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Topics - Cougar5.0

31
Suspension/Steering / Front end clunk
My entire front end is new. Rack, tie-rods, control arms (including ball-joints), rotors, brakes, springs, isolators etc. The only thing that's not new that moves are the struts & spindles. At about 3/4 turn to the left, I get a clunk in the front-end. I've removed the wheel and brakes and there was no issue. Bearings are tight. Tie rods are new and I can't feel any play in them. I can't make it do the clunk with the weight off the front and while kicking, prying, shaking etc. wheel while it's off the ground to find the clunk. I retightened the rack mounts (that also have new rubber), but I just can't figure out where the clunk is coming from. What am I missing?
34
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars FOR SALE / Polished, extrude honed & hand ported stock HO lower **SOLD**
I was using this with my KB but switched to a Systemax 1 lower, so I figured I'd put it up here first to see if anybody here is interested in it. Based on TMoss site I'd guess this flows ~170-200 CFM. I spent the most time on the runners with the dog-legs and used finger calipers to get the short-turns as open as possible. The runners were also extrude honed so the areas that could not be reached with a cutter have been smoothed and opened a bit. The polishing is nice too as you can see in the picture below. I think this lower has had more $$ put into it than any other stock lower ever! I'm asking $100 for it based on the polishing and porting.

**SOLD**
35
Electrical Tech / Cruise Control Adjustments
I've had this issue since upgrading the engine with larger TB & lots of low-end grunt with good heads & the KB. When I use the cruise control, especially at lower speeds (55-60 MPH), the cruise control cycles the throttle too rapidly and jerks the car around - to the point that it is very annoying.

I have never looked at the system but I know some here are familiar with these things. Is there any way to adjust the control unit so that the amount of error in speed can be slowed down or perhaps the rate at which the throttle is engaged can be slowed?
36
Lounge / 4-eyed Cougar (2nd gen)
OK, I know we aren't a "classic" Cougar site, but this ad my girlfriend sent me caught my attention. This thing is clean and comes with a 351C which brings back memories of my '71 'Stang. I like how you can see some of the styling cues that survived to our 5th gen models. Check out the picures at the link.

http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/655160603.html

37
Lounge / China makes it nearly impossible for my company to purchase parts from the USA
This is the stupidest thing I've ever been involved with. Every single time we are starting manufacuring of a new product I've designed, 2 mind-bendingly stupid things will happen:

1) I will have to send them some sample pieces (that are ALWAYS manufactured in China) as they seem incapable of getting them directly from their own companies, but US distributors always have stock. :mad: :flip:

2) After a month or so, the useless morons still can't seem to obtain stock for a critical pilot run and they will inevitably call me up and ask me to order more parts for them & then ship them over to them.

I finally got fed up with the bullshiznit and decided to ignore the most recent request from the Project Manager dolt in China. The ****-nut calls me up late at night and asks me if I can buy "100 pcs" (of a $1 part). I told him that I can't understand why they are incapable of clicking the link I sent them and ordering over the internet just like I did (the distributor has every country on the planet as a "ship-to" in their dropdown.) He said the rules regarding money transfers involving the US dollar are extremely complicated and they are basically "afraid" to attempt to purchase anything in US dollars!!!!!!! The Chinese government has basically forbidden them from purchasing ANYTHING for their products from the US!! These are the same ass-holes who are more than willing to take our manufacturing, software and engineering jobs, put people in jail for writing something like this post and who kill monks in a country they stole who are sick of their dictatorial bullshiznit & want their country back. We're fools for putting up with this utter bullshiznit.

I hate China more and more every day. :mad:
38
Lounge / Hubcap opinions
Which hubcap looks better with my new wheels?

Little dome (it's chrome so it's hard to see):


This is the hubcap that came with the wheels - it's low-profile and doesn't stick out like the little domecap:
39
Suspension/Steering / My 5-Lug plans (um, back to 4-lug!)
I photoshopped the below wheels on my car and I like the way they look (ARE Rebel):



So I went to order them from Summit - they only had 3. Worst part? They are discontinued in 4-lug and I can't find a 4th anywhere :mad:

This was the only 4-lug wheel I liked. It appears that I need to go to 5-lug for choices.

Looks like the consensus to convert to 5-lug is:

Front: OEM: MKVII/'84-'86 SVO rotors. Performance: Powerslot 8118 or plug, drill & restud my almost new slotted & dimpled rotors

Rear: Drill & restud 31 spline axles, redrill rotors.

Moser will do all the mods. Does this plan seem reasonable? Does anyone offer TC rotors that can be drilled for 5-lug when ordering?
40
General Fox T-Bird/Cougar Discussion / Cup Holder!
Hey look, I posted an exclamation point instead of a question mark. That's because I am posting a potential solution instead of a question :hick:

I had been using a Euro Junior adjustable cup holder that velcro'd to the console. Worked good for years but it rattled something fierce and drove me insane. Also, adjusting it was a pain in the arse.

