Replacing Intake, throttle body- questions?

Topic: Replacing Intake, throttle body- questions? (Read 16004 times) previous topic - next topic

Replacing Intake, throttle body- questions?

Reply #45 – August 08, 2018, 09:39:54 PM

Quote from: Aerocoupe;466681

306 making 280ish rwhp and ran out of inject with 24’s. Moved up to 42’s (was planning on the eventual 331) and retuned to 320ish rwhp.

Make the jump to 30 lb injectors and get a customs tune.

So you think 30lb injectors will be good? Why did you go up to 42lb injectors?

Replacing Intake, throttle body- questions?

Reply #46 – August 08, 2018, 10:17:04 PM

Quote from: TheFoeYouKnow;466675

I'm concerned about 24# injectors being enough for that combo. Without knowing the details of the heads and pistons, you could be banging up against 400hp, but 24# injectors won't get you there.

I'm running less head and I've got FRPP 30lb red top injectors. 24lb injectors were getting awful close to 100% duty cycle at WOT. 30lb injectors would be better in the op's case. The 24lb injectors will work, but the tune will have to be safe for them.

Replacing Intake, throttle body- questions?

Reply #47 – August 08, 2018, 10:45:02 PM

Quote from: thunderjet302;466684

I'm running less head and I've got FRPP 30lb red top injectors. 24lb injectors were getting awful close to 100% duty cycle at WOT. 30lb injectors would be better in the op's case. The 24lb injectors will work, but the tune will have to be safe for them.

Sounds good. Any particular brand of injectors? Is it alright to order re-manufactured injectors?

Replacing Intake, throttle body- questions?

Reply #48 – August 08, 2018, 10:53:08 PM

42’s were for the eventual move to the now current 331 and a buddy sold them to me cheap. 30’s will get you what you need.

Replacing Intake, throttle body- questions?

Reply #49 – August 08, 2018, 10:59:27 PM

Quote from: tommym;466685

Sounds good. Any particular brand of injectors? Is it alright to order re-manufactured injectors?

I've got the old Ford/FRPP 30lb EV1 injectors. They are pretty much impossible to find new. You can check places like the Corral or eBay for them. I'm not sure how good the aftermarket brands are. The Ford/FRPP ones are very reliable as they are regular factory production pieces.

Replacing Intake, throttle body- questions?

Reply #50 – August 08, 2018, 11:01:10 PM

Quote from: Aerocoupe;466686

42’s were for the eventual move to the now current 331 and a buddy sold them to me cheap. 30’s will get you what you need.

Thanks for the help. I ordered a set of Bosch 30lb injectors. I'll just sell the 24lb injectors. Most of the changes to the motor came about because I didn't want to 1/2 build a motor for the TC.

Replacing Intake, throttle body- questions?

Reply #51 – August 09, 2018, 12:13:42 AM

Quote from: tommym;466689

Thanks for the help. I ordered a set of Bosch 30lb injectors. I'll just sell the 24lb injectors. Most of the changes to the motor came about because I didn't want to 1/2 build a motor for the TC.

Which Bosch injectors did you end up buying?

Replacing Intake, throttle body- questions?

Reply #52 – August 09, 2018, 01:14:43 AM

Quote from: thunderjet302;466690

Which Bosch injectors did you end up buying?

The red top ones for the GT 5.0 and 4.6 Cobra.

Replacing Intake, throttle body- questions?

Reply #53 – August 09, 2018, 05:57:27 PM

Quote from: tommym;466691

The red top ones for the GT 5.0 and 4.6 Cobra.

You found new ones? Where?

If you want to run it before you tune the car send the MAF back to Pro-M to get it calibrated for the 30lb injectors.

Replacing Intake, throttle body- questions?

Reply #54 – August 17, 2018, 12:17:42 AM

I was going to upload some pictures of my progress building the new motor for the Turbo Coupe but it looks like I can only upload one picture at a time. So that means multiple posts. Is there a way to upload multiple pictures on one post?

Replacing Intake, throttle body- questions?

Reply #55 – August 24, 2018, 10:55:33 AM

you can delete all the vacuum solenoids, but leave the egr sensor connected or you will get a CEL. EGR does not need to move, just needs to have sensor value within normal range. Could probably just plug in a sensor and tape it to the harness?

Replacing Intake, throttle body- questions?

Reply #56 – August 24, 2018, 12:15:26 PM

This will work as well: https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9428A-EP/Mustang-EGR-Eliminator-Plug-86-93

Been running one for several years (It was $19 when I bought it, not $30). It triggers a code 33, which disables the EGR function in the EEC but doesn't trip a check engine light.

On my car I ended up removing all the Thermactor solenoids and vacuum lines in addition to removing the EGR, EGR solenoid, and the lines to the EGR. There is a lot less vacuum lines under the hood. The only vacuum lines are one to the FPR, one for the canister purge, the PCV lines, and then a line to the firewall vacuum tree. Vacuum tree has a line to the brake booster and one to the blend door. Plus when you ditch the Thermactor air pump and lines you have much, much easier access to the spark plugs on the passenger side.

Edit: As a side note if you delete the EGR you must block off the flow of exhaust gasses into the intake, either at the cylinder head or by capping the area on the EGR spacer where the EGR valve sat.

Replacing Intake, throttle body- questions?

Reply #57 – August 25, 2018, 09:03:17 AM

i dono guys, i never ever experienced all that head gasket stuff people keep talking about on the 3.8L.

for two less cylinders you get the same fuel economy as the 5.0L.... i did an efficiency comparison in college about this topic as one of my technical writing assignments.

the means to get trapped power out of the 3.8L is very non intrussive and easy , not saying there is much there but there is a few things to do.

discarding the original CFI in trade for the 5.0L CFIr
swap in your green top injectors into the 5.0L CFI
remove the injector screens
gut the cats
short belt it by removing the smog pump pully and pry off the plastic fan impeller.
last .... eventually swap in the 3.8L supercharged fuel pump and get away from the stock 65LPH version.

thats it.

To me, ive actually described a situation that basically says, why bother with the 3.8L when you have the same fuel economy results on the 5.0L.

if you want more power, then go v8 as the base.

if you dont care about time slips and can get a good deal on a 3.8L, go for it.

I think the 3.8 is really dependable,, and i was always facinated by how the oil pump on them was external and fully replaceable right after you remove the oil filter, because the oil pump is right there.

Replacing Intake, throttle body- questions?

Reply #58 – August 25, 2018, 06:04:30 PM

Ron Francis makes a EGR Eliminator, EB-75, $35, so you don't get a light. I am eliminating the EGR valve, solenoid, smog pump, thermactor system. Retaining the charcoal canister and purge valve. I registered the TBird as a "classic vehicle" so I don't have to smog it. Only limitation is "less than 5000 miles/year". Hell I've put less than 10,000 since 2005.The Trick Flow Track Heat heads I'm using have no provision for smog. Finally got the motor put together yesterday after the machine shop screw up. I'll start taking the car apart Monday or Tuesday. I'm hoping for a 3 week turnaround?
Anyone have recommendation for frame connectors?

Replacing Intake, throttle body- questions?

Reply #59 – August 26, 2018, 09:12:17 PM

Global West but as many will tell you they are not cheap. I like them as they are round tube, full length, fully powder coated (need to grind that off to weld), and do not hang below the existing stock subframes.

http://www.globalwest.net/1980-88thunderbird.html

If you do not weld and exhaust shop can install them but I would do it with the carpet removed.