Glad to hear you like it. We had to do something...this seemed like the most efficient solution. Everyone else seems to like the new layout and options as well.
Normal driving showed the problem to be greatly diminished...but it still exists. On a cold start there is a slight hesitation. First 1-2-3 shift of the day shudders, then all subsequent shifts are fine (and it's a new trans with full fluid, so it's not the trans). About 2 miles down the road you can feel the car do a little shimmy and sputter. Once the thermostat opens the problem is again reduced but present nonetheless. It feels like a dead spot in the gas pedal....give it a little more and the car does nothing. Go a little more and the car kicks into passing gear, while popping and shuddering and sputtering through the exhaust. WOT seems to cure the problem completely. The TPS is new. So now that the new emissions parts showed an improvement I'm really leaning towards the EGR. Will replace that this week and report back.
Chris, it's probably a little of both. You can try spraying the lines with WD40 or equivalent. Hit every exposed part of the cable, every junction, and every moving part. There's a junction under the driver's seat that's spring-loaded...that one especially. Soaking for a good 24 hours is recommended. If that doesn't help then yes, it's probably the shoes have rusted to the drums. If you get the rear of the car up in the air and remove the rims, you should just need to smack the drums with a hammer to loosen them up. Then install the rims, drop the car and see if that does the trick. This all may take a few tries to get going. Let us know how that works out.
Walbro and BBK pumps seem to be the ones of choice. Either will be great for your car. (BTW, I am running a BBK 190lph pump in the convertible with excellent results).
I changed the idle bypass valve, TAB and TAD sensors yesterday. Also found a vacuum line off. Idle seems to be more level now, not hunting up and down. Everything seems to be a lot better now, although I think the problem is still there to some degree. I won't know for sure until I drive the car normally (to work and back) this week. Still no codes from the EEC. I may try replacing the EGR and see if that makes a difference, but for now things are better than they were.
That's because moldings are a paint shop's worst nightmare. To do the job right they should be removed...but that severely warps the aluminum strips that keep the molding straight. Then the shop workers have to get the adhesive off the door---another messy, tedious, miserable job. Ditto for getting the adhesive off the moldings. Then they have to scuff up the molding, which with our cars, can be very time-consuming. After prep and paint, they can do reinstallation while hopefully getting the molding on straight and fixing/eliminating the aluminum strips. Keeping track of 10 pieces of molding is something a lot of shops simply don't want to do.
It's also a well-known fact that body shops only use flex additive in the clearcoat when absolutely necessary. I would guess at least half the time (if not more), they don't put the additive in the paint for bumper covers. It's a "cost-saving" thing for them, when in reality it really doesn't save much money at all, and there's always the chance a customer will get cracks and need repairs. I've seen this done many times.
So, to answser your questions, you CAN get them painted. The paint WILL stick if the surface is prepped correctly. They can paint the moldings on the car too, without removal, if that makes things easier. And as long as you insist on them putting the flex additive in the clearcoat, then you shouldn't have any cracking or chipping problems. Just remember that molding=labor, and that's what they'll charge you for.
Yes and no. Fuel system (pump, injectors, FPR, pressure) tested fine. However, my EVP tested bad so I got a new one installed...problem still exists. This weekend I'm changing the idle bypass valve, TAB and TAD sensors. It feels like an emissions problem....maybe something not opening or closing properly. If that's the case then what I'm doing should show an improvement, if not solve the problem. I'll report any progress when I get it.
