5.0 Engine build questions November 07, 2013, 12:06:21 AM My 5.0 has a lot of miles on it and is getting tired. :( I don't race it, but like to have something with more torque than stock.I have an almost stock 5.0 in my 1987 Thunderbird Sport. It has a Professional Products intake and throttle body, I think it's 75mm. Other than that and a better coil, distributer module, and alternator, it's stock. Based on my reading on here and other places, I'm thinking of the following build, and would like to get some opinions. I want to keep the numbers matching, so am having the stock block refreshed. New pistons, bearings, gaskets.I want to use AFR 185 heads, so the need for the new pistons to clear the 2.02 intake valves.I'm thinking of using a Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 258/266. Duration 258/266, lift .533/.544, lobe separation 112.The firing order is currently the non-HO with Speed Density computer, so will have to change to MAF computer with HO firing order.I'm thinking a MSD 6AL would be good insurance to make sure I don't run the engine over 6000 rpm so it will last longer.I'm planning on re-using the existing intake, distributor, and as much as I can.Questions:1 Anybody running this setup?2 What size injectors would you suggest for this setup?3 Would the hassle of trying to get long tube headers to fit be worth the difference in power from shorty headers?4 What important question(s) am I not asking? Quote Selected
5.0 Engine build questions Reply #1 – November 07, 2013, 01:00:14 AM why not run some twisted wedge and not have to throw new pistons at it, and still clear the 2.02 valve? Quote Selected
5.0 Engine build questions Reply #2 – November 07, 2013, 04:03:30 AM I have a very low mileage Crane 2020 cam if you are interested let me know Quote Selected
5.0 Engine build questions Reply #3 – November 07, 2013, 04:02:28 PM Quote from: Haystack;424150why not run some twisted wedge and not have to throw new pistons at it, and still clear the 2.02 valve?He will if he's boring the block. What you have now with a 75mm TB is way to big. Till you know what the machine work will be it's all a guess. Quote Selected
5.0 Engine build questions Reply #4 – November 07, 2013, 10:28:25 PM Quote from: Haystack;424150why not run some twisted wedge and not have to throw new pistons at it, and still clear the 2.02 valve?I'm just kinda stuck on using the AFR 185s from doing a lot of reading on dyno comparisons. Quote Selected
5.0 Engine build questions Reply #5 – November 07, 2013, 10:43:57 PM Quote from: Kitz Kat;424164He will if he's boring the block. What you have now with a 75mm TB is way to big. Till you know what the machine work will be it's all a guess.Ya, it was a gift a few years ago. It makes my idle rough, but it smooths out after 1200 rpm. Quote Selected
5.0 Engine build questions Reply #6 – November 07, 2013, 10:49:30 PM Quote from: beast50;424152I have a very low mileage Crane 2020 cam if you are interested let me knowsent pm Quote Selected
5.0 Engine build questions Reply #7 – November 09, 2013, 03:20:11 PM Quote from: Kitz Kat;424164He will if he's boring the block. What you have now with a 75mm TB is way to big. Till you know what the machine work will be it's all a guess.Nah 75mm is fine. If you're going to be running AFR185 or Twisted Wedge heads a 75mm TB is great. Hell you could run a 75mm TB on a stock 5.0 HO and it will run fine. With AFR185 heads and a Professional Products intake (basically a copy of the Edelbrock Performer RPM I) you'll want a cam to take advantage of those high RPM breathing parts.FYI I'm running an Edelbrock 70mm TB with my combo. I would have gone with a 75mm TB but I got the 70mm Edelbrock and spacer for less than $80. Swapping from a 65mm to 70mm TB got me .5 mph so about ~5hp improvement. It's not too big. Heck the thing feels exactly the same on the street as it did with the 65mm TB. Quote Selected
5.0 Engine build questions Reply #8 – November 10, 2013, 12:34:41 AM Thank you Thunderjet 302. I noticed you are running a C&L MAF w/24lb injectors. And you have a AOD trans like I do.Did your MAF come calibrated for 24lb injectors? Did you have to do anything to your computer to make it run good with the 24lb injectors?I'm guessing you're using a A9L or A9P computer?I ask a lot of questions because I want to minimize the number of surprizes I get when I pull the trigger on this project. :) Quote Selected
5.0 Engine build questions Reply #9 – November 10, 2013, 09:21:01 PM Yep the C&L MAF is calibrated for the 24lb injectors. ProM and C&L MAFs are calibrated to injector sizes, factory Ford MAFs are not. I've done no tuning except for the MAF calibrated for the injectors. I'm running an A9P in my Thunderbird. Quote Selected
5.0 Engine build questions Reply #10 – November 11, 2013, 09:20:19 AM Quote from: thunderjet302;424290Yep the C&L MAF is calibrated for the 24lb injectors. ProM and C&L MAFs are calibrated to injector sizes, factory Ford MAFs are not. I've done no tuning except for the MAF calibrated for the injectors. I'm running an A9P in my Thunderbird.Thank you. Now I just need to find a good source to get a A9P, now that I know it will work well with my AOD. Quote Selected
