So my radiator is formed these white barriers over the inlets to let the coolant run through the radiator. So my car is overheating really fast. I was wondering if there is an aftermarket radiator that will bolt right up? any suggestions would help a lot. Thank you.
I just wrapped my headers with a titanium header wrap and now when I drive my car jerks every 20-30 seconds and my air/fuel gauge drops into the red because it goes lean. Could the header wrap be cause some sort of prefire because of the extra heat inside the header? I also just put on new MSD spark plug wires which I had a hard time fitting onto the spark plugs.
My spec clutch doesnt have many miles left before its broke in and I put my Stinger PIMP ECU in. I want to put 65lbs injectors in but I am not sure which brand to get. Stinger Doesnt sell 65lbs anymore more, so I dont know what to look for to make sure they fit properly even. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you
So after locking and studying my locking pawl. Nothing looks broken. However, I think the spring might be shot. If I manually swing the arm to lock the Ebrake, it works but the arm wont swing into the position without my help. The arm has no tension on it to make it want to move. So I believe my spring is shot. Or should there be two springs and I am just missing one?
I am having a heck of a time trying to get the back of the rear seat out. I need to get to where my ABS system is behind the seat. I can't figure if out. Ive puller it up, ive pulled outwards. It wont budge.
So my brakes pedal is completely stiff. I wont press down at all. Both of my brakes light are on in the dash. What could be wrong? Boost or master or something else?
So shortly after my locking pawl broken. My red brake light and emergency brake light came on in the dash. after about 15 minutes of driving, all of a sudden it felt like I was trying to stop a car that had really worn 4 wheel drum brakes. So I found a place to get the locking pawl from but now I just want to do a 5 lug swap with cobra 13" brakes. Just to be sure, I need spindles from a 94-98 mustang in the front. cobra rotors, and calipers/ brakcets from 95-2004 94-98 tie rods matching ball joints matching year hubs possibly stainless steal brake lines if needed. Banjo bolts For the rear 1995-2004 cobra axles 1995-2004 cobra rotors and calipers/brakets
So the line that comes off the stock intercooler (black with orange stripes) and at the vacuum treee there is a T-connection that goes to the vacuum tree and the other side goes into the firewall, is that the stock boost gauge line?
So I put on an esslinger cam pulley and now my timing belt wont stay centered on the pulley. When I turn my car on and get out to look at the timing pulley (I didnt have the cover on) and I can see the belt moving like a snake slithering towards the back of the pulley and slide a quarter of the belt of the pulley. I checked all three pulleys to see if they were loose and they feel very tight. I then put a leveler on the pulley and the valve cover and my engine is canted rearwards. I am not sure if it should be like that or maybe a motor mount died and thats why my belt is slithering backwards.?.? Any tips or advise?
So at my college, I noticed a little favoritism towards two certain type of vehicles for the closest avaible parking. As noticed, I do not agree. I think they should have to do the most driving and park further out in order to do the most good for the environment if they really cared about it.
I am looking at getting the MM front coil over kit with their sport struts. Would my car handle weird with coil overs just in the front? They dont make the bracket yet to along rear coil overs to work.
This is the switch that came with the electric cutout. It doesnt make sense. front or back is on and side to side is off BUT the switch doesnt move side to side at all..
