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Topic: Zero oil pressure (Read 3187 times) previous topic - next topic

Zero oil pressure

Any reasons for zero oil pressure in a 2.3 other than bad oil pump?

I just got my TC back together after a year of it sitting torn apart. Starts and runs but no oil pressure :(

Really dont wanna pull the motor back out.
93 Festiva L, 193k miles, BP+T/G25MR swap, T3 50trim .48/.42, SRT FMIC, Capri electronics/Rocketchip, 2.5" exhaust
bests: ET 12.86, MPH 110.25, 1.92 short
02 Subaru Impreza WRX, 129k miles
97 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 236k miles

Zero oil pressure

Reply #1
Didja check it with a real oil pressure gauge or are you relying on the one in the dash? If you're going by the dash one, get a real one and test for oil pressure (do this before driving the car, of course). Also test the gauge operation by pulling the wire off the sender and grounding it. The gauge should go to high when grounded.

If you check with a real gauge and really do have no oil pressure it could be a cracked, blocked or leaking pickup tube (causing the pump to suck air instead of oil). If the engine has been apart, it could even be a missing pickup tube (don't laugh, a guy I worked with did that to a Chevy 3.1 V6) or missing or defective O-ring.

Is the oil pump driven by the distributor in the 2.3? If so, it could be a missing or broken oil pump ddrive shaft as well.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Zero oil pressure

Reply #2
Does it also make a weird metallic sound after running for about 10 -15 min? and idle weird?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
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5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Zero oil pressure

Reply #3
The valve train will "raise Hell" on a 2.3 with no oil pressure, at least with a slider cam, only takes a minute or so to wipe one...

Did you install the pump drive and prime the pump beforehand???

Zero oil pressure

Reply #4
without having to repeat what thunderchicken said, what i remember about the 2.3 is the pan gasket material(and other sludge) clogs up the the oil pickup but you never mentioned how long it was sitting around. just a thought...
are you sure the wire on the pressure sender just didnt get knocked off, or the sender broke from you putting the motor in(assuming you just dropped the motor in) ?
its in the back under the intake manifold on the drivers side of the block if i remember correctly.
you left something out when you reassembled it, again just a thought.
you cant trust the factory guage since its basically an buttstuffog idiot light, go to walmart and get the three guage thingy for about 12 bucks(comes with a bunch of fittings)

also, since i have to ask, would you happen to have a fram oil filter on it?
"Beating the hell out of other peoples cars since 1999"
1983 Ford Thunderbird Heritage
1984 Ford Mustang GT Turbo Convertible

Zero oil pressure

Reply #5
now i dont use fram but what are you guys so anti-fram?!?! lol
1971 Camaro Blown 640ci
1988 T-Top Mustang
1980 Mustang coupe
1988 Thunderbird TurboCoupe
And a purple mini van! :burnout:

Previous Thunderbirds:
1988 Sport

Zero oil pressure

Reply #6
fram oil filters are alot like wet toilet paper. The innards can cloge the inside of your engine. There isn't really a whole lot of filtering going on there.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Zero oil pressure

Reply #7
Theres definately no pressure as there was a lot of top end racket. I confirmed by pulling the feed line, it was dry. I actually ran the engine like this for a while. Got way ahead of myself in excitement. It has a roller cam swap so hopefully its okay. If worse comes to worse I have a good stock slider setup. Just hope the bottom end and turbo are okay. Dont ask why I didnt confirm oil pressure before dropping the motor in.
93 Festiva L, 193k miles, BP+T/G25MR swap, T3 50trim .48/.42, SRT FMIC, Capri electronics/Rocketchip, 2.5" exhaust
bests: ET 12.86, MPH 110.25, 1.92 short
02 Subaru Impreza WRX, 129k miles
97 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 236k miles

Zero oil pressure

Reply #8
Quote from: Live Fast;276123
now i dont use fram but what are you guys so anti-fram?!?! lol


The anti-drainback valve also seals against cardboard so it leaks all the dirty oil back into the engine. It's also a big cause of start up knock.

Here's the oil filter study.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html
Matt
1984 Thunderbird - 89 302 HO, GT40 heads w/ Trick Flow springs, E303 cam, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake and 600 cfm 4bbl, Mustang headers, Jegs o/r H pipe, Dynomax lers, Mustang AOD and shifter, Mustang 8.8 w/ 3.73s, 3G alternator, Mustang front and rear sway bars, KYB 87-88 Turbo Coupe shocks and struts, and 11" front brakes.

1988 Mustang GT - GT40 heads, Explorer intake, 70mm throttle body, 70mm MAF, Crane 1.7 rrs, E303 cam, Kirban Kwik shifter w/ Pro 5.0 deluxe handle, aluminum clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster, o/r h pipe, Dynomax lers, 3G alternator, aluminum radiator, and 3.27 gears.
 
1986 Cougar 5.0, 1989 Mark VII LSC 5 speed, 1980 Mercury Zephyr 4 door (sold)

Zero oil pressure

Reply #9
The oil pump drive is 8mm(5/16") on the 2.3s... You can pull the dist and confirm the drive shaft is in place... Also you can make you up a drive and try spinning the pump with a drill to see if you can build pressure... Don't know if a common allen hex key will be long enough when cut down... Should be able to drive the hex with a 5/16" socket...

Zero oil pressure

Reply #10
or he could find a 91-93 mustang in the junkyard and c00ch the distributor shaft thingy that protrudes from it to prime your oil pump with a drill(dont recall the exact name, when you see it you will know what i mean)
it sticks out like a sore thumb.
"Beating the hell out of other peoples cars since 1999"
1983 Ford Thunderbird Heritage
1984 Ford Mustang GT Turbo Convertible

Zero oil pressure

Reply #11
Impact on the aux pulley bolt should turn the pump too, right? Either way, the pan has to come off, so I might as well save the time looking around the dizzy hole for a missing gear and just get that pan off.
93 Festiva L, 193k miles, BP+T/G25MR swap, T3 50trim .48/.42, SRT FMIC, Capri electronics/Rocketchip, 2.5" exhaust
bests: ET 12.86, MPH 110.25, 1.92 short
02 Subaru Impreza WRX, 129k miles
97 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 236k miles

Zero oil pressure

Reply #12
A impact would probably just hammer the bolt till it wrings off... Takes a surprising amount of power to turn a oil pump at more than a few RPMs...

Zero oil pressure

Reply #13
You're right about that - I remember rebuilding the 3.8 in my '91 and priming the pump with a power drill. Almost took it out of my hands when it suddenly built pressure...
bhazard: If you're going to use any power tool to turn the aux shaft, use a drill. Like Tom said, an impact will likely just break the bolt off.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Zero oil pressure

Reply #14
I do remember the shaft being really easy to turn with the impact when I put the bolt in the pulley. Could that indicate a problem with the pump?
93 Festiva L, 193k miles, BP+T/G25MR swap, T3 50trim .48/.42, SRT FMIC, Capri electronics/Rocketchip, 2.5" exhaust
bests: ET 12.86, MPH 110.25, 1.92 short
02 Subaru Impreza WRX, 129k miles
97 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 236k miles