I would use SN-95 struts, mainly due to the extended length. I picked up a set of the Koni non-adjustable orange struts(STR.T) for the LTS, which is the same as your 85 TBird. Decent choice for a driver. I've used KYBs as well, but they don't last too long.
On the rear, you really have no choice, if you want something decent. All of the 79-04 Mustang shocks are too short to use as-is. Either make yourself a set of my old lower shock brackets (I have the old drawings linked here on the forum) or get a set from 23Parts.com, as they've put them into production and should have them on their website.
Are you talking "base" V6 convertible, or V8 convertible?
On the GT and Cobra springs, there isn't a whole lot of difference. The Cobra spring rates are a slightly lower at first glance, but the progressive rate is different and get more aggressive as you compress the springs more. They might feel "softer". The load rating is about the same. The V6 springs have a linear rate (on all 4 corners IIRC, but for sure on the rear). They also have a lower load rating. Not recommended.
Somewhere I have the specs for all of the standard 96-98 springs based on the 3-letter codes. It has been over 25 years since I was digging around in these. If I have a look, I might find the paper with the details.
In '99, Ford changed the way the values on the springs were listed on the tags. Before that, you would have the 3-letter code and the spring and load ratings listed (Metric). Such as "RRR" which was a '96-98 Cobra rear spring had "28.9/3470" which is the spring rate in N/mm and load rating in N. Converting that to lbs/in and lbs is 28.9x5.7 lbs/in and 3470/4.44 lbs. Or 165 lbs/in and 780lbs. As an example, the stock rear springs in my old '84 XR 7 were "JAD" "33/4200" (185 lbs/in and 944 lbs)
In the end, the main difference in the springs is the load rating, as they changed what springs were in the cars based on options, etc. The V8 convertible springs were always the highest load rating, which is what I tended to use on the rear of my cars. (I have always tried to use Motorsport C-Kits on the front). You can see in the example above, the rear springs on our cars are kind of beefy.
Anyway, probably a lot more than you asked for, but it does remind me to try and find that info, for posterity sake.
Chuck, how does a 1980-82 Thunderbird/XR-7 strut compare to a 1983-86 car?
They used the same(or similar) style of strut mounts as the others did, so the same would apply. On the 2 that I had , one got a set of my custom strut mounts and the other got a set of the KYB/Moog like above. I probably used Fox KYBs struts. (It's been forever ago, and my notes are pictures are more limited on those builds)
Longtubes would've been even more of a hassle. The 6R80 is already tight enough the in the trans tunnel .
When I left off, I was going to toss the rack into the car, so I could get the steering shaft where it needed to be. Ran into a small snag. I had to make more adjustments to my motor mounts, as the rack was running into the oil pan before I could get it into place.
Spent some time early this afternoon modifying the mounts to raise the engine up a touch (about 1/4"). That gave me the room I needed for the rack so I got it mocked up.
I found a 3" to 2-1/2" conical reducer that should do what I need. To test it, I 3D printed up a copy and dropped it all in place.
I might get more room with a regular stepped reducer, but I kind of like the flow of this one, and if I need a little "clearance" dent it shouldn't be too bad. I'll need to extend it a bit past the end of the reducer, and then I need to turn down to clear the firewall and get under the car. I'll need to add a bung for the front O2 sensor and I'll probably make a (v-band) connection before the turn down. The X-pipe is 2-1/2", so I'll just be keeping with that theme all the way to the back.
The downside of raising things up a bit is now the intake hits the hood. (Like thick paper contact). It's on one of the underhood support bits, so another clearancing dent should be sufficient.
Another thing I ran into while digging into wiring involves the fuel system. I'm wanting to stay with the stock return-less set-up and use the stock FPCM. I came across a possible issue with that involving the RCM (Restraints Control Module). Back in the late 00's, Ford did away with the intertia switch and replaced it with an "ENS" signal from the RCM to the FPCM. If the module, which is tied into crash sensors, ABS, SRS, etc) senses a problem or in a crash, it kills the FP through the FPCM. This car is from WAY before the implementation of all of that, so there's no RCM in the car. All of Ford's "control packs" just are set up to run a return-type fuel system and don't deal with it.
After finding the copy of Ford's patent for the set-up, I may have a solution for spoofing that signal, though. Picking some brains bigger than mine on it and will know more when I have more parts in hand.
