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Topics - GrannysBird

1
Electrical Tech / Column Connector Diagram
Hiya guys, I'm currently in the process of rewiring my car and so far my ford service manual has been pretty useful. But many of the wire colors listed in the manual are not matching up to what I have in my own column connectors. I was wondering if anyone had a diagram of the connectors on the column that will save me some of the guess work out in the heat this week.

If not I guess tracing will do.

Thanks,

Anthony
2
Misc Tech / Window Tearing Away From Plastic Clips
Hey have any of you guys had the issue with your windows tearing away from the silicone in those beige plastic clips and then getting stuck sideways? At first I thought it was just old age on the part of the silicone and the clips so I removed the window, cleaned the glass and the clips, and finally reinstalled with new silicone. I waited 24 hours and all seemed well and good after I tested it. Then the weather got a bit colder and the same clip tore loose again. I'm just curious as to whether or not there is something I can do to lube the tracks or else figure out why my window keeps coming undone?

I'd like to put my door panel back on at some point.
4
Misc Tech / Fan Clutch Selection
After staring at my engine bay for a long time and in the spirit of ever simplifying my automobile I'm taking the plunge back to a mechanical fan setup. Now while Hayden recommends the use of their HD fan clutch for cars with ac (which I plan on always retaining) I'm curious as to whether or not any of y'all are running either an SD or HD fan clutch in your foxes? I'm wondering if an SD can keep up with the AC or if I should just commit to a little fan roar with the HD clutch if it means rock hard nipple temperatures in the bird.

The final straw that broke this camel's back was my 2nd fan controller taking a dive while driving in the middle of traffic on a warm July day...

Thoughts and opinions are welcome.
5
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars WANTED / Driver's Side Headlight Assembly for 87-88 Tbird
Heya guys I'm in the market for a drivers headlight hopefully with the black plastic mounting bracket included. The 7 inch diameter headlight that I quickly rigged up with all thread seems to make the car into rolling probable cause and I'd like very much to stop getting pulled over. Send me a pm or reply with what you have.

Thanks very much.
6
Suspension/Steering / TC 5 lug swap: where can I find 10" 5 lug rotors that work with stock calipers?
Title nails it, I'm planning on getting a set of lincoln mark rotors for the front spindles which are I believe from a 93 stang, but yeah on the back I'm not sure where to look. I would rather not buy new calipers too as I'm getting all new rims, new axles, and 2 new tires for the front to help suck the sidewalls in, so yeah any ideas?

I can (but I don't want to) weld up one of the holes on my 4 lug rotors and redrill to 5 lug, but if I can buy a set of rotors that works I'd rather go that route.
7
Drivetrain Tech / Clunk From Rear on Clutch Release/Engagement
So I finally got tired of peg legging it and replaced the worn clutch packs in my TC rear end before I headed out from here in Illinois to Philadelphia Pa. I rightly assumed that the road trip would be much more enjoyable with the traction lock working and as a pleasant bonus the hitherto clunk on depressing the the clutch pedal had disappeared for the first hour of driving on the highway.

Great I thought, I've got two wheels spinning and without the clunk and slop this bird drives like a brand new car. Much to my chagrin however, the clunk quickly reappeared some time between that first hour and Indiana...

Keep in mind the clunk only happens when tension is let on or off of the drive train by way of the throttle (or more noticeably the clutch), and direction ( ie turning or going in a straight line) has no effect on worsening or altering the sound. There appears to be to my and my co pilots ears' no chattering from the clutch packs in the rear.

What bothers me is the fact that the clunk disappeared initially after installing new steels and clutches, but quickly reappeared after only a short time of only highway driving (and straight as straight here in Illinois). Maybe it's coincidental  that the clunk reappeared or a new one appeared after fixing the traction lock, but either way I'm open to suggestions so that before I tear into this thing I can dive in with some idea of what's going on.

The driveshaft is new as well as the ujoints, but that will be my first checkpoint. The posi is still working as I tested it out last night under "working" conditions on the road. There is no whurring sound and the ring gear did not raise any alarm bells upon dis-assembly of the center section, so yeah..
8
Misc Tech / No Heat
Alright guys it's starting to get a bit chilly out and I've noticed that suddenly my heat decided to stop working. Now, similarly I noticed that my a/c was not getting as cold as it was over the summer a few months ago, but I didn't worry about it because well it wasn't hot out anymore. And hey I'd had heat earlier in the summer when I fiddling around with stuff to see what worked (terrible game btw).

