If you see something that interest you please don't hesitate to contact me. Please be patient because I will need to dig the part bin out of my shed and take pictures to send you.
I am looking for the inner marker lights for a '88 TC that are not in good condition. I have an idea I would like to experiment with.
4 power window motors Sold 4 power door lock switches with door bezels $5 each 3 red glove box doors $10 each Ride control computer and mounting bracket $5 Power antenna, premium fuel, ride control switches and panel $10 1 headlights, fog lights switches and panel assembly, 1 headlights, fog lights switches, auto-aim/auto lamp and panel assembly $10 each 2 red door sill plates $10 pair Red dash, some small cracks at defroster vents, no major cracks $50 Red drivers door speaker grill, small crack coming from top screw hole $5 2 charcoal dash surrounds $15 each 2 charcoal radio surrounds $10 each Charcoal steering column surround $5 Red door speaker grills from 86, same size, shape as 87-88 but only 2 mounting screw holes $10 pair 1 set front directional lights (outer corners) pretty clear $50/set 2 instrument clusters for parts, good flex circuits $5 each Set of headlight buckets with good adjusters $10 Intercooler ductwork and seal $20 NOS brake proportioning valve $75 NOS steering wheel contact ring, controls horn, cruise circuits $35 Prices do not include shipping.
My car began misfiring at idle and lower RPM's. Revved up and in the boost it appeared as if the miss would disappear.
I started with changing the spark plugs (gap .028 to .03), new wires, cap & rotor. Ran better, but misfire was still present. Borrowed a smoke machine to check for vacuum leaks and nothing present.
Ran Codes: 10 System Check 11 Pass Code 14 Ignition Profile Pickup Circuit Failure (PIP) 41 O2 code for out of range or low voltage (makes sense with misfire)
I was under the impression if the PIP has a problem, starting the car becomes difficult or impossible?
Could this be simply the PIP going bad?
Side note, a week before this happened my daughter turned 16 y.o. and I was giving lessons with the 'Bird since she claims it is her's when I sell. She needs some more lessons and how to control the gas pedal without hitting the redline. Kinda wish i put the MSD in with the rpm limit.
About a month or so ago I thought my fuel pump went bad so I replaced it with a Walbro 255 lph that I had waiting to install. Ran fine for a few hundred miles until yesterday 1/2 mile from home.
Replaced the TFI cause it was erratic on running / not running yesterday. Thought I was gonna need a tow but it started and ran perfect to get it home.
I tried to warm the car up to set the timing after replacing the TFI (It's easier to remove the distributor to change TFI on the 2.3). Runs for a few minutes and dies. Timing light is flashing so I know I have spark. Fuel pump does prime when i turn the ignition on for starting. Doesn't prime every time I cycle the key back to back.
I get the car to run for a few moments to see the fuel pressure at 35 psi at idle then drop and the car dies.
I found the inertia switch and the white button is floppy. Doesn't seem to do anything either direction.
The intermittent thing has me thinking it isn't the inertia switch, but not sure. Should the button be floppy on the switch? What next to check?
I am guessing the trunk lids are different between the Cougar and Thunderbird? Is the Cougar similar to a Mustang lid?
Is the '87-88 Thunderbird lid different from the previous years?
A friend in the Foxbody club makes interior covers for the Mustangs and just picked up my extra trunk lid to setup on. He's going to put the Thunderbird image I have on my wheels into it too.
I am going to start bugging him about hood insulation after this......
Unfortunately, it looks as if my re-manufactured rear caliper on the driver side sprung a leak and now the Hawk pads on that side are soaked. It is DOT 4 brake fluid not sure if it makes any difference.
If I didn't spend the extra coin on these pads I would just replace the pads, but curious if the Hawk pads can be cleaned. I see online that the brake fluid is water soluble and the puddle in my driveway cleaned up well. I am just not sure how long it has been leaking since I oddly don't notice a brake pedal feel change.
My son and I attended the Foxbody Club of Connecticut cruise this past Sunday. All the cars there were Mustang/Capri's with one LTD Station Wagon and then us in the TC.
I have been chasing vacuum leaks and a smoke machine was a real saver.
There is a rubber adapter that connects the boost gauge hose to the vacuum that is very dry rotted on my car. I need to replace it and unable to visit the autopart stores as of right now. Anyone replace this before? I have searched around online, but I think my vocabulary for the search is incorrect. I have temporarily safety wired it in place. I am going to need it for the hose that runs to the HVAC and EGR controller too.
Or is there a better way to go about this than replacing that adapter?
Recently on long hills in 3rd near WOT and about 10psi of boost the car starts "missing". Does not do it in the other lower gears and have not noticed it in 4th or 5th.
The plugs have about 3000 miles on them. I have another set to put in when I go to check. I was originally thinking maybe the gap was too big and lower it. Second guessing myself now that maybe I am running out of fuel? I am on the original size pump.
I am not ready yet to do a 5 lug swap and remove the TEVES. Maybe in a couple years.
The brakes in my car feel "vague" is about the only way I can describe it. The pedal doesn't give much feedback what is going on. I have done a couple emergency stops but the wheels didn't lock up so I assume the ABS works, but I didn't the clatter of it turning on either.
The rotors and pads look fairly new on the car, but I am not opposed to swapping them out. I am planning on bleeding the brakes, replacing the pins in the front and find the shims for the pads if any.
Any suggestions on what else to do other than bleeding the lines? Maybe some other pads?
There's several products out there for removing rust. I would like to see what others have used to see before and after results.
For smaller parts that I can fit in a coffee can/bucket I have had good success with Evapo-Rust. The hardware shown is off my old dirt bike that was in a damp garage that I soaked over night in the Evapo-Rust.
Before:
After:
I did need to paint/protect the parts after the chemical treatment or they would rust up pretty quickly.
I am curious on other products for larger parts like the Rusty 911 that Chuck mentioned in another thread.