I was curious if anyone has gone down the path of a complete aftermarket gauge install on the 83-84 cars as I have only seen a couple.
deathbypsi used what looks to be an ABS plate attached to the trim ring around the instrument cluster (one with the AC vent) and used some angled adapters on the speedo and tach and it looks like this:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/deathbypsi.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
1WLD BRD also did one and his plate appear to be behind the trim ring around the cluster and looks like this:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/1WLD_BRD.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Has anyone else done this on an 83 or 84 car? If so can you throw me the link to the thread or if no thread post some pics? I am starting on one for my 83 and have a good idea on how its going to happen but I am not opposed to "borrowing" someone else's way of doing it to save myself any mistakes. I am taking pictures and making notes so when I get done or as progress happens I will start a thread on how I do mine in case anyone else wants to do this the way I end up doing it or just borrow ideas.
1WLD BRD found out that you have to put a keyed 12V+ to the green/red stripe wire in the instrument cluster wires to get the alternator to charge so I have made note of that.
Don't know how much it will help but there are a few photos on this page:
https://www.coolcats.net/modifying/#interior
Click the 'Custom Gauges' tab. The photos were from pro-street cars that pretty much eliminated the vents but it does give some cool ideas nonetheless.
I knew I saw one more somewhere and for the life of me could not remember. Thanks for the reminder. I really like the pro street one but I am not loosing my AC here in Oklahoma. I think I am leaning towards something like what 1WLD BRD did on his dash. I already have three gauges (fuel pressure, water temp, and oil pressure) over in the passenger side dash panel with some PVC pipe angle mounts I made on the table saw.
Angle brackets drying after paint:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/IMG_3802.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Mounted in the passenger dash trim:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/IMG_3852.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/IMG_3843.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
View from driver seat (tach and shift light are no longer there):
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/IMG_3861.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
So what I have left is the speedo, tach, volt, and fuel level which will be installed in the instrument cluster. I also have a billet tbird emblem that I had made and I am working on figuring out how to put the turn signals in the wings and the high beam in the body of it.
So here are the shots of the factory instrument cluster stripped down to just the housing.
Front:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Gauge_Pod_-_Front.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Back:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Gauge_Pod_-_Back.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Top:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Gauge_Pod_-_Top.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Bottom:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Gauge_Pod_-_Bottom.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Left End:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Gauge_Pod_-_Left_End.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Right End:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Gauge_Pod_-_Right_End.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
This is the black trim piece that goes in between the instrument housing and the dash trim. There is also a clear lens that goes on the front of the black trim piece but I am not going to use that.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Gauge_Pod_Trim_-_Front.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
These are pictures of the black trim piece with the stripped instrument housing:
Front:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Gauge_Pod_Trim-_Front.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Top:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Gauge_Pod_Trim_-_Top.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Bottom:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Gauge_Pod_Trim_-_Bottom.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Left End:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Gauge_Pod_Trim_-_Left_End.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Right End:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Gauge_Pod_Trim_-_Right_End.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Pictures of the instrument housing with the middle cut out of it.
Front:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Gauge_Pod_-_Front_with_Middle_Cut_Out.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Back:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Gauge_Pod_-_Back_with_Middle_Cut_Out.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Left End:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Gauge_Pod_-_Left_End_with_Middle_Cut_Out.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Right End:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Gauge_Pod_-_Right_End_with_Middle_Cut_Out.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
My idea here is to use a flat piece of 18 ga. steel that will be cut to fit the front of the instrument housing. The steel flat piece will be notched such that it will allow the black trim piece to fit the tab on the left and right side of the instrument housing as well as the nipple on the bottom of the housing and the factory screws will secure all three pieces together. Will use hole saws to make the openings in the steel piece for the gauges. Once its all fit up then I will take it back apart and paint the steel piece.
The steel piece is the reason I am leaving the plastic lens out of the arrangement as they are about the same thickness. That is its not necessary with the Autometer gauges. I guess putting this off for over five years is paying off as I looked at this multiple times and just was not sure how to go about it. I literally was just looking at the two pieces from the side and that is when the plate idea hit me and then I saw how 1WLD BRD did his and liked the result.
Sounds easy enough so I am sure there will be issues...