5.0 Engine build questions Reply #11 – November 11, 2013, 09:17:18 PM Quote from: 1987tbird5.0;424187sent pmreplied Quote Selected
5.0 Engine build questions Reply #12 – November 13, 2013, 11:35:23 PM Quote from: 1987tbird5.0;424147My 5.0 has a lot of miles on it and is getting tired. :( I don't race it, but like to have something with more torque than stock.I have an almost stock 5.0 in my 1987 Thunderbird Sport. It has a Professional Products intake and throttle body, I think it's 75mm. Other than that and a better coil, distributer module, and alternator, it's stock. Based on my reading on here and other places, I'm thinking of the following build, and would like to get some opinions. I want to keep the numbers matching, so am having the stock block refreshed. New pistons, bearings, gaskets.I want to use AFR 185 heads, so the need for the new pistons to clear the 2.02 intake valves.I'm thinking of using a Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 258/266. Duration 258/266, lift .533/.544, lobe separation 112.The firing order is currently the non-HO with Speed Density computer, so will have to change to MAF computer with HO firing order.I'm thinking a MSD 6AL would be good insurance to make sure I don't run the engine over 6000 rpm so it will last longer.I'm planning on re-using the existing intake, distributor, and as much as I can.Questions:1 Anybody running this setup?2 What size injectors would you suggest for this setup?3 Would the hassle of trying to get long tube headers to fit be worth the difference in power from shorty headers?4 What important question(s) am I not asking?ok a few things;1: with the cam you want to run, i suggest stroking the engine out to a 331ci motor. the extra stroke and the cam you selected will give you a fairly monster torque curve. the nice thing about getting a stroker kit is that you can order up the pistons from the kit manufacturer any way you want. tell them you want flat top pistons with valve reliefs for the valves and the cam in question2: the AFR185 heads are just fine for the combination3: when you select the cam, make sure you get the firing order you want, it has to match the computer for best results4: instead of locating a factory computer, i suggest going with a megasquirt computer. that way you can tune it to suit your engine, and you can have an ignition controller built in if you wish. check out this site for more information http://www.diyautotune.com/5: since you are just building a street motor, i wouldnt bother with getting long tube headers, or even equal length shorties. i would pick up a nice set of 1 5/8 tube shorty headers as inexpensively as possible. 6: i believe a 24lb injector will fit the bill nicely in this motor Quote Selected
5.0 Engine build questions Reply #13 – November 15, 2013, 02:14:12 AM Quote from: rbohm;424419ok a few things;1: with the cam you want to run, i suggest stroking the engine out to a 331ci motor. the extra stroke and the cam you selected will give you a fairly monster torque curve. the nice thing about getting a stroker kit is that you can order up the pistons from the kit manufacturer any way you want. tell them you want flat top pistons with valve reliefs for the valves and the cam in question2: the AFR185 heads are just fine for the combination3: when you select the cam, make sure you get the firing order you want, it has to match the computer for best results4: instead of locating a factory computer, i suggest going with a megasquirt computer. that way you can tune it to suit your engine, and you can have an ignition controller built in if you wish. check out this site for more information http://www.diyautotune.com/5: since you are just building a street motor, i wouldnt bother with getting long tube headers, or even equal length shorties. i would pick up a nice set of 1 5/8 tube shorty headers as inexpensively as possible. 6: i believe a 24lb injector will fit the bill nicely in this motorThank you for the input. I'm not sure the 331 would be in the budget, but more torque would be nice.I'm definitely planning on changing the firing order to the HO order. I've heard it is easier on the bearings, and that's what the maf mustang computers run.I've heard that someone that knows what they are doing would benefit from a MegaSquirt setup, but I'm much more plug-n-play. lolYa, looking at the room around the engine, I went ahead and got some unequal length shorty headers to save the headache of trying to clear the tight spots on the driver side. Quote Selected
5.0 Engine build questions Reply #14 – November 15, 2013, 10:44:50 AM if your gonna stroke it, go 347. it will make the same power at a lower rpm, extending engine life. your firing order is set by the cam Quote Selected
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