Driving normally at highway speeds, this past week I have picked up a strong stumble. So much so, it feels like the fuel pump or ignition is shut off.
Being as I picked up a cheap fuel pump from Craigslist, I assumed that was the cause. Hooked up the gauge and I have a perfect steady 42 psi with vac line off and about 34 with it on. Preassure rises with throttle, so everything seems to check out.
I run codes, I get a 91 (lean drivers side) 34 (get out of range) and a air injection code.
I pulled the egr off since its really easy to get to, and its stuck and has a ton of black gunk. Cleaned it up, and minimal preassure moves it in and out. Looked at the smog pump, and I have a missing hose clamp. Whoops, wonder how long its been like that. Hooked that back up.
Unfortunately, engine was too hot to do the o2 sensor, so I let it be for now.
After messing with the egr and smog pump, I ran codes again. They still show up, havent cleared them yet. I then ran an engine cylinder ballance test. The motor isnt running smooth, but I had just ran codes and figured why not.
Got a 90 the first time and a number 5 the second.
Now obviously the o2 is going to affect the car running well and that is in the works for tomorrow. Ive noticed a drop in gas mileage too, so if thats all it is it would make me pretty happy.
So the plan right now is to swap that o2 and see where I am at tomorrow. Ill probably pull the number 5 plug while I am there and make sure it looks okay, but the plugs aren't that old.
The real question here, I've lucked out pretty good on o2 sensors. The only time ive really had to replace them was for emissions. I never really noticed a big difference in how the car ran. Can a bad o2 cause my bad stumble?
Bad spark plug wires cause interference on am radio.
I had an 88xr7. Tach never worked. It ran okay but needed a tune up and had a bad head gasket. When I removed the coil wire while I was doing some in related work, I put it back on and tach started working intermittently. When the tach died, it would start to stumble and miss. I figured it was caused by the bad head gasket.
Threw new spark plugs and wires at it after the headgasket repair and it worked fine.
I've swapped them, they were all used junkyard stuff so who knows if they were original or not. But I pulled a full 83 console with the lights in the side then used my 87 console bits because they were nicer.
My 86 tbird has 220k miles on it now, 100k since I bought it 3 years ago. I drive the out of it, pizza delivery and a ton of highway. Last winter I hit a bad patch of ice/snow and spun out. Straightened it out right before hitting the guard rail. Luckily it pretty much only rubbed on the tire but it bent the tie rod. I adjusted it out a bit just to get by without killong tires. Before that, the alignment was perfect.
But with all these miles on it, I lost a ball joint on a dirt road a while ago, and really haven't trusted everything else on the car since. I want to pretty much replace everything on there, including struts up front.
I would like to get as much adjustment as possible to fix a bit of caster/camber incase I bent something when I hit that guard rail.
As much as I would like caster/camber plates, I do not plan on lowering the car, just a basic stock rebuild. I was thinking about getting "crash bolts" to make sure everything is as good as I can get it, but I have no experience with them.
Every alignment ive gotten, the steering wheel ends up crooked or even upside down and they refuse to adjust everything as long as it is "in spec". I am going to try to do a drive way alignment after I replace everything to get everything as close as I can before I end up taking it somewhere to make sure its all as straight as I can get it first.
I plan on spending good money on balljoint. That one was pretty scarey. I'm glad I was under 10 mph on a dirt road when that one let go.
Pla warps pretty bad in a car interior in the summer.
The thicker you make the part the stronger, obviously. We've been making parts out of Pla dor model airplanes for a few years and they warp bad. Particullarly the wing mounts we've designed to be held on with rubber bands. Without the rubber bands they hold up okay if its not in sunlight.
Abs is slightly lighter bit not quite as rigid for the same part. Adhesion between layers is hard to get right though.
I used to use 1156 bulbs to discharge model airplane batteries. They pulled 12 watts (1 amp) each.
I dont think that a voltage drop would be very accurate, but I can't say I've researched it much. Also when measuring voltage on two different cars tail lights (my 86 cougar and 87 tbird) they were 9v at idle with the headlights on. There is pretty significant voltage drop.
Anything over 1/2 throttle in od should cause it to downshift. I can understand trying to keep it in a certain gear, but with stock motor and gearing 3rd is good for about 120mph.
I was saying the column trim covers for an mn12. The mn-12 is completely different. All fox parts are built on the same structure so most parts interchange
Yes, its pretty much identicle to the a fox mustang swap except you don't have to trim off the door handles. Ours are further back and do not interfere. The mn-12 cars use the same style steering wheel and column cover. The steering shaft a column is different. You have to trim a bit around the windshield.
You need the bumper or the cover will sag. The trim lines and body line up but are a different style. All 83-88 stuff is interchangeable. The 87-88 stuff has different headlight wiring. The 83 stuff is a bit different. The hood hinges are different and so are the front turn signals, clear instead of amber.
That tiny hole doesn't circulcirculae much, but when its really cold, it doesnt take much to cool the car either.
My 88 car I just bought, I havent had tome to mess with it. Brand new radiator and water pump. Previous owner said it overheated easy in summer time. Threw new parts at it and then stopped driving it. Leaks out of the timing cover so I haven't messed with it much. Found a empty box full of receipts in the trunk and it has a fail safe 180° thermostat in it.
We got about a foot of snow the other day and I have been in the hospital with a new baby. Went to start the car up to keep the battery charged up and dig out the car. In 45 mins it never went over the first bar on the digi gauge and wasn't even warm enough to defrost the windows.
I did a winter out in Montana. Warmest it got was -1°f the day we finished the job and drove home, before that it was -27 to -40°f the whole time we were there, plus wind chill. And it was blowing 40+mph most days. Never been that cold before. The car ran really good the whole winter with a good heater.s the plastic headlights didn't get warm enough to keep snow off them on extended winter drives though. Never had a problem overheating that summer when I got home. Went from -40°f to 110°f running a.c. with no changes. I miss that car.
Most "good" quality thermostats have a bleed hole in them. I've found that the hole just allows some coolant to bypass the thermostat. Also the more expensive ones tent to open up sooner and do not fully open until the temp rating.
Most cheap thermostats act more or less like an on off switch as they open and close.
So if you did have a bad radiator before, a better thermostat may have kept it from getting hot as fast, but now it might be overlooking.
As backwards as this sounds, I'd try swapping in a cheaper thermostat.
