First up is a 1986 turbo coupe with no engine The 5-speed tranny is included but not in the car I did have the car running when the engine was in the car and its a nice solid car, suspension felt like it was in great condition throughout Brakes and all electrical also works great Interior is in awesome condition, only thing missing is the pass side door panel but I do have it Body is in great condition There is minor rust on the bottom edge of the trunk only I do not want to junk this car since its in such nice condition but I need to get it out of here Give me a decent offer and its yours Car is located here in Central California
Up next is a pair of buttstuffog clusters The first one is the one off my daily driver (1987 turbo coupe) and works flawlessly Almost 196xxx miles on the odometer but all gauges work great nonetheless This is a drop in for a turbo coupe since its factory calibrated for a turbo 4 cyl car $50 shipped
The second one is also off a 1987 turbo coupe and works great Almost 167xxx miles on this unit The twist on this one is the tachometer is calibrated for a 8 cyl car Tach was pulled from a 1988 5.0 t-bird which was originally from a 85-86 turbo coupe hence the boost guage I tested this on my turbo coupe and it read exacly half of what my real RPMs were So this unit is a drop in for a 8 cyl car The clear cover has seen better days (easily swappable) but the cluster itself is in great shape $50 shipped
And last but not least are these sets of trunk emblems These will be sold as sets (1 "Turbo Coupe" and 1 "Thunderbird" emblem)
The first set (bottom set) is in pretty good condition I have not and will not attempt to remove the original adhesive on the back of the emblems, not that its hard or anything $30 shipped
The second set (upper set) is in even better condition than the lower set Same deal with the adhesive $35 shipped
I also have a NOS Turbo coupe emblem that I was going to use but I might end up using my original stuff $50 shipped on this one, If it doesn't sell its ok I'll just keep it
I'm swapping out my steering pump and lines and removing the lines off the rack is proving to be a small challenge I've slid the rack forward a bit but it looks like the rack needs to be off completely to remove the lines
Anyways my pump was leaking, as far as I know my rack isn't leaking and works just fine (2.5 turn rack) but I'm contemplating replacing it as well I got a hold of a guy in town that is parting out a 2000 mustang gt because it burned lol Will the rack off this car work? It's also a 2.5 turn rack isn't it? 30 bucks with me taking it off sounds reasonable
I've priced some out at work and here's what I gathered (all reman units) 87 Tbird tc rack (2.5 turn rack) $80 92 mustang rack available in 2.3, 2.5, and 3.0 turn $50-$80
The 2.3 turn rack really peaked my interest but what should I go with or should I just keep my current rack I've heard the sn95 units are better so that's why I'm thinking about the one on the 2000 mustang
Tie rods are not an issue as I'm already running sn95 spindles and inner n outer tie rods
What are you guys using to replace the strut mounts? looks like mine are starting to shift around, I know the ultimate fix would be to get some CC plates from MM and as much as I know they will complement the suspension mods already on my car I can't swing getting them atm. Is there a decent stock replacement out there worth getting or could I replace just the rubber? I seen some poly bushing replacements on American Muscle for the Fox mustangs but I'm not sure if those will work for me
I got my hands on a 140mph Speedo from a guy that had it installed in his 88 v8 bird I remember reading about switching out a resistor or something like that to make it work in the 5.0s so what would I have to do to make it work in my turbo coupe
Btw what are these things worth nowadays? Haven't been able to find one for sale to compare
Since I rebuilt the 2.3 motor in my turbo coupe I noticed I had an oil leak since I have a nice sized puddle in my driveway now and I can clearly see oil at the bottom of my bellhousing, oil pan area.
First thought was the rear main seal or my oil pan gasket since I hear it's hard to have a leak free 2.3t engine hehe I was definitely bothered by this since I replaced every gasket on this engine and I took extreme care of installing the rear main seal and oil pan just to avoid this.
Tonight I thought I would take a look at the upper end of the motor to see if there was a possibility it could be something else and sure enough I seen it was coming from the turbo oil feed, oil pressure switch area and making its way down to the bellhousing. I dialed it down to the oil hole on the head or the stinger oil feed T I have installed. I removed it to see if anything was up or if all it needed was some Teflon tape or thread sealant and found out the oil hole on the head has a hairline crack. I put some Teflon tape on the T and reinstalled it hopeing it would pass up the cracked portion on the threads on but no dice, still leaks. I have another good head I can put on the engine but can the crack be fixed by welding it or something or it trash now?
I'm just glad I don't have to pull the engine or tranny to fix anything on the bottom end
After trying forever to get my hood aligned the other night I gave up and just left it alone How in the world do you get these thing aligned perfect Its in my 87 TC with hood hinges with springs and as of right now the rear edges stick up above the fenders and the gap on the passenger side is too large. Vice versa on the drivers side. I pulled these hinges off another 87 tc since the old ones were a mismatched set and one was really worn out Any tips would be appreciated
I'm getting my engine together and thought I would get some oil, the oil was cheaper with a stp filter so I took the combo. This is on my 2.3 turbo engine and I've ran nothing but wix filters, I pulled the STP filter out of the box and just laughed. I'll admit its a pita to take wix oil filters off because they sit so close to the steering shaft but I guess its worth it. Here's a pic of the stp and a wix filter that has been sitting out for a while.
