Build vs buy doesn't matter - its near impossible to build a laptop although companies have products that allow you to insert your own videocard (if you can find a mobile one), etc. Dell laptops aren't that bad although emachines made a huge splash in the mobile market a short while ago with the first athlon 64 and I think 9700 videocard in a laptop. Desktop wise, you can occasionally get parts from dell cheaper than if you were to buy them seperately from resellers (online or b&m). The only issue I have with dell is they supposedly still use their proprietary power supplies. The connectors are the same, but the pins on atx connectors are moved around. If you plug a normal atx psu into it, your system's gone. Dell has improved a lot over the last 7 years in both products and support.
Avoid any celeron over 1.4GHz. They're crippled so much, its sad really. 512MB is a must and even then, I notice a huge difference in performance between 1024MB and 1280MB (although I quit using the spare 256MB stick due to it making my sound cut out occasionally from incompatibility with my 512 sticks). More ram's always better.
and Ifixyawata, I don't know what problems you were having with your Celeron. Back then celerons were the only processor to have full speed L2 cache and this caused them to be superior to both amd's offerings at the time (K6-2/3) and intel's flagship processors (P2-400 and 450). People overclocking the Celeron 300A's to 450MHz were outperforming the pentium 2's at the same speed. Celeron 366's at 550MHz were even performing up there with the early Pentium 3's.
I've used AMD products more than Intel's though so I'm biased in no way. unknown 286, AMD 386sx, AMD 486 DX4, K6-300@333, K6-2 400@450, dual celeron 366's@468 or single @541 depending on what I wanted to do at the time - they didn't overclock worth (gaming with one processor stock performed over 2x better in games and about 30% better in non-floating point applications than my K6-2 at 450MHz), Duron 600@1GHz, AXP 1700+ @1.8GHz.
1700+ tbredA (not overclocked as much as I used to), 1GB hyperx pc3500, ti4200(no longer running at 315/650 though its was stable up to 315/710), 160GB and 40GB harddrives, XP Pro on original installation
That's all that really matters in computers now. Case has a car-like finish but I try to hide the window the case came with. Its near impossible to get cases now without huge holes in the side. The system's about 2 years old and beginning to show its age. It once was near top of the line along with the watercooling setup it once ran. Now I don't care because 1) I quit playing competitive FPS games and such 5 years ago when they went downhill and 2) it seems that computers no longer double in speed every 18 months. 2 years ago Intel released its 3.06GHz processor and look where they're at now. Their 3.6GHz processor is far from double the clock speed or processing power. Decreasing transistor size doesn't do as much as it used to in the days of .25 -> .18 micron. Dual core processors should be the next big thing and even then, I doubt the speeds will ramp up.
Anyways, yeah. I could use an upgrade about now to a 3500+/MHz processor and a newer videocard but they'll have to wait until next year
Wish I had money to spend on my car right now. My passenger visor has been bad for who knows how long. It comes down fine but takes a bit of effort to get the thing back up. I'm sure you'll find someone to take the interior pieces as they seem harder to find parts for.
oh, my paint is far from great condition. While I've sanded and resprayed the spots that had clearcoat starting to chip up, the paint's starting to show its age. For some reason, the roof of my car has gotten really bad over the last year. Areas are getting lighter in spots and I have no idea whats causing the sudden color change. It looks like its below the clearcoat and damaged from the sun, but I don't see what would make it damage so quickly. Plus, its ONLY appearing on the roof. The trunklid and hood are fine.
that's a lot of nitrogen...I'm curious what the problem is if it isn't the cat or egr. Is there even anything else that'd lower the nitrogen levels besides changing fuel?
it was hard to get pictures back there but I have the general location pictured and one from behind the intake.
Just grab onto the hose at the bend and pull up, the valve will most likely come out with the hose (did with mine...but mine has its own issues. I don't think there was a grommet on it). Like Eric said, installation isn't too hard. I just felt around for the hole with my finger and once I found it, plugged the valve back in.
So it looks like I found the cause of losing oil - the pcv hose was dripping with it when I took the valve off. I take it a functional valve and new hose are in order, yes?
I got it out, but I have no idea how its supposed to sound when "clogged". There were a few chunks in it but those washed right out. I don't see why they'd need to be replaced if 20 seconds under water seems to clean them up. It rattles, but thats the shaft in the inside moving. Up/down and it seems as if water can clean that out. Any ideas on what to look for if need of replacement? It may not be clogged but I guess it could still be a bad valve.
and is it supposed to be covered in oil when taken out? I thought only gases were supposed to be near (or going through...unsure if oil was on both ends) the thing.
I'll try jamming my hand back there today if possible (upper intake's in the way) and feel around. Mirrors may help with finding it. If I manage to get it unplugged (just pull out), I'll take pictures of the easiest way to get to the thing. Otherwise it may have to wait until I have the time and weather permits to drain the coolant to take the intake off.
If the valve still rattles when you shake it, there's a good chance that its okay and the problem lies elsewhere (pcv hose possibly). You may also want to try http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2002/01/tenpin/index.shtml to see if that helps your idle.
Well after looking online for HOURS, I found a couple people claiming that its on the back center of the lower intake...so is there an easy way to get to this? I have like 2" of space back there and most of that space already has wires and things running from place to place. I don't think I can fit my hands back there without taking the upper manifold off.
I believe some problems I'm having are linked to the pcv valve - be it the valve being plugged, grommets being bad, or the hose plugged. I've been having to refill the oil frequently and idle was rough although seems to be better now (I take it that the cooler weather is helping). The issue is that my Haynes manual shows a location for it on a carbed 302, not the fuel injected. Anyone have a description on where to find the thing?
