what about aluminizing the entire reflector, minus the bottom side to prevent the light from straying upwards? I don't know what type of place would do this type of thing though. The yellow pages are pretty useless
I'm trying just a metallic (krylon "chrome") spray and want to see if i can polish the flakes up enough to give a decent reflection. It should be possible byt from what I've read for months, its impossible to get a semi-mirror finish from off the shelf spraycans.
Firefox seems to try to make the page fit to screen while IE just draws it so you have to scroll horizontally (load them side by side and see for yourself). The parts of the forum that are scalable are scaled in Firefox but not IE. Not a problem for me though since I run at 16x12 res.
There's some additions lately to firefox I like and some I wish weren't there though. They've been adding a TON of features since around the time they changed the browser name from firebird to firefox. Linux got me running firebird originally, then when I had to go back to windows, i felt so alone so went and got firebird for windows :D
I don't know what percentage of cars come with actual metal headlight reflectors instead of paint, but I'm curious if places would custom make a headlight housing out of something such as aluminum for a fair price. I have no idea what goes into making certain shapes with metal and how expensive it is. I figure this - something such as aluminum that doesn't rust should be long-lasting, be more reflective when polished than the "chrome paint" like current reflectors, and it'd allow brighter/hotter bulbs without melting the housing. It wouldn't cost too much to make, would it (one piece or having the joined edges blended well)?
My headlights still suck after making the lenses clear again and I used the two reflectors that have the most undamaged paint (had 2 sets). On empty/dark roads, they light up the road just fine, but if there's any streetlights or other cars, I don't see any of my own light. I'm still trying to figure out why a 2001 saturn and a 99 escort (which has horribly yellowed/clouded up lights) both light up the road so much more than my bird. I'm thinking about just pointing the headlights downward more and using the highbeams for now.
In front of a garage, they light up the garage and surroundings extremely well, yet on the open road, they're...well :barf: Yes, they're adjusted properly right now. Being that its getting dark extremely early now (with the time change), I figure its time to get back to improving night safety.
Walking back to my car in huge parkinglots, I can always tell which car is mine just from the taillights' brightness...they DO appear to be slightly tinted. The red isn't as luminescent as the hundreds of other cars i walk by. When I repainted the black on the inside(which later made the plastic crack...no idea why), the outter plastic does appear to block a tiny percentage of light. The slight "tint" appears more greenish/grey than black to my eyes though :wtf:
Then again, it may just be dirt buildup and weather damage to the plastic. After all these years, its hard to remember what a brand new car looks like in person. Everything ages in some way.
I've been thinking about replacing most of the lights in the car with cold cathodes, how well do yours work? Any issues? If the specs are true and a 12" cc only draws 5mA, the power draw would be far from noticeable, should it not? I figure one or 2 for the trunk, a 4" in the center console compartment, a 6" in glovebox, etc. Other interior lighting since the stock stuff is SO dim (then again, I'm sure most of it was due to it being the "in" thing back in the late 80's...the slight glow of the instrument cluster seems to say it was). All white light. Plus, at the average of a 20,000 hour lifetime, they'll last forever.
The CC's over the rear armrests appear to be out in the open, are they? I don't know how rare that interior is, but on mine I'd probably just cut a hole in the hangover and stick the light up in there so it isn't blinding to look at...the thought of staring at a light almost as bright (area-wise) as the metal halide in my projector is a scary thought :p
last month: driving fast on entire tank- 14.7, slow - 14.8, all city driving - 8 miles with like 25 stoplights daily. Obviously it needs to be fixed but the weather got nasty quickly. Runs flawless but there has to be a problem somewhere :(
Last time i drove up to seattle, I was around 30mpg at 70-80mph entire trip minus Tacoma traffic and lowered speed limit.
well I THINK its pins 1-2, 3-4, and 7-8, leaving 5 and 6 untouched. I'm unsure though. It appears to work but the led bar(volume bar) on the left is a lot less sensitive than I remember it being. Now I have to set the volume turned up halfway or more for the led bar to peak where before it was around 1/4-1/3. I just hope things won't die from lack or ground or some other problem
well I soldered onto the small pcb inside the power button and it worked...until I assembled the eq again. Looks like I'll HAVE to solder the back of the large pcb instead as this didn't work well enough. So where's that info on which places to solder? :p
I don't remember where it was that I read which solder points to join to force the EQ to stay on all the time, but I figure someone here must know. I grew tired of it not working and didn't like having something wedged under the power button to keep it on. So which 2 of the 3 points on the pcb need to be soldered to keep the thing on?
