Door Lock Solenoid

Topic: Door Lock Solenoid (Read 1246 times) previous topic - next topic

Door Lock Solenoid

February 02, 2013, 07:37:27 PM

Hello---
What is the general thought on replacing a door lock solenoid. I have the instructions, but wonder if this is one of those "I wish I didnt attempt this job!"

??
JR

Door Lock Solenoid

Reply #1 – February 02, 2013, 08:44:19 PM

Quote from: JKATHRE;408655

Hello---
What is the general thought on replacing a door lock solenoid. I have the instructions, but wonder if this is one of those "I wish I didnt attempt this job!"

Simple. First pull the door panel. On standard panels, two screws behind covers on strap, 2 under handle, then one directly behind handle toward the door skin, possibly one near the speaker, then the panel pops off with plastic push-in clips . There are linkages you'll find near the door latch. I prefer pulling the one bolt near the bottom of the door in the same area to remove the window track on that side, to make room. Then you can just look back there and see the solenoid. I don't remember off hand how it is attached, but I do remember that it is on a bracket that comes out with the solenoid. The bracket may mount to something in the door jamb area? Playing with the linkages may take a few minutes, but it's pretty much an in and out, then bolt everything back up.

I could probably easily change one in 15 minutes using manual tools. Power tools will make the screws and bolt quicker. This is mostly going in blind...

I've only removed a TC panel once, and it was already torn up a bit from the scavengers who got to the car before me. I can't help on those panels.

Door Lock Solenoid

Reply #2 – February 02, 2013, 08:45:54 PM

I find the hardest part is removing the door panel without breaking any plastic clips. The metal on metal repair is easy.

Door Lock Solenoid

Reply #3 – February 02, 2013, 10:20:19 PM

Quote from: QUICKSHIFT;408661

I find the hardest part is removing the door panel without breaking any plastic clips. The metal on metal repair is easy.

Breaking? They pull right out. Sure they only work maybe half a dozen times, getting weaker each time, before they're completely useless, but they're also dirt cheap to replace.

I don't know if your 84 is different. I believe he has an 88 3.8 Tbird.

Door Lock Solenoid

Reply #4 – February 02, 2013, 10:54:30 PM

Quote from: Seek;408671

I don't know if your 84 is different. I believe he has an 88 3.8 Tbird.

Point taken....I don't know about the 88s

Door Lock Solenoid

Reply #5 – February 02, 2013, 11:49:47 PM

Very encouraging thank you guys... I am no stranger to opening door panels. The nightmare is that the lock mechanisms are always at the rearward narrowed part of the door and behind the window track---making them somewhat inaccessible and difficult to see. When it comes to that part of mechanics, I am likely in the idiot class of repair attempts. Attached is a spare solenoid which came from the old door we had replaced. I removed the lock solenoid and kept it, but I also removed all the other hardware first. This time its different of course.

Door Lock Solenoid

Reply #6 – February 03, 2013, 12:22:30 AM

Quote from: JKATHRE;408691

Very encouraging thank you guys... I am no stranger to opening door panels. The nightmare is that the lock mechanisms are always at the rearward narrowed part of the door and behind the window track---making them somewhat inaccessible and difficult to see. When it comes to that part of mechanics, I am likely in the idiot class of repair attempts. Attached is a spare solenoid which came from the old door we had replaced. I removed the lock solenoid and kept it, but I also removed all the other hardware first. This time its different of course.

Yeah, just pull the window track out and you'll have enough room. I remembered - something is held in with a rivet. IIRC, something will need to be riveted back to the door (that may be how it mounts?). Use strong ones - the first time I put one back in, the rivet I used snapped in a few months.

Door Lock Solenoid

Reply #7 – February 03, 2013, 06:11:31 AM

The solenoid bracket is mounted the the door with a single large rivet. If you can replace the solenoid by slipping the pegs out of their rubber isolators in the bracket, then bracket removal becomes unnecessary.

Door Lock Solenoid

Reply #8 – February 03, 2013, 03:36:01 PM

Okay, Okay---I did take the door apart this am and popped the rivet which holds the plastic motor bracket in place. I have to confess that the Ford I am working on is not a T-Bird but the procedure is the same and believe it or not, the electric motors are identical. I am also informed that the shaft on the motor can be removed and substituted with the correct length/fitting one. The motor I have is a spare '88 T-Bird motor as previously mentioned. The window channel can be slipped out of the way by removing a large nut on the rear jambside of the door--you have to mark its location for reset. Now without an electric motor I put the car outside to see if the keyswitch or the latch mechanism will freeze up. I sorta thought they were not the culprits in this case. Will learn before the BIG game starts later. I put the old motor in the freezer to test whether it is water logged and locks up. Will find out. Overall the job was easy and maybe this stuff just comes with age? Years ago I would have been paranoid about ripping into the deep recesses of a car door. Now I am only half paranoid.

Door Lock Solenoid

Reply #9 – February 03, 2013, 06:26:58 PM

Yep--followup----the frozen motor was locked up. I left the car outside 3 hours ago (20F). The door of the car opened easily a few minutes ago. So the problem is in the lock solenoid....