time for the pro audio overhual NEW PICS..

Topic: time for the pro audio overhual NEW PICS.. (Read 9171 times) previous topic - next topic

time for the pro audio overhual NEW PICS..

Reply #30 – April 06, 2008, 12:18:44 AM

Could easy run 2 speakers, deeper speaker up top in the mount. Put a tweeter up in the plate that covers the bolts for the mirror like those out of my moms cobra. I dont know I guess I will have to go to an audio shop. I just dont want them to install, costs to much, and they might mess up my interior.

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Reply #31 – April 06, 2008, 12:23:40 AM

I'd say go with midbass in the doors and tweeters in the dash. The combination of the two (especially if you go with titanium tweeters) will fill everything above 150 Hz (depending on the midbass). The midbass MUST have a solid mount to the door or you will lose your bass as the mount will flex. The point of the midbass is NOT to give you real bass -- it is a MIDbass! Real bass sound waves have a wavelength BIGGER THAN YOUR CAR so that's why you only need one sub. If you REALLY want to make sure that you have that 12-150Hz fully filled in you could go with 8's in addition to a larger sub, and just put them all in the trunk, but IMHO that's overkill. A 10" and maybe a 12" would also do the trick, but once again I think that's overkill. Once you get to 10" and up, enclosure design is far more important than sub size, IMHO. The smaller the sub, the larger the enclosure you will need, so I'd say pick something that best matches your musical taste. If you listen to rock AND rap, I'd recommend a 12" as a good compromise without sacrificing all your trunk space.

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Reply #32 – April 06, 2008, 12:31:51 AM

2 12;s or one 15 is how im going. Depends how i can get the boxes to fit. I want to be able to keep it down and have good overall bass, but be able to turn it up and rattle the car apart.
Think im gonna run a 6 1/2 in the top and bottom with a tweeter up high and thats it.
Not sure about the back yet. I think that will do me good.
trunk space hahah, I could re install the factory carpet cover for the abs computer and factory amp, and I would lose about a foot of trunk. I can put a big ass box in tthat space and still fit 2 people in my trunk hahaha

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Reply #33 – April 06, 2008, 12:35:13 AM

Quote from: daboss351;212752

2 12;s or one 15 is how im going. Depends how i can get the boxes to fit. I want to be able to keep it down and have good overall bass, but be able to turn it up and rattle the car apart.
Think im gonna run a 6 1/2 in the top and bottom with a tweeter up high and thats it.
Not sure about the back yet. I think that will do me good.

I'd STRONGLY recommend against the 15". A friend of mine went that route, and it sounded TERRIBLE. He could play rap to his heart's content, but rock sounded awful as rock has "musical bass" -- it uses a large fraction of the bass frequency range, and the 15" doesn't have the agility to keep up -- all the subtlety was lost, and the result was really muddy. Just awful. He was really knowledgeable about autosound, and he was very disappointed in the result. He was mulling over cutting holes in his rear deck for some 8's forever -- that's how bad the 15" sounded. A pair of 12's has the POTENTIAL to sound much better, if you pick the subs and the enclosures wisely.

Honestly, though, I don't see why two 12's are of ANY more benefit than one. They would have to operate in phase, so at that point it makes more sense to me to just pick a higher-power sub/amp combo. All you're doing with two subs is producing more amplitude, but you can do that with more wattage. It really doesn't take that much wattage to make loud bass, unless you're one of those people who likes to make old farts like me hear your radio from a mile away -- at which point, you'd better wish you don't drive by someone who owns a rifle and scope

Remember, kiddies, when you enter a residential area (or drive by one), TURN YOUR RADIO DOWN. People there WORK for a living and have to sleep. I can pump out 650 watts which is plenty loud (enough to damage my hearing, since I don't listen to rap), but I turn mine down when appropriate. LOUD music, well, that's what I-95 is made for :D

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Reply #34 – April 06, 2008, 12:43:01 AM

