I'm selling my '88 Thunderbird Sport. I got in over my head and can't finish the engine swap (tried to go 351W). Here's the details:
1988 Thunderbird Sport 150K on the chassis Medium Red exterior Scarlet Red interior (rear seat is faded) Power windows Power driver seat Power mirrors AOD transmission Some rust behind the driver side door Damage behind the passenger side door (have replacement door, included) Crack on front fender Fading paint on hood and top Aftermarket chrome wheels
Rebuilt 351W engine from a F150 Attempted to go Carberator with this kit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cmb-03-0214 Has this Distributor kit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-combo351wr Lokar kick down bracket Ran new fuel line (soft line) Holley Blue pump, pre and post filter Interstate battery Chuck W motor mounts Monroe Variable rate springs (installed on rear, have front set) Electronic fan with temp controller New dual exhaust with H pipe New lers (Mangaflow, I think, I can check) Ford Racing valve covers
This car does not currently run. It ran 2 years ago with the EFI setup (very, very rough) and I couldn't get that sorted out, so I tried to go carb. It will need to be taken out on a trailer. I will help load it. I have more pictures and can get more, but it may take a couple days as the car isn't at my house (parents).
Asking price is $1400 or best offer. I'm not willing to part out the car yet, I would like to get rid of it outright. Location is 30 minutes west of St Louis down I-44. Contact me through email or PM.
Long time, no post. Been down at school, so I didn't get to work on the car much this last year. Came back, and now I got her running. Pulled it out of the garage tonight for a test drive and noticed a few things, one thing in particular. So I ask the almighty FTCF board for help. ( We're not worthy! )
Anytime I get on the throttle, it stumbles really bad. Doesn't matter if I ease on it or get on it harder. Doesn't do it as bad in neutral. Is a bit rough idling, but not too bad, like it need fine tuning.
Specs: 351W Truck motor E7TE heads Truck Cam Cat-less dual exhaust GT40 upper and lower 24 lb injectors 96 Cobra MAF 70 (or 72) mm TB BBK Swap headers Stock AOD C3w Computer (supposedly reprogrammed to 93 Cobra specs)
Any ideas? Fuel pressure is good. Ran for about 10 minutes last night, another 10 tonight. Don't know if the computer has learned what it needs to yet. Any thoughts will be appreciated.
Ok, I've been trying to figure this out for a while. I dropped a rebuilt (not professional) motor in the Bird, and it won't fire up. Turns over, spark fires, timing is set to 10 BDC (stock, according to my Brother's mustang manual), fuel is getting into the cylinders, pressure is good, but no bang. Only time I hear anything is when I try it a second time a couple minutes later, but only very softly.
Does every cam installed need to be degreed? Or does lining up the marks enough? I know for the high power engines, it makes a difference, but I'm talking about a stock rebuild. The valves are closed at TDC, and rotate fully.
People at my church want to start a forum, and they are looking to me for help. We have a server we can run it off of, so I think (not really a computer guy) all I'll need is the software. I haven't had much problems with this site, so I'm thinking about using this. How hard is vBulletin to work with? We do have some programmers at our disposal, but they are pretty busy.
On the same note, is there any decent forum software that is free? Cheaper is better, but if it's going to cause problems every day, we rather shell out for it. Any suggestions/comments?
New fuel pump stop priming on me. Impact switch is fine. Checked relay, I think it's good. New computer didn't solve it either. Checked repinning due to mass air conversion, and it's good except the fuel pump monitor, but I thought it was unnecessary. It primes when I ground the Fuel Pump test port, which only skips over the EEC, correct? The new computer was a reman.
Now, unless there is anything else I can check, I have a solution. I could run a wire and switch from the starter solenoid or ignition to the fuel pump or the relay. The only problem is that this would leave it on all the time while running, and I don't know if this would hurt it. I need to get the car moving and running, to see if the engine swap is good.
I'm really thinking of going carbed. Either I get a Mustang computer and spend hundreds on a chip and tuning, or try to track down the one type of 351W mass air and figure out how to swap it over. I know EFI is better, and that's why I went with it in the first place. But this car needs to move, and I'm tired of trying to figure out the voodoo.
So this is what I know I need:
Intake and Carb. Duh. Throttle Kickdown cable from Lokar. Fuel Pressure regulator to knock it down to 6 psi. Duraspark (or equivalent) ignition system (distrib, ignition box, coil)
Is there anything else I'm forgetting? I'm also getting an Adjust-a-Jet metering block to make tuning a little easier.
Ok, I'm looking into using a truck computer for my engine swap, so I don't have to get a chip, and one of the problems I see is that the truck only uses one O2 sensor. I just put in dual exhaust, so I can't put the sensor on the Y pipe. I was thinking of only running one side. I have to block off the passenger side anyway. I'm wondering if this would effect it much. The sensors ain't used for meter fuel anymore, right?
There are 4 pins for the O2 sensors: 2 sensor wires and 2 grounds. I could ground the ground wire to the chassis, and repin the other one to the right place.
It would be alright to use an F150 351 computer in my car for the swap, right? I know I'd have to go with one for a manual cause the autos were computer controlled, but I'm not sure how much else is controlled by it.
And I did research, but wouldn't mind a few more opinions.
Quote from: TurboCoupe50;265671
Depending on engine components, you'll likely need a Mass Air 5.0 EEC... Assuming a stockish 5.8, I suppose you could use a MAF truck EEC from '94-'96, but like a 5.0 MAF EEC, there will be modifications necessary to your original wiring harness...
Ok, I know the car draws around 50 mA just sitting there, right? Is that just for the radio, or for the computer too. I had a .14 Amp draw on it, and as soon as a pulled the radio (aftermarket, if that makes a difference), the draw went away.... totally. Meter reads 0. I'm thought the computer would draw some too, right?
I tried to start then engine I dropped in, and it cranks over, but I'm getting no fuel. Fuel pump is on, and there is fuel in the lines, but the injectors are not firing. I tested the leads, and I got a .26V reading with key on, and a -.6 reading while cranking. We tested my brothers Mustang, and it read 0 while on, -1 while cranking. (Wasn't sure which was positive lead or not, but I measured the same way.)
The new engine is a 351W with 24lbs injectors. I have a cobra computer (for a 5.0, but I thought it would just run lean) and a 96 cobra MAF (it calibrated for the 24, of thats what I read online.)
Does anyone think the computer is to blame, or something with the wiring?
I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with the multi program chip. I have to get my computer reprogrammed (302 fuel map on an 351W), and a friend suggested this. It would be cheaper than having someone else do it on a dyno, and the multi program feature would be sweet (have one for performance and econ). Any reviews out there?
I just (and I use that term very loosely) threw a 351W into the bird, and one of the final things hanging me up are the spark plug wires. The old ones from the 302 ain't fitting. I have 3 that are no where near the length they need to be. I thought they were the same, because Summit has kits for 302/351W. The only thing I can think of it that now that I have taller valve covers and the span distance since the block is a bit taller. Any suggestions?
I've got a 96 Cobra MAF sensor, and am wondering if It will work on. my new 351w. I got it because I went with 24lbs injectors, a 75mm TB, and I'm using a 93 GT computer reprogrammed to Cobra specs. I know the harness connector is different, and I have the right one. I'm just not sure how to wire it up, if it will work, etc...
We're not worthy!