31
Engine Tech / I turn the key, but nuttin' happens
I'm annoyed that I'm just going to keep buying a py design over and over again, the switch I have is in good shape, other than the moronic retention system.
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Messages - Cougar5.0
I'm annoyed that I'm just going to keep buying a py design over and over again, the switch I have is in good shape, other than the moronic retention system.
32
Electrical Chatter / Digital Dash Fake Oil Pressure Gauge - Sabotaged by Ford
I also have a spare dash I can take apart and look at in my lab.
Unfortunate, like you, I have limited time to look into this issue.
33
Electrical Chatter / Digital Dash Fake Oil Pressure Gauge - Sabotaged by Ford
Look at tolerances of a typical Wells oil pressure PS4 sender here -> http://www.wellsve.com/showall_ds_oil.php
0-4 PSI - Open Ckt
4-8 PSI - 24-36 Ohms
90 PSI - 8.5-17.5 Ohms
All over the place. Oh, and you can now see the reason why they call it a sender and a switch, because it becomes open circuit below 4 PSI.
Now look at what I got for readings when I put a decade box between the sensor wire and ground. It's almost as if the gauge wants to see something between a real sender like the Autometer 2241 and the OEM switch/sender. Here are some numbers and graphs to confuse you:
Bottom line, using the fat sender, mine reads off-scale high due to the sender reading low by 5 ohms (I used air pressure @ ~58 psi and saw 15 ohms, yet it should read ~20 ohms looking at the plot. EXCEPT that if you look at the range of acceptable values for a typical sender unit (PS4), it's probably barely within tolerance :/
If I add a 10 ohm resistor in series with my sender, it reads "O" cold and falls to "R" when warm.
Of course if you note in my pic above, the gauge has 5 readings,
- 1 bar is open circuit (less than 4 PSI)
- 4 bars is the next level, also known as "R" - this covers all pressures between 4-54 psi (my estimate)
- 5 bars is "O" 55-79 psi is my estimate
- 6 bars is "N" or >80 psi (my guess)
- "8 bars" is an error condition where it sees pressure that's "too high" (<6 ohms) It displays as the 2 highest bars and 2 lowest bars
It's possible I'm off in my estimated range of pressure of each bar, and it follows the nominal gauge output, or maybe the lower tolerance, but it matters not since there's very little to be learned from a gauge that can't read below ~40 psi.
Unlike the speedo 85MPH limit fix, it's unlikely that the shared bar gauge could be made to read properly without reprogramming a PROM in there. If anybody has any electrical diagrams of the speedo, or any idea how to fix this problem, I'd love to see it.
The tolerances are so loose, I wouldn't even dare to recommend a sender and resistance to add in series to get it to use the 3 available bars intelligently. I am considering getting the Autometer 2241 and trying to work with that as it must have a better tolerance than the cheesy OEM "sender/switches"
34
Suspension/Steering / Stupid collapsible steering shaft (universal joint knuckle hitting header)
Quote from: thunderjet302;463238
Would this possibly help with clearance? http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Steering-Shaft-Assembly-Power-Steering-Rack-1979-93-Mustang-P980.aspx
It's a good question. They say on their site that it helps with lower universal clearance, but the upper area the shaft is the same size (square, but about same diagonal as round from what I've read.) So, unless it's more compact at the top, allowing me to extend the column a little to get a better angle around the header pipe, it's not clear if it would help or not.
35
Suspension/Steering / Stupid collapsible steering shaft (universal joint knuckle hitting header)
When I removed the steering rack, I had trouble separating the steering shaft from the steering column. So, I lowered the steering column and yanked on the steering wheel until it pulled apart. Little did I know that I had also pulled the lower part of the steering column's collapsible shaft out some in the process. Anyway, when replacing the steering rack, I had to lower the steering column and pull it back so I could get the steering shaft "tongue" into the steering column - pretty normal stuff if you've done this before.
So, the stupid steering rack was in, after I had to drive 15 miles to a different Autozone to get a different rack where the Chinese hadn't already pressed some bizarro bushings into the bushing tubes that I couldn't knock out with a sledgehammer.
