Patient: 1991 Linc MKVII 5.0L HO all original equipment
Does the 91 linc mkvii have an integrated relay control module?
A guy reaching out to me about his says he bought a code reader and his codes are...... 34 , 81 , 82 , 85 , and 87
He says his book that came with the code reader says that code 82 is a faulty IRCM. I told him that his code reader / code text references may be wrong. there are several reasons we can ignore all the codes above except for 82.. so....... reason i say this is he mentioned his fuel pump relay is in the trunk... as far as i know,, on the 2.3L as an example,, the IRCM consists of dual fan relays, fuel pump relay, eec power relay, AC pump ctl ckt. I know nothing about all the extra fancy/complicated wiring arrangments the MKVII consists of. For reference,, i am using a 1987EVTM page 61 as a guide. His code reader is the brand Innova for OBD1 applications
just thought id reach out here since i dont have a 91 evtm for the linc MKVII
This thread serves as my resurection of solving a **VERY*** old problem with my 1990 ford bronco 351 full size. Recently i got a call from someone i met 10 years ago when i randomly stopped by someones house,, and gave them one of my many Foxthuderbirdcougarforum buisness cards. He had a MKVII HO 5.0 1991
so i finally found someone who has the very exact same problem as me on my bronco,, his mkvii is doing the same thing.
symptom........................ while driving my bronco the engine will shut down and come back on in a flash of less than a second. in a stick shift on my bronco,, this is very very violent and you see and feel the nose drop and pop back up,, so fast my human reaction to let off the gas pedal is not even present.. so ,, when it recovers,, im still the same depth into the gas which makes recovery just as voilent. In the other guys situation with the MKVIII,, he has an aod so t he vent is somewhat buffered and masked..
We both see our tac decending towards zero but recovery is so fast it gets back to work perfectly fine.
I have my speculations now on may directions i can go to troubleshoot but... i am here now asking if anyone has this issue and what solved it. in my case i have no code that points to this ,, thinking its so quick the eec doesnt log it in continuous or on demand codes.
helped a guy out who watched my several parts series on youtube relating to bench testing your TFI's & PIP's off the car to verify your spares are actually good.
he was going through distributors a lot,, meaning over a few months bad again. he's a fox stang 85 cfi. we talked on the phone a lot and bounced around ideas then it appeared after he dragged his dad into all of it,, his dad being a dealer wrench (retired i guess) , started to focus on this good ole 22k ohm resistor.
my suggestions were not so helpful because to be honest ,, not many of us here ever talk about that red headed step child and i admitted i just dont have the subject matter experience to speak to where its at,, what it does or anything. I fixed all that and i clearly understand now its purpose. the fella got his 22kohm resistor installed and i suggested a 5watt min and also to paint on some liquid electrical tap all over the soldered areas and then get it in the wire loom.
to to my thougths,,, in my EVTM,, for the 87 version,, the 22k ohm resistor shows up in the wiring diagrams on one of the DG/Y branches. the CFI 3.8L shows this particular branch does not go back to the EEC pin 4 like the 5.0 and 2.3L does. Now im confussed. To my best examination of the EVTM,, i do not see this resistor mentioned anywhere else except for the diagrams pertaining to ignition on the 5.0 & 2.3L only. there is no reference as to its location as well. the fella that i was helping told me he found his just a couple feet up the coil harness headed towards the firewall. His was 100% open. So those of you with knowledge about this resistor,, share your thoughts.. I get what it does now and its malfunction perfectly explains why many of us or you out there keep having to replace distributors,, and yes there are poor quality parts out there today but would'nt you like to eliminate this easy to repair part just for the sake of knowing you "know" its good and perhaps maybe the next dizzy you get might actually work correctly.
here is a great snipit from TMOSS that really explained it in better detail. the short version is once the primary of your coil transfers energy out to the secondary,,, and then once that event is over,, the secondary will discharge some residual energy back onto the primary (which is not what we want),, ford "knew" that one branch of wire would lead up to pin 4 off the EEC. That being said,, they installed what i would technically be able to refer to as a "strike absorber" like in a SPD or TVSS in the world of AC Power. it basically absorbs the massive amount of energy headed towards pin 4 of the EEC and absorbs the hit and disipates the vast majority in the form of heat.. while the 22k ohm resistor will allow some safe level to reach pin 4 and do its job of monitoring spark triggers.
