Need engine project advice. Reply #30 – April 09, 2012, 04:26:00 PM Aerocoupe, while I'm not sure I'll get there with 24#'s, I'm using it as a starting point. It's almost nothing to swap out 36# or 42# injectors later (although it's almost a ludicrous statement to say that I'd need that much fuel). As for my target, I'm talking flywheel HP and the exhaust isn't that small. 1 5/8 headers in front of 2 1/2 duals isn't small, and I don't buy into the idea that I need solid lifters or that I can't get there below 6000 rpm. So I'll tell you what, I'll build it, take a picture, and scan my RWHP dyno sheet, and post my drivetrain loss correction calculation. #challengeaccepted Quote Selected
Need engine project advice. Reply #31 – April 09, 2012, 04:43:27 PM There is nothing wrong with having the capability of having too much fuel. There is a lot wrong with not having enough. Unless I was doing a 100% setup, I would go overkill one the sizing as well. If your buying new, the price isn't really even any different.Ihwould also run larger exhaust, but that's just me I guess. Quote Selected
Need engine project advice. Reply #32 – April 10, 2012, 11:35:16 AM Okay, now we are getting somewhere if you are talking flywheel hp. You can do that under 6,000 rpm and with a 302 motor. I am basing that statement on the one that sits in my garage that I drive on occasion. All I was saying is to get 375-395 rwhp it would be difficult with a NA 302 motor. Typically small motors don't make a ton of power naturally aspirated down low in the RPM's without a power adder. Small motors need to breath to get them in the higher RPM's to make power. This typically takes a lot of induction and a large (read 3"+) exhaust which typically means a solid roller cam. Then the issue is there is no power off idle.The only thing I would highly suggest is that you consider at least a 36 lb/hr injector. If you get the 24 lb/hr units and decide to go larger then you have to either buy a new MAF calibrated to the larger injectors or change the electronics in the MAF, or have the car dyno'd again. I would also run a 255 lph pump but a 190 lph would suffice. The beauty of the injection is that is will only burn what it needs if properly tuned and the rest of the fuel will just return to the tank.I had the 24 lb/hr units in my car and washiznitting the wall at 289 rwhp. Changed to the 42 lb/hr units (buddy had a set and was cleaning out his garage so I got them for a good deal) and the car went to 318 rwhp afer I paid $125 to get the chip reprogrammed and dyno time. It was well worth it as the idle surge was gone and it was so much smoother through the RPM's. The 24's were just maxed out and could not provide enough fuel.Anyhow, good luck with the project! Sounds like you have a solid start on it.Darren Quote Selected
Need engine project advice. Reply #33 – April 19, 2012, 11:32:47 PM Update, Cirspoogestances unforeseen have caused me to revise. I picked up a 120k 96 GT40 (non P headed) motor from an Explorer. I'll get to the other mods when I can, but I've got to keep it drive-able for now, so I'm going to swap in the HO cam from my old engine, and run it for now. It's kind of funny how a loose motor can go from 'ok for now' to scary so fast. I'm hoping to open the exhaust up in a month or so, but for now, that's all I have to work with. I had to have a motor shipped in from across the state, the guy at the yard tells me, "the 96 and 97 motors go out about as fast as they come in" and "the Mustang guys grab them up like they were free candy". Figures. Quote Selected
Need engine project advice. Reply #34 – April 20, 2012, 01:04:48 AM Quote from: Haystack;386255There isn't much differance between the tf1 and e cam. There basically copies of each other. Not really.....E-camcam lift.311 int exh .311valve lift .498 int exh .498max lift intake 110* exhaust 110*valve setting. .000 intake exhaust .000cam timing @.004 tappet liftintake opens 28* btdc closes at 74* abdc duration is 282exhaust opens 68*bbdc closes 34* atdc duration 282cam timing @.050 tappet liftintake opens at 0* btdc closes 40*abdc duration 220exhaust opens 40* bbdc closes 0* atdc duration 220TFS stage 1Valve Setting Intake: .000 in.Valve Setting Exhaust: .000 in.Advertised Duration (Degrees): 275 intake/279 exhaustDuration at .050 in. Lift (Degrees): 221 intake/225 exhaustCamshaft Lift: .312 in. intake/.319 in. exhaustValve Lift with 1.6 Rocker Arms: .499 in. intake/.510 in. exhaustLobe Separation (Degrees): 112Intake Cam Timing at .050 in. Valve Lift:Opens 3 degrees BTDCCloses 38 degrees ABDCMax lift: 108 degrees ATDCExhaust Cam Timing at .050 in. Valve Lift:Opens 49 degrees BBDCCloses 4 degrees BTDCMax lift: 116 degrees BTDCFWIW the TFS cam more closely mirrors the b cam than the e, albeit with a little more lift and a more aggresive ramp rate. The TFS has more dwell over the nose as well.The reason guys run slower as opposed with the stock cam is two fold.1. not enough gear.2. not enough converter. I assume you're going to run the AOD. I would recommend a 2600 RPM stall at the least. A 3K will do you nicely. The bigger the cooler the better. Find one from a company called Long. They make the coolers for B&M. They're cheaper too. Quote Selected