I was scouring craigslist and found this 86 turbo coupe 3 hours away so jumped on it and picked it up Runs really good, it had to for me to actually pick it up and make the drive back home. Body and paint is in ok condition, only a couple really small dents and a broken fog light. but has some rust on trunk and around the rear window ): . Interior is in very good condition The odometer says 288k but I don't believe that, it's way too nice to have that many miles, and everything is stock, even down to the stereo. Previous owner smogged it less than a month ago and it passed with very good numbers, especially for California smog specs, had a very recent valve job and head resurfaced. For now it's just going to be my daily but Idk what I end up planning to do with it, I was thinkin about dropping the engine into my 87 (right there in background of picture) since the body and paint is much nicer and most of the suspension components are pretty new.
It's runs extremely well and rides smooth but has nowhere near the power the engine in my 87 had for obvious reasons, I already set the base idle, timed it to stock spec but I noticed when you let off the gas the rpms drop really fast, is this normal for the earlier TCs or is there something I can do to fix this?
I'm looking for the coolant hard lines for my 87 TC. If anybody has any with no rust or minimal rust let me know, I could really use them. My number is 5592745zero56 thanks.
I haven't had the chance to tackle this but I'm hoping you guys can hook me up with some tips on removing rust
The main area is the front end section under the battery tray. I'm willing to bet it's common to rust up so I hope you guys can help me get this rust off before my engine goes back in. Is there a certain product you guys use, wire brush on a drill, grind it away?
Also yesterday I scored a set of 94/95 front spindles for 50 bucks, I had to remove them but hey the people were really nice and it's way cheaper than getting them at the pick n pull we have here. Anyways they have a little bit of rust but I want to clean them up and paint them.
I'm talking to the owner of this car and he's selling the roller for 500, wish I could take the whole car but our city county is already bitxxing about my turbo coupe on jack stands. I'm thinking about pulling some parts, what should I go get? He said seats were pretty worn but I'm thinkin center console, lights, maybe the dash if it's not cracked, what else?
Funny thing I seen this car on CL a while back for 500 complete but it was gone by the time I seen the ad.
Ok so I was replacing the Orings on my injectors since one of them was leaking right Got them all on the car and I took off the distributor cap to move the spark plug wires out of the way, I seen that it needed to be replaced since the center contact inside the cap was damaged. I put on a good one I had laying around, got everything buttoned up and started the car It obviously wasn't running right and was misfiring I finally came up with the conclusion that the rotor in the dist must have been shorter than what was needed for the new cap that I put on. I put on a different rotor and it finally started up fine and sounded like all cylinders were firing correctly but now my car has a very loud knock from what I think is the head/valvetrain Could some really have been damaged from the misfiring that happened? I just had to step away so I could calm down, anybody ever had anything like this happen? Really hoping it isn't something serious but I'm kind of doubting that
I've been looking online for a spring rating chart everywhere Does anybody know where one can be found? I'm looking for spec on springs code: HRD, HRF, and SHK
I'm planning to get some rear control arms from che performance, uppers and lowers. So what I'm really interested is in the height adjustable lowers and regular uppers.
Currently for the rear it's pretty stock except for the 3"exhaust which still needs to be fixed since it rubs on the rear axle when loaded or going over big bumps My planned end result will be fr500s 17x10.5 wheels with the 5lug conv. (via sn95 axles, mpv van rotors, and 1/8 spacers), rebuilt Trac loc, chucks shock adapters, some sn95 or fox shocks, lower it with sn95 or cut tc springs, and the che control arms
Should I opt for the adjustable uppers for correct pinion angle or should I be good without them?
Also for the lowers I like that I could be able to adjust the ride height, but I was reading up on a thread on here where a member was switching to the regular LCAs because of ride height issues. I can certainly see how the adjustable version will give you a slightly higher ride height right off the bat because of the actual adjustment mechanism on the arm. Hopefully I won't run into any issues but if anybody sees a flaw in my future setup, I'm open for suggestions.
And one more haha, tires. I'm not gonna lie, I'm pretty clue less when it come to tire sizing except for the diameter. Anyways I need to know what size I should go with. I've talked to razzys wagon here on the forum (who also has an awesome TC on some fr500s) and he's running 315s. So I might go with those. I wanted to note that he also said the tires rub when the cars is loaded down, his proposed fix is mustang length axles which will tuck in the wheels 1/2" on each side. Does this sound like a good idea or should I just get a tire is less wide??? Idk hopefully I can get advise before I get the wrong stuff
