Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums

So I finally got the 428W close to the point where I can fire it up.

I primed the oil pump, then decided to ensure the starter would turn over the engine - just to make sure the battery I've been trickle-charging since last year has what it takes, ensure the mini-starter/wiring is in decent enough shape to spin a 10.7:1 compression motor & make sure the Quicktime SFI bell and starter are compatible. Turned over nicely.

Then I decided I'd prime the fuel system & check for leaks in the 15 new fittings. I turn the key and nothing - the rod seems to have become disengaged as I don't even feel the spring for the starter switch. The only thing I've done is loosen the 4 bolts holding the column up so I could shift the steering shaft away from the header a bit (had to dent header as well.) Seems unlikely that could have hurt anything. Any ideas? Is this a common occurrence or has anybody else run into this issue? The steering wheel locks as normal when I turn to the off position and remove the key. I figured I'd ask before I start taking it apart tomorrow morning...

Might have bumped the shifter out of p or n. This wouldnt let it start. Could have just popped one detent when you dropped the column or messed with stuff there.

The gift that keeps on giving. I had replaced this already I think. I used a c-clamp to close it back up. And yes, I made sure the ball-bearing was properly in place.

Anybody know which side HEGO ground goes to which side of the engine? No worries, I'll have Googled it before you can answer. :)

Oh, and I realize this is in the wrong forum, can move to electrical ...


Want to add that I cycled the key a few times, fuel system maintained 38 psi for 10 min, good sign :)

Slight chance you may need a new ignition switch.

For less than 20 bucks, might not be a bad idea to buy two.

Or spring for the 31 dollar Motorcraft switch.

I don't know what I bought last time, or if I just repaired it, it's a py design - there's nothing wrong with it other than the metal shell with the retaining fingers seems to have a TCE mismatch with the polymer piece. Like I said above, I just squeezed the fingers shut with a c-clamp and it works fine again.

Besides, this cheap  can't find his security bit to remove the ed thing. :hick:

Vise grips or a dremel tool.

Yup, I've used vice grips... Screw is tall enough to get a small pair locked on to head...

427W: Sure I'll spend the money it's a deal!

Torx bit: $3? Too expensive. I can't afford that.

You sound like me :hick:

:shakeass: Indeed. :hick:

I think the last time I replaced a switch, I also wrapped two zip ties around it to make me feel better.

I'm buying a new torx bit cuz I can't find the one I used when I last replaced this switch.

I'm annoyed that I'm just going to keep buying a py design over and over again, the switch I have is in good shape, other than the moronic retention system.

Scott (jcassity) had a post where he ran a bunch of relays between the ignition switch and the load carrying wires. That's something id like to do as well. I replaced the ignition switch on my car 6 months ago. Last week it started acting up again, this time the wires are melted.

I think the wires melted in my '83. Worst design ever, and getting a free one on a recall doesn't guarantee anything.

JB Weld the two halves together :hick:

yes, slave relay the run and accy on separate relays

the ign sw now will only have the job of providing a small milli amp 12v source to a group of 30A relay coils.

the large wires that are on the ign sw are now relocated to the contacts side of the relays.  all the heat happens on a more modern / modular design group of parts.

in my 20th i have six relays,, 4 in use

Run
ACCY
Headlamps
Marker lamps


very detailed thread in electrical tech about this

You have a lot more patience than I do.

You have way more patience that I do.

Oh, and I bought this at HD - $10 - worth it.

Even when I bought the new switch, there was some play in it - I figured no big deal.

It worked it's way loose after a few years:



I closed it back up using a vice clamping at two different angles; but I wonder how long it will stay closed?



I'll likely add a zip tie or two just as insurance. Starting to wonder if I should drill and tap some tiny screws on the side of each metal tab and into the plastic to hold it together?

On edit, in the first photo, notice how the cheesy pot metal actually bent away from the plastic over a fair distance from where the tab is? What a stupid, inadequate design (as a mechanical engineer, it kind of makes me livid to be honest.) Then again, so does Ford not acknowledging the nearly 100% failure rate of stereo systems in the relatively new Ford Focus' and a couple other models.

I'd just screw it together, if possible. That or make a little "L bracket" out of sheet metal and epoxy it between the pot metal and the plastic.

we used lacing chord to hold my son's together.
got a call from him one day when he broke down and coasted into a parking lot at C'ville VA.

He called me all proud of himself describing how he had the ign sw just fall apart when driving.

he used a bundle stich on each end using 12 chord used to lace power cables on a cable rack (telecom stuff). 

still holding strong.  his car also has the relay mods for only run and accy.  when his fell apart, power was lost to the slave relays.

I deleted the torx screws in trade for self tapping hex screws.  I had no desire to keep that design only to be boxed into special tool needs later.