Well after digging around I literally found that Autometer has the angled rings for the 2-1/16" gauges here:
https://www.autometer.com/2-1-16-angle-rings-pack-of-3.html
and angled rings for the 2-5/8" gauges here:
https://www.autometer.com/2-5-8-angle-rings-pack-of-3.html
Mine just cost me time as I had the PVC pipe and paint but these would have been easier.
I am pretty sure this has been covered but I wanted to bring this up in case anyone else goes down this road. It is not that you do not want to use an LED for the battery indicator light in the dash you just have to understand its function to use an LED.
It is my understanding (will defer to anyone else that has a better explanation) that our cars have an incandescent light bulb (paralleled by a resistor in the printed circuit board) for the battery indicator lamp. The bulb is inline between the ignition switch and the regulator for the alternator. As long as the voltage from the battery is lower than what the alternator is putting out the battery indicator light will illuminate. Once the alternator is generating more voltage than the battery then the light will go out. This makes sense being the light comes on when the ignition is switched to on and the engine is not running the battery indicator light illuminates. When the engine is running and the alternator is making more voltage (typically higher than 12.7 volts) than the battery is putting out the light goes out.
The reason for the resistor installed parallel to the battery indicator lamp is in case the lamp fails the resistor will keep the alternator charging and not leave you stranded. So if your lamp is burned out and the car is not charging don't forget about the resistor if you have exhausted the usual suspects (bad alternator or blown fusible links) and before you start chasing a wiring issue.
The reason for the incandescent light is the resistance of the bulb (2 watts or 160 mA at 12V) is needed to trigger the transistor (which I believer are in the voltage regulator and take about 60 mA to trigger) into conducting which then results in the alternator producing a voltage higher than the battery which turns the battery illumination light out. Prior to the transistor triggering the alternator to charge it sinks current through the lamp and gives a path to ground hence the lamp illuminating. That took me some time to digest and googling some terms to I could wrap my brain around that.
So basically the incandescent light is needed to trigger the alternator to start charging and then when the voltage out of the alternator is higher than the static battery voltage the transistor is no longer sinking the lamp to ground and the light goes out.
The use of an LED by itself (resistance is 20-30 mA) for the battery indicator will not generate enough resistance to create the needed amperage to get the alternator to charge. You can make it work with a diode wired in series but upstream of the LED and a resistor wired in parallel with the LED. The way I understand it is the diode is there to keep the battery from going dead by back feeding to a ground. I think it would have to sit a loooong time but its possible.
I found this wiring diagram that shows how to go about wiring what I have described above:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/LED_Alternator_Warning_Light.png?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds)
I am going to use an LED and wire it just like this and with the same values on the diode and resistor. Hopefully this works as I am using LED's on the turn signals and hi beam indicators. Again, if I have misspoke or provided false information please correct me as this is not my area of expertise by any means. I am pretty good at 12V stuff (alarm and car audio back ground) but by no means an expert.
I hope that works...on paper it looks correct.
Had to do something similar on my '86 when I put the aftermarket gauges in. I was all excited to finally have them calibrated and working that I forgot about hooking up the wires for the old warning light. Funny how I remembered so clearly when I was 45 minutes from home and had to be flat-bedded back on the tow truck due to a dead battery from the alternator not charging. D'oh!
Anyway, all I did was just connect the wires with no resistor. There have been zero ill effects form that, and the alternator charges perfectly. FWIW.
Your setup looks awesome BTW. Can't wait to see the final product.
That looks like a lot of work, just to have a LED bulb in that one position! LOL
I would incandescant that sucker all day long.
I like the work you're doing. Thanks for the info on the LED warning light set-up.
I've thought about gauges for my car, but I also kind of like the stock look. Just wish there was more info. I hate A-pillar gauges, also.
I've also pondered if it was possible to make a digital dash that mimicked the stock look, but had important info included.
So it was more me wanting all of the indicator light assemblies to be the same and they do not make an incandescent one. These are Taiss units off Amazon that I will be using:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Taiss_Turn_Signal_Indicator(2).jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Taiss_Hi_Beam_Indicator(1).jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Taiss_Battery_Indicator(1).jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/Taiss_Turn_Signal_Indicator(2).jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds)
Ordered the diode and resistor but had to get five each so guess I have extras.
That makes total sense then. It will look really nice!
I am going to work on the 18 ga flat piece this weekend and if all goes well will have the gauges mocked up and if I like it I will drill the holes for the indicator lights and get it painted.
