ok you have me doing research. Ford TSB 01-15-7 A/T Fluid Application Charts. All A/Ts from 1977 thru 2002 use either Type "F", Mercon or Mercon V. None of these are interchangable and cannot be mixed. They also recommend against dual usage fluids.
For '84 The C3 and AOD used Dexron II. The C5 used Type "H" fluid. This is no longer available. Look for Dexron/Mercron that is labeled as a replacement for Type "H" or meets Ford Specification ESP-M2C166-H.
Is this the same problem you had before you replaced any parts? It sounds like the starter is running but not engaging the flywheel ring gear. Under the dome shaped cover on top of the starter are contact points that should be closed when the starter is off. When voltage is first applied to the starter a high current goes through these contacts and the top field coil in the starter. This generates a strong magnet to pull down on the engaging lever (also under the dome cover) which shoves the drive gear into the flywheel ring gear.
If the contact points are not making the motor will run without engaging. However all the stuff on top of the motor should should have come with the new motor.
When you say "sliver" do you mean 1/4'' square and an inch or so long? Is harmonic balancer the same as crankshaft vibration damper?
If so the key insures the balancer is in the correct relationship to the crankshaft, since the balancer has the timing marks on it. The crankshaft and the balancer each have a notch in them which when lined up the key will fit in.
On Duraspark II distributors there are two springs on the centrifugal spark advance. This is under the stator plate assembly. If one of the springs is still in place the loose one goes on the opposite side (180 degrees) from the first one.
From '84 shop manual code 48 is a "fuel control" code. They run through tests of the EGO sensors and circuits. The fuel injectors balance and leak down. Shorts to voltage in an injector circuit.(holding an injector open all the time). The fuel pressure regulator.
A rotary file is the same principle as the dremmel only on a larger scale. They would have a 1/4 inch shaft and be all steel. You would use your regular power drill. I have not bought one in a long time but I would not think they would be more than 3 or 4 dollars.
The studs are not attached to anything. They are a swedge or very tight fit. I would have thought they would break off before they would spin, but maybe I am wrong.
You may want to try a rotary file. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes. I think a round or oval would be best. Then get out your drill and pretend you are a dentist.
Are you saying, two of the studs broke off and the other two were loose? What parts were replaced, the studs, the lug nuts, the brake disk?
The lug nuts should not go all the way through the rim. If they did they would bottom against the hub and not tighten the rim.
Emissions Repair Tips CO too high = Car runs rich, burns too much gas. Bad carburetor adjustment, float too high, carburetor flooding, sticking secondary throttle, leaking fuel injector, leaking fuel pressure regulator, feedback system malfunction (oxygen sensor, coolant sensor, throttle position sensor), emissions vapor system malfunction (purge valve, canister clogged) Be aware that NOX will RISE after you fix a CO problem. This must be checked after a successful CO repair.
HC too high = unburned fuel in exhaust; car runs very rich or very lean. This is the trickiest condition because there are different causes. If the car is running rich (high CO), the HC can be high also. If the CO is very low and HC is high then the vehicle has a lean misfire.
If The CO is high, fix that problem first. If CO is low and HC is high look for engine skipping, misfire due to vacuum leaks, ignition timing set too high, ignition problem (plugs, wires, cap), carburetor adjusted too lean, leaking egr valve. If you can’t find a reason for the high HC then perform balance test then compression test.
NOX too high = NOX forms in normal combustion. NOX too high indicates high combustion chamber temperatures or malfunctioning post-combustion emission controls.
CO and HC must be normal before attempting to repair NOX failure. Anything that can create high combustion chamber temperatures will make NOX reading high. Engine overheating, air cleaner hot air door stuck closed, egr vale not functioning, clogged egr valve passage, lean fuel mixture, ignition timing set too high. The two main systems that reduce NOX on a car are the egr system and catalytic converter. If your car is pinging, the NOX will be too high. Pinging is a symptom of high combustion chamber temperature. If all the test readings are just a little too high (slightly high CO, HC, and NOX) it is likely the catalytic converter is damaged or empty. If your converter is supposed to have air injection and it is disabled, the converter will not function properly.