I have *********WAY TOO MANY********** and its a sin to waste them.
I want this to be a serious topic for serious times by serious people who are not asleep. I am considering a zero dollar cost idea to network us all together on one platform that will eventually piss off the globalists.
i'll find that stuff and maybe do a youtube review. I was going to use candle wax and torch,, it wicks in as it gets heated. check out the vids on using wax on bolts to loosen them.
For the bolts,, ive thought about an alternative ,, use threaded studs with nuts custom cut to length. i actually dont want to put the oem bolt kit back in if i have to. ive seen those Long shank bolts corroded down 50% or more of their original thickness.
now i think of it,, maybe stainless threaded stock would be the best. then from now and until next time all i have to do is take off all the Nylock nuts i imagine i would use.
I think step 1 is to heat each bolt before i losen then,, and maybe use my batt powered impact set on its lowest setting possible to shock each bolt loose.
rotated crank to tdc and the piston was really high which sorta sounds good. I observed the rotor button location and it appeared to be a tad bit too far away from dizzy cap #1 post than normal even with 12 or so deg BTDC figured in.
so............ i figured there's only one thing left to do in order to be 99.9% sure i jumped time so i did a compression test on a few random cylinders. cly 1, 2, 3, 5 & 6 all had about 90psi.
this low reading on each is equal wish is good. it also tells me that the likelyhood i jumped ONE tooth might just be the case due to having such a high psi in my broken state.
so.......................................... now i will pray all the timing cover bolts come out. if they dont,, well, thats going to really suck but i suppose thats what a drill and thread repair kits are made for.
I think for this situation i am in, i will be removing the header panel and front bumper cover & bumper. Life is going to be so much easier doing this job with the motor in the car. at 375k miles though.......urrgh.
what i am actually attempting to do is run this rotella 15w40 motor for as long as i can to set some sort of personal record which i hope other people here have tried or are doing. Proving its hard to break a pushrod motor is finally becoming mainstream on a lot fo the car channels on youtube lately. All these miles are highway i might add,, well 80% of them are.
codes are pointless, i needed to take the coug batt over to the bronco yesterday. then charge the bronco's for the coug. i could pull memory codes i guess
spraying fuel in the TB did not generate a hint of the engine even wanting to "hit",, just engine whirl , no hits
no blown fuses in my fuse panel or my remote slave relay fuse panel
5.2v on my 5v reference up in the engine bay
did not swap in "another" TFI on the dizzy.
I did check timing and it appears i cant see the marks show up so it looks like i jumped time. compression test would have confirmed i bet.
tomorrow i will dial the crank to zero TDC and pull the #1 plug then feel where the piston is with a screw driver. im 90% sure i jumped time but tomorrow will tell me more. I'm betting #1 piston is way down the tube.
forgot to mention........... A very good/ reliable threadd insert for making a drain plug is a product called a "JACK NUT" drill hole use high temp washer(s) on each side goober some high temp jbweld on the inside/outside surface of pan tighten bolt and it crimps in place. the bolt you use to install the jack nut becomes your drain plug.
I think there is a bulkhead fittings (think above ground swimming pool penetrations) that would also work well.
all the above requires no welding. just the drilling of a hole.
wow,, old thread but. pro-tip 2 use a banjo fitting on the bottom of your oil and trans pan. use a hyd hose from your oil pan and dress /secure hose towards the outboard "side area" of your car. your hyd hose will have a JIC fitting / cap on the end.,,, same for trans pan. now,, to change fluids, stoop down and with one hand locate where you have your hose clipped to. take off the end cap and drain into pan.
this application has existed in big rig / military rigs etc for decades. its time we stop crawling under our cars for oil changes,, its 2023
i got to nothing today,, and perhaps maybe tomorrow either due to temps outside but i may try anyway. today got absorbed by property tax, some misc shopping then getting back to find out my partition in cyber monday is required.
i'll make a list.... pull codes inject fuel into the TB to see if the motor even hits check for blown fuses check timing check compression check misc 5v ckts maybe swap in another TFI spare just to be sure i didnt swap a bad for bad
no fuel smell, it didnt take me many cranks to get the information i have now. all in i have about 20min into this troubleshooting.
i hear you on the timing set!!,, new set still in the box. I have been afraid to mess with the bolts on the timing cover ,, them breaking off or something. i am absolutly postive there is a substantial amount of slack that the eec is maxed out on how much it can compensate for.
the 20th is my daily driver still. it just failed to start today. It was out 4 days ago. i hooked up a fuel pres tester during cranking to conclude that the pump was moving fuel. I will check the timing tomorrow morning,, should've dont that already but didnt think to I will also random check a couple 5v ckts in the engine bay. and ,,, duh,, i guess i will pull codes & might as well compression test also while im troubleshooting this. I may make it a youtube on my "I Fix It All" channel. t i may title it "Ford 5.0L- you have AIR, Fuel and spark yet no start". yes this may sound misleading because its likely impossible but....... stranger things have happened. On a positive note though atleast im not dealing with canbus stuff!
i do have my ign sw start & run & accy ckts slave relayed out proper for many years now. no modifications to speak of though,, all original ,, never opened up , been running rotella 15w40 since 08 when i got it from a seller here.
i agree on the pip comment,, but i dont even get a hint that it even sounds like its going to fire,,, it just sounds like its just spinning. I just thought that one way to determine if the pip is bad is to see if the injectors are getting eec signal. i was hoping to see no pulsing on the injector to confirm but it did pulse and rather quickly .
Yes impretty sure the caps could be redone as well,, ive got plenty of radial electrolytics to pick from. i think last i checked though i had to dig deep for the proper 10uf one on my son's 88bird. Im sure my 1990 351 bronco would appreciate the same attention.
try to finally wrap up my 87 coug that i started backin 17' and migrate all that threads info back into its related pics here on this platform since they all got omitted during some sort of transitoin.
fuel pres - 40psi during crank spark tester at a random plug wire shows pulsating light swapped remote ignitioin module (my mod to the TFI), still no start Noid light inserted into an injector plug , during crank the light blinks very quickly
so it apears i have spark, fuel and injector reaction but still no start.
i was under the impression that if the hall effect was bad that my noid light would not blink but it is and in my opinion it seems to blink whay quicker than i expect during crank. AS in i thought the injector would only blink when its respective stator would pass through the hull effect. what i am seeing is something like several blinks during a rotor button single revolution.
any suggestions or thoughts? im swapping the dizzy tomorrow meaing i have rebuild one beause my standby unit never got rebuilt like i intended way back when.
i am very surprised that i have everything i need for the engine to start & run. an almost impossible situation again lands in my lap.
if you hand craft for Christmas, this would be a good gift for your diy kind of person in your life,
subscribe if you like,, i have a lot of various content,,, although it may appear raised garden bed stuff is my gig,, it actually enslaved me for almost a full year.