Thats the advice I need
yea I intend to get a NICE ported and chambered box, set up for what I want. No cheapo junk plywood box. Subs will not be skimmped. My brother has a 12in p3 rockford punch, rockford amp, which is a nice sub, but he didnt break it in well, and it blew. But puts out some serious bass, but its a cheap 50 buck bestbuy box.
My stepmom s has one 10 rockford p3 in her car, but in a rockford chambered ported box, with a GOOD kenwood deck, and a GOOD kenwood amp, all professionally installed(sub and amps are only thing I will not install.) That thing takes EVERYTHING i threw at it, till it blew the amp fuse, and i was no were near blowing the sub. Gives you one hell of a massage!! But I want more bass, but same control as whats in her car. So actually 2 10's or 12's depending what I get a better deal on is how its going.

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Reply #35 – April 06, 2008, 12:47:24 AM

Quote from: Quietleaf;212743

You could do what I did...seek out experts. I went to an autosound shop that's involved in competitions (and wins a lot of them). Actually, I went on the recommendation of a friend, and I was impressed with the people there--they're really meticulous about getting it "right" from the standpoint of sound quality, though with some of the staff changes over the years I don't know if they still have the expertise they used to. Really doing it right can cost quite a bit, but when you're on a budget (as I was at the beginning) that's where talking to experts really helps -- they will know which are the best compromises to make.

You want to be careful picking them out, though. For instance, the people I went to were Gen-X'ers like me and listened to similar music. If you go to someone who only listens to rap, expect to get a system tuned just for that :D

i work at a few stereo shops back in the day..

beleave it or not if done right you can any system to play all music types and would sound corect for what ever you played

back in the day when i was installing i had a 82 mustang GT.

i had two 8's and four 6 1/2's mtx black gold the only mtx speakers i ever liked and are not made anymore in the tire well in the hatch. mounted on 1 1/2" particle board.
ran off an old alphsonik pma2100 100 watts a ch

and one 6 1/2" black gold woofer in each door and 1" silk dome tweeters
with one 3 1/2" full range speaker capped to about 800hz up in each of the four A/C ducts ran off an alphasonik pma 4035 4ch 35watts each ch.

one day at the shop i worked at had a sound off.. the best that day was a bronco with 4 15's in a box of course ran of two hifonic zues's
which 300 watts a ch two amp's =1200 watts and a bunch of other speakers for mids and highs ran off a 4 ch hifoics gemeni or something.

so after the sound off my boss wanted me to pull my car in to see what it could do.. anytime a big audio system came in the for an in stall i was allways ask it get involved.. so anyway so they set up the spl mike up in my car and my boss ask the winner if we could use the cd and what song he played to win so i played it and came two points of what he got..

the guy was like WTF! that can't be all you got no way! i laughed and my boss said nope thats all he's got in the car..

as a joke we told the guy he could take the car apart to find more speakers and amp's but you won't find any.. and you will have to put the car back together..

oh and heres a link if you would like to see what most amp's are made of from the inside

http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/

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Reply #36 – April 06, 2008, 12:58:52 AM

Exactly. It doesn't take nearly as much as some people think to get outstanding sound quality. Sometimes I wonder if the only reason people go with the crazy amount of subs (six subs?!) and crazy wattage is purely for "bling". Instead of comparing d**ks, we're comparing watts and subs. Just stupid. Tuning is far more effective than anything else. My sub box was custom-made, I'm sure you're familiar with how they calculate the optimum box based on sub characteristics. Unfortunately it was way too big to be practical in the long run and I had to go with something smaller eventually. I've never been happy with the bass response since, and I'm mulling a change at some point. The best advice I can offer is that people who really know how to eke out sound quality won't be telling you to "throw speakers at the problem".

Some more questions to ask:

"Do I have the EARS for going the extra mile?"
"Will the music I listen to take advantage of this?" Because Rap sure as heck does not, in most cases.
"Does my car have the sound isolation to justify this, that, or the other thing?" Remember, our cars aren't Mercedes', and they have crazy wind noise.