So made some progress the last couple of days. Traced the black trim panel onto a s of 18 ga metal and got that cut out.
Metal cut to fit:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/17BCC1BD-43F6-4743-A446-4F809971246C.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Metal Mocked up on the white instrument panel:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/D42A78A4-F047-43D0-9E62-4FCCE5B818FF.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
With the black trim over the metal:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/DC6BF1DF-90EC-478C-BE6D-1292D3FB3753.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Panel screwed to plywood with the gauge holes cut out via bimetal hole saws and the drill press:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/28FB0135-0D7E-41E9-9132-86D8E43B055D.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Back together and you can see where I am going to have to relieve the trim piece at the top:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/2035AAB3-A921-45C7-9DCB-7CC462A6EFEA.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
I’m thinking a short piece of 3” PVC pipe split length wise in half with some sandpaper glued to it. Have the pipe and sand paper but no spray glue so about to head to Lowes.
Here are the gauges popped in the holes:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/0CDFD559-8659-43AD-A497-47F43C64FB5B.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Will post up some pics after I get the reliefs done and the panel painted.
Got the holes drilled for the turn signals, battery and high beam indicators.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/IMG_0600.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Panel is painted so its out in the 101 deg heat curing or melting...time will tell.
So I am not showing the metal plate painted all by itself as it looked like . Had debris in it the first time and it alligator skinned on me (not dry enough or at least that is what I chalked it up to) which would be due to me not being patient and wanting to see it all together. I took my time yesterday and wet sanded the plate down and hung it outside in the high heat, wiped it down with some brake cleaner, and then hung it in the shop as it was a lot lower in humidity due to the dehumidifier and window unit running full tilt. Shot it and it laid down so I left it there to hang for the week. The black trim piece came out pretty good and the paint laid down good so its hanging this week as well.
So this is the picture I took of the cluster with the metal plate on its first paint job, gauges installed and the trim piece worked so you can see all of the gauge trim ring. Rough but you get the idea.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/79696FF0-31B9-436E-9AF9-090E67CCF224.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Spent some additional time shaping the reliefs on the black trim piece which was a bit of a pain as I am limited on body working tools so had to improvise. I used a 2" PVC coupler, 3" PVC, and 4" PVC with sand paper spray glued to them to remove material from the trim piece.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/8248B7D4-8DCF-4661-896E-434402AABF05.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
This is the metal plate hanging after the brake cleaner wipe down:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/3CCFE004-7472-4E59-865D-E3B1A79A52F3.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
And this is the trim piece handing after being shot:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/60EA2B62-57EC-4AD9-A301-00B91C45900F.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Should get back on it this coming weekend and get it all put together and wired up at a minimum. If things go well dash will come out of the car and it will go in.
Looks great!
I plan to eventually 3D print a base for a custom cluster in my '87.
I inquired as we have a lot of shops here in the Tulsa area that cater to the airline industry. They were guessing around $700 so I figured doing it by hand and understanding it would not be perfect was worth a shot. What I was thinking initially was the two pieces (white instrument housing, and the black trim ring) would have to be scanned into a model, the model changed to fit the gauges, and then the two pieces printed is what I was thinking. Now after doing what I have done I would probably just have the black trim ring scanned, model modified to fit the gauges, and then printed. Maybe someday down the road as I still have my factory instrument cluster and can use the black trim ring out of that to scan.
Got the panel assembled. Will get it prewired later today.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/9B60B078-B011-469E-99AE-86EC1D0225AC.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Mocked up with my spare dash trim
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/6BF4A33F-0A5F-4999-BE5B-4D9F9C91ED6A.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Wired up and left long leads to tap the factory dash wires. Left the VSS signal wire off the speedo 12’ long so it will reach the transmission. No more speedo cable for this car. Will take the speedo cable apart, clean and lube to hold it back as a spare for the Coupe being Ford no longer makes them.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/DF4A6B0C-86BD-44F9-BE60-1B1D4747B444.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Sooo getting the original cluster out took waaay longer than I thought it would. Mostly me not remembering what all had to be removed to get it out which was basically everything.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/CFEB51C3-C396-459A-A1DB-7619C09DEC79.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/803E0EE8-299F-4615-AE86-15F81E591A12.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Gonna have to trim a little in the car and on the new cluster. The Autometer gauges have studs on the back to attach the mounting bracket and they are way long. They include thumb wheel nuts to affix the mounting bracket to the gauge that are long as well so those are coming off and going to machine nuts and lock washers and the studs will be trimmed. Hoping that will be all that is necessary as the driver side left dash vent air duct is right behind the cluster.
Had to throw it in and get an idea of how it’s going to look and I’m pretty stoked.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/249A7E72-2D49-4A9E-A5CE-A4C735FD90F8.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/407B14AF-3A19-4F98-B6E1-A0DF78ECC406.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
So I unwired the gauges so I could cut the gauge mounting studs down with the dremel and cutting wheel, removed the tabs off the center two gauges (where the ground, ignition, and sending unit wires land), and flattened the two tabs for the LED lighting.
You can see all of it here:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/94EC0C41-6D0C-4627-997E-E549143D2CD8.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Close up of the tabs that I removed off the back of the volt and fuel level gauges:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/5C249C93-CA37-4F28-A061-D8C0C83B6E0C.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Close up of the LED tabs on the volt and fuel level gauges that I flattened as well as that threaded studs that I will use the ring connectors on:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/E39E9649-E15D-4CA6-AADA-77157190B767.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Bought some 90 degree insulated spade connectors and will use those on the speedo and tach wiring to flatten that out. Will use ring connectors on the fuel and volt gauges where I removed the tabs as there are studs there. Should have it rewired this evening.
Gained about an inch so hopefully that does the trick.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/2FFCF27D-AE03-46BB-9A89-5C38D19EAA4C.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/8B8F63DA-8826-43FC-8602-7047B72F2531.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
That's a lot better! Great wiring solution also.
Just FYI, I had to cut out the back of the dash area on the '86 to get my Autometers to fit. I commend you for trying to not do that here...but if it comes down to it, you may need to. Just saying.
Yeah, I’m prepared to do it but just trying to mitigate how far back these go. The far left AC vent duct runs right behind the dash where the cluster installs. Cutting the back of the dash will get me another 1/4” to maybe 1/2”. Just trying to avoid having to modify that AC duct.
Whabam puppies’s!!! It fits and no tpuppies of the back of the dash!
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/54C5EE98-1F10-4680-83FE-5504CF785C93.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/5FADCA4F-6A46-4FB3-A70B-CC99B499952A.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Now back to wiring it up and putting all the pieces back together.
Everything works. Pic with the shop lights off and the park lights on.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/yy142/dbrune_83/D5BF2BD4-1A5F-48CD-B625-83DED4F91D4F.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
Looks great!
What's the left gauge on the panel above the glove box?
Appreciate it as it was a long time coming and I like it. Will get back on it in a couple weeks and see about getting the speedo calibrated. I am going off of what I have read on a few Mustang sites that the Autometer speedo will utilize the signal coming off of the stock 94/95 Mustang VSS. This is with one wire grounded and the other one going to the SIG connection on the speedo. I found where the black and green/white stripe wires from the factory VSS connector on my car came into the cabin and followed them up to just behind the radio area on the driver side. Cut the wires there (I have no EEC and cruise control is long gone) and grounded the black wire and took the green/white stripe to the SIG terminal on the speedo. The VSS connector on my car was pretty dirty but a little scrubbing with some WD40 and an old toothbrush got it clean. Followed that up with some contact cleaner and a little light bulb grease and it connected right up to the 94/95 Mustang VSS.
I saw on Eric's site (https://www.coolcats.net/instrument-clusters/) that he had the clusters for the different year cars and the 83-84 base cluster had the pin outs for the cluster connector. Just wanted to give Eric a shout out for having that and I can verify that it is correct. I cannot verify #5 as the speed input as I did not chase that out but it helped with all the other connections.
So with regards to what gauge is where I have a 3-3/8" speedo, 3-3/8" tach, 2-1/8" fuel level and 2-1/8" volt in the instrument cluster itself. Fuel pressure, oil pressure and water temp are above the glove box with the angled adapters. I used 2-5/8" on these as they are easier to read at distance.
If the black trim ring around the instrument cluster did not have the angle on the top of it (where I had to remove the material with the pvc pipe and sand paper) I think you could squeeze one more 2-1/8" gauge in there but it would be tight.
Dang son! Awesome looking setup.