had also needed a little inspiration to kick-start me back on this project, so I stuck a control arm/strut/spindle on the car to check and see how the wheels/tires were going to clear the fenders. This car is running a modular K-member and SN-95 FCAs that I moved in 3/4" to get the proper width, Looks like my clearances will be good. (There is a spacer between the wheel and the hub that is the same thickness as a rotor).
I'm also close to connecting a fuel system. I need to replace the busted fitting at the fuel rail, but the tank and pump/etc are all assembled and I think it works as it should, but I have yet to pressurize the (returnless) system. Fitting on order for that.
I've just been driving this, and have put about 250 miles on it since the rework. Haven't seen any dribbles under it and the fluid levels all look good. I do want to tweak the idle up a little bit, but that'll be an easy adjustment.
The last thing that was on my list of tasks during this round of things was to re-grease the RUCA bushings. They've had a bit of a squeak when the rear takes a bounce.
They have poly on the body end and rubber on the axle ears. I boxed them up quick when I originally redid the car. so they're kinda stiff.
Personally, I don't need fancy and just want stable.
I however have my own hosting for images, etc. so I don't need forum resources to host attachments.
My thoughts would be for the cheaper option for now and get the site moved and stable.
Another forum I'm on has a monthly contribution subscription. No really "benefits" other than identifying you as a supporter/contributor. It's like $5/month. Now that site sees a lot more traffic than here, but even a few supporters could help and start to build funds for any future needs. I'd for sure opt in if that was a option here.
I don't remember if my spare doors in my storage are vent windowed or not. I can try and check the next time I'm at the other property if you don't find something closer.
Started the car without any additional throttle input this morning. Almost a stall right after start, but it settled out and I didn't have to touch it.
Almost have those crank prime settings and after-start enrichments dialed in.
The ancient MS unit is pretty crude, but it's still better than the stock set-up was.
We had a big warmup and melt off this week, so it was much more conducive to working on the cars.
While I spent some time yesterday re-acquainting myself with where I was on the wagon project, I also had some time to sort out a couple of loose ends on this project.
At some point last year, I stopped being able to lock the driver door. I'd replaced the broken auto lock switch at some point, and all of that worked, but the driver-side just would not lock because something was binding and keeping the lock from fully engaging. I took the door panel off and dug in to discover that the lock popper had seized up. This was preventing things from behaving.
I didn't have any spares, so I just disconnected the rod from the latch/lock assy for now. The only hitch is that if I unlock the pass side first and engage the auto unlock, the driver side won't pop and it needs to be open manually. A minor annoyance, but better than leaving the car unlocked.
Also, I took the time today to figure out what happened to my tach signal. I had rechecked the wiring on the harness I removed and altered, and that was all fine. I also knew that nothing on that side of things should be affecting the tach signal.
After a bit of tracing and ringing out wires, I found the culprit.
On the DS there is a 6-pin connector that contains the wire to the tach. Now, bear in mind, the wiring diagrams for these show almost nothing for a tachometer. They were a rare item in the LTD/Marquis. Took some digging and interpolation of things to find what I needed. What I think happened is that the signal for this was tucked in with the TAB/TAD smog solenoids, which were removed. I probably pulled the wire out and de-pinned it from this connector when I yanked all of that garbage, not realizing what it was. I wound up running a new wire to that connector and we again have a working tach.
Other than some tuning stuff and eventually swapping to a NBO2 sensor, this particular project seems to be wrapped up.
) The car is running pretty well (at least well enough to leave alone for the time being)
