Since I finished my T-Bird Drag Car, I thought it was important to have the correct tow vehicle to get me to the track. I decided to set some limits because it's as easy as buying a new truck and going into debt by a whole lot. #1- it needs to be from the same era as my car (look period correct). That limited me to OBS F series or E series van as well as a nice Crown Vic or Grand Marquis. A wagon would be awesome! #2- cannot have a 460, let's face it I could not afford to race after gassing this pig up for a day at the track. 10mpg is no go in my book since this would be a second vehicle and I would be using it on a daily basis going to and from work. It must be economical in today's sense. #3- it had to be Windsor powered! I have a whole garage of squirreled away parts from over the years and I could make an awesome EFI Windsor something.....
My buddy offered me this beautiful 1988 F250 XLT lariat that his dad willed him when he died....it has a 460 and C6. That was against rule 2.... So we started talking. There were hundreds and thousands of these trucks built with a 460. Many were for sale cheap! That was because of the fuel consumption. Can a truck like this be revised to today's standards of economical by using Junk Yard stuff for the fraction of the cost of something new. The cost of replacing everything cannot even be close to the cost of buying a new truck.
This arrived on the Bangshift blog today. Never heard of this before. If anyone has details on one of these cars, please let me know. Would be awesome to have one if its a reasonable price.
I have a set of unused coil over springs used for mock up of my race car. 12" long 250 lbs per inch. They should fit any coil over setup and would be best served for some corner carvers or a drag racer with a cast iron BBF power plant.
So I decided to enter a Match Race Madness Shootout at Barona Dragway (near San Diego) for my last race of the year. It's a best 2 out of 3, heads up Match race. I am gonna do some test and tuning tomorrow and I thought I could use a little input on any thoughts for a few more tenths or a bit more power. I would like to end 2015 on a high note! Let me have it, I'm gonna pull out all the stops!
I just replaced my torque converter (Precision Industries Stallion) 3700 with a Pro Torque equivalent but went from a 9.5" converter to a 8". I was having a tough time dealing with the 23% converter slippage in the 1/4 mile. It was killing my et and MPH. I am trying to get my bird into NHRA Super Gas territory of a 9.90. The best I have ran so far is a 10.08. Now I am running 6.20 1/8 mile and that should equate to a 9.80 1/4 mile. In high gear the poor PI Stallion was just not efficient enough, the problem is that upon install and optest of the new converter, I noticed quite a bit more slippage and I cannot determine if the converter is just slipping that much, or do I not have something right in the tranny? Nothing has really changed with the exception of the converter so I am a bit puzzled. These were both high end converters and I am doubting that 2 different converter shops can be so far off of their initial settings. Am I out to lunch, or should I be checking line pressure to the cooler to verify converter charge pressure? Can the pressure be adjusted? It's a full race C4 Reverse Manual Valve body, no transbrake.
Finally got this thing back together and headed to Gainsville, Fl for some in depth tech and a few license passes. I got to make a 90% 1/8 mile pass and ran a 6.34 @ 106. I will try and get a video posted up of my first couple of license passes, keep in mind I cannot nail the throttle the entire track until my 5th and 6th passes for license requirements. I blew one of the cover gaskets out of my C4, that I believe is the 1-2 power piston, passenger side ....my shifter cable bracket is bolted to it. Maybe Tom can help me out here, no idea what it's called. Should have it replaced and back together by next weekend, then it's full on!
I have not found any info on this cam profile. I used to have the profile in a 1999 FMS catalogue but I cannot find it. I'm assuming it must have been covered a billion times on the forum, but cannot find any posts.
Ok, I have this old guy that lives about 2 miles away that has a 20th anniversary Cougar with the gold wheels. He has it up for sale again....last time I thought I would stop and look at it since it looks ok from the road and he'll, these things are getting hard to find these days. We shot the poo for a hour as I looked the car car over. Rusted drivers side sail panel which provided a trunk full of possible rust holes, but fairly clean none the less. Come to find out it is a 1 owner, has all dospoogeentation and even includes order form from Mercury. This was his wife's first and only new car and she died a few years ago. He hits me with $2700 right off the bat, I come in at 1300 since it has a rusted through sail panel, he gets completely out of shape. I'm low balling him since these are a special edition and it is in stellar condition, blah, blah, blah. I say if it's in such stellar condition, then climb in the trunk and I will only spray that one spot with his hose and he can see if it leaks. He again gets bent and asks me to leave. Car has been sitting for sale 3-4 times in the past 4 years and I was wondering if it would be worth looking at again. Anyone want a 20th Coog for this price with a rusted through sail panel and Swiss cheese trunk. It is rare, agreed....but how many people are lined up to buy it? When did rare mean worth a lot? Is a 1973 Gremlin X worth a lot, no.
Turbo Coupe Hood, two dents 1 from MAF exploding, passengers side up ward dent and paint chipped off and second above strut drivers side. You can see both on bottom picture. Definitely not in too bad shape. Its from a california car.
As the post says, I am having an awesome garage sale to clear out all my stuff so that means you...The Cougar or T-Bird enthusiast makes out. I have been ding cool fox stuff for years. Just let me know what you want or need. I do have some t-bird and cougar stuff but mostly mustang stuff.
