I am in central Illinois and at my wits end. I have some 87-88 Cougar-Bird stuff up to possibly including an 88 Cougar XR-7.
Crane Powermax 2020 roller cam, very low miles $150 shipped 86-88 Speed density underhood wiring harness $80 shipped power steering pump $30 shipped black magic flex a lite electric fan for 5.0 radiator $85 shipped (no relay harness; easy to fabricate) low mileage stock replacement electric fuel pump $25 shipped stock 5.0 HO aluminum valve covers $35 shipped 2 lower 87-93 5.0 intake manifold $40 shipped each
I am sure, more to come. Please call or text Tim @309-706-3970 for pictures
I was wondering, after doing a search of the past threads, if using the 88 5.0 Mustang GT/LX brake booster with the Cougar master cylinder would be beneficial with 11" Mustang front rotors, calipers and pads? I have the 10" drums in the back and do not plan any changes to those right now. I know the 5.0 fox Mustang (87-93) brake booster is smaller in diameter but longer than the Cougar's or the 2.3 Fox Mustang that came with the 10" rotors. Any ideas what would work best?
My thinking was that the 10" front rotors got the larger diameter/shorter booster and the 11" front rotors got the smaller diameter/ longer booster?
starting with the marine clean and a scrub brush. I am finding I still have quite a bit of the paint left and not in too bad of shape.
My goal is to use the metal ready next on entire surface and underside of fenderwell then rinse off with water, let dry then start POR painting.
My question is will the POR adhere ok to the painted surface? I figure it's gotta be better than letting the stock finish try to hold off any future corrosion.
I am going to be removing my control arms to change the bushings, if all goes well. How easy are these to remove? I see they sell the bushings without the sleeves that are poly and stock replacements with the sleeves already installed.
Is this one of those control arms where the easiest replacement is to heat up the rubber and knock them out of the sleeves and replace them with poly OR are they easy enough to press out sleeve and all?
Is there any binding or noise with poly bushings in front control arms?
I have a combination of Prothane and Energy Suspension going throughout the frontend already and tend to like the material of the Prothane, myself.
Hello, I remember seeing awhile back someone showing how their 12v junction box underhood. I am trying to see how others have distributed power from their battery safely to power their 3g alternator, electric fans, headlamp relays, stereo amps, etc. My search has not helped much.
I have started upgrading all my power and ground cables and have an idea of how I am going to do it but I want to make sure I am not missing something.
Can anyone show how they upgraded their power distribution underhood? Thank you! Tim
I am interested in finding some rust free front fenders and other sheet metal for my 88 XR-7. If anybody has anyhing they are wanting to sell, please let me know.
I got one of my front coil springs removed, came out in two pieces. I was looking at replacing the upper and lower insulators.
The only luck I am having in finding the stock rubber replacement pieces is around $30 apiece for the bottom piece to wrap around the bottom coil and around $70 apiece for the top donut pad. So, just for the front would be over $200!!
I have no problem reusing the top donut piece with my new springs but the bottom were rusted onto the broken coil and siezed in the control arm. I had to chisel them out. So this way would be around $60.
The other option would be to get the aftermarket poly kits for 79-04 Mustangs. How does everyone who uses this kit like these? At around $20+/- this should be the way to go but I don't want to regret it later with squeaks and py ride. I will have some poly bushings in the front (stab bar links and bushings) but the rest will be rubber.
I know this has been beaten to death like a pinata full of crack cocaine but I am wondering if people are still using their shocks and struts that are specific to our cars when converting to sn95 springs?
The car is an 88 XR-7
I am looking at getting some used sn95 springs to lower my car a little. I still have good struts in the front and free new Gabriel replacement shocks in the back. The quad shocks were replaced 20k miles ago.
What I was reading from past posts was the stock shocks and struts bottoming out when using ANY Mustang springs. Am I understanding this correct?
I guess I am a little confused and undecided on what to do. I thought about getting Moog replacements specific to my car but I would like it lowered a little and still ride nice without too much alterations. The objective is I am rebuilding the entire front end (besides the K member and steering rack), going with 11" spindles and rotors and want it to be done right the first time.
I was thinking of using the orange/black wire that went to the stock 75amp alternator for power source for my headlight relays. this wire connects to the starter solenoid via fusible links from the always hot side of the solenoid. I would still run my fuses for each relay. Any thoughts??
I am needing help identifying which bulb sockets go to which lamp on the front of my 88 XR-7. I have the harness pretty much figured out but I am stuck on which ones goes to the inside and corner amber parking/turn signal and which one goes to the clear fender mount side marker. I took the bulbs out to handle the harness while doing my 3g swap.