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Reply #37 – April 06, 2008, 01:15:01 AM

i went with 12's and pro 12's is they are tight you can barely move the cone in the basket.. if it was a car 12" it would move way to much i really hate large woofers unless they are pro meaning for live sound..if the woofers i used moved more then 3/4'' of an inch it would be ripped out of the basket.. aside of pumping 2000watts threw then thats not going to happen..

like i said the only reason why changed from the four 8's is because about 98% of the dvd's i have in the car is live concerts..and the 8's could'nt handle the way most live concerts are recorded in the way they mike the bass drum and bass guitar..

lol the box with the four 8's is another thing i have to see if anyone wants at cat jam this year

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Reply #38 – April 07, 2008, 03:08:53 AM

Sorry was not a smart @$$ question not sure if you remeber my old set-up but i was thinking about getting this Cd player or last years model thats almost the same.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Source/CD-Players/Pioneer/DEH-P4000UB

I hope to see you get it all ordered and installed soon and that it sounds good whatever music you listen to on it.

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Reply #39 – April 07, 2008, 05:08:08 PM

it looks like i nice unit.

front and rear pre amp out puts with a sub output..
mp3's for you mp3 buffs that like their music compressed like garbage in a garbage truck:D and sore tooth tech,and at a nice price..

the only thing i don't like about most car stereos made today is they boast about"quote"high volt preamp outs ie 2,3&4 or more volt out put.. what a waste.

most people would say i don't know what i'm talking about..

but!the correct preamp output is .775 volts.per channel
thats in pro audio ie live gigs and home audio.. and is the same for car audio all so..

but some would argue that point..

why do i say this?

because! about 25 years ago give or take when car stereos started to getting popular some moe or moe's desided hey if we increase the voltage at the preamp the amp will pump harder and be louder! and put gains on the inputs of the amp's all so..putting gains on car amp's in one way is good why?

because the real reason for the is to match the preamp voltage since car stereo preamp out puts range from say .1-8.0 volts..

most amp gains have a label on it.. one side of the dial will say 100mv and on the other side say 2,4or8volts

so if or deck has 2 volt outputs you set the dial to 2volts which matchs the outputs to inputs.which is lmfao .775 volts to the main inputs

example if you have 2volt outputs and you set the gain to it's highest setting say 8 volts the music will sound low and if you set it to the lowest setting say .100mv the music will be much louder then if you set it to 2 volts but!
1 it may overload the input output stages and may in time fry them.
2 and or fry you driver down the road..

the reason for the fried driver is. direct 12 volts DC will fry a driver

and driver can only handle 4-8 volts max and if you have 4 volt or higher outputs on you deck and you set the gain to 100mv the extra voltage tens to roll over in to the output stage of the amp's..

when people say i fried my speakers and they know way it happed ie sending 12 volts to the speakers. either the amp shiznit the bed or the voltage roll over way to much..

the other reason to match the gains is most times with the preamp's overloaded the amp will clip or worse the speakers will start to distort..

i know i ramble a lot;)

Nick

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Reply #40 – April 07, 2008, 05:47:12 PM

Quote from: Quietleaf;212753

Honestly, though, I don't see why two 12's are of ANY more benefit than one. They would have to operate in phase, so at that point it makes more sense to me to just pick a higher-power sub/amp combo. All you're doing with two subs is producing more amplitude, but you can do that with more wattage. It really doesn't take that much wattage to make loud bass, unless you're one of those people who likes to make old farts like me hear your radio from a mile away -- at which point, you'd better wish you don't drive by someone who owns a rifle and scope

Remember, kiddies, when you enter a residential area (or drive by one), TURN YOUR RADIO DOWN. People there WORK for a living and have to sleep. I can pump out 650 watts which is plenty loud (enough to damage my hearing, since I don't listen to rap), but I turn mine down when appropriate. LOUD music, well, that's what I-95 is made for :D

Missed that
I turn it down a bit on small streets, and after 9, other then that it will only be loud to piss off the ricer/ wiggers. Other then that, the CAR is loud enough to piss off you old farts never mind the stereo, hee hee...

