what is this part and why are they junk on all the 5.0s...egr system right?
i think it has something to do with letting the air cicrulate between the heads or getting them air from the air pump, whatever it was it looked at me the wrong way so i cut it off and welded it shut :evilgrin: . along with removeing every other emmissions POS off the car :evilgrin: after removeing all the junk i dont use, emmissions, ac, ect... theirs tons more room and i shaved off like 50+ lbs off the front.
Yep, that comes back from the diverter valve and goes back to the holes in the rear of the heads.
I bought one a couple years back under HELP or motormite brand
huh...thanks guys. your car ran fine after blockin it off aye :rolleyes: i was just curious. its the only thing broken on the car and the motor is coming out in favor of a HO anyway. just about every sport i see has one of these broken or repaired. the last 3 mustangs i looked at had leaking headers. talk about annoying. why is that anyway...garbage...lol
It's a one-way valve that lets air from the smog pump into the heads via the pipe that runs across the back, and blocks any exhaust pulses from coming back out and ruining the smog pump or control valves.
Emissions junk. I cleaned all of mine out as well as getting rid of a bunch of excessive vaccuum lines over there. It's insanely empty on that side. Now if I can make the other side look nearly as empty, it'll be great.
I unbolted the whole system (1 bolt on each head) cut all the excessive pipe off, welded the holes where I cut the pipes, and only bolted the small plates back on over the holes in the heads. If you go that route, make sure you cover the hole completely or your car will sound like a truck ;) It'd probably be easier to line up if you left the cross bar in back.
if i could only weld...hey, i know somebody takin welding classes..... :rolleyes:
LOL!
get me the part and I'll hack it up for ya ;)
You can also unbolt it and cut the pipes off, then flip it around and bolt it on the heads backwards to block off the holes. No welding required. :D
but welding is fun :)
Why yes, yes it is!! :D
Just a note from experience - I first ran my HO conversion with all emissions intact (except cats)then, in pursuit of power removed it all, then due to new smog testing I reinstalled it all (again - no cats, I just told the inspector my bassani X was a single cat performance pipe and he bought it!). I drag raced this car all three times and found no difference in et's bigger than .05 sec and the car runs better with smog stuff.
Better mileage too. Not that I'm a tree hugger or anything - just telling it as i see it.
Easiest way to eliminate that mess, remove it all, plug the holes in the heads with old spark plugs (break the porselin off and screw them in, you might have to remove some carbon, but they will thread right in) Then pinch the pipe shut, as close to the exhaust as you can. Then all you got to do is remove the rest of the , either get an elimiator for the air pump or use it as an idler. makes getting to them pasenger side plugs so much easier!
looks like a pita...its lazy season
Decided to resurrect this thread instead of making a new one.
I'm yanking the smog stuff on my 5.0 in preparation to get it running again. Had to hack up the line running to the Y-pipe, so I figured I'd just lose the smog pump now.
If that thing's a check valve, and won't let anything go forward of it, (toward the pump) should I be OK just capping this off for now in front of the valve? I would guess "yes", but I want to make sure. I'll do a cleaner removal of this part later, after the car is running.
EDIT: , cheapest smog pump eliminator pulley kit is like $47 from Summit.
well, to update. i ended up unbolting the tube from behind the heads. i cut the tubes off leaving enough to vice crimp the leftover shut and bolted them back on. (BTW, crystal was right, make sure they are covered correctly or it will sound like a truck.) i left the smog pump on as an idler for now cause its cheeper than spending money on an eliminator kit. its a little bit noisy but acceptable. i removed the checkvalves and all the tubing from the air pump all the way to my h pipe. (crimped the tube shut. now h pipe but same as y pipe). everything seems cool accept with no emissions equip and no cats the car is a little stinky...that could be from my header to hpipe leaking though.
I was thinking about taking the longest piece of hose from the existing smog setup and connecting that right to the outlet on the smog pump, and then diverting that hose under the body or something. Not sure that'll help the noise any, but hey.. it's not like it's going to cost me anything to try it.
What about all those little vacuum connections? (in the very lower left of the pic in your first post.. under there) I followed the lines back, and a line ends up going into the back of the quarter panel area. Do you know what that line is? I was thinking of just disconnecting all that stuff all the way up to the intake, but I want to figure out what that one line does, first.
well, i just disconnected them and tucked them away just in case i needed them. no ill effects yet. the smog pump isnt that niosy. as specially compared to the clutch fan.
They make plugs that screw into the back of the head where the tube went in. Thats what I have on my car.
yeah, but why take the time to order or go to the store and spend the money if the mod is free quick and easy? unless of course its a show car. but thats just my opinion.
It just gets rid of a lot of trash hanging off the back of the heads. I don't think they cost much, although I don't really recall, I think mine came with a motor rebuild kit. You could just use a bolt or a pipe plug I think.
Or get a good set of heads.... :D
bringing this up again i was poking around under the hood trying to set things to rights. (yeah John, the kids at my school messed some stuff up pretty bad putting that tranny in) so I see that this check vave is disconnected from the down tube to the exaust, and I wanted to make sure this wasn't bad for anything (other than ventin exaust gasses back into the engine compartment) my guess is not after reading this. yes btw my car is stock in all respects and I would like to continue passing my emmissions
its definetly gotta be conected and working to pass MA state inspection. its probably noisy too, which is annoying. shouldnt actualy hurt anything though. hows the car runnin otherwise Tim? let me know if theres anything i can help ya with...
