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Messages - Masejoer

31
Engine Tech / Re: Troubleshooting persistent misfire
Got my new BE version working, Not sure yet on how to mess with the scaling on this newer software, but I got this close. With A 0~5 scale, my TPS graph also looks clean.



Not sure this is any problem area to look into.
32
Engine Tech / Re: Troubleshooting persistent misfire
Wow, that version of BE looks so different than my ancient BE2010!

And useful no doubt.

The only aftermarket electronics that I can think of are LEDs in various locations with their own driver boards (all powered off for the datalog), hid ballasts for my headlights (off), Mark VIII electric fan and DCControl PWM controller (not sure it ever turned on for this datalog), my old Viper alarm, Baumann 4r70w computer and innovate wideband, and the Quarterhorse Alternator was just replaced and it didn't change how the car ran, but obviously that's another potential source. Battery was replaced less than a year ago.

No car stereo/audio in there right now.

Edit:
Look at the scale differences. I know my tps was jittering mostly between 0.98-0.99V at CT. The scale you have of mine is 0.8-1.7V. Your scale is 0-5.3V, so the graph will hide noise, being 5 times wider.

Red herring?
34
Body/Appearance/Interior / Re: SN95 seats DON'T just "bolt to our tracks"?
I swear both of these seats feel like they sit more forward than stock, but the rear track bolts and sear-back hinge bolts are positioned in the same spot as the old seats. Perhaps these have more rear cushion, and the shorter seat bottoms are just giving me that illusion.

Would like both to have the seat tracks extended rearward a bit at some point.
35
Body/Appearance/Interior / Re: SN95 seats DON'T just "bolt to our tracks"?
The passenger manual tracks are already 14" spacing. This was mostly a bolt-in affair.

The 2003 Mustang seat frame is also flat on the passenger side. Driver side was the odd one out.

Measurements:



Mounted and clearance with a couple washers:




Installed in car (headrests to be installed after modification):
36
Engine Tech / Re: Troubleshooting persistent misfire
Won't get to datalogging today, but I did get the QH installed again. Injured 4th finger out of 5 on my right hand with more upholstery work...

J3 all cleaned up and installed with dielectric grease.

37
Engine Tech / Re: Troubleshooting persistent misfire
Quote from: Outsidedog – on
That looks pretty, so reading back through this post looks like you have swapped out a lot of things, as of right now what maf and injectors are on the car and around what afr are you shooting for? You also mentioned youve only changed CID what is your SARCHG at? Im trying to figure out if something is going on in your maf transfer or load scaling. Maybe once you get your computer going you can send me the .bin file. Ive had idle issues in the past ive been able to tune out with idle adjustments but thats not ideal. I feel like you probably want to get to the bottom of it. A good start may be a base idle relearn if you havent already

http://efidynotuning.com/idleair.htm



I have the stock '89 Mustang MAF and EV1 19lb pintle injectors that I rebuilt. Prior to a couple weeks ago I had my PMAS 75mm MAF and 30lb injectors, each with their values input. I was hoping to see it run better going back to parts that the computer was configured for out of the box, but no go. I will leave the stock parts on there until this gets solved, if at all.

In the past I've also used 19lb EV6 injectors and 24lb EV6 injectors (the size that the MAF is "calibrated" for).
38
Body/Appearance/Interior / Re: Waterproof Car cover
Doesn't line up great with the doors (although still accessible). but this cover worked fine when I had the car outside for a few months last spring-summer. Lots of bugs making nests up under the dry cover though, and signs that a mouse wanted to start in the empty cavity of my uninstalled tail lights. As for carcasses, mostly just spiders. moths, and dead hornets left when I pulled the cover off.

The 194-208" length version.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0749KYV4H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I have a more expensive vehicle-specific cover with padding for the garage, but this seemed like a decent "disposable" car cover to use outdoor. It continues to serve on a '64 Thunderbird outside, which it fits VERY tightly.
39
Engine Tech / Re: Troubleshooting persistent misfire
Quarterhose did come this afternoon. Will get the car moved over and access into the passenger footwell (and replace passenger seat) tomorrow. Some contact cleaner and I should be good to throw this on again.

40
Body/Appearance/Interior / Re: SN95 seats DON'T just "bolt to our tracks"?
New holes drilled at 14-inches:




I needed to clearance the track on the outside edge for the seat frame and upholstery. I didn't want to add an another half-inch of height to the seat using spacers. Seemed very thick metal, so I don't think this is a concern. The other side of the seat tracks (inside) is much smaller.



