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Messages - thunderjet302

1
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars WANTED / 87-88 Factory Turbo Coupe Snowflake Wheels
I'm looking for a set of four 87-88 Turbo Coupe 16"X7" factory Snowflake wheels. Either refinished to new or mint condition (i.e. look brand new). Most wheel refinishers online list one in stock, and I have a feeling they all get it from the same source, so there is probably literally only one for sale. If no one knows of a set or has one they would part with I'll just get the Snowflakes on my car refinished locally. But again if I'm going to buy a set they must be mint or refinished to factory new. Thanks.
2
Suspension/Steering / Re: RLCA.
Quote from: Chuck W – on
Quote from: thunderjet302 – on
Quote from: Chuck W – on
Quote from: thunderjet302 – on
I run Maximum Motorsports extreme duty adjustable RLCA and stock uppers with new bushings. The lowers have spherical bearings on each end, so you want the stock uppers with rubber bushings to prevent binding in the rear suspension.

Just a FYI if you go with the Maximum Motorsports RLCA.

The spherical bushings on both ends of the RLCAs allow for all of the articulation that the rear susp. needs. Poly bushings are what can cause the binding.

Rubber in the uppers will help with some NVH, but aren't required to reduce binding.

I asked Jack at MM about putting poly bushings in the stock uppers or adding tubular uppers with poly bushings with their control arms and he said not to. I'd have to find the email conversation but it was related to them causing articulation issues, even with the spherical bearings in the lower arms. Stock uppers with rubber bushings were what he recommended. Jack knows his stuff so I did what he recommended  ;).

Your post was worded like the spherical bearings in the lowers was the issue, not poly in the uppers. ;) (You didn't mention poly until now). And yes, Jack for certain knows what he's talking about.

Yeah, poly bushings feel great...right up until they don't. Then you're skittering off into the ditch.
You need some sort of allowance for articulation in the rear suspension.



Yeah it came out kinda confusing. I was trying to explain that with the MM RLCA you want to keep the stock uppers and rubber bushings so the suspension continues to articulate correctly. Don't add poly bushings to the stock uppers or replace them with tubular uppers. Just don't use poly bushings in the rear suspension period.

3
Suspension/Steering / Re: RLCA.
Quote from: Chuck W – on
Quote from: thunderjet302 – on
I run Maximum Motorsports extreme duty adjustable RLCA and stock uppers with new bushings. The lowers have spherical bearings on each end, so you want the stock uppers with rubber bushings to prevent binding in the rear suspension.

Just a FYI if you go with the Maximum Motorsports RLCA.

The spherical bushings on both ends of the RLCAs allow for all of the articulation that the rear susp. needs. Poly bushings are what can cause the binding.

Rubber in the uppers will help with some NVH, but aren't required to reduce binding.

I asked Jack at MM about putting poly bushings in the stock uppers or adding tubular uppers with poly bushings with their control arms and he said not to. I'd have to find the email conversation but it was related to them causing articulation issues, even with the spherical bearings in the lower arms. Stock uppers with rubber bushings were what he recommended. Jack knows his stuff so I did what he recommended  ;).
4
Suspension/Steering / Re: RLCA.
I run Maximum Motorsports extreme duty adjustable RLCA and stock uppers with new bushings. The lowers have spherical bearings on each end, so you want the stock uppers with rubber bushings to prevent binding in the rear suspension.

Just a FYI if you go with the Maximum Motorsports RLCA.
6
Misc Tech / Re: HR980 A/C Issues
Another option (won't look original) is to get the brackets for a FS6 compressor and have an AC shop make the lines for the car. Pricey though.
8
General Fox T-Bird/Cougar Discussion / Re: Kinda jonesin' for a Mark VII..
 :iagree:

I had a Mark VII for about 3 years. It was a nice car. A little heavy but comfortable. The air suspension was easy to fix as well. If I had another one I'd just replace the air suspension parts and call it good.

I also had an MN-12. Heavy car with garbage front suspension. I was never really happy with it.
12
Engine Tech / Re: Proper injectors for stock Speed Density 5.0
ECT out of range can happen if the test is run on a cold motor. If that's the case ignore it.

41, 42, 91, 92 narrows it down. Check the oxygen sensor harness. Make sure that the harness is intact and plugged in on the correct sides. If the right side oxygen senor is plugged into the left side oxygen senor connector (for example) then there will be all sorts of screwy problems.
13
Misc Tech / Re: Air Conditioner R134a conversion
Quote from: mcb82gt – on
Quote from: thunderjet302 – on
The new condenser is the parallel flow type used on SN95 Mustangs but listed as the stock replacement for 88 Thunderbirds.



Any info on the condenser?  Get it at RA as well?  Part number.  Thanks.

It's this one, part number 3554: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6377508&cc=1140297&pt=6708&jsn=910
14
Misc Tech / Re: Air Conditioner R134a conversion
So as a FYI when you buy the A/C compressor kit from Rock Auto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5241963&cc=1140297&pt=17507&jsn=1249 it includes a FS6 sized compressor (Four Seasons part number 58111). The FS6 compressor is larger than the factory Denso 6P148A compressor, hence the fitment issues with the rear compressor bracket. The FS6 size compressor is slightly longer and wider than the 6P148A compressor. So if you want a new 6P148A compressor, to make it a bolt in process, the compressor is available, just not as part of a kit that includes the accumulator line and orifice tube. It's Rock Auto part number 7511750: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3911826&cc=1140297&pt=6628&jsn=1257

That being said the compressor in the Four Seasons kit works fine, you'll just need to modify the stock rear bracket to make it work.
15
Misc Tech / Re: Air Conditioner R134a conversion
Well I replaced everything but the evaporator with brand new parts from Rock Auto (Four Seasons). Evap was flushed but not replaced. With the system charged with R134a to 80% of the R12 value vent discharge temp was 36*at idle with and outside temp of 76* and 70% humidity. It's uncomfortably cold in the cabin with the A/C on max. The new condenser is the parallel flow type used on SN95 Mustangs but listed as the stock replacement for 88 Thunderbirds.

There were a couple of issues with the installation. First off the new compressor is slightly larger and has the rear mounting ears about 1/4" further back than the stock compressor. I had to slot the stock bracket that bolts to the rear of the compressor so I could attach the rear mount. Secondly the fittings on the lines are R12 fittings. Normally just using the R134a adaptor fittings would be fine. But in my case they wouldn't allow the Maximum Motorsports strut tower brace to be installed, as it would hit the R134a fittings. So the adaptors for R134a were installed to charge the system and removed afterwards to clear the strut tower brace. Thirdly the high pressure line is right up against the Performer RPM intake. That wouldn't be an issue with the stock intake. My suggestion, if you have and aftermarket intake or a strut tower brace, is to use the 87-93 Mustang high and low pressure lines for more clearance.