1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #60 – November 28, 2010, 08:11:02 AM Very nice flylear! I am jealous as to how far along you are. I do plan on running the 4R70W. I already have one from an explorer 2WD. I plan to use the new Baumann optishift. Probably about the same as the original, but in a smaller package. Please let me know how the trans tuning and shifting turns out!Keep up the great work! Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #61 – November 28, 2010, 08:19:28 AM I'll do that for sure, Shredder. I just picked up a Gentex mirror with compass and temp and a used temp probe off evilbay. Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #62 – November 28, 2010, 08:46:23 AM Lots of time and effort there! Can't wait to see the finished product! I hope to run a 4r70w someday in the bird. Keep it up! Mike Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #63 – December 16, 2010, 06:33:03 AM Update:Got the engine bay harness all loomed. Looks pretty good so far. I have about 10 wires under the dash to hook up t finish the MS harness and to tie in the tranny computer harness. I'm also using the reverse light 12v wire to signal the in-dash monitor to switch to a back-up camera (future mod), and to kill the autodim on the mirror.I plan to get that done today, and get the shifter finalized. Once those things are done I can pull the headliner and run the harness for the new Gentex mirror. Soon I'll be ready to install the heater box and dashboard!Funny story: I had the heater box all ready to go with a epoxy re-inforced heater core, but thought I'd better spin the blower motor to see if it sounded strong before I installed it. So, I run a couple wires to my shop battery and ....... the thing makes an awful racket and starts spewing insulation and all over the place! Turns out a mouse had made a home in the blower cage and it was packed full in there. I yanked the motor and changed it with a good one I had around. Took an hour to get the junk out of the heater box. Sure glad I checked it! Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #64 – December 16, 2010, 08:49:42 AM Funny story about the heater box. Mice like those things for some reason! So glad you checked it. That would be NO fun pulling the dash and keater box out again - especially if you had the A/C hooked up. What other "features" are you planning to have? Backup camera, autodim mirror, compass, outside temp... Are you planning ABS, keyless entry, radar detector, NAV, DVD player, Car PC?I'm dreaming about my wiring diagram for much of the same stuff you are planning. Keep up the great work and the updates! Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #65 – December 16, 2010, 09:57:17 AM Quote from: The Shredder;345893Funny story about the heater box. Mice like those things for some reason! So glad you checked it. That would be NO fun pulling the dash and keater box out again - especially if you had the A/C hooked up. What other "features" are you planning to have? Backup camera, autodim mirror, compass, outside temp... Are you planning ABS, keyless entry, radar detector, NAV, DVD player, Car PC?I'm dreaming about my wiring diagram for much of the same stuff you are planning. Keep up the great work and the updates! Yeah, I would have been one angry dude if I hadn't checked it first!As far as the 'features' go, aside from what you mentioned, it'll keep the stock brakes with ABS.CarPC based on an Intel Atom and a 7" touchscreen with console mounted touchpad. Ride control will be locked to 'firm' in the rear, and I'll be able to switch the front to 'soft' for the drag strip via a switch that will also switch the tranny to a second map for hard shifts.No radar detector, I go 10 mph over on the highway max. No tickets in 18 years. Cruise control retained (Helps in the ticket department as well!)No keyless as in factory keyless, but I'm adding a Directed remote setup to lock/unlock doors and trunk, and am using the lighted door locks.Nav will be through the carPC with Garmin software probably, I haven't decided. I can mirror my phone on the 7" screen and it has Google maps for now. I will be mounting the GPS receiver while I have the headliner out.No DVD player. I hate dealing with the disks in the car. I have a 500 GB hard drive with all my music plus an HD radio with AM/FM through the carPC. (I have 4 TB of storage in the house I am transferring all my DVD's to so I don't have to look for DVD cases. I just got 2 Seagate Freeagent+ units that can stream my files to the bedroom and gameroom buttstuffog TV's and do Netfix streaming. Merry Christmas to me!)I plan to keep the A/C. It'll be using the Explorer compressor, so I'll be making some custom lines to mate it to the Tbird stuff. That'll be last on the list, however.Getting a plan from the beginning is really important if you want it all to just WORK and be neat and organized. There's a ton of extra wiring on this project. Grounds are ultra, ultra important. All the computers need to share the same lug on the block if possible, including the wideband and the tranny computer. (The servo grounds are isolated near the tranny, however.) I have a stack of paper with sketches of my circuit diagrams, and my EVTM is full of notes on the system diagrams. I'd never keep track of it all otherwise.I'm running a 2 AWG ground cable from the trunk battery to the starter/ block area, then a 4AWG from block to intake, 4AWG from block to frame and body, 2 10ga's from the block into the main harness. Then a pair of 10ga from the driver's side block to the frame and fender well where the EDIS grounds. There are also 10ga wires from the block to the A/C compressor mount, the alternator mount, and for the fan's negative. The battery posts have a second set of 4 AWG taps for power to the trunk mounted computer and fuel pump, and ground to the body/frame back there. I'll also run braided straps from the exhaust to body, block to front frame, and from engine to transmission.Power comes through a 6 AWG from the alternator through tandem 12ga fusible links to the hot side of the starter relay (same as Explorer), a 4AWG from the relay to starter hot, and 2AWG from there back to the battery. I'm fusing the battery + cable with a 175 amp Contour fuse in the trunk to give protection on both ends. That way a short on the cable can't burn the car. That's the basic stuff anyway! Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #66 – December 16, 2010, 10:04:26 AM Just to be 'real', I do have my stretch of deserted road out here I use for 'tuning runs'. I will occasionally exceed that 10 mph over thing then. LOL Don't want anyone to get the wrong idea! Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #67 – December 17, 2010, 10:50:02 PM Maybe I should just BUY your car from you when you are finished! :) This is almost exactly what I have planned on doing. But I'm not sure if I'll do the CarPC. I'm interested to know how you will mount the screen in the center dash stack. I have been looking at the Double DIN DVD, NAV, etc. units and just wondering how to make it look good.Keep up the great work! Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #68 – December 20, 2010, 08:14:59 PM Thanks, but I'll be keeping it for a while I hope! I got a bunch of parts in and more ordered. I have a Stinger single 3" exhaust coming to tie in with my downpipe. I'll put on a Summit cat and ler to round it out. Picked up a 3" Al pipe with a 34mm BOV combo and some more relays and junk to finish up the electrics. Got an electric fuel pressure gage to mount in place of the clock along with an overdrive cancel led and an led and switch for the wideband. I haven't even touched on the final fuel system stuff other than to replace the entire tank harness with a good one, but it's almost time to get on that. I'll have to yank off the accessory brackets to blast and paint them before final assembly time. Still have to mount the rad, IC and condenser, and run the tranny lines but I picked up line, hardware, and everything to do it. I did get the trans fill tube in. It came up right into the downpipe area, so I bent it, cut off the mount bracket, and rewelded it to catch a different bolt. Looks factory I think. I had my battery cables run in through the interior but didn't like it so I'm gonna re-do them under the car next to the pax subframe. Harness is all done at this point except for the relays for the fan and the final connections once the dash harness comes through. All the grounds are made up and most are bolted on. I blasted and painted the throttle cable steel parts since they looked like .Blasted and painted the heater pipes and got new hoses for 'em. Picked up the last of the fittings for the Holset oil lines, just need a length of -4 and to modify the oil log. I may have to notch the frame a bit to get a straight run on the -10 oil drain. I won't put a 90 on it because I've ruined one turbo from a drain restriction. That part of the frame rail can stand to have a section cut back and notched with no ill effects I believe. Oh, I also have decided to run the turbo with no water cooling. It'll allow me to hack the center section up enough to get the turbo clocked properly for the drain angle. The cooling was largely due to the variable vane electronics and sleeve anyway. I'm not using either, so screw it!I decided to mount the Baumann under the pax seat, and the MS in the kick panel. It's a bit tight to get both computers in the kick panel. I picked up a capacitor for the line in to MS and it's in the kick also.I was reading up on using MS for boost control, and I believe it will control the old BCS, or I can use the EGR solenoid off the Explorer engine. I'm running a wire for it just in case. I'll use a bleeder valve for now. It will be controlling the high speed on the fan. Maybe high and low if I can use the EDIS IDM wire to trigger my tach. That remains to be seen. It wouldn't work in my TR7, but there are differences in the EDIS boxes over the years. If it won't work I might use it to fire a relay to trigger the tach, or use MS tach out off a spare output if that fails. The tachs can be a pain when using EDIS.I have a few days of work , then some time off, so I hope to get the dash in around Christmas.I'd sure like to be firing it up by Feb. 1. Pictures coming when I post up next time.OH, to answer your question Shredder, the display I'm using comes with a headrest mount that it snaps into. It is only an inch and a half deep or so, and almost perfectly fits in the place of the head unit and eq. It's only a matter of tpuppies the steel bar that runs behind the panel and tpuppies back the plastic enough to get the mounting shroud in and secured with a couple of steel straps right to the plastic surround. It's actually gonna be easier than I first thought to do it. Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #69 – December 23, 2010, 07:50:36 AM I'm irritated. I had a friend come over to help put in the dash last night, but it didn't happen. I don't have the gaskets for in between the heater box and the firewall.sigh. Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #70 – December 23, 2010, 10:21:40 AM Great, I found another box of parts and 2 of the seals. Too bad I won't have any help around for a while! Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #71 – December 25, 2010, 03:57:01 PM Nice little build you have going.V8 Turbo Coupe's should have come factory.I have a T6 that i'm going to be slaping on my 460 in a few months. Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #72 – December 26, 2010, 07:28:10 AM Quote from: SirChirpAlot;347058Nice little build you have going.V8 Turbo Coupe's should have come factory.I have a T6 that i'm going to be slaping on my 460 in a few months. Thanks!I guess Ford always thought of turbos as being part of a fuel efficiency strategy for 4 cylinders. I do wonder why manufacturers didn't turbo/supercharge V8's more than they did.A T6 460 will be one bad boy! Take some pics of that project for us!I'm trying to get all the instrumentation to work without adding too many extra gauges. The Ebay FP gage showed up, and looks nice for 50 bucks. I forgot to include the wires for it in the harness, so have to do that before I go any farther.On a whim I bought this on Ebay:I'm going to see how it'll look in place of the ammeter in the cluster. Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #73 – December 31, 2010, 10:57:47 AM Pictorial update:Got a 3" Stinger exhaust.Made a place for the FP gauge in the clock housing. I like it. The rectangular places at the bottom of the gauge will get LED's for OD deselected indication, and for a water injection fluid low light. Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #74 – December 31, 2010, 11:00:13 AM I decided to go with a Dakota Digital fan controller for simplicity's sake. That meant I needed a matching fan control sending unit and a place to mount it. The thermostat water neck seemed as good a place as any, so drilled and I tapped it for 3/8-18 NPT.The fan controller is mounted in-car according to docs, that means running a few more wires in to the cabin Quote Selected
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