Goofing off a work this morning, and stumbled across the original contract to build the original Batmobile on this site http://www.1966batmobile.com/new.htm pretty cool stuff.. What Twentieth Century Fox required...
Owner shall either provide and install or provide for the installation of the following items:
1. The Switches and Hand-throttle for the Turbo-electric Drive.
2. The Bing-Bong Warning Bell and Bat-Light Flasher.
3. The Mobile Phone between the seats with Beeper and Flashing Light.
4. The Batscope, with TV-like Viewing Screen on the dash with control buttons and Radar-like Antenna with aimable parabolic Reflector outside, with pen 15pit controls.
5. Anti-theft System- Flashing Red Lights- Piercing Whistle- Little rockets built into tubes at the back of the pen 15pit that fire straight up with a fiery whoosh. 6. Anti-fire Control System- Flood of Foam from Secret Nozzle. 7. Turn-off switch for Protection Systems. 8. Radar-like screen that Beeps and Blips and points an arrow as it picks up Robin's directional signal. 9. Mechanics for Emergency Bat Turn- Red Lever so named on Dash- Reverse Thrust Rockets beneath headlights- Ejection Parachute Mechanism at rear. 10. Bat-Ray Projector Mechanism- Lever on Dash so names- Hood Hydraulic Projector Device. (With possibility of ray coming from Bat-Eyes). 11. Portable Fire-Extinguisher. 12. Receiver and Sender Computer to be installed in trunk of Batmobile. 13. Bat symbols on hubcaps.
14. The color of the Batmobile and the Bat Symbols to be placed thereon shall be mutually agreed upon between Owner and Producer prior to the completion of the Batmobile.
15. Special luminescent paint to define Bat outline at night, the placement of which shall be mutually agreed upon between Owner and Producer prior to the completion of the Batmobile.
Come on now... who coudn't love " Little rockets built into tubes at the back of the pen 15pit that fire straight up with a fiery whoosh"??:burnout:
Wanted large bulldozer D-6 D-7 D-8 HD16 ECT. 1965 or newer also Want large cargo truck single rear axel 24' or longer cargo box with lift gate Items I have to trade Classic 1969 Cougar Conv XR7 value $15,000.00 or a V60B cat forklift 6000# value $5,000.00 call 1360 9210678
Location: Battle ground wa
it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
If anybody is intrested there is a Black TC for sale at a car lot in Kelso Washington.
I don't know a lot about it as I'm not in the market but if anybody is seriously intrested I could find out more for them.
Here is what I know so far, that we could see from 30ft away through a chain link fence (was at night when I saw it and the lot was closed) It's black with red pin stripe (black is HOT on these birds.. thats what cought my eye when I was driving by)
It has the 87-88 TC front cowl and and tail lights (is why I'm assumeing it's an 87 or 88)
they have a sticker asking $1695.
the sticker says 4cyl/Turbo
Lot's name is "Thrifty Auto" or "Thriftyauto" and it's on Wasington street.
Car looked straight, couldent see any obvious damage, It dident look "cherry" however (the orange was showing through on the bumper) like a repaint where the lot may have been trying to hide something with a cheap paint job.
If I happen to be in the area when there open I'll take a closer look, I do have more christmas shopping to do yet.
So somewhere on here I got the impression that the mini Console in my 88 bird that moves back and forth with the power seat was attached to the framework and not the actual seat itself, That Mustang seats would bolt in. Not the case, the console mounts to the base of the seat and to change the seat I need to change the console. OR cut it off and weld/bolt it to the side of the mustang seat. I’m now running around with a mustang seat on the passenger side and a broken down t-bird seat on the drivers.
My options: 1)Change the passenger back over to the t-bird. 2)Cut and re attach the Console 3)Swap to floor shift and full console.
I prefer option #3 so anybody have one they aren’t using, the more complete the better, Preferably Grey to match my interior.
Both my low beam's on my headlights went out last week (one on monday the other on thursday) so I replaced them this weekend. Havent driven the car, Live out in the woods where theres no car's driving by that can fling a rock (unless they can "fling" it 5 miles) and the only thing that could be falling from the sky would be a bird or something (no sign of that happining). I get in my Bird this morning and theres a 8" crack running diagonaly across my windshield right on the drivers side. I'm pretty sure it wasent there when I parked it last Thursday, and don't recall any rockshiznitting it driving to or from work thursday. and there's no round divet like a rock would make... just a smooth straight crack.
