Last post by Tbird232ci -
I was contemplating it. After driving modern cars and doing sim racing, I definitely saw the benefit of spacing the pedals. I'd love to get the brake pedal a little closer to the accelerator and move the clutch out a little. I also never really had any issues with hitting the wrong pedal, or getting hung up on other pedals. I wear a size 12 and skate shoes, so they're a little more plump.
This would have been the opportunity, but I also know that it would have been another project to stall my progress. I'm going to leave myself future projects because we all know these things are never actually done.
Last post by Mikey97D -
I would be so tempted to spread the pedals out a bit. I am alway hitting two pedals at a time and need to make sure I have the right shoes on to drive the car. Size 13
I'm waiting on a few more odds and ends, and it'll be time to pull the dash back, swap the pedal assembly and heater core. As much as I love Maximum Motorsports, they are very slow moving.
While waiting on parts, I decided to pull the pedal assembly apart.
I intended on replacing the pedal pivot bushings. The Dorman bushings were too thick and caused everything to bind, no matter how clean and smooth all of the surfaces are.
I reassembled it using the original bushings, but made sure everything was clean and lubricated. The Dorman pedal pads are decent enough. The UPR cable quadrant tolerances are pretty much . It's fairly sloppy even with all of the spacers. There's a good reason they are cheap.
Last post by Mikey97D -
Thanks Chuck! I was thinking the same of just bleeding some off from time to time until it shows clean. The PS fluid looked like new engine oil instead of clear or red if someone put atf in there. With the smell of a burnt up automatic transmission fluid. Yuck.
Last post by Chuck W -
You could do a quick drain/fill on the PS stuff. It wouldn't hurt. Remove what you can from the reservoir by sucking it out or draining it out the bottom (return fitting) and refill with fresh. A couple times of that and running it a bit can clean it up.
If you wanted to refresh it all., it's not too terrible to do, especially if you already have the return hose off.
Remove the drain hose from the reservoir and put it into a catch container (cap the nipple on the reservoir when you remove the hose). Disconnect the coil wire and cycle the engine with the starter a couple of times. Top off the fluid. Repeat until you see clean fluid going into your catch container. The fluid pumps out pretty quickly, so no need to crank it too much. You don't want to run the pump dry and draw in air.
Last post by Mikey97D -
Turbo and exhaust manifold, and exhaust is on the car. Need to finish plumbing the intercooler.
There's no power steering cooler just a metal line in front of the condenser so project creep of adding a cooler. PS Fluid smelt horrible almost burnt smell like an automatic transmission. Guessing that may be biting me next.
Earlier this Summer I have been chasing a misfire only at RPM's under 2k. You can find the story here: Misfire 88 TC
While I was diagnosing the the misfire I put the adjustable FPR that I had rebuilt back on the car. I will adjust the FPR again once the car is running with the wideband for reference.
A good friend of mine recently bought a new garage condo for his business. Front and loft areas are for his business and garage is for his toys. He had the floor epoxied and an used lift that he installed. I have been painting sections of the lift as time allows and now the clear coat on the floor is lifting so the business that epoxied it is coming back.
In the mean time he invited me over with my car to replace the head gasket and we are installing the new turbo and fmic kit off my shelf from the past couple years waiting. A lift, lights, and air conditioning.......I think I have died and gone to heaven.
I used an engine lift to remove and place the head on the car. It worked awesome and my back isn't angry trying to place that 80 lbs of iron.
Gnari FMIC is going in with a bit of grinding here and there is needed for the brackets (extra weld on radiator support). Happy with the kit so far. Thursday some extra intercooler tubes should be here for some rerouting that I would prefer. I will take some pictures when done hopefully this weekend.
Very happy with this truck so far. It has way too many gadgets but I have been averaging 22 mpg mixed driving (60 highway / 40 backroads) consistently. Miss the sound of the coyote motor but this thing is very quick for a pickup truck.
That sucks, especially since your spark plugs dont indicate a blown headgasket couldve been the issue.
It's actually pretty common. These things will blow the gasket between cylinders rather than between the cylinder and cooling jacket. The plus might just show rich, which will make you think it's an ignition problem.
Luckily, the 2.3L is pretty easy to yank the head off of. It's just heavy.
It actually showed lean! I guess the wide band O2 sensor doesn't read raw fuel as rich. It surprised me on the readings.
I used an engine hoist to lift and put the head back on!!!! LOL