I have a story on this very part. 10 years ago I changed the plugs on my 5.0---different ford 1989 vehicle. This part gives you fits reaching around it for the back plug or two. You have to press the back of your hand on it at times to work back there. Not long after that plug job, I began getting an exhaust fume smell in the passenger compartment--for the longest time this went on. I made no connection to what could have happened. More than a year or 2 later, I found that this part split in two--you wouldn't see the break unless you pressed upon it. The exhaust leached out and backflowed (somehow) up into the hood air intakes for interior air. The story all came together then for me. After I bought ler tape and wrapped it closed, I have not had any exhaust fume smells inside the car. It didn't happen 100% of the time--but often enough that made me wonder what was wrong with my vents--I actually began shutting off vent use because of the smell. I should post a picture of this here as it presently looks. Years ago the auto makers dropped the footwell vents (I had a '64 Impala), hell, this emission setup is far more dangerous--and I am sure there are other split ones out there. Yeah, if I knew what I was doing, I would rip it out too.
John R
well the car was running pretty good. notice the past tense. the new trans got put in by the auto mech dept. at the voc. school I go to. It just seemed easiest cuz it was cold outside and I would've had to do it in my driveway otherwise. I gave them specific instructions for certain things I wanted done. They took 3 weeks to do it and somehow they managed to screw up more than they fixed. It had seemed alright but the exaust leaks now, i've developed a bad trans fluid leak from (get this) the pan, the cooling? lines AND the fill tube which has become horribly loose. I now need to replace the rear engine seal and, this will make you laugh, the first thing I had to fix (back a bit) was the neutral safety switch electrial coupling. they shattered the keyed shell and had it installed bakwards! It would only start in reverse and I got reverse lights in park and neutral!
Anyways sorry for the ranting and raving but it bothers the out of me.Thy are supposd to be learning how to be professional's. I'll kep you posted how it comes along but its gonna be slow thats for sure.
I can see students making mistakes, but shouldn't their instructor be correcting or pointing out those mistakes to students to correct before the car is returned to it's owner? Don't blame the students. Blame the moron the school hired to teach them.
right on with that one. the instructor should have never let it go like that. i know its sometimes tough to get the means to do a big project but, tim, you might be better off to buck up and pull the tranny and start over. at least the weathers on your side now. i dont know realy what else to say. hope it works out.
As long as the "down tube" is capped off, you won't get gassed. And there's 2 check valves, one to the heads, one to the exhaust.
If the ECU decides the system needs air from the smog pump, it tells the bypass valve (blue) to stop dumping the air outside and send it to the diverter (red), then it decides who needs it the most... the heads (yellow path) or the converter (green path).
And of course, a picture.... :D
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Definitely smog pump . Just get rid of it. One less hassle to worry about. I got rid of mine and just put bolts in the back of the head where the pipe went in
The insructors not a bad guy he's just really overworked. He has to stay on top of a dozen or more projects all at once . I'm actually wiring his house right now. As for the smog pump stuff i just got my plumber uncle to sodder? on a copper cap on the down tube.sorry but to break the topic a bit, John I hope you see this cuz I like ya and I value your opinion and any others who may want to chime in. My uncle (not the plumber) is a retired rail roader and has quite a netegg saved away but he could never use as much as he has so he spends alot on me and we spend alot of time together. (im his favorite and oldest nephew) He popped this on me today: he wants to by me a new car! A subaru wagon which is peppy but no cougar. to get the vehicle it requires trading in the cat. (for a lousy 200 trade in value) im torn and unsure what to do. i think the cat needs a couple grand in repairs (most of which i would do myself) i enjoy working on my car. The subaru is a 98 wagon AT, w/ a 2.2 4 banger all tuned up and rides nice. free tires for life and routine maintanance andi dont pay a cent for it. what do you think i should do? and plese dont bias your opinions based on that you all love your cats and birds. I need to be semi practical here. thaks you all! TIM
by the way would you all hate and scorn me if i got rid of the cat? :D
tim, the subaru should be a good car. its got the better engine (more reliable and less noisy than the 2.3.) the other engine had a problem with being noisy untill like 2001 or 02 i think. tha autos are much better (im pretty sure you should have the 4 speed in that vs the older 3 speed). they tend to have a ton of body roll. giving your situation i dont see how you could pass it up. id try to at least keep a higher rated tire on it to keep the sidewalls a little stiffer. makes a big differance on those. the 4 door sedans a little better.
id just go ahead and trade the cougar if its that far gone. if you realy like it and the body is clean, str8 and rust free maybe yank the drivetrain and start picking away at it as a project car. the price is right. otherwise list it in the local paper and want ad mag. might get more than a dealer will give you. they are only gonna acv it for nothing anyway and wholesale it. i certainly wouldnt pass up such a deal. there is always time to pick up another tbird, cougar or mustang or whatever later. as specially if the free car is only gonna cost you maintanance, gas and insurance.
I was kinda hoping I could keep it as a project car (especially since the dealer only wants to give it a 200 trade in value) but I dont have anywhere to keep it. I had so many great plans for it but now...I think I'll post it up in the 4sale section. Do yoou know how many cougar enthusiasts are in western mass? I would hold onto it till CJ but like I said nowhere to put it.