So if you have a known rim and tire combination that fits and you know the rim and tire configuration you want to put on the car then go here and compare the two.
That should tell you everything you need to know. What you need to pay attention to is if you have a rim and tire combination that fits the car you need to be very careful with the space between the rim and/or tire and the strut on the front suspension.
I'm going to do some measurements on the old wheels and tires i have and do some more research on wheels and tires before i pull the trigger i will defiantly get a hold of y'all before i buy and get your opinions.
What wheels / tires are you running? I like the look of those.
The only thing that concerns me is that my control arms are a little shorter then yours as the 83-84 have the same control arms as the fox mustang. The 85-88 have the same as the SN95 arms which are a bit wider..
I have a pair of Eibach 5.0 lowering springs. I got them way back in 99. I have had this car sense i was 16 way back in 1998. I think they lowered it 1inch.
My 84 bird SN95 8.8 axle, 5-lug front spindle / cobra brake upgrade is nearly complete. I am now looking toward wheels and tires. I would like to use the 03 Cobra wheels and tires from LMR. I'm wondering if they will fit correctly. Below is a rundown of my configuration.
1998 Mustang 8.8 axle with cobra disk brake conversion
95 mustang front spindles with 13" brake upgrade
stock front lower control arms
I really dont want to spend that money to have them not fit. Im thinking they will fit fine as most mustang wheels will fit.. but wanted y'all opinion/confirmation. Thank you.
How did you handle the brake lines and the fuel pump/lines right next to the ler? did you put new fuel lines in to move the pump? did you toss the pump?
I am swapping the old 7.5 to a Stang 8.8 from a 98GT. I am going to go with the cobra brake's. One of the issues is how to line up the brake hard lines.. The mustang has the brake lines on the driver side, the bird has it on the passenger side. Do i swap brake hard lines from the mustang? Is there a easy way to get around this? Thoughts?
Thank you sir.. I stand corrected in regards to the crossmember/bell's.. I did re-use my 5.0 bell housing... That explanes the issue. Thank you sir I have already created custom engine mounts to fix the issue.
The issue is that the 84 V6 mount plates on my v8 crossmemeber put the engine way to far forward. and i should elaborate.. it puts it 1 1/2 inc forward toward the stereo. if i had no floor console between the seats it would be fine. But as soon as i looked to re-installing the stock console with the proper turbo coupe trim it would not allow it to all bolt up.
I got the engine with the mazda trans still bolted up to it off craigslist for $250.00. I already had the T5 in the car which only had approx 300 miles on it before my 5.0 went tits up . So i separated the Mazda unit and sold it on craigslist for $250.00
I am going to stick with the stock 3.08 rear gear ratio that the 5.0 had. But i am going to rip out the stock 7.5 and put in a 8.8 turbo coupe axle. I am going to have the turbo coupe axel rebuild before instilling with a after-market LS unit and a new set of 3.08 gears.
P.S
The stock 5.0L lower radiator hose is a perfect fit. the stock SC upper radiator hose works to but you have to angle it back a hair to fit... My screaming daemon coil will arrive soon. Looks like i am going to tackle the heater hose issue next week. I will take pictures and post.
I have not decided if i am going to maintain the Throttle body heater hoses yet or just ditch them for simplicity,
hey one thing. keep an eye on the balencer. They are pr0ne to breaking or the rubber ring in them break down and allow the outer ring of the balencer to fall off. When this does happen i would go with a bhj balencer. Thats the way im going on my SC.
I ordered a replacement unit. the stock one was shot!
Im back on the project after a long long delay due to the economy and a engine rebuild in my 2000 Jag... (dont ever buy a jag) ... So any way im back at it and have learned several new things
1. The stock wiring is doable but its a pain. the stock wiring harness go's from the firewall and stretches about 3 feet past the front of the car :hick: . I cut a hole in the inner fenderwell on the pass side and ran it threw there.. After this was done i had to sift threw the driver side SC harness and remove the wireing for the power feed to the ECU Relay (i mounted the relay in the fender). That was a pain in the ass. But its done. Ended up adding a few power wires going from the stock 84 harness on the drivers side threw the wire bundle in between the radiator and then connecting it with the ECU relay. While i was in there i mounted up my K&N cone filter on the end of the stock tube. There will be no air filter under the hood. a true cold air setup!
2. The stock motor mounts for the 84 will not work if your running a FMS superduty T-5 with a aluminum flywheel and a king cobra clutch. it puts the shifter in the stereo . So i had to move the engine 1 1/2 back buy making custom mount plates. This in tern caused another issue as the intercooler charge return pipe has a bracket that is bolted to the block right next to the mount... well if you move the motor back it puts a bolt hole in the middle of the block's mounting pad for the bracket. so i had to cut that.. (pic below).. freeked my nabor out when he came out side and saw me cutting on the engine with a cutter wheel.
3. Now the engine is close to the fire wall which makes the stock cooling system routing difficult. The stock cooling system runs from the water pump to the oil filter adapter then up the driver side under the inter cooler pipes to the back of the engine where it takes a left hand turn and go's behind the engine to the pass side heater core inlet. With engine so close to the wall its going to be a bitch to route the pipes.. (additional pics to come)
4. this setup required two different length O2 sensors. Pass side is stock length and the driver side has to be at least 10 to 15 inch long.
5. The stock throttle cable is way way to short. I am going to order a lokar cable for this which i have not done yet. (pics to come)
6. The Alternator is on the wrong side. So i had to make a supper long alternator + cable and run it threw the wire bundle between the radiator.
the plan is to use a water to air intercooler system similar to whats on frozen boost.com I am also going to run the screaming demon coil back with 10mm live wires which are on there way. will be ordering a new much larger MAF housing in a few days. I am hoping to be able to fire it up before the end of next month. Then i will be saving up to get the exhaust done and the inter cooler which will be custom built for me by my good friends up at nameless performance. I will keep yall informed with more pics as this progress's