Skip to main content ↑ ↓

Messages

This section allows you to view all Messages made by this member. Note that you can only see Messages made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - TheFoeYouKnow

1861
Electrical Tech / Fuel Pump Relay - Help!
This is why I recommended to keep the overlay "in circuit" and before the inertia switch.  He's right, if you take power from another circuit, you may back feed the circuit.  This circuit includes such components as the injectors, so it would be good to test for power from the eec relay out until you find a ball of snot or a cut circuit.  I still suspect the circuit between S532 and the inertia switch, because if the eec relay were bad, the engine would not run.  The eec would not power up, the injectors would have no power, etc.  As long as you can jump Y to R WITH THE INERTIA SWITCH OUT, and have the engine run, I'd say your eec relay is validated.  You're almost certainly looking for a wiring problem.
1863
Electrical Tech / Fuel Pump Relay - Help!
Quote from: hwy73;391718
88 XR-7 5.0. Engine cranks but no start. Do not hear fuel pump relay or fuel pump "prime" when key turned to on.
Ground the tan wire at self-test connector with key on, no relay, no pump. Thinking fuel pump relay, right?
At the fuel pump relay connector in trunk, jump yellow (hot at all times) with the pink (to the pump).
Pump runs, car starts. Still thinking relay. Replaced relay, no change. Checked red wire (voltage with key on) to the relay, nothing.
Checked inertia switch, not tripped. Unplugged inertia switch, has continuity across terminals. Shake switch, button pops, switch opens.
Jumper inertia switch wires (pink w/ black stripe), no effect. So now I'm looking at the red wire going to the fuel pump relay.
With relay plugged in, jumper from yellow to thin red with key on, relay clicks, pump runs, car starts.
Now what? Ignition switch maybe?

@ Tom
Take another chance to read his entire post.
1864
Electrical Tech / Fuel Pump Relay - Help!
Yes, but if it starts and runs with Y jumpered to R, we know that the PCM is sending that signal and it's working.
1865
Electrical Tech / Fuel Pump Relay - Help!
Quote from: hwy73;391718
88 XR-7 5.0 So now I'm looking at the red wire going to the fuel pump relay.
With relay plugged in, jumper from yellow to thin red with key on, relay clicks, pump runs, car starts.
Now what? Ignition switch maybe?

Like I said, we troubleshoot the relay power circuit.  This last step in your post verifies a couple of things: The Fuel Pump, Relay Source Power, Relay Trigger (from PCM), and the relay itself.
And that points to an open in circuit 361 (R) since the engine runs when you're feeding power to the relay coil, I'd rule out trouble between the splice and the eec power relay, but check the splice for wire boogers, and check connector C455.
1866
Electrical Tech / Fuel Pump Relay - Help!
Here are the 3 evtm pages related. As you can see there is a splice and another connector involved, check there. C455 is located under the right side of the dash, possibly near the PCM, Splice S132 is located in the engine bay on the same side as the battery.  These places are where I'd check, you're looking for battery voltage on that red wire, check for a poor connection, damaged/pulled out pins at  c455, and look for corrosion in the splice when you find it.  You may also test resistance across the circuit from point to point in the circuit, but make sure the system is de-energized.  As a last resort, make an overlay, but keep it in the same circuit. find a good place where the circuit has good continuity to the relay and splice a new wire from there to a point in that circuit where you have good working power. You've got a lot of other loads in this circuit, so be careful what you cut.  If you cut anything, cut the circuit off at the down-circuit side of the overlay, and make sure to tape the loose end off and secure it to the harness safely.  Ideally, you'll want that overlay to be as short as possible.


XXX
1867
Lounge / Just picked up our new project vehicle (56k warning!)
Pull the V6 and chuck it.  Or, better yet, throw it out in the yard and chain a big, mean looking dog to it.  I'm not very familiar with the popular V8's for these, but get one.  Resist any urge to install a 350.  With old Jeeps, rust and faded paint are part of the charm, just make sure it's safe.
1868
Engine Tech / Planning my exhaust
Won't be needing P headers.  My engine is from a 96 Explorer, so I have standard GT40's, and not GT40P's (which were introduced mid-cycle 1997) This was purely intentional, because I wanted to keep internal EGR.  I'm picking up a pair of gently used BBK shorty unequal length headers.
1869
Electrical Tech / Finally hooked up Relays to headlights
I also like relays, but I'd rather dip my stick in parts cleaner than use any pre-made harness.  Seriously, relay holders, 30A standard relays, access to a wiring rack, flux, solder, and heatshrink. I'll build you harnesses that make the prebuilt  look like it was rejected from the cracker-jack factory.  And it's not hard, its just about keeping it clean, like these pics Tom has up.
1871
Engine Tech / Modern Fuels
Quote from: TOM Renzo;391514
82 i have actually considered this as a viable answer. Example my state still does asm25-25 emission testing on 95 and down vehicles, And my state slashed the emission levels in half on these cars, As the matter of fact the test numbers for older cars and OBD1 vehicles are twice as strict as when they were built. My state has personal property tax on cars every year. One can figure that older cars dont bring in TAX DOLLARS. I firmly believe this is part tof the problem and i believe it is a definite PLOT TO GET RID OF OLD CARS!! Thanks

What state do you live in?  I think I'd move, I couldn't deal with that sort of oppression.
1872
Engine Tech / Planning my exhaust
I should specify that I'm eventually gunning for 410 at the crank.  The idea is to match the output of the coyote 5.0L.
BTW, whats the general feel on lers around here?  I was considering Dynomax UltraFlo, it's a straight through ler available in rolled or welded construction.  My personal feelings on chambered lers are not suitable for public exposure, so if you're thinking about flowmaster, keep thinking.  I don't know, maybe I'll throw down the extra coin and try a pair of Dynomax VT 17159's.  It seems like they might be too complicated for a simple device like a ler, but if they really are drone free, it might be worth it.
1873
Engine Tech / Modern Fuels
We have a separation tester at our shop we use to make the ethanol and gasoline separate. The tube the test takes place in has graduations in percent so that when the two settle apart you get a surprisingly accurate reading of the ethanol percentage.  I do know that this is a Ford essential tool, so if you've got friends in the local Ford shop, or other shop that has one, it's worth checking.  Most of the time we use it when we have drivability problems on non-flex fuel vehicles and suspect E85 is in the tank.  I've only used it on a couple of occasions, but that isn't the sort of work I do there.
1875
Engine Tech / Modern Fuels
Did you do a separation test a sample of the fuel to verify the mix ratio?  You could be dealing with a higher mix of ethanol, it's not hard to imagine a tanker driver accidentally filling a tank for a couple minutes with E85, and just not telling anybody about his mistake.

Also, I imagine that it wouldn't be a huge deal to set up an in-tank pump with an adjustable regulator either at the tank, returning fuel on site, or in the tank between the pump output and the top of the pump carrier, dumping the excess back into the tank.  It wouldn't be too different from early returnless systems, just lower pressure.