I was in Target and saw one of those cup-holders that is supposed to hang on the door - I figured I'd put it under the armrest as a second cup-holder. After using it once, I realized it was a pain not having a place to rest my el-bone :D . I then realized that if I slid the groove in the UPR aluminum lighter delete http://www.uprproducts.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=707 over the slot in the cup holder, I could hold the cup-holder in place:



Nice thing about this arrangement, it's easy to remove the cup holder, ligher delete and go back to stock look (like when I'm at the track and need easy access to the line-lock switch.)
41
Suspension/Steering / Mach 1 springs in the rear - pics!
OK, I finally got around to replacing the stock rear springs with Mach 1 rear springs. With the CHE adjustable arms adjusted all the way down, the rear sat about 28.25" from ground to bottom of fender lip. With the front lowered & sitting just over 26" ground to fender lip, the rake was too much and looked a bit silly. Using some quick calcs I did in my head, I installed the Mach 1 rear springs and raised the CHE pedestals 1 1/4".



The springs are quite a bit different in height - the Mach1 are about 3" shorter!



So here is the new spring installed:



When I finished, I lowered the car and found a level parking lot so I could take pictures - not an easy task finding a level spot anywhere in NH! :hick: The rear is now 27" from ground to fender well lip. There was no change at all in the front.

Passengers side:


Drivers side (still 3/8" shorter on drivers side front - battery?):


The car rides great and the rear is much firmer without feeling the slightest bit harsh - I really like the overall drivability improvement with the Mach 1 springs on all 4 corners.

Here is a bit of backward calculation that I did to try to estimate the spring rate of the stock springs. I'm sure if I screwed up, some of the smart suspension folks will point it out to me in a heartbeat - lol :D



The second row is the estimated rate for the stock springs - looks like they may indeed be 200 lb/in as was used in previous years?
42
Suspension/Steering / Rear disc brakes clicking
I searched on this and I think it may be something to do with those thin pieces that wedge between the pad and the caliper, but I have one per side and that was all I could get in there it was so tight.

The problem is when I am taking a turn (even a slight turn will start it), the rear disc brakes click click click until I hit the brakes, at which point the sound stops. It started up after I banged out the old studs and drew in new long studs for the Weld wheels. I simply removed and reinstalled the calipers when doing this, but something must have changed when I did this. The brakes work smoothly once they are engaged, so I don't think it's related to any sort of run-out issue I may have created when doing the studs.

Any ideas on what to look for before I go in there and start inspecting?
43
Lounge / Issue with Accel ignition & customer service
I got a weird issue. I got the accessory box (375+) for my Accel ignition (300+) so I could incorporate a two-step for better launches at the track. I hook it up and next thing you know the car is running like it has 20 degrees timing pulled. I called tech support. No help - they tell me I'll have to send it back. I tell him that's not a reasonable option as I want to race it Friday. He gives me the number of the real techs in another location.

The tech dude eventually tells me that there is a "software" issue and that I'd have to send both modules to him so he can "get them talking to each other". I told him there was only 5 weeks left in the racing season and that under no cirspoogestances am I leaving my car without an ignition due to their "firmware" issue. He tells me the older 300+ won't talk to the newer 375+ and the only way to fix it is to send them both back. This irritates me as he is telling me that they are competely incompetent (don't even keep firmware consistent between modules designed specifically to work as a pair) and that I will have to be severely inconvienienced as a result. I basically pleaded with him to do something like send me another 300+ module that will work with the newer 375+. He just says no and proceeds to give me the return address. I told him that under no cirspoogestances was he going to mess up the end of racing season for me (I am not about to trust them to get the modules back in a reasonable amount of time based on the numerous nightmare stories I have read about turn around times for repairs). He wouldn't even make any promise to have the units back before 5 weeks either, which in itself is kinda bizarre.

I then called the original tech help people back as they are in an office that could authorize sending me a replacement unit while I return the old module. The kid was sympathetic and offered to let me speak to his supervisor - he said she always returns call so I should leave a message. I left a long descriptive message with her, but she had 3 hours to return my call - but didn't. I will call back tomorrow every hour until I speak with her as I have her direct line.

I am so far baffled at their inability to offer me a reasonable solution to my situation. Am I asking for too much by asking for a working replacement - seeing as they have admitted that the flaw is 100% their fault?
44
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars FOR SALE / Lincoln Motorsports 2 gauge A-Pillar
Hi,

You may have read a post where I have switched over to a 3 gauge pod (custom cut from a SN95 pillar - lol). Anyway, I do not need the old setup anymore so I am going to sell it here.

I am selling it with the extension piece needed for a Fox Coug/Bird. Those two holes are for LED mounts I used for the shift light. You will have to drill small holes for new mounting screws.




It's not perfect, but it looks decent mounted:


$50 + shipping or best offer.
45
Suspension/Steering / Struts for my new Mach 1 600# springs (street/strip)
OK, I found a set of Mach 1 springs and I will need to get a set of proper damping struts to go with them once I cut them to the height I want (depending where they sit as installed). I am somewhat conflicted as I want to be able to loosen the strut for drag-racing, yet have enough adjutment for normal daily driving to work (no city driving). Clearly the stock struts will not be able to handle the new rate springs, though I'm sure they would be fine for drag racing. I was dead-hooking with the suspension the way it was before I changed to the "D" control arms - I am hoping I won't screw things up too much :flame:

Anyway, some of the adjustable struts I've been looking at are:

Strange 10-way adjustable
Koni Sport
Tokico 5-way adj.

in that order. Anybody with experience in this area is welcome to offer an opinion here :D