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Topic: Rear Deck Speaker Question (Read 6082 times) previous topic - next topic

Rear Deck Speaker Question

Reply #15 –
The blue lines are where I'm going to cut the braces out...

the area in the center is where the rear center folddown armrest is..


Rear Deck Speaker Question

Reply #16 –
the black area is where the 3/4 MDF will be. all the way across. It will also be the front of the sub box (shown in yellow) The silver spots are the fastening points. I will have to rivit a L bracket at the bottom going all the way across for added support.

this will put the sub in the center of the armrest.

I'm going to cut out the middle of the tray area out and add MDF with 4 5X7 cut outs for the rear speakers..

this will put the sub in the center of the armrest.

there is a net type material that is in the opening when the arm rest is down... it will protect the sub from objects...

so, what do you think??


Rear Deck Speaker Question

Reply #17 –
Thought about cutting out the 2 diagonal braces and using 2 12" subs?

Use free air subs, and seal off the trunk housing. A plus will be a little more "solidness" in the rear...(not the kind some Ex-Lax can cure lol)

I probably wouldn't cut out the center brace...but it's not my car..
'84 Mustang
'98 Explorer 5.0
'03 Focus, dropped a valve seat. yay. freakin' split port engines...
'06 Explorer EB 4.6

Rear Deck Speaker Question

Reply #18 –
Quote from: ThunderbirdSport302;330815

I probably wouldn't cut out the center brace...but it's not my car..


My thoughts, exactly. That bracing adds a lot of "stability(?)" to the car's chassis. More than one might think.
If worms had daggers, birds wouldn't f**k with 'em

Rear Deck Speaker Question

Reply #19 –
I thought about that also, but the 3/4 MDF sheet going all the way across plus being fastened in multiple spots should take care of any lost support from that brace.
 I already have the sub, so that's what I have to work with... I had this stereo in my 06 F250 and it sounded awesome.

Rear Deck Speaker Question

Reply #20 –
Why not install the sub in the top of the deck firing up? And why install 5x7's in the deck if you're putting 6.5's in the rear quarters?

Other than that, looks like a good project. Installed 2 12's firing up through the deck earlier this summer, lot of work but worth it.
87 Thunderbird 5.0
Engine: 97 p-code explorer block, heads, and intake; 88 HO cam, 1.7 RR's, A9P, Kenne Bell 2.1 Flow/Blow 8psi, 42lb injectors, LMAF, 75mm TB, Tuned by Don Lasota
Trans: 02 Stang 4r70w with Baumann TCS
Suspension: Front: 03-04 cobra springs and struts, TC rack. Rear: CHE arms, ChuckW shock mounts, Bullitt springs and shocks
5 bolt with 95 mustang front and mark vii rear.
TC 3.73 L/S rear
03-04 SVT Cobra 17x9's with 275/40r17's.

Rear Deck Speaker Question

Reply #21 –
Quote from: a77cj7;331442
Why not install the sub in the top of the deck firing up? And why install 5x7's in the deck if you're putting 6.5's in the rear quarters?

Other than that, looks like a good project. Installed 2 12's firing up through the deck earlier this summer, lot of work but worth it.


do have any pictures of your install....

 I'm just using the speakers that I already have... they are 4ohm speakers and I plan to run 2 sets on the front channel and 2 sets on the rear channels which will give me the 2ohm's that I'm looking for.
  can you have to many speakers??

Rear Deck Speaker Question

Reply #22 –
You should have the sub fireing into the trunk area and drill for 2 3" ports at the arm rest. The you can folt the arm rest down and let the bass in. I did that along time ago with a set of 2 12" in a ported enclosure. I ran the ports up through the rear package tray. It had alot of bass.
1988 Thunderbird Sport. Work in Progress
5.8L swap w/fitech efi, 4R70W swap w/quick 4 controller, 2003 GT rear diff, 5 Lug swap

Bought this car back as an old project car.

:burnout:

Rear Deck Speaker Question

Reply #23 –
Quote from: 86caprirs;331547
You should have the sub fireing into the trunk area and drill for 2 3" ports at the arm rest. The you can folt the arm rest down and let the bass in. I did that along time ago with a set of 2 12" in a ported enclosure. I ran the ports up through the rear package tray. It had alot of bass.

No the correct way is to move the subs around in the location you want them firing all different directions, Then witch ever direction gives you the loudest bass, that is how you find the direction to point your subs. Here is something to think about when you do the port thing. Those ports are tuned to the box you put them into. So if you extend them or take them out of the box you just changed the tuning. The best way to get the most Bass in your ride would be to seal the front of the woofers to the cabin area. That would be sealing the trunk off from the front of the car. That way any sounds waves bouncing around the truck area don't cancel out the sound waves in the cabin.

Stuckman
84 Turbo coupe 2.3T Modded with 88 upper and lower intake, 88 injectors, E6 manifold, T3-4 AR.60 turbo, 31X12X3 FMIC, Homemade MBC , Greddy knock off BPV.
4 eyes see better than 2! 
Da Bird!

FreeBird

Rear Deck Speaker Question

Reply #24 –
Quote from: ipsd;332633
No the correct way is to move the subs around in the location you want them firing all different directions, Then witch ever direction gives you the loudest bass, that is how you find the direction to point your subs. Here is something to think about when you do the port thing. Those ports are tuned to the box you put them into. So if you extend them or take them out of the box you just changed the tuning. The best way to get the most Bass in your ride would be to seal the front of the woofers to the cabin area. That would be sealing the trunk off from the front of the car. That way any sounds waves bouncing around the truck area don't cancel out the sound waves in the cabin.

Stuckman


ported box is out of the question.... I do not want the booming type bass.... I want TIGHT bass which means a sealed box... I don't listen to RAP music... Neil Young, Ted Nugent, etc (I'm 52yrs old)

when I had this system in my 2006 F-250 Crew Cab... I used the JL Stealthbox which fit inside the console between the bucket seats... there again, being  a sealed box, firing down toward the carpet (this was a very nice design by JL ) it produced tight bass.. It was like being at a concert, in the front of the stage....

I think that my drawing showing a sealed box firing at the back seat through the bulkhead im installing is going to be ok...??

Rear Deck Speaker Question

Reply #25 –
So then some 10" subs then for the tight bass.
1988 Thunderbird Sport. Work in Progress
5.8L swap w/fitech efi, 4R70W swap w/quick 4 controller, 2003 GT rear diff, 5 Lug swap

Bought this car back as an old project car.

:burnout:

Rear Deck Speaker Question

Reply #26 –
Quote from: 86caprirs;332701
So then [SIZE="3"]some 10" subs[/SIZE] then for the tight bass.


you don't think (1) 10" is going to be enough??

Rear Deck Speaker Question

Reply #27 –
been raining for the last couple days so the stereo install has been grounded... sucks not having a garage... anyways, while I had the dash out, I installed the speaker wires going through the body to the doors... very easy with the dash out.

Speaker wire is JL Audio 12ga


Rear Deck Speaker Question

Reply #28 –
here is the left front  speaker wires.... I also re-taped the entire harness...

Rear Deck Speaker Question

Reply #29 –
Well you said you are an old man....LOL Kidding. One may be enough. Or you can go with 1 Kicker L7 10" square sub in the rear deck.
1988 Thunderbird Sport. Work in Progress
5.8L swap w/fitech efi, 4R70W swap w/quick 4 controller, 2003 GT rear diff, 5 Lug swap

Bought this car back as an old project car.

:burnout: