I have been trying to get a torque converter from Luver770 since March 21 of this year. First one got damaged and never arrived. Been fighting with guy ever since. He is no longer answering emails. The listing is item number 120918448572 it is for a big shot torque converter. I bought a 3500 of the same the year before from him with no problems. What me off is I recommended him to a buddy of mine who also got ripped off. I opened a dispute with ebay when I found out there was a problem with package saying it got sent to the undeliverable warehouse in Ontario, Canada. So anyways ebay suggested I resolve the case without escalading it any higher and also the guy said ebay put a hold on the money from his paypal account so he couldn't send it until I closed the case and paypal released the hold on his paypal account, like a fool I dropped the case and a few days later it was past 45 days and he said the converter was on the way a couple times since then, but nothing not even tracking number. I contacted ebay through phone on Tuesday and they won't help at all, they said I should have acted before the 45 days was up, but they are the ones who said to drop the case if possible, that is another thing that is eating me up. The listing says the item was in Aston, Pennsylvannia I got a phone number
(267) 420-0678
I tried phoning but it says the call cannot be completed from my area code. Is this a real business can anyone check this out from the US.
I really haven't been having luck with converters I bought 3 this year, and nothing I can use has arrived. Man a guy just can't win.
I have been wondering how much compression is too much to daily drive? My 400 sbc going into the s10 is sitting just over 11 to 1. The Big thumpr cam should bring the compression down slightly, but it'll still sit around 11 to 1. I have a set of Iron race heads. A thicker head gasket will still have the compression sitting a little high. I don't really wanna go dish pistons cause then it'll go way down, but 76cc heads would do the trick, but I just had these heads ported, polished, rebuilt and drilled steam holes into em. Does anyone have experiences in this situation.
Well, my 93 thunderbird's trans finally started slipping in all gears down visiting my girlfriend. This is what I picked up across the street from where I broke down....
Just wondering if anyone has tried E3 plugs?? I tried em TWICE and DIDN'T like em, noticeable power LOSS! I was watching gears and they posted a 7 hp gain on a 440?? Is there a part of the equation I am missing?? I really liked the denso iridium, but they sure don't last long... What are your guys experience with these E3 things (I call em spark blockers)
I have 96 cutlass supreme with a 3.4 DOHC that I use for work and road trips. It has high miles and I got for 900 bucks. I bought it on an impulse cause I was broke down didn't want to miss a day of work waiting for the bus the next day. I got 20K km on it since I bought it, put new tires and brakes, new fuel tank, fuel pump sending unit, etc. It needs lifters also, and I am waiting for them to arrive. I got new plugs and wires also just waiting on lifters to arrive to put em on. So anyways the car starts losing power, like it is running out of fuel or spark.
I thought it was a faulty fuel pump at first, cause it has happened before to me. Then I figured maybe fuel pressure regulator, but fuel pressure checked out. So then I am thinking coils or icm module. All checks out. So I take the car into my friends shop for a scan, and I said just scan and diagnose the problem if you can. He says sure it'll be $59.99 for a scan, I'm like yeah its worth it!
Well I go to pick up the car and the mechanic is on a road test, I am thinking great he is driving it looking for codes. Then this kid comes up to me here are your plugs they are worn out. I am like ok, I guess that is fine long as the problem is fixed.
Well the mechanic comes back and gets me in the shop and says the car is junk it won't run much longer, so I listen and I look at him, that is just lifter tick I got new ones coming been running the car like that for 6 months. So apparently the problem is so bad the car barely moves. I go to the office to pay the bill and bang $422 for changing plugs and scanning the car. So I say I told you not to take anything apart just to scan the car and do a road test. Then the mechanic says he thought that would fix it. So whatever I pay the bill limp the car home, and think about what just happened.
I start looking at the scan,
transmission component slipping (Worn out valve body, to high line pressure and it throws codes, common problem)
O2 Sensor short or malfunction (I took the cat out so that is that)
Knock sensor short or malfunction (not sure ordered new one just in case)
EGR pintle location error (unplugged for more part throttle power)
I start to think about what is going on with the car and realize the knock sensor is probably the culprit so I get a new, and I couldn't wait any longer, take the whole upper manifold off, coil packs, rear egr piping and start feeling around the worst place on earth to put a knock sensor only to find it is unplugged! I can't feel or see the pigtail ANYWHERE! So now I got one or two options, take the rear head off or take the right tire off, axle half, alternator and hope I can see or reach it better. I don't know does anyone have any experience with these horrible creations that are the worst things to work on I have ever seen....I am all ears as my chiltons manual sucks and is missing info on the 3.4 dohc
I just had a new billet aod torque converter made for my cougar, the shaft that goes into the converter is too small. Is this an an aode converter? Or am I missing something.
I was just wondering if anyone has tried the muthr thumpr cam or big muthr thump cam for 302? Though I seen a listing on ebay for small block ford 302, my buddy has one in his 69 Camaro and it is pretty choppy but still pretty driveable. Just wondering how the ford one is...
I am looking for the cup that sits on the top of the front cab mount for an 82 s10. I can't get these in Canada right now, 8 week wait. It is the piece that goes under the floor, the front drivers and passenger side are so rusted they are gone so I don't even know what they look like????
I picked up a slightly rusty 83 Chevy S10 lowrider truck for $1700 the other day. It has a carbed 305 with a TH350 trans. The thing is pretty tired, has blowby and other problems, the edelbrock carb being one of em. It came with a stock 400 small block from a truck that was running propane. I have a set of pro comps, mug thumpr cam, air gape intake, quickfuel manual secondary 750 carb, 1.6 rockers a nice rad with fans just sittin in the shop that I bought for another project I ended up selling. Any idea how the 400 will run with this stuff? I never had a small block chev before other than 305s that were just as doggy and tired and a soso 283 in a camaro. Got the interior gutted (leaking from the roof antenna, thought it was the windshield), and the suspension needs attention. Will post some pics tomorrow.
I got a guy in Vancouver his name is Shane, and he has had this 81 Black Magic capri for a couple years for sale. It is a non matching 5.0 from a 79 mustang. Needs brake lines and master cylinder to run, interior carpet and headliner is shot. T-top car. Missing original wheels. Needs paint. I got em down to $900 if I come tow the car away.
Just wondering on the rarity of the car and would a non matching engine affect the status of the car? My buddy had a crimson cat before I never seen a black magic in person before, are they more rare?
I got the motor pulled out of my 87 cougar. And the transmission is BURNT UP! I never would have guessed, even some broken pieces inside and toasted converter. I had only three thousand miles on it. I do have a trans go shift kit with 5000 rpm shift governer. I have read about using the newer aode parts from ford vans, but I most of what I read is pretty vague on what parts you need to make a better transmission. I'd really like to be able to hold some rpm on O/D, it wants to shift into od early, I can never pass 4000 rpm at WOT in od. Also what trans brake works best, and I am even thinking about putting a heavy duty trans cooler in. I'd like 3rd and 4th to be closer as well, they are way too far apart!
This aod was supposed to good for 500hp, but I killed it with under 400! It never really did much other spill your drink and jerk your neck when it shifted. I think it may have been burnt up right away as first and second gears never really accelerated like they should. Couldn't even do a burnout really, I had a grand national that did the same thing, ended up being the wrong valve body.
OK I know the 93 tbird is not a Fox body car, but I am getting conflicting information about this!! I have a C6 that came with the 351C, and I can see it is a big block bolt pattern for the transmission so a C4 or aod WILL NOT bolt onto it, but I got some guy who I am trying to order parts from says it WILL bolt on. I think he has his windsors and clevelands mixed up! Now I gotta be missing something here, is there some sort of bell housing adapter I don't know about?? Also I know I need a Lokar kickdown cable, but else is needed for this swap? What flexplate and torque converter do I need? Also are there specific motor mounts needed?
I got my champion aluminum rad with dual electric fans installed a couple weeks ago, and I have been losing water ever so slightly at first (I thought it was coming from where I bypassed the heater core, but I was wrong), now it is leaking at a good rate. Sounds like it is coming from where the end tank is welded on at the upper rad hose side. Gotta take it out and do a pressure test hopefully it can be fixed. I had a similar problem with a be cool radiator from my camaro, I guess it happens from time to time with these aluminum rads, I have also had bad luck with aluminum intercoolers as well. Anyways hopefully the seller backs his product up.
I am trying to found out if a nice set of heads will quicken the spool time of a turbo. I do know from experience that upgrading heads will lower boost pressure, but I finding conflicting info regarding spool up times with better heads. Now I do know a good set of heads can net a gain of up to 100hp in certain applications; also, aluminum heads seem to resist detonation more than steel heads. Now if good heads can gain 80ish hp on an NA motor, this must also improve spooling if the engine breathes easier. I just wanna know from someone who has experience in this area, I am assuming a decent turbo grind cam can help spool also, but I also heard that the stock cam is pretty decent for turbocharging already. Just wondering where should I focus my energy this winter on the cougar.