Bah! I have had the Bird parked due to the tire wear and not wanting to spend the time to fix it until after I get the house done. We made our first attempt at the final inspection this friday and have a few minor fixes Insulate the water heater pipes forgot to silicone one of the bathroom sinks etc. And I go out today to start the truck to get to work and the key goes to the RUN position then something inside breaks. Won't go to start, wont turn off, key just freely spins a full 360.. !! I got a final inspection to be ready for this Friday, a new Washer and Dryer on order I need to pick up and Tbird part's to pick up this Saturday, and now I have no truck and a front tire with cord showing on my car!
/deep breath!! So.. House is on hold, going to take the Bird back to the house and park it again, then the Wife and I will be sharing the Miata for a day or so while I fix the truck. Consentrating all I have on this house has nearly ran both my car's into the ground, Well the bird getting hit by a semi dident help eather but thats beside the point.
I have been a programmer for a machine shop that runs CNC mills and Wire EDM’s for about 18 years now. I have a very limited knowledge of Visual Basic Programming that our CAM software uses as a macro language. I have written several macros for this software that further automates our machining process. One of them that we have been using for a few years now has just had an “anomaly” (ß read BUG) surface that we didn’t know was there. I’m unable to locate what is causing it so I contact tech support ( our company pays nearly $6000 a year for this support) and I send them all the files necessary to recreate this “anomaly” which includes the calling macro CreateKeyway500 shown below...
Sub CreateKeyway500() Load frmKeyWay500 frmKeyWay500.Show End Sub
That simply loads the FORM that is the REAL macro (frmKeyWay500) And then displays the Form.
“frm” is the standard Visual Basic prefix for a FORM, the standard prefixes were the FIRST thing they taught us in the basic VB class!!
[rant] The F’ing tech support guy who we pay $6000 a year to responds back that I failed to include the macro “frmKeyWay500” in my sample file to him so he is not able to recreate the problem. So instead he ran CreateKeyway500 macro!
WTF if he has HALF a brain he would see that “CreateKeyway500” is a simple two line macro that does nothing but load and display the form… IF CreateKeyway500 ran at all then he HAS the form! My lord sometimes I really wonder where they find some of these people. And why the hell we pay them so much $
Next he’s going to ask me if I tried to reboot my computer. [/rant]
What does it take to upgrade to keyless entry. The replacement door I got for my bird has the keypad on it. Will I need anything else or is this a self contained type unit and I just plug it in?
I searched and found that Quietleaf has done it but no info on how or what I would need.
Converted my 88 bird to 5 lug using 91 spindles. Used front struts for a 91 Stang. Used rear shocks for a 91 Stang. Used 91 Stang rear housing w/ 84 Mark VII axels. Used 91 Stang rear springs. (gave it about a 2" drop in the ass.) 17x9 Bullits New 275/40's on the back New 245/40's on the front Aligned by Les Schwab
Problem #1: Noticed right away it was following every crack in the road
had alignement rechecked and they said it was in factory spec's but borderline. And was adjusted as far as it could go.
Been driving it (daily driver)
Problem #2: Front tires are shot, outside edges is totaly worn off, Center of tire has at least 50%
SO.. here I am, don't have the time to mess with it but now that it's a "tires going to pop soon" issue I'm forced to.
Chuck.. a quote from you I read and has been stuck in my head all this time is you told somebody else was "now get some C/C plates and fix that tire wear" Can you please explain this comment.. does this have to do with my tire wear also?
One thing I AM going to do is get that ass end back up, the stang springs work (enough clearance, but too much drop, ass end sit's lower than the front).
So my plan is to cut a coil from my 88 springs I still have and replace the stang springs and use Chuck's shock extensions.
I figure leveling the car out (or at least getting the ass off the ground) will help some. But I don't think this will be enough. (Will it?)
Should I look at some C/C Plates also? Will that fix my "in factory spec's but borderline. And was adjusted as far as it could go." problem?
Pretty excited about getting our electrician back in to finish up the lighting so got some poor night pictures (going to try again with the tripod) of the house with all the lights turned on in the dark. We spared no expense on the lighting and got what we wanted as opposed to just what was required. Lighting isn’t something that is that simple to go back and add light’s unless you don’t mind ripping out drywall. So unlike most contractor built houses where they put the required one light per entry I put two, one on each side of each garage door, one on each side of each sliding door, one on each side of the front door, and one on each end of the front of the house. Plus 4 flood’s up in the gable. The front of this place just GLOWS