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Reply #41 – April 08, 2008, 09:19:40 PM

Quote from: Blown306Cougar;212968

*snip*

I got lost after the first couple sentences...none of how I read it (perhaps not how you meant to write it) made any sense. Voltage output won't make much of a difference as it is only at the peak volume levels that you will see the stated voltage. Anything less, you'll be getting much less than .1v out of the preamp lines at any one time (the amp only multiplies this voltage). This is all in AC, nowhere are we dealing with DC power out to an amp or speakers. 2v vs 8v preamp outputs won't make much of a difference other than the last few volume "points" in the head unit's menu being a little more clear.

The gain settings on amps are only there to match the amp up with the output of the head unit. You never just "match up the numbers". Typically the volume level is set to limit that the user would like to be the "normal" maximum volume (with room to spare for quieter tracks) and set the gain so that the output is the desired voltage to give the wattage that the amp is capable of without clipping. Ideally you'd want speakers, resisters, whatever hooked up when doing this but it is not necessary. NEVER set the gains blindly and ideally you want to use an oscilloscope to detect when the amp begins to clip. Of course, this topic in itself of gain settings gets a lot more detailed and people set their gains different ways. GAIN IS NOT A VOLUME for those that like to think so.

I'm sure I missed somewhere in this thread about someone putting DC into a speaker - that won't work any way you look at it. Plugging a 4ohm nominal speaker into a wall socket will give you roughly 3000w to it.

Car audio will always suck compared to a properly setup room so try out equipment, do a GOOD install in your car (install matters much more than speakers or amps in terms of both sound quality and output), and just enjoy it. Never will you get perfect frequency response when driving down the road. Car off, it is possible with enough time to try out different configurations, possibly different drivers, and EQ/TA/tweak the system.

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Reply #42 – April 15, 2008, 07:40:06 PM

i hav'nt posted on this in about a week..
anyway

seek..
i know the outputs to the drivers are AC.. the amp converts AC to DC.. in short what i was trying to say was when you overload the inputs/outputs the outputs start sending DC to the speakers..even though the outputs send AC to the speakers the transistors are powered by DC and switch on and off about every nano second..just like an injector going static if it stays on to long it will turn your amp heat sink into a hot plate that you can fry eggs on.. and or fry the transistors first.. if the amp does'nt shut down first or fry the transistors first the transistors will start sending DC to the speaker or speakers and fry the voice coil of the drivers .oh and where did i say "snip?" you quoted me saying snip.. huh lol

Nick

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Reply #43 – April 15, 2008, 07:43:44 PM

and for those who wanted to see how i got all the speakers in the doors..

and like i said it all looks factory in the front and rear with the panels and grills on..

Nick

Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums

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Reply #30 – April 06, 2008, 12:18:44 AM

time for the pro audio overhual NEW PICS..

Reply #31 – April 06, 2008, 12:23:40 AM

time for the pro audio overhual NEW PICS..

Reply #32 – April 06, 2008, 12:31:51 AM

time for the pro audio overhual NEW PICS..

Reply #33 – April 06, 2008, 12:35:13 AM

time for the pro audio overhual NEW PICS..

Reply #34 – April 06, 2008, 12:43:01 AM

time for the pro audio overhual NEW PICS..

Reply #35 – April 06, 2008, 12:47:24 AM

time for the pro audio overhual NEW PICS..

Reply #36 – April 06, 2008, 12:58:52 AM

time for the pro audio overhual NEW PICS..

Reply #37 – April 06, 2008, 01:15:01 AM

time for the pro audio overhual NEW PICS..

Reply #38 – April 07, 2008, 03:08:53 AM

time for the pro audio overhual NEW PICS..

Reply #39 – April 07, 2008, 05:08:08 PM

time for the pro audio overhual NEW PICS..

Reply #40 – April 07, 2008, 05:47:12 PM

time for the pro audio overhual NEW PICS..

Reply #41 – April 08, 2008, 09:19:40 PM

time for the pro audio overhual NEW PICS..

Reply #42 – April 15, 2008, 07:40:06 PM

time for the pro audio overhual NEW PICS..

Reply #43 – April 15, 2008, 07:43:44 PM

time for the pro audio overhual NEW PICS..

Reply #44 – April 15, 2008, 07:45:59 PM