Need engine project advice. Reply #35 – April 20, 2012, 08:45:41 AM My car has a smaller cam and I'm still running 3.73 gears and a 2800 stall converter. It pulls hard out of the hole. With a 302 in a heavy car you need gear and a converter to get it up and going. Quote Selected
Need engine project advice. Reply #36 – April 20, 2012, 08:53:20 AM That's really not what I'm after. If I ever take my car to the strip, it only going to be as a means of validation. This is a street car, if I ever get it involved in any kind of racing, it will be autocross. Quote Selected
Need engine project advice. Reply #37 – April 24, 2012, 06:24:32 PM WOW, what a fight! Just finished today, Tear down on GT40 Explorer engine, swap a 90 Stock HO cam, FRPP oil pump, new oil pan, new double roller set (would you believe the GT40 motor had a regular chain?), build up and install. Whew! Then I got to pull the front cover, chase a pump shaft, put it back together, fight with a thermostat that slipped down during the build (causing a leak), then when things looked good, I had all the older techs in the shop help me track down a low vac/rich mix problem that ended up being a wrong EGR plate gasket (I used a 96 motor to keep internal EGR). All said and done; 4 days, 1100 bucks including the core (which I may not cash in) and a dump truck full of frustration. Goes like stink, though, and most importantly, keeps oil pressure at 55-60 psi all the time, AND I don't smell burnt coolant in the exhaust, OR hear any knocking or tapping! Quote Selected
Need engine project advice. Reply #38 – April 24, 2012, 06:51:07 PM geez motor torn down, built, dropped in and running in 4 days? you really fought a quick battle with that 1! Quote Selected
Need engine project advice. Reply #39 – April 24, 2012, 06:55:43 PM 4 days of lunch hours and late nights (2 hours between 5 and 7). Probably 12 or 14 hours total. Quote Selected
Need engine project advice. Reply #40 – April 25, 2012, 11:36:55 AM Good to hear it's on the road!"a dump truck of frustration" That's a great way to put it! Can't remember a project I've done without a least one dump truck full.Pretty quick work, in comparison to many on the site (me included...). Quote Selected
Need engine project advice. Reply #41 – April 25, 2012, 12:26:16 PM It helps to work in a Ford shop, with other Ford techs, who have nothing better to do than help, and also to have a parts account. I'm pretty fortunate that way. Now I've got the same high idle problem as the guy in that other thread. Quote Selected
Need engine project advice. Reply #42 – April 25, 2012, 12:38:25 PM Dang you were booking it for a 4 day swap and doing all the work to the motor.*golf clap*Now go get a beer. Quote Selected
Need engine project advice. Reply #43 – April 25, 2012, 12:51:46 PM Lets see, the engine showed up Thursday, I stripped it to the long block and pulled the cam, Friday I pulled out my HO and stripped it down to the long block and pulled it's cam (which was wiped at the journals). Lucky for me I know a guy that had a 90 HO cam and who just gave it to me, Saturday I worked the whole day, about 8 hours, to install the cam and assemble the motor and get it in the car, and I spent 4 or 5 hours Monday relocating the ACT to the airbox and trouble shooting no oil pressure (pump shaft had fallen out while I was building it up, which was a careless mistake) and rough running, which happened to be a too small EGR plate gasket not sealing EGR out of the engine. I won my first street light drag with it last night against a turbo eclipse, so I'm pretty happy. Next: Exhaust, heads to bumper. This stock exhaust business is killing me, well not completely stock, but all stock parts as I have a Mark VII H-pipe. Also, I think I'm going to mod the Explorer TB to run in place of the HO one. By comparison it's huge. Quote Selected
Need engine project advice. Reply #44 – April 26, 2012, 01:44:09 PM The Explorer TB is 65mm the HO one is 60mm. I'd run it :). Quote Selected
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