***my issue is,, what the heck is going on with the 3.8L?????? it seems to have no such animal and i just dont understand why. furthermore why would the 2.3L and 5.0L have this in common being such different platforms...?
anyway,, here is some high level TMOS ramblings of the topic of the 22kohm resistor... Enjoy and reply if you have knowlege or thoughts on this,, i find it very interesting.
i have what i believe is totally uncirculated ( Provincial Flower and Coats of Arms ) set lacking one for which i have no need for. if anyone wants them then let me know.
here is a link you can have access to for the lost infowars episodes that was recently found all in mp3 format. i grant open access to all for enjoyment or use. the link below is google drive and takes you to file folders you can download as you see fit.
looking for a reliable resource that clearly states the oem intended ampacity for each color coded fuse link as it pertains to the automitive manuf industry.
example, the dual bn/or leads of the stock 5.0L output on the alternator leads up to a fuse link up to the starter relay stud shared by the battery cable. what ampacity designation is this particular fuse link even though it could vary,, what is the engineering runway behind the choices of the fuse link wires and thier intended ability to handle variable current demands?
symptom- engine was shacking a bit like a plug wire was intermittent or maybe a misfire while under a load. i also thought i had heard a metalic rattle under the hood. i checked the plug wires and all was good and tight. i moved on to see how my fuel presure was and found good readings but................ then i heard a rattle while running similar to the one i heard when i was parking it last time a couple days ago.
the outter ring of my harmonic came off.
I keep equipment so long that it seems like i end up having to deal with problems that take years to surface like this one. Ive never repaired a harmonic so any advice will be helpful. What i need to know is are there factory alignment marks so when i install a new rubber,, i know i am doing it right. Otherwise i suppose i could find TDC and dial it in like that especially knowiing my timning chain is really new.
i am not sure if we have harmonic "balancers" or "Damperrs" or a combo of both. if both thaen that answers why i felt like the engine was running a tad rough.
We have a lot of good technical engineering minds here and i wanted to know your overall impression on the new Speed of Air pistons. Real use data heafty data points lending itself to have earned the tag "New Piston Breakthrough",, just my opinion so far.
try not to focus on cost ,, many people do not know the two most expensive phases of a project are R&D as well as Customer Ownership. everything in between when an item hist the market lowers the costs of either end when said item is no longer the new thing on the market.
Help with what the proper naming convention is of my ESD/Soldering mat
I have had an ESD/Soldering *HARD BOARD" mat in my garage since 95 when i got out of the Navy. This was on my workbench at NAS Oceana for my entire time working micro-miniature component level repair in my avionics shop 69A. close to the days i was a short timer, the shop was getting new ESD boards for all the soldering stations and we asked if we could have them and the shop supv said he didn't care, they were classifed as consumables. I carried mine home and its been a real soldier at all the abuse you can imagine. Time has finally taken its toll but its still functional and useful.... however, I am in the market for another one to place on my newly fabricobbled dedicated electronics repair station. I am looking on line and to my surprise, seems like everything i am finding for soldering workbench mats are all silicone. Sounds inferior to me and not something that will stand up to my kind of standards and expectations of a proper soldering mat.
Here is a quick vid of what i have and i am looking for something like it. My issue is i dont know how to shop for it,, meaning i dont kno what its called believe it or not. I am now starting to believe its BakLite with maybe a cermaic coating??? I dont know but i want to at least see if i can find another. If anyone at all is familiar with soldering stations where there would be a hard board desk top mat and you know what they are called, chime in. This one in my vid was also an ESD mat but its almost indistructable.
thanks in advance for any ideas or networking me with someone who may know. see vid below