136
User Rides / Re: Starting fresh
What is that a 6" cowl?
Coming along nice from the looks of it.
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Messages - Mikey97D
What is that a 6" cowl?
Coming along nice from the looks of it.
137
Engine Tech / Re: Vacuum Hose Adapter
Chuck, that is perfect and thank you for the tip on the superglue. That should definitely stop it from slipping out under pressure.
138
Engine Tech / Vacuum Hose Adapter
There is a rubber adapter that connects the boost gauge hose to the vacuum that is very dry rotted on my car. I need to replace it and unable to visit the autopart stores as of right now.
Anyone replace this before? I have searched around online, but I think my vocabulary for the search is incorrect.
I have temporarily safety wired it in place. I am going to need it for the hose that runs to the HVAC and EGR controller too.
Or is there a better way to go about this than replacing that adapter?
Thanks!
139
Drivetrain Tech / Re: 88 Turbocoupe no crank
Any possibility you could try jump starting it from another car running? I've had my jumper box not put enough juice out before and before trying to get that starter out it might be worth a try. That starter is not in a fun reachable place.
140
User Rides / Re: Work In Progress. '88 TC
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Well, if the tube from the block vent is just going to the catch can, you've basically taken out the beneficial component of the PCV system. Yeah, you're not pushing boost pressure into the crankcase now (getting past the factory check-valve), but you're also not pulling any vacuum on it, either.
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When you're coming to a stop, the puff of smoke is what the engine would naturally draw back into the combustion chamber when you let off of the gas, and the system starts pulling vacuum. Heat, oil aeration, etc cause a rise in pressure in the crankcase. That would cause your puff of smoke.
That's probably also what's causing oil to seep past the seal on your oil cap. How is the o-ring/seal on that cap?
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What did you do with the fitting off of the valve cover?
141
User Rides / Re: Work In Progress. '88 TC
I plugged the vacuum line off the intake that went to the one way valve for the crankcase and put the catch can in its place. I also tighten down my coupling into and out of the intercooler because the clamps were not tight enough and I was losing boost. I got the boost back and adjusted the boost controller several times to get where I want it (17 psi). I noticed I was still getting oil on the valve cover around the cap. The oil cap has a self limiting tighten so I took a Channel lock to force it to tighten slightly more. No more oil coming out of the cap.
At a couple stop signs I did get a big puff of smoke from the catch can. Not consistent at every stop but enough to make me say "Whoa where did that come from?"
The car is running very well otherwise. Handling is improved and pleasant to drive. I need to check the timing again maybe over the weekend.
142
User Rides / Re: Work In Progress. '88 TC
Not good.
143
User Rides / Re: Work In Progress. '88 TC
The check valve "rattled" very easily when I shook it while the head was off. I forgot to check the valve cover breather but I remember cleaning it out last year. There was quite a bit of oil when I took everything apart where it feeds in before the turbo.
Well, rattling is fine, but did you try and blow through it to make sure it shut? You could be pressurizing the crankcase. Even new, the check valves can leak.
144
User Rides / Re: Work In Progress. '88 TC
145
User Rides / Re: Work In Progress. '88 TC
I dropped the car off with a mechanic yesterday and he does not believe the dip stick tube is the correct one for my car. It is very loose where the tube goes into the block so for a temporary measure an oring and some sealant until i can find another. Before bringing it in I tried a smaller oring and that did nothing, Then tried sealant that semi-worked. I needed someone to look at it on a lift other than me. He also found it is starting to seep from the front of the oil pan.
The rear control arms have been replaced with CHE adjustable lower and the fixed length upper. For now I am using the Moog CC821 rear coil springs which are shorter than the OEM springs. Although the springs are shorter the it did raise the rear of the car 1/4". I will re-measure in a couple weeks after the suspension settles.
It is raining here today, but I could still tell the car is tracking straight over road irregularity compared to before.
The car should be a good driver now for the year. Looking forward to just enjoying the car for a bit.
146
User Rides / Re: Work In Progress. '88 TC
Borrowed a smoke machine from a friend. That thing is awesome and I found the vacuum leaks! The car is running very well.
Here's a video from my Google photo bucket.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/cXfrMHsT2LXkuGKfA
I have some oil leaks I need to chase now. Once the rain passes I will put some dye in the oil to see where it is coming from.
147
Engine Tech / Re: spark loss while driving
This sounds to me like a capacitor bleeding off almost that isn't used 100% of the time. Or the diode like you were saying feeding a cap. Have you popped open on the computer to check?
Just stuff from the TV shop I use to work at decades ago.
148
User Rides / Re: Work In Progress. '88 TC
On the timing belt, you need to make sure the only slack is on the "back side" of the belt where the tensioner is. If you have ANY slack on the right side of it, from the cam pulley down over the AUX and to the crank, it will shift.
Reading back, did you have this issue when the head was reinstalled?
I had everything lined up when I put the head on and then I needed to adjust the timing, but the distributor didn't have enough room to rotate so I pulled the belt off and rotate the auxiliary so I would have room to adjust. The was my first start since the head went back on.
Having too much slack on the tensioner side makes sense with the direction it was off each time. Thank you!
149
User Rides / Re: Work In Progress. '88 TC
I have had the timing belt on and off this car more than a few times. After I line everything up, I always turn the crank over twice to make sure everything is aligned (belt slack or whatever).
It was one tooth off 3 times in a row in the same direction and I even advanced it 2 teeth on the last try........it was still off in the same spot. I just walked away at that point to go make dinner.
I returned a few hours later with the decision that this isn't an interference motor. Tightened the belt bolts up and lined the distributor back to #1 and it start up and then I set the timing by ear for a temporary measure. Checked the coolant and oil.
Took the car out of the garage and bedded the brakes.
Car is still over boosting even with the boost valve turned all the way out.
Next up:
1. Getting the timing belt figured out.
2. Set the timing
3. Put a vacuum gauge on the line feeding the boost valve to see if it is ever seeing a positive pressure. Of course I will check the vacuum too. I have a boost gauge that I could tape to the hood windshield to see what is going on that might work better. I tested the actuator on the bench before putting the turbo in the car. I will double check again.
150
User Rides / Re: Work In Progress. '88 TC
Parts List:
MM Front Brake Hose Kit, 1994-04 (MMBK4F)
Hawk Performance Pads (Street) HB263B.650
SVE Stainless Steel Insert SVE-H5016-CS from LMR
MM Rear Caliper Brake Hose Kit: 1994-1995 (MMBK12R)
Hawk Performance Pads HP580F.627
Rear Brake Hose H38611 Dorman <This will be replaced with a braided hose in the future>
Unfortunately, MM was having a supplier problem for their inserts. The SVE inserts did not all press into the caliper and some were more of a running fit. I am tempted to use Loctite 680 on the OD of the inserts but not sure it will hold up to the temperatures to hold for a cylindrical bond.
I used Loctite 242 for the thread on the pins. Unfortunately I was left to only cleaning them and reuse (wrong part delivered from local parts store). I will replace these once the world returns to "normal".
Bedded the brakes last night and very happy with the feel and responsiveness so far.