That lower section is telescoping (This is the fancy MM conversion steering shaft).
Shoving the upper portion into the receiver on the column more may allow for clearance of the u-joint, but the lower section still needs to angle more. I need to toss the rack in there to see exactly where things fall, but some sort of modification is going to be needed.
So I had about an hour to work on this today (and the weather was decent)
Quickly pulled the DS manifold off and confirmed my suspicions that the contact was going to be even worse.
I took the cut-off to the
My thought to use the angling of the bend there to rotate the exhaust away from the steering shaft isn't going to work. It does move the outlet away, but the interference stays about the same. Going to have to extend the outlet past the steering shaft a bit, and then make the connection.
It's usually good to have a little bit of flex in the exhaust. The engine moves around a bit on the stock mounts. That might've caused your leaking issue.
On your WG and actuator. Checking the WGA by applying pressure to it is a good route. Easier to see if it holds pressure and/or moves smoothly.
Removing the ball from your MBC just made it act like you had a direct connection between the turbo boost reference and the WGA. The limit will be whatever the WGA is stock.
I haven't gotten to the point to put mine away for the winter yet, but I think it's getting close.
While digging through the wiring, I did a recheck of the steering shaft to manifold clearance, which was a little bit of an issue when placing everything. Well, the new MM steering shaft made things worse (the u-joint is bigger than the stock one) and I can't/don't want to move the engine any more to the pass side. The contact is basically right on the connection to the manifold outlet and the pipe . I'm gonna need like another 1/2" of clearance, which I don't have without a lot of rework of things.
Pondering ideas, I went looking into what aftermarket exhaust options there were. Looking around ebay, I found these---for $100
I thought, for that price I can afford to gamble on modifying them. Seeing as I have to custom build the connection between the manifolds and the X-pipe, I have a little bit of freedom. The X-pipe was another $100 Marketplace find for an SN-95
Two ideas. The first is to cut right between the and the collector, on the angle. I think I can possibly rotate the outlet towards the engine a bit to gain clearance. Option two is to cut the off and add a section of pipe to clear the steering shaft and then add a connection below that.
Either way, I'll also be adding a flex section at the front of the X, to give these thin-walled headers a bit of protection.
My evenings lately have been pouring over wiring diagrams, sorting out what needs to go where. Luckily, most of the engine and transmission/starter/charging wiring is all contained in the existing engine harness. I really only need to focus on the "body" harness connector.
41 wire connections that most of which I'll probably be using. the MAF sensor wiring comes into this, as well as the connections for the FPCM and the EVAP stuff (Yes, I'm keeping full emissions stuff on this) and the DataLink (OBDII) connection. I've put together a chart with all of the terminations and whether they're a "Cabin" or "Engine Bay" connection.
I made the discovery that I already have a power feed for the Volvo electric PS pump, since the Mustangs used an electric PS rack. Both also are controlled via CANBUS, so I got to wondering if I can use the Ford signal to control the pump (based on speed, or what-have-you). Haven't sorted that detail out yet. Worst case, I have a little stand-alone controller I can use and set to a constant assist value.
Back at it for a bit today. mainly sorting out wiring details and a couple other bits.
Trying to sort out all of the needed wiring I need to save or repurpose from the LTD stuff. Need to save things like power feeds, AC control stuff, and separating the lighting wiring from the other stuff that's not going to be needed.
For the lighting, I'm planning on doing an H4 conversion, like I did on the TBird, and run the headlamp power from the battery, through relays, and just use the old circuits from the headlight switch as triggers.
This is all of the front end light wiring. I'm going to remove the extra bits from the cornering lamps that aren't used and remove the headlight plugs, as I'll be replacing them with a new, uprated harness.
This pic may cause some folks a bit of stress, but there's a method to my madness.
Seeing as I'll be needing to add relays, etc for fan(s), lighting, fuel system, I thought I'd go a different route instead of piecing together another aftermarket set-up (like on the TBird)
I picked up a fuse box for a 2011 Mustang and will use that, to take advantage of some of the wiring and circuit protection already being in place.
The extra circuits/relays I can repurpose to run things like the lighting circuits, as well as repurpose some of the unused J-case fuses to replace the fusible links on the power circuits I need to reuse from the LTD.
Gonna be a little tedious to sort through, but I think I can manage it
To finish up, I bolted the later intake on with the throttle body. Just to have something fun to look at (and close up the intake).