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Messages - Aerocoupe

2761
General Fox T-Bird/Cougar Discussion / Any of you folks TCCOA forum members?
I had a 95 Bird with a shiznit load of bolt-ons and posted there quite a bit back in 98-2000.  Mostly the posts there are very non-tech oriented and lots of he said she said .  That is what drove me from that site before I sold the 4000 lb. beast.  In all honesty I get more out of corner-carvers.com than anywhere else but you better bring your A game there.  Those guys will ban you if you post anything but tech or ask the same old question without doing a search.

Darren
2762
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars FOR SALE / Jobless! Buy my stuff!
I know for a fact the 85 units worked on my 83 so hopefully that will help as these will be for my 83.  The ones that came off the 85 were the flat black and that is what I am looking for as the standard units with the chrome lip take a ton of work to prep to paint solid black.

Darren
2763
Archive & Library (Read Only) / Reference Thread : Choosing the best K-Member upgrade
The Griggs unit pushed the wheel foward 3/4" and the lower control arm pushes it foward another 3/4" unless you opt to buy the severe duty adjustible control arm.  This will allow you to move the wheel foward anywhere from 3/4" to 1-1/2" total.  Griggs does not make a K-Member that does not relocate the front mounting points.

Maximum motorsports has a K-Member as well and it does the same thing.  They offer two lower control arms, one with zero offset and one with 3/4" offset.  Again, either 3/4" or 1-1/2" foward movement of the front wheel.

Wanted to post an update on Maximum Motorsports K-members.  They now offer lower control arms with a reverse offset which will allow you to achieve the original wheel location.  So basically the K-member still has the 0.75" forward movement of the control arm mounting points but the new control arm completely offsets this to bring the wheel back to the stock location.  This is very nice if you have already purchased the K-member and want to move the wheel back as it is cheaper than buying the K-member and you can most likely sell other the lower control arms.

Darren
2766
Archive & Library (Read Only) / >>Mustang Rear Shock Install w/ Pics
The dealer I bought them from is a friend of mine and I cannot find the invoice.  I called him and he is going to email me one in the morning.  I will post the part number as soon as he gets it to me.  If you guys are interested in contacting him for the information or a quote his website is:

http://www.chicane23.com

You will find his contact info in "products" at the bottom of the Griggs advertisp00get.  John is the American Iron champ 2004 & 2005 and runs full Griggs cars.  The 2006 season was not all that good as he built a brand new 2004 body in white car that had a few bugs as all new cars do.  Should literally dominate next year.  He knows his equipment and stands by what he sells.

Darren
2768
Drivetrain Tech / trans and rear end.
Oh, thats different.  The two that I know of were behind some 302's with some bolt ons and they gave up the ghost pretty quick.  If a T-5 was availible I would run it as the gear ratios are not a gappy but its all about the wallet and whats availible.

Darren
2769
Drivetrain Tech / trans and rear end.
One other note.  If you end up not using the SRod Tranny the bell housing will work on the Tremec's.  So its not a complete loss, just the tranny.

Darren
2770
Drivetrain Tech / trans and rear end.
Just to clarify the 85 and 86 GT Mustangs came with a 5 speed.  Not sure about the 4 cylinders but I am sure the SRod sucks.  Very gappy in the rpm bands between shifts and 3rd to 4th is just terrible.  Any kind of power and it will break.

The Mustang rear end is narrower by the 3/4" as indicated.  The lower control arms are different lengths so use the Cougar/T-Bird units.  If you are only changing the rears for the gears then swap the center sections.  There are several sites that show how to do the center section swap.  While you are at it you can rebuild the trac-lok and pack an extra clutch in it.

Easy way to check the differences between the two rear ends you have is to measure the axle housings  to .  That will tell you if the housing width is the same.  If it is then simply use your old axles and everthing from the backing plate out on the brakes.  If the housings are different in width then I would suggest the center section swap.

Darren