So here's where's it at:

It certainly feels like there is water moving into and out of the heater core, but the return line is slightly cooler than send line.

The heater door moves corresponding to the heater lever. This was verified outside of the heater box by me dropping the glove box and fiddling around a bit.

You'll get an initial blast of heat once you turn the fans on, but it seems like that it's just the heat naturally building up in the heater box as it soon gives way to cold air.

Personally I'm leaning towards either the heater core being plugged, the door lever arm having broken off the heater door/gate, or something having crawled into my dash and making a mess of things.

Just curious as to your own personal opinions, thoughts, experiences etc. I'm pretty sure I'm going to be taking the dash apart, but all the same It would be nice to not be heading into the thing completely blind.

Oh and the heater core was replaced in 2005, but hey that's not exactly yesterday.
9
Electrical Tech / Fuel Injection to Carb Swap Wiring Up A/C
Hey Guys,

I'm wrapping up my 6 speed swap, and given the weather this time of year I'd really like to get the A/C wired back in. I'm just curious as to where in the body harness I need to start probing to find the A/C hot lead.

And in case you're concerned about WOT, I've got a magnetic switch wired up near the carb linkage to cut off the compressor clutch at X rpm. I was going to watch the pressure gauges while charging and use the ambient temp and system pressure to set the cut off. Ideally I'd hook up a high pressure switch inline, but hey...

Also if you guys have any other tips or tricks for running the A/C sans computer feel free to chime in.

Thanks
10
Engine Swapping / Air Cleaner Hood Clearance
I guess this would fit under here; I'm currently at a stopping point with my air cleaner. I'm running an Edelbrock Performer RPM with a Quickfuel SS 750 and it looks like my hood is about 1 inch shy of closing at the front of the car. This is with a 14X3 inch offset air cleaner, and I think I may be able to get away with a 2 inch filter, but today all of the shops are closed. I'm just curious as to what you guys may have done that retained the stock hood with your carbed setups.

Thanks
11
Suspension/Steering / Subframe connectors and seatbraces wall thicknesses?
Hey guys I'm getting ready to put some connectors onto the bird and will most likely build some seat/cross braces as well, but I'm a little uncertain abut what wall thickness I should be running on the 1x2 tubing for the SFC's? At what point do I go past overkill? (I'm not planning on cutting up my floor, yet)

Also, are the seat braces mainly to provide a more robust mounting point for the seat tracks or to stiffen up and prevent twisting of the SFC's or both? I would imagine the main benefit of having them would be to stiffen up the chassis.

For reference I'm shooting for something resembling t3skidoo's setup.

http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=19191&page=2&highlight=cross+braces
13
Suspension/Steering / Cobra Brake Booster Identification
My 22 year old booster is toast, so I have decided to upgrade it to a 1993 cobra model. But, before I paint the new booster (yes they no longer come painted:mad:) I would like to be pretty sure that it is the correct part, it just seems kind of tiny.

Here are a few pics so if you can please verify that I do have the right the part I would greatly appreciate it. Hell I may even get to use the brakes if I fix my transmission line leak.

14
Drivetrain Tech / The mystical, magical, and mysterious AOD output shaft
I'm curious about my own AOD output shaft because I've read and been told by others that if I have an 87 or older output shaft I nee d to replace it because: 1 There's not enough lube to the planetary gears, 2 High gear ratios (>3.08) will burn it up, 3 if it isn't replaced I'll most likely burn in hell, 4 It doesn't need to be replaced, those idiots on the internet have no idea what they're talking about and if they do they just want to scare u into buying a new part from them.

So my question(s) are: Will an 87 and under shaft lead to certain doom? And if so why?

If this is true how do I go about identifying which one I have? 7 drive teeth, 8 teeth etc etc.
15
General Fox T-Bird/Cougar Discussion / Finally, almost......
Well I drove my bird for the first time in months last night, sounded really really good. The engine is quick and responsive, the power steering no longer moans and whines like a pig, the squeaks from my poly motor mounts and the drone from my exhaust is gone too. The freezing rain was coming but that was okay, things were great she'd be home in the garage quite soon.

Of course all these things aside I still don't have first gear.

:shakehead :shakehead :shakehead

I hate AOD's