84 XR-7 Project

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84 XR-7 Project

Reply #105 – June 12, 2017, 09:11:00 AM

255 lph Ford Focus SVT pump is what you need and it drops right in.

https://k-mansparts.com/ford-mustang-focus-255-lph-returnless-fuel-pump-m-pfs-204-detail.htm

84 XR-7 Project

Reply #106 – June 12, 2017, 02:18:31 PM

What did you end up painting the underside with? Regular paint?

84 XR-7 Project

Reply #107 – June 12, 2017, 06:10:02 PM

It's Rust-Oleum semi-gloss black. It's just to have some protection. Later on I'll do it properly.

As for the fuel pump, thanks for the suggestion. I'll keep it in mind if my pump dies.

84 XR-7 Project

Reply #108 – June 14, 2017, 12:38:46 PM

Here are a few pics of the car getting it's temporary color change. This was the weekend prior to Memorial Day weekend.

Once I had the fuel line run, I threw in the rear. It was at this point that I took a step back and said, "nope, not happening." I still have to figure out where to run the vapor line and how to run the brake line to the back. I still need to decide on a brake hose to go from body to rear. The '84 setup might interfere with the passenger side tail pipe. So I'm looking for suggestions on a brake hose that will work and not be too long, like the truck hoses. It needs to come down from the center of the car to the center of the rear.

I'm using Fox shocks with the brackets inverted. When I get around to it, I'll build myself a set of Chuck mounts. This should work just to have the car mobile until I can get it down south.

84 XR-7 Project

Reply #109 – June 14, 2017, 02:06:28 PM

Use the stock Fox 8.8 rear end brake line setup. It is hard lined to a fitting that mounts in the drive shaft tunnel just above the pinion. From there a soft line goes to the rear end and the hard lines that run along the axle tubes attach to the soft line. Depending on whether you have drum brakes or disc will determine how the axle tube hard lines attach to the brakes.

So you will need this:
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-2073BRKT/mustang-v8-rear-upper-brake-hose-bracket-86-93?year=1990&gclid=CjwKEAjwvYPKBRCYr5GLgNCJ_jsSJABqwfw7c4ffU6NGO6UxsHnzM3_nhO6YoExLRFyj35fEepCPHBoC5N3w_wcB

And then this:
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-2282B/86-95-Mustang-88-Rear-End-Center-Upper-Rear-Brake-Hose

So you will need to build or modify the rear brake line from the front of the car to the first item and than build the lines from the second item to the rear brakes.

If you have rear disc then you will need to correct soft lines from the calipers to the hard lines on the axles.

84 XR-7 Project

Reply #110 – June 15, 2017, 08:59:21 AM

Wow...I've been looking for that part for about two months. They must have JUST released it. The only place I could find it was eBay, used for about triple the cost. I wanted to go that route but like I said I couldn't find a reasonable used or alternative part. Thanks for the find! It really made no sense to me how they could sell the hose but not the fitting on the other end. Just like it doesn't really make sense to me why Ford used a banjo bolt at that location. Oh well, problem solved!

And I have a TC rear that I had to put the New Edge rotors and calipers on to go 5 lug. The TC brake hoses on the diff housing work. So with the Mustang rear hose, I'll just need to whip up 2 short pieces of line to finish off the rear.

I haven't decided how I'm going to run the line to the back of the car just yet. My SFC took away any easy pathway for any lines/cables to run the length of the car. The K-member also got rid of the cross over. So I might run the rear line down the driver side through the drive shaft tunnel.

84 XR-7 Project

Reply #111 – June 16, 2017, 01:09:08 PM

Look at how the rear and right front brake line is run on an 86-93 Fox Mustangs along the top of the firewall. I went to a salvage yard and got them back in the day but you can now get them here:

https://sstubes.com/products-ford-cars-replacement-automotive-lines#/specFilters=43!#-!636!-#!25!#-!316

84 XR-7 Project

Reply #112 – October 05, 2017, 02:20:09 PM

This will be the last update of this thread. Once I get settled and can work on the car again, if ever, I'll begin a new one.

As of Sunday Oct. 08, '17, the move will become official. It's been pushed back a bit, for me anyway. I was supposed to go first, secure a place to live, then my wife would come down shortly after. My wife, however landed a job immediately and has been living/working since mid-July in South Carolina. I stayed behind to finish some things.

One of those things was my Cougar. Not 'finished' but mobile. I haven't worked on it much since my last update. Trying to save money and get other loose ends tied up put a stop to most of the progress. It's finally off the rotisserie and on all four wheels. Two very major issues became apparent immediately.

