He says the engine will not start or idle unless he has the gas to the floor. When it is running with the pedal to the floor, there is a huge amount of black smoke. He seems to feel that the car is getting way way too much gas. He is pulling a code 48 He is not sure what system this is but i believe the EECIV codes might apply the same as on our 83-88cars.
i mentioned a..... vac leak stuck egr TPS sensor is in a bind in what would be the wot postion. fpr
Can anyone confirm code 48 on a 1990 is the same as on our fox cars?
48 calls out a vac leak and possible coil/spark issues.
finished up my new rack/pinion , bearings with a little shim between the inner race so it doesnt free spool on the spindal. i got everything done and decided that id check for power steering leaks isnce i distrubed the lines.
so,, i start the car, cycle the wheel thru the window, look for leaks and find none. I decide to back up a few feet so i had a clean spot under the engine. I sit down with a leg hanging out and the door half open., yall know the move cause we have all done this at some point in time. I throw it in reverse and all of a sudded it dawned on me that my brakes need primed cause i had to press in the calipers when i took off the rotor.
well,, i see my crash begin to happen. the following events were about to occure......
door half open slams into the welding table. welder falls off and smashes my knee. car continues in reverse as i have no presure it takes out my extra workbench and shoves it thru my wall. glass breaks in the door the shop broom flips over to my lap and punches thru the dash i shiznit my pants and stink up the car as it comes to a stop.
but........ quick thinking and i salvaged my car due to pumping real hard and real fast which brought me to a stop just and i mean just in the knick of time. I was 1/2'' from the welding table when i got done and surveyed what could have happened.
Pic of a huge trailer that will haul this worn out turbine form Dominion Power Co hydo elec plant in bath co va.
check out the bearing wear,, no roller bearings used but should be IMHO. Maybe it will be snowing by the time it gets loaded and the guy who steers on the rear of the trailer will freeze his nads off.
BTW,, the trailer it sits on now has several wheels also.
I started my alignment today with two laser lights taped to the lowest part of each rotor pointing to the rear tires. I measured the distance between the two dots. I reversed the lights and pointed them to the front of the car on a piece of plywood. I measured the distance between the dots. you should add some distance between the front of the car and the plywood just to simulate the distance. I adjusted each tie rod end until they met up even. i had to flip my lights around a couple or three times to keep up with my adjustments.
the shortest method i found was this....... take a look at my pic here. if you measure from the grease fitting on your ball joint(those without can insert something in there on a temp basis) to the outter edges of ONE rotor, you can adjust one rotor to be aligned perfectly with the center line of your car. the next step is to take two measurements from your ref rotor to the outter edges of the second rotor and adjust the tie rod end till they equal eachother.
its kind of like remembering all that stuff you were suppose to learn in geometry class
there was perfect clearance under the car to take the measurements for the triangle below that is if you dont position your jack stands in the way. I measured from the 4 adn 8 o'clock position on each rotor for each measurement. I would prefer the 3 and 9 o'clock but the lower control arm gets in the way.
I was messing around with my front end parts for the past few days off and on and i noticed something.
when you slide the boot off the rack / pinion and undo the inner tie rod end (BIG ASS NUT), there is an adjutment up in the nut to take up any slack in the pivit knuckle. I was fooling with it cause i found some more slack up front and determined that it was also present in my inner tie rod end. FIrst you have to loosen the tiny allen head set screws which pass the nut and lock into the pinion threads. when you look up inside the big nut, there is a square hole. Insert a 1/4 '' drive extenion in the square hole and rotate clockwise. this is sort of a seating nut for the ball or knuckle pivit point. when you do this,, all your slack is taken up with very little turning needed.
regrease everything and you should be set.
my bad news i went to adjust the inner tie rod end on the pass side and they (SEARS) cross threaded the inner and i ended up causing some damage that forced me to pull the entire rack. When i looked up inside the pass inner tie rod end, there was no adjustment. thats when it occured to me that i remember my wife way back when had it replaced. there was only a plastic insert in there instead of what i found on the driver side.
On the other board, we talked of heads without the need for pushrods camshaft lifters intake rocker arms timing gears timing chain starter ect ect check this head idea out
order of operation piston moves down and suction is forcing the intake valve open fuel and air come in to the chamber piston reaches full bottom end of stroke intake valve closes due to no more suction locking solenoid pluger extends on exhaust valve via electrical signal plunger puts the pivit exhaust valve rod in a bind. exhaust valve can not open. piston reaches top end of compression stroke DIS system fires off your plug explosion happens intake valve is forced to stay shut due to explosion/compression exhaust valve remains locked piston travels down to full bottom stroke locking solenoid disengages via internal spring and signal loss piston travels up exhaust valve "door" opens due to piston forcing it to do so. exhaust gas leave chamber piston reaches full top exhaust valve closes due to no upward presure opposing spring forces it shut when it reaches top. piston travels down "passive" intake valve opens gas/air come in piston reaches near bottom locking solenoid locks again,,,,process repeats.......
____________________________ parts explaination intake valve has two nuts on top to adjust spring reaction and valve opening distance. one adjusts while the other locks the setting in place. removes from the bottom like normal valve
exhaust valve the valve is actually mounted as a part of the head. Its a doorway sort of. the rod that passes upwards thru the head is designed like a pushrod where it seats on the valve door way. there is a notch in the side of the rod to help stop it from opening during compression stroke via the use of the locking solenoid. This reduced the amperage needed in our other concept relating to the other board. the main large nut on the top threads into the head to keep the valve rod inside the head and puts tension on the opposing spring. there is a lock nut as well on the top to adjust spring reaction time as well as opening distance. exhaust rod removes from the top. ***cant figure out a lubrication method for the area where the rod meets the exhaust valve door (designed like pushrod to lifter method).
ok,, i posted this on the old site and i need some advice. and just for you tom,, ill try to keep it short :)
my spindals are OEM. I have about 320kmiles. I replaced the bearings and the race mounted in the rotor also with the race that came with the bearings. Prior to the change i replaced my tie rod ends and ball joints. I still noticed that i had up/down/side to side play in the tire.
i wore myself out just now with the help of my wife to move the tire as i tried to determine where the slop is at.
i think the slop is mostly gathered around my inner bearing between the spindal and the bearing. I added a shim between the notched washer and the bearing when i added the nut to see if that helped. it was just like i ran out of threads on the spindal as it got so thight but the wheel moved just as free as i felt acceptable.
i pressed both new rotor races in to the full stop point.
THREE QUESTIONS when i replaced the rotor races, should i have *****not*****pressed it in to the full stop on both the inner and outter race of the rotor and used my nut on the spindal to finish pressing it?
should i have left the race on each side slightly un seated so that this would maybe split the difference on wear.? kind of let the bearings fall where they want to vs where they originally were when the spindal was new.
do people typically notice the spindal wear to be on the inner bearing area?
