I would suggest painting the inside and out of the PA6 Nylon if using as a funnel since it will be porous. It will also help with any UV degradation if it has any exposure.
Last post by Chuck W -
Back on this thing this week, too.
last weekend I managed to get a little time to get the valve body back into the 6R80 with the new lead frame.
Once I sort out the trans cooler and the lines, I can get the trans filled up. Looks like I'm going to use a cooler from a '05-10 car.
The other thing I needed to do was get this mounted up.
I used the ICT Billet bracket and mounted it up on the DS. Made up a quick bracket to attach it to the inner fender area and added a small support link to help keep it from cantilevering around.
I have a plan for the filler, as the stock reservoir that I got with the pump isn't really going to work. I'm going to CAD up something and print it out of PA6 Nylon. It'll be more of a fill funnel, than a reservoir, but it'll take up less room and do what I need it to do.
Speaking of 3D printing. I found an STL online for the "Starfish" center cap that didn't have the prancing pony on it, so I printed some up out of ABS. Going to clean them up and paint them silver.
I had also needed a little inspiration to kick-start me back on this project, so I stuck a control arm/strut/spindle on the car to check and see how the wheels/tires were going to clear the fenders. This car is running a modular K-member and SN-95 FCAs that I moved in 3/4" to get the proper width, Looks like my clearances will be good. (There is a spacer between the wheel and the hub that is the same thickness as a rotor).
I'm also close to connecting a fuel system. I need to replace the busted fitting at the fuel rail, but the tank and pump/etc are all assembled and I think it works as it should, but I have yet to pressurize the (returnless) system. Fitting on order for that.
Last post by Chuck W -
I've just been driving this, and have put about 250 miles on it since the rework. Haven't seen any dribbles under it and the fluid levels all look good. I do want to tweak the idle up a little bit, but that'll be an easy adjustment.
The last thing that was on my list of tasks during this round of things was to re-grease the RUCA bushings. They've had a bit of a squeak when the rear takes a bounce.
They have poly on the body end and rubber on the axle ears. I boxed them up quick when I originally redid the car. so they're kinda stiff.
Last post by bodyman -
Thanks guys. Exciting with a splash of paranoia and concern about sums it up. Going to start on the bump steer stuff this afternoon.
Last post by hast2307 -
Dang, that looks nice! Now I want a rear spoiler on my Turbo bird. It would be nice to see what you find on the bump steer. I have not lowered mine, but did the SN95 big brake upgrade and it moved the wheels outboard about 1/2 inch.
I will have to do the bump steer testing in the future. Now my SVO, I have lowered and I will need to do the bump steer soon.
Last post by bodyman -
Bit of a milestone today. Made the mile trip across town to get the initial alignment set so I can get the bump steer situation figured out. First 2 miles in 27 years.
The window I ordered from a salvage yard in Ohio also showed up today. Ended up using my original window with the DA scratches, it’s the best out of the three. If I ever run across a really nice one I’ll change it out then.
Last post by bodyman -
This truck was originally going to be a wrecker for the shop, but turned into a farm truck. I finished this build spring of 2024. Originally a 460/auto 1993 F Superduty I converted to 4 wheel drive and now has a 1997 7.3/auto drivetrain.
Last post by bodyman -
I’m fine with whatever the decision is. I will say if we are close to getting what you need money wise to do what you really want, now would be the time.