First:

It sits like a monster truck! I have Eibach Mustang convertable springs installed. The front sits higher than with the 2.3T installed. The rear sits a good 2 maybe 3 inches higher than before, and that's with the MM rear lowers adjusted as low as possible, with a lot of extra weight in the trunk. The rear will sit higher in street trim. I'm confused about the rear. The tires used to tuck a bit with the stock lowers. The front sits way high as well, but I think that is caused by something else.

I give you the second major issue:

The fenders are just sitting on the car, not bolted, no shims. Even if there were shims, that intake would still be a good 2 inches too high. I've looked at a lot of 4v Fox swaps and no other fox car requires a cowl hood to fit this engine. I don't know if it's because of the solid mounts I bought(which were stupid cheap) or the k-member. Either way, I have 1/2" spacers under the main k-member mounting pads just to get it to bolt to my car. I won't feel comfortable with 2 1/2" spacers up front and 2" on the rear pads just to get the hood to fit. Also the X-pipe points into the ground behind the transmission. That tells me the engine is super high. There's no adjustment in the X-pipe either as only 1 side has a ball-socket joint, the other is a and that removes any adjustment. Also when I bounce the car, the strutshiznit their upper stops, so another indication something isn't right.

I'm not too worried about it though...as I don't know when I'll be able to get the car down south and start making progress again. Plus I'm leaning towards a Coyote swap now. This engine will probably make it into my Lincoln, or another Mark if I find one down south.

Last pic:

Just threw on the header and TC bumper, mostly to show my dad that the bumper is usable as he keeps insisting that it's junk and I need a new one.

So that's it for this leg of the project. Thanks to all who helped getting me to this point. I hope things work out for the best and I can get back to wrenching on this bad boy sooner than later. When the time comes, a new project thread will be started.

84 XR-7 Project

Reply #113 – October 05, 2017, 10:25:37 PM

Set a straight edge or pull a string across the bottom of the hood and measure then do the same on the fenders. With the bump up in the center of the hood it might be ok.

Good to see it on its wheels.

84 XR-7 Project

Reply #114 – October 06, 2017, 10:12:42 AM

Well awesome progress but I agree...it is sitting quite high. And the hood clearance is a tough one...betting that spacing out the K-member would probably do it. Of course there's always a cowl hood but I can understand why you'd want to keep the current hood.

As always, your contributions are appreciated and that's gonna be a bad-ass Cat when it's done. Continued luck with life's journey.

84 XR-7 Project

Reply #115 – October 06, 2017, 03:17:06 PM

Here is the view across my fenders. Supercharger pulley sticks up and so does the strut tower brace. Have an 87-88 hood on and I have enough clearance to get my fingers between the tightest spots. Using factory ford motor mounts for 2003 mustang and have 5/8” spacer between k member and body. I will not be able to use a hood mat.

84 XR-7 Project

Reply #116 – October 10, 2017, 08:24:17 AM

You guys did a great job on your projects. I wonder if I can do the same on my car. Maybe I would be needing reliant finishing systems help.

84 XR-7 Project

Reply #117 – February 08, 2018, 02:27:02 PM

Id like to find out more about this particular tunnel bracket.

I am adding a "full length" center console to an 87coug & converting to aod floor shift.

I dont have this bracket on my tunnel but there are 4 detents in the tunnel that tell me the jig is there for all cars to "option in" this item.

Does your full length console have a bracket that attaches to this mounting pad?

my full length console does not,, marked as an "E6" pn.

I am using erics info to cut a hole in the floor and am still going at it kinda slow.

let me know please,,

this pad i point to coupled with the slotted hole atop the tunnel brace certer under the seats allows my center console to "tell" me where it wants to be.
I am skeptical that i really need to cut my hole in the floor that large for an aod shifter,,, the big plus sign tunnel opening seems to be universal to either working with a aod or std drive.

no i dont have the elevation change pan that is added atop your tunnel, still gotta figure that part out.

im at 304 772 3411 if you have any exact measurements you want to share.
the instructions on coolcats do not specify exactly what precise points were used as reference start points to een begin cutting this hole i need to do.

more than nice work!!! you might find our simplified subframe connector fab work a tad easier which in or rendidtion likely serves the same pruposes. We avoided cutting out the floor, though i see you did what the doctor did and it looks really good!

84 XR-7 Project

Reply #118 – February 08, 2018, 02:38:42 PM

My 86 had that there, and it was a column shift non console car. Same with my 87 bird.

84 XR-7 Project

Reply #119 – February 08, 2018, 03:33:28 PM

i just found a drawing of it in the body section of the shop manuals.
part a of one question is answered, the console to tunnel bracket holes are infact "centered" and not favoring forward or Aft directions.
I will have to fabricate this bracket. its apparently removeable by 4 phiillups screws.