This shows the clearance that I needed:


Front-only spacers are still needed since the seat frame bottom isn't flat like our stock seats are:


Other photos of the bottom:



And finally in the car:
41
Engine Tech / Re: Troubleshooting persistent misfire
Quote from: Outsidedog – on
When was the last time you replaced your spark plugs and what gap are they currently at? Have you always used those autolites and are they the stock heat range? They appear to be but just checking. Just grasping at straws for now, hopefully something in the datalog pops out next week.

They have like 100 miles on them.  Maybe 200? Add a few hours of idling, and moving the car around the property. Heads were installed in old house. I drove it on the highway a bit for tuning. Drove it once for gear swap. Drove it from old house to new house. Drove it for transmission swap. Drove it for new front and rear glass. Not much other than that since the topend was changed years back, in which I hoped would improve the motor smoothness. It didn't.

Much of the engine bay as it sits now have nearly no mileage, and the block being the oldest was rebuilt at 228k miles (248k on the odometer now).  The tw170 heads have almost no miles per the above, along with the plugs and wires, waterpump, alternator, power steering pump, battery, throttle body, iac, egr, pcv, and tps sensor. Shortblock had gt40p heads before these, with about 20k miles I put on them as a daily driver. When I had the heads off for head swap, the cylinders still looked new, and was also when I clay'd the ptv clearance, and did some crude injector flow testing to see if any injector was having a problem. Never consumed oil (beyond what pcv fumes suck up into the runners) when I ran the gt40p heads, but I have almost no real mileage experience with the tw170, being that the car sits and all. My legacy troubleshooting started before the new topend parts though.

I don't believe I've had any other plugs on these heads - just these 3924 that were stocked at the parts store and correct for the head, but my idle concern still went back to those iron heads iirc. Years ago I tackled this issue thinking that perhaps my FMS plug wires were bad, so I picked up both these MSD, and other Firecore50's that I haven't even installed yet (those things don't come with the coil wire crimped).

The plugs were at 0.042, but I opened them up to 0.050 when I swapped the injectors to 19lb a couple weeks back. Didn't seem to change anything, but that may be what made my 4k breakup appear with the old coil. I hadn't seen that breakup previously on this coil - just on an Accel coil I tried a few years ago (above 2.5k rpm).

This persistent issue has killed my interest for too many years, and it must end soon! Spending a lot of time and money on the car now, completing other projects that I've been building up in my mind for almost 20 years.
42
Body/Appearance/Interior / Re: SN95 seats DON'T just "bolt to our tracks"?
On a related topic, where is that ground connector off the center frame/motor supposed to connect to? I don't have anything connected to it, and no wire that I know about, but it seems a spade quick-disconnect type connector is supposed to be pressed onto it.

This is the thing just under the harness connector pictured here (in the photo, looks like a broken wire, but it's a metal piece):

44
Body/Appearance/Interior / Re: SN95 seats DON'T just "bolt to our tracks"?
Here is what I'm seeing - threads are different location, and I need a spacer on both sides.

Our brackets are flat:


Our seat frames are flat:


2003 Mustang seat frames mount higher up on the front:


Better shot of the front:


Our brackets have this distance front to back:


Measurement on the stock seat:


Measurement on the 2003 Mustang frame:



Left to right are 14" on both sets of seats and frames, so width isn't an issue. Measurements without the camera angle throwing things off, the Mustang seat is 14x14 inch bolt spacing. Our stock seats are 14x14-11/16 inch. A difference of 11/16". Mustang seat frame bottom/mounting surface sits up higher in the front.

It seems that welding to the Mustang seat frame would be "best" and tap new holes, or one could drill new holes in our seat brackets and use almost anything as a spacer, with longer bolts.
45
Engine Tech / Re: Troubleshooting persistent misfire
Imagine being haunted by it for some 10+ years! It has always ran fine (was daily driving back then), but I can only "just drive it" for so long. Especially now that it's my "toy" car, I want it to run correctly!

I purchased my Quarterhorse in 2010 thinking a tune would help (had a TwEECer before it). No matter what I tried, the tweaking of values in an attempt to improve metering and ignition quality didn't smooth anything out.

Of course I had other driveability issues with my previous 4r70w, which stole my time for awhile. VB, clutches, pressures all looked and tested great for a 13k mile tranny. Had it apart for an output shaft change. This was another issue that I wanted to identify the root cause of, but in the end I completely replaced the transmission and that issue was resolved. Then the car sat untouched for a few years, and here we are today. Idle quality issue persists. I've suspected that it may be related to a part of the harness/electrical, but so far I haven't found an actual problem with it.