My T-Bucket, which had to be out of the garage so I could work on the Cougar, got drenched in rain because I had to wait until morning to finish the install 
Anyway, I could barely get the car out of the way of the garage entrance because I could barely turn the steering wheel. Couldn't figure out why the steering knuckle was now on the header whereas you can see I ground the shaft for a little clearance where it used to be close to the header tube:
I'm slow or forgetful or something, but it took me a couple of days and Googling to realize I just had to tap the end of the collapsible steering shaft back into the steering column to get me back to (about) where I was before. Still have barely any clearance, but I can try moving the engine and steering column a bit to increase the clearance to a acceptable amount:
36
Engine Tech / I turn the key, but nuttin' happens
Quote from: thunderjet302;463021
427W: Sure I'll spend the money it's a deal!
Torx bit: $3? Too expensive. I can't afford that.
You sound like me :hick:
Indeed. :hick:
37
Engine Tech / I turn the key, but nuttin' happens
Quote from: Tbird232ci;463001
For less than 20 bucks, might not be a bad idea to buy two.
Or spring for the 31 dollar Motorcraft switch.
I don't know what I bought last time, or if I just repaired it, it's a py design - there's nothing wrong with it other than the metal shell with the retaining fingers seems to have a TCE mismatch with the polymer piece. Like I said above, I just squeezed the fingers shut with a c-clamp and it works fine again.
Besides, this cheap can't find his security bit to remove the ed thing. :hick:
38
Engine Tech / I turn the key, but nuttin' happens
The gift that keeps on giving. I had replaced this already I think. I used a c-clamp to close it back up. And yes, I made sure the ball-bearing was properly in place.
Anybody know which side HEGO ground goes to which side of the engine? No worries, I'll have Googled it before you can answer. :)
Oh, and I realize this is in the wrong forum, can move to electrical ...
Want to add that I cycled the key a few times, fuel system maintained 38 psi for 10 min, good sign :)
39
Engine Tech / I turn the key, but nuttin' happens
I primed the oil pump, then decided to ensure the starter would turn over the engine - just to make sure the battery I've been trickle-charging since last year has what it takes, ensure the mini-starter/wiring is in decent enough shape to spin a 10.7:1 compression motor & make sure the Quicktime SFI bell and starter are compatible. Turned over nicely.
Then I decided I'd prime the fuel system & check for leaks in the 15 new fittings. I turn the key and nothing - the rod seems to have become disengaged as I don't even feel the spring for the starter switch. The only thing I've done is loosen the 4 bolts holding the column up so I could shift the steering shaft away from the header a bit (had to dent header as well.) Seems unlikely that could have hurt anything. Any ideas? Is this a common occurrence or has anybody else run into this issue? The steering wheel locks as normal when I turn to the off position and remove the key. I figured I'd ask before I start taking it apart tomorrow morning...
40
Lounge / Meet #5
41
Suspension/Steering / Torque boxes
Quote from: Aerocoupe;462927
Those plates kinda look like the Competition Engineering plates.
http://www.shopcompetitionengineering.com/ceb/catalog/navigationPath//%7B26436%7D::Torque%20Box%20Reinforcement%20Plates,%20Lower.html?entryId=catalog.productgroup.&expand=true&menuId=main.menu
Nice - I had no idea where I got them from.
Looks like they were beaten a bit to fit the application. I don't think the pic above is my car tho, I can't recall if I needed to beat them much to get them in place.
Beat and weld, weld and beat :hick:
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Suspension/Steering / Torque boxes
43
Engine Tech / 351W (427W) w/Canton oil pan ishiznitting steering rack
Quote from: Chuck W;462901
Not a problem. Hope you get it running soon. :)
It's fighting me at every turn. Yesterday I had to remove every Earl's straight AN fitting (4 total) and replace them with Russel brand. After spending 45 minutes trying to get one of those fittings to properly cut into the Teflon tubing, I finally decided that I don't trust the engineering behind these when used with an inner hose (braided stainless exterior) that was too hard/slippery to slice axially with their "cutter" ring (it's just a sharp edge soft aluminum ring, no serration.) Glad Pep Boys sells these fittings and they currently have a 30% discount on many items which made them the same price as online (Summit.) This was one problem of several causing me to fritter my time away, though I could only work so hard with 100 degree "real feel" soupy air. Oh, well. At least it wasn't snowing. :)
44
Engine Tech / 351W (427W) w/Canton oil pan ishiznitting steering rack
45
Electrical Tech / Electronic Climate Control - can I remove temp sensor (answer, yes)
) and I only have a non ECC replacement hose. Well, I decided I don't care if it works like it's supposed to cuz I never use it anyway. I tested the thermal switch and it's Normally Closed. I heated it and it opened up, meaning I can just remove it and the system will work fine, it just won't wait until the water is hot before operating. I apologize if this is common knowledge. :hick: