Skip to main content ↑ ↓

Messages

This section allows you to view all Messages made by this member. Note that you can only see Messages made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - slowfoxbird

1
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars FOR SALE / Parting out 88 Thunderbird Sport
Sorry for taking so long, work has been busy, as I said before, I get paid by the job, so if I'm on here and not wrenching, I'm not making money!  Haha!!  Got some pics of the car, and online, they can be seen here:  http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/slowfoxbird/thunderbird/      If you want shipped prices I will need zipcodes and then I will need to get them all boxed up and weighed so I can know how much shipping will be.  Romeo, the rear brake hoses are going with the rear end cause they will be needed by whoever gets the rearend cause its a whole conversion.  I have pics of the C/C plates in that link, they only have about 5000 miles on them, and are like brand new, just dusty from sitting, you can see where I wiped some dust off.
2
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars FOR SALE / Parting out 88 Thunderbird Sport
88Turbo.....  um yeah...... I don't really wanna pull wiring from the front of the car to the back.... You can come do it if you want to. LOL!!

Roy, yeah, Autolamps and keyless, I'll get you some pics as soon as I have the time.  Work is actually busy today, and seeing as how I get paid by the job.... Imma keep working for now.  I will get them to you soon though.
3
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars FOR SALE / Parting out 88 Thunderbird Sport
Vinnie: When I get around to pulling the engine out the timing cover is yours.

Fordguy, I'm in Leesburg which is in Lake County, between Orlando and Ocala.

Seek, PM me your email address and I can zip those pics over to you. 

Roy, PM me your email address and what you want pics of and I'll get them to you.

The car is at my work, so I only have time to do things inbetween jobs.

Thanks Guys!!
4
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars FOR SALE / Parting out 88 Thunderbird Sport
I'm a single dad that will never have time to finish this car.  I was driving it for years, and then needed a truck, so I got a truck, and now I'm tired of storing the car.

Rear end is out of a '96 Mustang, so it is the correct width for an 87 88 Bird or Cougar.  Built with 4.10 gear ratio and trac loc

5 lug conversion all the way around with 95 spindles, 96 brakes in the front

Ford Racing adjustable prop valve.

Maximum Motorsports C/C plates

Lemme know what you want on the rest of the car.  Its mostly good
5
Drivetrain Tech / '03 3.8 4r70w info?
If it's only going to be behind a 3.8, then there are no worries about the 3 or 4 int clutches.  A lot of times those things are model dependant, and you just build the thing with what it had in it, or modify it as needed if you are building a high performance engine/trans.  What it comes down to is that you are probably going to just have to pull the pump out and look.  Its not hard to do.
6
Drivetrain Tech / '03 3.8 4r70w info?
Just get a trans, and then pull the front pump out of it, and add an extra intermediate clutch and pressure plate if needed.  The pressure plate is different between the 3 clutch and the 4 clutch int.

I really don't think you will have a problem with a 4-2 downshift exhaust.  If that condition that I have never heard of even exists, I'm sure it is addressed in a quality shift improver kit.  Why are you worried about that anyway?
7
Drivetrain Tech / Transmission question
I dont think it would, but I am not 100% sure.  I do know that AODs do not have removable bellhousings, and that most of them bolt up to small block Fords.  The A4LD had a removable bellhousing and there for adapted to a different vehicle if the bolt pattern happens to be different.
8
Drivetrain Tech / transmission problems
After you adjust the cable properly, drive it again, if it is still doing it, and the fluid is not burnt, you might be looking at a broken input shaft.  When they break, you no longer have 3rd or 4th.
9
Suspension/Steering / Steering problems
Quote from: TurboCoupe50;224925
If it steers OK with the wheels in the air, problem isn't in the ball joints...

Sounds like a failed rotary valve in the rack, only solution is replace the rack...


That is a really good possibility too.  I have never seen a rack fail in that way, but its very possible.  I was just going off of my own experience, where with the wheels off the ground, the pump was able to overcome binding ball joints, but when the weight of the car was on them, it had a lot of trouble turning.  Weirdest part was that they were not noisy.
10
Suspension/Steering / Steering problems
That is a weird one.  Check for seized up lower ball joints.  You can check that by jacking one side up, taking the outer tie rod end off, and try turning the spindle by hand.
12
Drivetrain Tech / Rear end gear whine just low Lube?
Quote from: daboss351;223640
just replaced the whole carrier. and don't you need a meter to properly set the backlash??



Yes, you use a dial indicator to set backlash, unless you can measure .008-.013" with your hand.  Use a micrometer to measure pinion and carrier shims because the size markings usually wear off.  If you replace the carrier, its a good idea to reset the backlash at least, due to machining differences.
13
Drivetrain Tech / Rear end gear whine just low Lube?
Quote from: Ifixyawata;223577
And this rear end was supposedly out of a 12-second car...


That makes it even more likely that it is set up wrong.  You see that a lot, someone gets all wrapped up in trying to go fast cheap, and don't care if the gears whine or not.  It doesn't really damage anything, its just annoying.

http://www.mediafire.com/?e2v2hzma7zn   

for complete Ring & Pinion setup.

If you don't have access to the pinion shim set up tools, use the original shim as a guide, install the big pinion bearing, install pinion, check backlash, and adjust as necessary.  Like this  http://www.mediafire.com/?izz5m9bydn9
14
Drivetrain Tech / Rear end gear whine just low Lube?
The most common cause of rear end whine is a bad contact pattern on the ring and pinion.  This is caused by, as TurboCoupe50 said, bad set-up.  Incorrect backlash, or incorrect pinion depth will make noise.  A pinion bearing will usually be very loud, and make a whine with a grinding pitch to it.  Since the rear end you are talking about has 4.10s, we know that the ring and pinion has been replaced, so there is a really good chnace that a "Billy Bob" shop just installed the gears without setting them up properly, because that would take too much time and effort.
15
Suspension/Steering / Steering wheel shimmy/shake bad wheel bearings?
thunderjet, glad to hear that everything worked out for you and that the car is in top condition again! :)

jcassity:  I did take it personal, and I did take it as a put down, because when you reply to people on here, you rarely agree with anyone, and expect them to take your word as law. 

Now, about the piston, when you work in the real world of automotive repair, you see all kinds of crazy stuff that people do to their cars.  Most Ford vehicles have a minimum rotor thickness of 24.75mm.  Pads are 10mm per side, for a combined total of 20mm.  When you see a car come in that has a complaint of low brake pedal, and you diag the root cause as metal to metal of the pads and rotors, and fluid coming out from behind the piston.  It does not happen to every single car that goes metal to metal, but it does happen quite often.  So, even with brand new pads, you would still be missing almost 5mm from the minimum thickness of the disc, leading to even more chance of the caliper g fluid from behind the piston.

Maybe I forgot to mention that with everything assembled, (rotors, pads, calipers, and wheels bolted on) that you should get 2-3 turns, and that 1 would be OK if you are only turning the rotor by itself.  How would caliper mounted or unmounted make a difference in the number of rotations, unless you have a sticking caliper?  But you forgot to mention that if your idea were to work, you would need to find a way to secure the pads into the calipers themselves just to be on the safe side, seeing as how the caliper bolts go through the pads on an '89 Mustang.  Like you said, all it would take is a rebuild of the calipers to understand how they work.  That would let you know that the square cut piston seals flex outward toward the rotor when brakes are applied.  When the brake pedal is released, they go back to being square shaped, which will leave a small gap between the pads, which, worst case scenario, would allow the outboard pad to vibrate out, then you would really have a fluid leakage problem.  No dice?  When it comes to safety, staying alive is of the utmost importance, and I am not willing to roll those dice, "bro"
 
There is nothing wrong with putting a fuel gage on the windshield, its about the only way to see what the fuel pump is doing when put into real working situations.